• Level One is the cheapest, if you are strapped for cash and just
  need to get the belt done there is no shame in doing just the belt,
  people have rolled the dice and held off on doing the belt and then
  later regretted it. Even a full Level Three service is cheaper than a
  broken or slipped belt.
  
  
• Level Two is a reasonable service for 100k, if you do a level
  Two service at 100k I would recommend a Level Three service at 200k.
  The level two service I leave up to the customer to decide, generally I
  recommend a level Two service at the minimum if you are paying someone
  to do the service. If you are doing it yourself and have the ability to
  dig back into the Jeep anytime in the future you may wish to save
  yourself a little money and not do the water pump at this point, but
  instead do the water pump at 200k. Just note that the water pump
  replacement(Level Three) is about an hours more worth of work than just
  the timing belt(Level Two).
  
  
• Level Three is probably the "best" in terms of a full
  service, but will also cost the most. If you are paying someone to do
  the job I would recommend spending the extra $200 online for an OEM
  water pump. You will pay more in labor for the whole job than you will
  for the OEM water pump, if your coolant has never been changed, or is
  questionable, its somewhat more likely that you will have water pump
  trouble. Of course this is not always the case, I had a customer that
  had taken meticulous care of his CRD, regular coolant changes, not
  abused, etc, he decided not to do the water pump at the time we did his
  belt. About 5k miles after the belt change his water pump started
  leaking. The same week his water pump started leaking another owner
  reported that his brand new Crown brand water pump which had just been
  installed also started leaking. Therefor based off of those two cases I
  think the best option is to replace the pump with a new OEM unit ordered
  online ~$200. I would like to note that on my personal vehicle and
  several others I have not replaced the water pump and they are just
  fine, point being, it can be hit or miss, but the best case is probably
  to replace the pump with an OEM unit. Generally I leave this decision up
  to the customer, but discuss the merits of each approach with them.
  
  

Now that being said here is the nitty gritty, the stuff you need to know
to get it done, the above steps make it seem pretty easy, but its not,
and the devil is in the details, its the little tips and tricks that
make it easy or hard. Skip down a little bit if your already torn
down to the point of the timing belt, the first part of this document
deals with how to get the front end apart so you can get to the timing
belt.

(Note: pictures for this section are not yet complete)
1. Remove Grill:
The grill comes off very easy, along the top of the grill there are
plastic clips that hold it to the header panel, pull up and then forward
on them and you will see it start to come off. Work your way along the
grill until all of them and off and it will just pull out.

2. Remove bumper.
With the grill off you will see two 10mm bolts, one on each side by the
turn signal. Remove them. Go underneath and look for two 10mm bolts
pointed vertically that attach to the lower radiator support, remove
them. There is a plastic push retainer that holds the front bumper to
the plastic splash shield on the right and left splash shields, remove
it from below. In each fenderwell there are two plastic reusable rivets
that hold the splash shield to the bumper cover. Pull out on the center
post then you can pull the whole fastener out, save all these parts for
reuse. There is a plastic tab that goes from the fender flare to the
bumper cover, you will just have to play with this to get it to come out
while you remove the bumper cover. With the bumper cover dropped down
there will be two wiring plugs to disconnect for the light attached to
the body. Slide the red tab back and then push down on the retainer, the
plug will then pull apart. Set bumper assembly aside.

3. Remove header panel.
There will be three 10 mm bolts on either side of the radiator support
by the fender, remove all of these. Remove the plastic fasteners holding
the plastic air shields to the header panel. The header panel will now
come forward, complete with lights attached. By the drivers side fender
you will see the headlight harness plug, slide the red tab over and then
squeeze the plastic clip, it will then pull apart. Set complete header
panels aside.

4. Remove upper radiator support.
In step 3 you removed 4 of the bolts that hold the upper radiator
support in place, remove the last two 10mm bolts located on the bumper
support in the center just in front of the electric fan. Pull the
radiator support off paying attention to the washer bottle cap sliding
off of the fill neck. Let the radiator support dangle out of the way
down by the drivers front tire.

5. Remove electric cooling fan.
Here you can see the two bolts holding the electric cooling fan to the
intercooler on the drivers side. Remove them. Remove the two upper bolts
also circled.

Here you can see the single bolt on the passenger side, remove it and
the slide the fan upward. Disconnect the electric plug, slide the red
tab over and squeeze the retainer, pull apart. Set the fan aside. Remove
the two upper bolts also circled.

6. Remove all bolts holding the AC condenser to the intercooler
If you have not removed all of the circled bolts in the step above do so
now. Remove the upper fan shroud bolts, 1 10mm on each side.


There are two bolts that hold the IC to the radiator on the top, here
you can see one of them on the far left of the image. There is another
on the drivers side in the analogous location, remove them.

7. Remove fan shroud:
Pull the ac condenser up and then forward, then pull the radiator
forward, if you have not done so yet remove the upper radiator hose.
With the radiator/IC/condenser pulled forward carefully pull the fan
shroud out. It's tight but it can be done.




8. Remove intercooler
The intercooler will slide up and then come up. It will take some work
to clear both the radiator and condenser, I often end up rotating the AC
condenser counter clockwise pivoting at about the inlet until it is
nearly upside down, and then pulling the inlet tube out, you can figure
out what works for you. Be careful that the metal square nuts don't fall
out of the intercooler or radiator while removing.

9. Remove radiator
Put a bucket under the drain cock and then open it, go get lunch or a
snack while you let it drain. Remove lower radiator hose, pull the
radiator out.

10. Remove fan clutch.
This is the fun part, but now with all this stuff out of the way its not
too hard. To remove it you will need a large cresent wrench, or the
correct size wrench(I think it might be 36mm but don't quote me on
that). Take a 13mm shallow socket(6 point preferable) and place in on
one of the bolts that holds the fan idler to the block. This photo
illustrates where you want to place the socket:


With one finger hold the socket in place, and with your other hand
operate the wrench to get the fan nut off, it may be very tight. The
point of the socket is to keep the pulley from spinning.





11. Remove Serpentine belt, fan idler, crank pulley,
PS pump pulley, and serpentine belt tensioner.
First take the tension off of the belt, I use a 15mm wrench to apply
leverage and remove the tension, then with the tension off I slip the
belt off of the idler below the alternator, then I pull the belt off at
the alternator, then I can release tension, remove the belt and set the
belt aside.



Remove both serpentine belt idlers, CAUTION! they
are both reverse thread, turn Clockwise to loosen! Set aside. Remove the
fan idler, you will need to use the access hole to get to the bolt you
put the socket on in the above step, set the fan idler aside. Remove the
PS pulley(3x10mm bolts). Remove the serpentine belt tensioner, set
aside. Remove the crank pulley(4x10mm bolts), set side(crank nut does
not need to come off). With all this removed we can proceed to the
timing belt job.

1. Remove front cover.
2. Install cam lock pins/crank lock pin/cam locking tool.
3. Add alignment marks on the crank, injection pump, and cam gears for
safeties sake and to insure the CP3 injection pump stays timed
correctly.
4. Loosen TB belt pulley tensioner bolt.
5. Use tensioner tool to back the tension off of the belt.
6. Remove Belt.

7: skip if not doing water pump
7a. Remove cam gears
CAUTION: Only do this with cam locking pins
installed and gear holder in place. The torque required for the cam gear
bolts can break the locking pins!)
7b. Remove rear cover.
7c. Remove viscous heater.
7d. Remove water pump front half.
7e. Install water pump front half.
7f. Install viscous heater.
7g. Install rear cover.
7h. Install cam gears
CAUTION: Only do this with the cam locking pins
installed and gear holder in place. The torque required for the cam gear
bolts can break the locking pins!

8. Install new belt.
9. Tension belt and lock tensioner.


1. Remove front cover.
17x7mm hold the front cover on. Remove them and then the cover will just pull off. Set aside.


2. Install cam lock pins/crank lock pin/cam locking tool.
NOTE: If you are not doing the water pump the cam gear holder
tool is sufficient to hold the gears in place, and the cam pins are
really not needed in that case.
The cam lock pins are labeled with an "I" and an "E" for intake and
exhaust respectively. They install at 90° aTDC, but they can also
install at 270° aTDC. To install the intake pin you will need to remove
the alternator. To install the exhaust locking pin it is helpful to
remove the 10mm bolt holding a water hose in place to gain clearance.
The plugs that need to be removed to install the locking pins are a 6mm
hex. The crank locking pin installs into a small hole on the block above
the oil filter. Generally the hole is dirty and rusty so the factory
tool does not like to thread in. I recommend just using a similarly
sized drill bit on the block/flywheel hole. Start by removing the plug
for the intake, use something like a smaller screw driver to feel for
the cam locking pin hole while you turn the crank, when you feel the
hole try installing the locking pin, turn the crank back and forth until
the locking pin installs easily. Then check and see with the drill bit
if it can be inserted into the flywheel, if it bottoms out very shortly
you are probably 180* degrees off(IE you are at 270° aTDC and need to
be at 90° aTDC), remove the pin, turn 180 degrees and repeat. Once you
get the flywheel pin/drill bit through install the other locking pins
fully and put the gear locking tool in place.

This is the Intake cam locking tool: (Miller 1052)


This is the Exhaust cam locking tool: (Miller 1052)



This is the crank locking tool: (Miller 1089)


This is the cam gear locking tool: (Miller 1085)


In the center of this image is where the 6mm plug is that needs to be removed to install the intake locking pin:

This is where the exhaust cam locking pin tool needs to be installed:

Here you can see the intake tool installed(and the rear cover off, but don't pull that cover yet!)

This is where the flywheel locking pin tool should be installed:



3. Add alignment marks
You should add alignment marks on the crank pulley, cam pulleys, and
injection pump. No need to mark the water pump, it isn't timed at all.
Cam gear alignment marks:

Injection pump, and crank alignment marks:

I generally put several marks on the crank, including the teeth, as safeties.


4. Loosen TB belt pulley tensioner bolt.
With everything marked, with the locking pins in place, and the cam gear
tool in place, loosen the 10mm bolt on the timing belt tensioner, then
use the tensioner tool to back the tension off the belt. If you were not
at 90° aTDC then the crank might turn a little, don't worry, this is
why you marked it. Just make sure your marks line up when you get the
belt on. After loosening the tensioner, slide the belt off, remove the
tensioner.
Tensioner:

This is the tool for adjusting the TB tensioner: (miller 9660)


7a. Remove cam gears
With all the pins in place and the cam gear locking tool in place(make
sure the knobs are screwed in tight) remove the bolts that hold the cam
gears on, 17mm. With the bolts removed the cam gears will just pull off.
Set aside.

CAUTION: Only do this with cam locking pins
installed and gear holder in place. The torque required for the cam gear
bolts can break the locking pins!)

7b. Remove rear cover.
Removing the timing belt idlers, CAUTION: the
timing belt idlers have reverse threads! Turn them clockwise to loosen.
The rear cover has 6 small bolts and 3 larger ones noted in these two
pictures(one is located behind the cover and also holds down a water
pipe).



7c. Remove viscous heater.
Two bolts, a couple of heater hoses, and an electric plug. No photo yet.

7d. Remove water pump front half.
5 bolts, be mindful that there are different length bolts, but its obvious where they goto and come from.
Water pump front half removed(not old o-ring still in place, remove and then clean surface):


Go ahead and remove the new front half. Make sure the oring is properly
seated in the groove on the new front half. Make sure the old water pump
oring is removed from the rear half.

New top, old bottom:


7e. Install water pump front half.
New pump with oring installed(make sure the new Oring is properly
seated, and then lightly lube it with grease, make sure the old seating
surface is clean)

New front on old rear:
(Much much less work this way than trying to use the new rear)


7f. Install viscous heater.
7g. Install rear cover.
7h. Install cam gears
CAUTION: Only do this with the cam locking pins
installed and gear holder in place. The torque required for the cam gear
bolts can break the locking pins!

8. Install new belt.
Reinstall idlers, reinstall belt tensioner(but don't tighten it yet.)
For the Belt generally I start at the cam gears, and then work my way
around down past the IP and then down to the crank. Make sure that there
is not any slack between the two cam gears, if you can move the belt up
and down any it means you have an extra tooth between the two gears.
Install the belt so there is no slack between the gears. It is often
best to start at the top and slide the belt onto the gears keeping it
tight, don't try and get it over one gear first and then the second gear
next. Slide it over both at the same time. After this is done and to
keep the belt from popping off I generally use something as a wedge to
keep the belt from popping off of the cam gears. Screwdrivers are fine,
just don't shove in a huge one and damage the belt. The nozzle from an
RTV tube worked very nicely, I'm sure you have something around you can
use.
The Belt should be tight like this between the gears, if there is any play it has an extra tooth between the gears:



Now quite often you will get into a case where you have something that looks like this:



What happens is that you do not have enough slack to slide over the
tensioner, and you have too much slack between the crank and the
injection pump, yet you cannot get the belt to catch a tooth further
over than it has on the crank. What you want to do is turn the crank
CCW, and then get the belt to catch onto a tooth on the crank, then hold
the belt onto the crank, and turn it back CW. If you do it right you
will have a tight belt between the injection pump and the crank, and
then barely enough slack to get the belt over the tensioner, make sure
your crank timing marks still lineup. if you are off by a tooth it will
be obvious, repeat the procedure until you have no slack between the IP
and the crank, and your crank is correctly aligned.
Check out this video on youtube to see what I mean:
VIDEO LINK HERE

9. Tension belt and lock tensioner.
Use the tensioner tool to tension the belt where the tensioner mark
aligns, then screw in the 10mm bolt tight. Double check that all the
timing marks lineup, remove all locking pins, cam gear holder, and then
turn it over by hand. Verify that all the marks still lineup after a
couple of rotations. If they do, do a test startup. If everything sounds
good put it back together.




This is the serpentine belt routing in case you're like me and forgot the instant you took it off:

Lets take a look at a used Timing Belt with 111k on it:
Surface wear:



Underside looks better, but still is covered by the fine red dust that comes off the belt as is bends and flexes.


This is the new belt in comparison to the old, much less wear and it looks much better.



Pressure testing the intercooler:
With one hand over the outlet and my mouth firmly sealed to the inlet(No
Jokes Please) I blew hard and could feel and hear some leakage, after
making sure my mouth and hand seals where good I uses the old soap suds
trick to find a location that was leaking.


So we got a little JB weld, mixed it up, and made it flow into the area
in question(the top most tube on the inlet/hot side of the intercooler).






Problem solved! No more leaks from that location. During tear down there
was a good buildup of oil on the IC near the leak, most likely oil from
the intake pathway being blow out the small leak(right by the inlet)
and covering the IC with a nasty oil buildup. If you see the same thing
happening then you may be having a small IC leak like I was.


Do not loose these:


There are a bunch of these located all in the radiator and the IC. They
are small threaded inserts that simply slide in to a plastic holder on
the radiator or IC and let other things like the fan shroud and AC
condenser bolt to them. I lost several and had to find some nuts that
would work. I didn't even realize these could come out until I went to
reassemble everything and found out I was missing them!

Example of one not missing:


And one thats missing:


This was something I noted upon reinstall of every, the AC line had been
hitting the upper radiator support, I bent the lip of the radiator
support a bit and also bent the line down a bit, lots of clearance now!



This is the turbo inlet hose. When I was putting everything back
together I found out that the lower part where it clamps to the turbo
inlet had degraded and ripped apart. I suspect it had been this way a
while and only now I had discovered it. It appears that this will be a
100% failure item on most CRDs, mine has been running the EHM and ORM
for the past 60-70k miles(since about 40k-50k on the odometer) and I
still had this failure. The stock CCV system will increase this failure
rate, yet another reason to run the EHM and ORM.




The Part number for the new part is 53013104AE - Hose, Clean Air: