PROJECT IPFIPF - BACKUP Light
Backup Light By day a stock backup light might provide a warning to someone that
you're backing out. Other than that we typically back by Braille. Then there is the "peep" and "creep" method of backing your Jeep. The level of challenge significantly increases if you add rain to the mixture. The challenge is further doubled with tinted windows. Backing my first FSJ up at night in Seattle I crushed the backend of a Honda. I had backed up cautiously, slowly, using my mirrors and stock backup lights. There was no damage to my Jeep. The Honda, however, looked like it had backed into a pole at about 15 mph. The owner of the Honda was so happy that I left a note that he took care of the repairs at no cost to me. (Proof that honesty is still the best policy, unfortunately it doesn't always get you off without having to pay.) After that crushing experience, I began figuring out ways of making the process of backing at night less hazardous to my fellow motorists. I tried a variety of lights. The biggest problem I had was not in acquiring a light or mounting it, but wiring it up. I drove one of my Jeeps for almost two years with a light mounted in an excellent position, but didn't have the time to wire it up. As a way of avoiding the time consuming art of wiring, I tried those halogen bulbs that you can put in the stock housing. They help about as much as someone holding a flashlight out the passenger window. The problem isn't with the bulb as much as the light fixture itself. It's not designed to distribute light where it's needed. It's as though they are only there to provide a notice to the next victim that they're about to be run over. Then I tried attaching a spare fog lamp (actually it was a survivor from another story involving a new OME lift kit and a creek...) to my backup lights in the rear. This shortcut worked for about a month or so. Then it pitted the stock switch so badly that it only works occasionally. The additional current requirements overloaded the contacts. After several other custom installs with varying success, I ran across the IPF Model 816 Backup Lamp Kit. It included everything I needed to set it up and make it light out back. The kit comes with a black cased halogen lamp that's about 4-1/2" high, 6-1/4" wide and about 3" deep. The snap together wiring is designed to be passed through firewalls and tight places. It includes a high quality relay that mounts under the hood, close to the battery for the best power transfer. The three-way switch is a high quality SPDT (single pole, double throw, center off with a ground to light the LED) with a built in green indicator in the end of the machined aluminum shaft. The switch provides three modes, on manually, off, and on with the stock backup lights. One of the problems with the little wagoneer was induced by the aforementioned backup light attempt. I had installed a halogen fog lamp in the rear tied in directly to the stock wiring. This load apparently pitted the factory switch and since then the stock backup lights do not always come on. With the switch I'm able to "override" the factory switch when backing when the switch doesn't work. Having the manual mode is extremely helpful when stopping to help other motorists, or when on the trail at night. With the ability to be turned on manually you don't have to leave your rig in reverse to have lights.
The install process was one of the easiest I've ever done. True to my hectic schedule, I installed the light and then threw the tools and kit in the back of the Jeep and drove around with it for over two weeks. Finally, I set aside some time to do the wiring. But before I did that I decided that I didn't like having the light down low. I had initially installed it on a bracket attached to a stock hole on the bottom of the bumper, protected by the trailer hitch. This is an acceptable location, but one that leaves it subject to damage in parking lots, on the trail and of course in a rear end collision. I decided to move it up onto the rear spoiler. If your Jeep doesn't have a rear spoiler than the rear bumper install is acceptable. On one XJ I had damaged my bumper while wheeling and decided to install a backup light inside the bumper. This is an alternative location for the IPF light. Simply drill a pilot hole and then use a Sawzall or Jig Saw to cut out the opening and mount it on the inside of the bumper. On the XJ that I did that I also placed a light up on the rear spoiler.
Having two of these lights on the rear is highly recommended for wheeling in rainy climates. Even for normal driving it was extremely useful. Having one high and one low will prevent shadows from obscuring obstacles that might snag you. Getting snagged at night on the trail is not a desireable event. The actual process of installing the wiring harness took less than an hour. That included fixing my trailer light wiring. To install the wiring I removed the spare tire and access panel. It would be possible to run the wiring underneath the rig and only enter the rear of the vehicle to tap into the stock backup lights. I recommend running the wiring through the left side of the vehicle as it protects it from trail damage and allows cleaner access to the backup wiring for tie in. The instructions were clear and simple. The only "shortcoming" came in the lengths of the wiring. The wire to tap into the existing backup lamp was longer than needed, while the wire running from the relay to the actual lamp wasn't quite long enough for where I mounted the relay and the lamp. Since it was only a couple feet too short it might not have been a problem had I mounted the relay further from the battery or the light at a lower position in the rear. Other than that the instructions were crystal clear and illustrated in a manner that made the install go very smoothly. ADD (Attention Deficit Disorder) can turn poorly written instructions into a major obstacle. The illustrations provided on the instruction sheet basically told me everything I needed to know. There is a pictorial diagram clearly identifying connectors, wires and components. In preparation for installation I actually laid the components on the diagram and organized the wiring harness with ease. The installation instructions alone are worth the suggested retail price! The quality of the product is indicated by the pictorial diagram, complete with wire colors and an accurate representation of the system. To me this reflects a well engineered and well documented product.
Here is the text from the Installation Instructions:
It doesn't take long before you realize that these instructions were written by someone whose native tongue is not English. The second clue that you have is that there are funny symbols on the packaging. I examined the packaging and it does not come out and say it in English, but my guess is that these high quality lights are imported from Japan. When I did the installation I did not disconnect my battery as specified. I hate disconnecting my battery and then reprogramming the digital radio and the digital clock. If you are comfortable with electricity you could skip that step and prevent problems by NOT connecting power to the relay until all the other wiring is in place and secured. Connecting the power with the inline fuse in place should prevent any problems. Remember that manufacturers almost always recommend disconnecting the battery, even if you're changing a tire it seems. If you follow the instructions letter for letter you will not have problems and is the recommended way to do this installation. I did it live, but then again I've wired live 220 Volt circuits before because I couldn't find the fuse panel in the old German barracks. The one-hand in the pocket rule doesn't really apply to 12 Volt circuits, but taking care not to touch wrenches or screwdrivers to metal while working with power is a close second. The wiring loom was designed to pass through the firewall without having to create an opening the size of a tailpipe. I used the existing opening for the throttle cable. I used one of those cable claw type retrieval tools to get the wire through the firewall. I pushed the tool through from the inside. Then I inserted the wire into the claw and taped it to the end. Then carefully drew it through the grommet. This step goes a lot easier if you have an assistant, or really long arms. I found that the wiring that controlled the relay was longer than needed, so I cut and spliced. I used the same accessory connection on the fuse panel as the radio to provide power to the switch. I've already wired a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) switch into my Jeep so I could play the radio with the ignition key out. This allows my passengers the option of listening to the radio without the keys left in the ignition. While car-jacking isn't a sport in this area, it does make it less likely that my teenagers or wife would decide to leave without me. By using this same connection I am able to provide power to operate the backup light without the keys in the ignition. This way I can stand outside my Jeep while on the trail or helping a stranded motorist without inviting theft, or worse, locking myself out of my vehicle. While the wiring for the relay control was too long, the wire that went from the relay output to the actual lamp was just a little bit too short. A simple splice in of a section of wire fixed the problem. I ran all the wiring underneath the kick panels along the driver's side of the Jeep. The only panel that I actually removed was the one in the back underneath the spare tire.
The kit provided a nice snap in splice connector to attach to the factory backup lights. This wire was way longer than what I needed, and if memory serves me correctly, it provided the section of wire needed to extend the other wire. Again, the length of the wire might have been fine had I mounted the relay on the driver's side of the firewall under the hood rather than on the passenger side, and had I mounted the light on the rear bumper, instead of on top of my rear spoiler. The kit isn't specified for an XJ, so these differences might not have been a problem on a Toyota, or on a bobtail Jeep. It's impossible to accommodate every vehicle that might use this kit. Based on that I have to say that this kit was outstanding. Once all the wiring was run the length of the vehicle, the connections made to the fuse block under the dash, the switch mounted on a bracket under the dash and the connections made to the battery, I fired up the little wagoneer and put it into reverse. I looked down at the aluminum shaft and the end of it glowed green from the internal LED. I flipped the switch down to the center position, the LED went off. I lowered the switch further and the LED lit up again. Since it was already dark outside by the time I put fire in the hole, it was quite obvious that 55 Watts of fresh halogen were doing there job out back.
Invariably it seems that there is always something that I forget or install incorrectly. Reading instructions usually confuses me. But this time everything went perfectly. The three way switch is extremely useful because it provides me an indication whether or not the lights are on during the day when backing up. And when the stock switch decides it doesn't want to work, I have the ability to override it manually. There is another benefit to having a switch that allows you to manually operate the lamp, you can flip it on to see what just fell off your Jeep as you're going down the road. This is the ultimate kit, simple, powerful and reasonably priced. The quality of the relay is first rate. I have not been able to find this quality of relays through normal retail channels. The same goes for the 3-way SPDT Center off lighted switch. The suggested retail price of $69 (Fall 1998) is quite reasonable for what is included. The Backup Lamp provides a well distributed light pattern that is bright enough for me to use through the heavily tinted rear windows of my XJ wagoneer limited. Picking my son up at a friends house the other night pointed out how useful this system is. Previous attempts at backing out of the long, dark, narrow driveway at night in the rain often had me thankful that I was in a 4x4. With the lamp in place it was a painless operation. If you live where it gets dark at night, this kit is for you.
The "little wagoneer", an '88 Wagoneer Limited, was also used to evaluate the Old Man Emu
lift kit, also imported by ARB USA. That review may be found at: |
