From owner-xj-digest-at-digest.net Thu Feb 1 23:26:52 2001 From: xj-digest xj-digest Thursday, February 1 2001 Volume 01 : Number 1071 Forum for Discussion of XJ cherokees and wagoneers Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: xj: Rear Full Float conversions? xj: RE: D30 shift fork xj: Re: Adding a Leaf ok? xj: administrivia: notes on using this list xj: s/w question - kinda off topic... Re: xj: bad lifter! xj: steering box xj: axle question - turn knuckles ?? Re: xj: steering box Re: xj: steering box Re: xj: axle question - turn knuckles ?? Re: xj: axle question - turn knuckles ?? XJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeep/xj/ Send submissions to xj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to xj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to xj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 16:00:01 -0800 (PST) From: "Paul W." Subject: Re: xj: Rear Full Float conversions? Jeff wrote: > Thanks for the inf. Paul. I am surprised to learn that diff lube can > work it's way to the end of the axle tube, up into the spindle between > the axle shaft and the bottom of the internal spindle hole, to the end > of the spindle, and then back to the wheel bearings on the outside of > the spindle. That is what you mean, right? Right. Your fill plug in the diff cover should be higher than the bottom of the axle tube. Yes, this means your axle will be carrying more fluid. > Concerning the axle seal that Warn includes, does it fit into the back > of the spindle? Yes. > The spindle fits tight into the axle tube bearing pocket (perhaps with an > O-ring) and the axle seal fits into the back of the spindle? Yes. I can't remember if it uses an O-ring or not -I'd have to go look at the instructions, it's been a while. > The axle shaft then is machined in this area for a lip seal? Yes. > Thanks in advance for the clarification. I am learning. :) You're welcome. > I was thinking if I could somehow bolt on a set of front spindles (from the > '89 Grand Wagoneer or a Chevy of the right vintage etc), I could then install > all the front pieces such as brake mounting plate, hub/rotor, caliper, wheel > bearings... I would only need to get a set of custom axle shafts made to > finish the project. That would make a cheap way to get rear disk > brakes, have identical parts front and rear, and get full floating > axles. You can do that, but the Warn kit uses 30 spline hubs (or optional drive flanges) which are much stronger than the stock 19 spline internal hubs. FWIW, the hub used in the CJ D44 kits is a Dana 60 strength hub. The SJ kit, if it is still made, would use this as a minumum, but may even use the even bigger components Warn offers on their GM 10 & 12 bolt floater kits. You should still be able to easily adapt front disc brakes to the Warn kit. > Like you said though, purchasing a Warn kit is probably an > easier way to go. If I did get a Warn kit, are the shafts lifetime > warrantied? Jeff When they first sold the kits they were lifetime, but I don't think they are anymore. I think they give you the first axle free, after that, you have to buy. Paul __________________________________________________ Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:29:48 -0500 From: "Darren K. Page" Subject: xj: RE: D30 shift fork Bill, >From the site www.4x4posi-lok.com, it looks like it reuses the Al fork. I read an article in Canadian 4x4 about the Posilok, and it stated that Posilok recommends swapping the Al fork for the Dodge steel one. I know that I have the p/n somewhere but I can't find it right now. Also, from the photo, it looks like it replaces the housing. Darren K. Page Montreal, Qc - -----Original Message----- From: owner-xj-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-xj-at-digest.net]On Behalf Of samfans Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 4:49 PM To: xj-at-digest.net Subject: xj: D30 shift fork While I decide what I'm going to do (Hub conversion? Warn? Homebrew? cable shifter?) I dismantled the disco motor and placed a spacer on the shaft to hold the fork permanently in the locked position. Which Dodge fork fits? Anyone know if the posi-lock outfits come with new housing and fork? Is the fork aluminum? "Darren K. Page" wrote: > Bill, > > I would have to say that ,yes, you do need a charger. > > If I were in your position, I would use a slow charge for 24hrs or so, and > then try it again. > > Also, as for the D30, did you keep the Aluminum shift fork or upgrade to the > Steel Dodge one? Aren't those forks a weak point? The Dodge one is supposed > to be a direct swap. > > Darren K. Page > Montreal, Qc > > P.S. I'm still working on the D44 scans...I'm supposed to be moving soon, > and my scanner is still packed right now. I've been meaning to take it > out... > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-xj-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-xj-at-digest.net]On Behalf Of > samfans > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2001 6:39 PM > To: XJ Digest > Subject: xj: Help - battery run flat !! > > Can you guys help me with a simple question? > > I was installing the new locked D30 - which you can check out at the > link below (mandatory mod content :) ) > > I left it in the garage below freezing for several days with key in > "run" - drained the battery. > > Had to jumpstart to get it going. OK for a couple of days - then parked > it for 2-3 days again. > > Battery dead again - > > Battery, starter, relay and alternator are all new - battery is brand > new. > > What's the proper way to recover a battery from a run flat?? Do i need > a charger? > > Bill > > http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=212612&a=10982841 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:17:39 -0700 From: Donna&Joe Subject: xj: Re: Adding a Leaf ok? Gotta say my experience was not the same as Bob's here. I installed the Rubicon Express coil spacer/AAL 2" lift and my ride stiffened considerably. I don't mind, as it's more stable now towing my camper, but running empty and w/ no passengers, it's kinda rough. Might have been the R.E. AAL vs. some other brand, or it might have been the Old Man Emu shocks I installed concurrently, but I did notice a stiffer ride. I think I paid ~$100 for the spacers and full-length AALs, FWIW. Hasn't sagged in the 2 years since I did the install. And in a Paul W.-esque disclosure, while I didn't buy new U-bolts, you should make sure you do! - - Joe Richardson Bob Mock wrote: >If you get a full length or close to full length add-a-leaf it won't >stiffen ride that noticeably. I had the rough country short one for a >while and you're right they're stiff, but then I went to a full-length and >I find the ride quite comfortable now. > >Bob ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 02:05:01 -0500 From: Richard Welty Subject: xj: administrivia: notes on using this list Digest.Net mailing list "Meta FAQ" These general notes on using Digest.Net mailing lists are posted on the 1st and 15th of each month. This file may be found on the web at http://www.digest.net/general-notes.txt [last revised 8/30/00; Demime added, new HTML rules as a result, new spammer block list on web to replace Special Note] Special Note The list of alleged spammers which previously appeared here has been replaced by the new URL http://www.digest.net/blocked.html Additional information on Digest.Net's spam policies may be found at http://www.digest.net/email-policy.html Table of Contents 1. Why don't my postings go through? 2. Why can't I unsubscribe? 3. How do I post to the list? 4. Where are the archives? 5. What other lists are on digest.net? 6. Is there a web subscription form? 7. Why not move the lists to someplace like (egroups, topica,...)? 8. What is Krusty Motorsports, anyway? The Meta-FAQ 1. Why don't my postings go through? There are several things that may interfere with postings making it to the list. a) Are you a member? Some read the ftp archives rather than receiving the list in email. Persons who read the list via email are automatically members, but readers of the FTP archive are not, and need to contact me (rwelty-at-krusty-motorsports.com) and get your name added to the list of "permitted senders". b) has your email address changed? some of you have had changes in your email address. your old address still works, and is still on the list, but your From: line shows a new address. this can happen for various reasons; you may have changed jobs or ISPs, and left a forward in place, or your IT staff may have fiddled with the email system. you will need to unsubscribe your old email address and subscribe the new one. this may require my involvement, if you can't figure out a way to get your old address off the list using the conventional majordomo commands. you can use the majordomo "which" command to probe for old addresses. send a message to majordomo-at-digest.net with one or more which commands in the body, one per line. to check for potential addresses for Fred Flinstone, formerly of bedrock.org, the following commands can be sent: which flintstone which bedrock note that the matches above might return any of the following addresses, if they appear in the list (in other words, you can use vagueness and incompleteness in your recollection as a tool): Fred.Flinstone-at-bedrock.org fflinstone-at-wilma.bedrock.org flintstonef-at-bedrock.com c) do you have more than one email address? if so, only the subscribed addresses can post, unless you contact me (see 1.a) above for relevant information) d) are you using (intentionally or accidentially) special "features" of your mail client? [this section is no longer operative, as the demime software now strips html, attachments, rich text format, etc. from postings automatically.] e) are your posts too large? there is a 10,000 character limit on posting sizes; this is done for various reasons. you can always split up large postings to get mail through. f) are you including majordomo commands at the start of your message? administrivia control is turned on; this is a trap for things like "unsubscribe" at the start of a message. try to avoid obvious majordomo commands in the subject and the first 10 lines, or misspell them in obvious ways (e.g. unzubscribe, 1ndex, h3lp, g3t, etc.) g) are you triggering spam traps? some things are red flags; for example, the following phrases in subject lines are automatically blocked: Important Message From growth stocks free calling card direct e-mail secrets Merchant Account Mass Marketing make money fast Pediatric advice Email ? Million People what "they" don't want are you being investigated the actual list is quite a bit longer; i think you get the idea. h) are you using "funky" character sets? [7 bit restriction lifted experimentally on 8/2/00 -- film at 11] unfortunately, there are "issues" if i permit any character set other than old fashioned 7 level ASCII; therefore, you need to avoid national character sets that include various accents, umlauts, national currency characters such as the British pound symbol, etc. i) are you unintentionally including complete digests in your reply? You need to check and make sure you cut down replys to the minimal size; digests are between 20,000 and 25,000 characters in length, and if you include a complete digest in your reply, it clearly won't make the 10,000 character limit. By the way, this feature is intentional. j) Are you using a "bad" ISP or mail relay? See http://www.digest.net/email-policy.html for more information about Digest.Net policies about email. k) Is the error message you get back "User Unknown"? If so, you may be running afoul of MAPS (see j above). MAPS returns an error code of 550, which is a generic code that many broken mail systems report as "user unknown". If you know the IP address of your ISPs mail relay, you can go to the maps web site and test to see if it is on the RBL or the RSS. Additionally, the "rejectlog" entries for the previous day's mail traffic on digest.net are now visible at http://www.digest.net/rejectlog.01 Finally, some of you may find it useful or instructive to use the telnet program to connect directly to port 25 on krusty-motorsports.com and see what kind of reply you get; this requires some technical knowledge and is not for everyone (you can get out of this at anytime after the initial banner simply by typing quit and hitting enter.) 2. Why can't I unsubscribe? a) are you using the right address? send to majordomo-at-digest.net, and the command format is unsubscribe list-name my-email-address b) has your email address changed? majordomo has no way of knowing that Fred.Flinstone-at-BarneyCo.com was once fflintstone-at-bedrock.org. you can check this with the which command (see 1.b) above for details) 3. How do I post to the list? You may use either one of two addresses: for example, the bmw-digest may be reached using either bmw-at-digest.net or bmw-digest-at-digest.net If you are using the correct addresses and your posts don't show up, check out the stuff in 1. above. 4. Where are the archives? see ftp://ftp.digest.net/ for digest archives. the web archives have proven problematic, and are awaiting time for a systematic attack on the problems they've been having. 5. What other lists are on digest.net? see http://www.digest.net/ for more information. 6. Is there a web subscription form? Yes, recently added. go to http://www.digest.net/bin/digest-subs.cgi 7. Why not move the lists to someplace like (egroups, topica,...)? The Krusty Motorsports server (aka, digest.net) was explicitly to provide for efficient management of the various automotive mailing lists, done the way that the owner of the server wanted it done. Any migration off of the server (which is already bought, paid for, and configured) would create any number of issues. 8. What is Krusty Motorsports, anyway? Krusty Motorsports (http:/www.krusty-motorsports.com/) is a business which is owned and operated by Richard Welty (rwelty-at-krusty-motorsports.com). Krusty is, as of this writing, changing from a DBA in Rensselaer County, New York, to an S-Corporation in the State of New York. Krusty provides a number of Internet related services, such as mailing list, web sites, pop3/telnet accounts, and consulting on internet related issues. For more information, see the web site for Krusty. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 23:35:17 -0800 From: john Subject: xj: s/w question - kinda off topic... I'm looking at some s/w to use to assemble the book I've been working on for awhile... I'm thinking that Adobe Frame Maker might be the solution. I've found some copies on ebay for version 5.5, some for PC's and some for UNIX. My preference is for the UNIX version so I don't have to put up with annoying memory leaks and reboots. I've got an Ultra 10 (440Mhz Risc) and an HP 715/100, both or either with plenty of disk space and memory to deal with it... but I don't know the s/w. Someone mentioned using it but I haven't heard all the details yet. No, microsoft word or publisher will NOT work, the file in word becomes ridiculously large and corrupted quite quickly... and the printers I've talked to said not to use anything microsoft. THey suggested pagemaker. I think Frame-Maker is in that same class, right? thanx for the input, please cc me since I'm in digest mode, and since this isn't too related to the lists, you may not want to send your reply to the list... If you have an interest in any answers I get then let me know off list and I'll share what I find... sorry for the off-topic post but there's a lot of resources among us. :) thanx, john - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 15:32:50 -0600 From: Doug Wright Subject: Re: xj: bad lifter! This just keeps getting worse. I'm going to pull the cam as soon as I can get a puller for the harmonic balancer. What else should I be worried about or need to inspect before reassembling the motor. Thanks, Doug >It looks to me like the lifter wasn't rotating. Maybe the rocker was too >tight, a defective lifter or cam, a burr in the lifter bore clogged oil passage >to that bore off the galley (not sure of the fluid schematics of the AMC 6)? >Just some ideas. My guess is the cam is going to be bad, too. :( >You just don't get that kind of wear out of a lifter and still find a nice, >servicable cam. > >Paul >(I'll let others speculate on the rich mixture thing) > >--- Doug Wright wrote: >> Ok ... after removing the head, I've determined that I *definitely* have a >> bad lifter. Here are some pictures of it next to a good one: >> >> http://wrighdg.home.mindspring.com/lifters/ >> >> It's got major wear and concavitiy, and wore so far through that there's a >> hole in the bottom, which explains why it wouldn't hold pressure. >> >> The question is why did it wear like that and is something else wrong? Cam >> maybe? What should my next step be? >> >> Anything else I should be looking for also while I've got it apart? >> Everything is very black (plugs, valves, piston tops, exhaust ports, O2 >> sensor, tailpipe, etc.) which I assume is from running too rich. How bad is >> this? I'm running #24 injectors on a NHO stroker with a stock NHO t-body, >> so I may go back to stock injectors until I can increase air flow. I >> getting terrible gas mileage as well ... never better than about 12.5mpg >> city or highway for the last few months, and not much better when I had the >> stock injectors. I have some HO injectors which I could use too, since I >> think it was actually too lean with the stock injectors. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Doug >> >> doug-at-hammerdesigns.net > > >__________________________________________________ >Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 >a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > doug-at-hammerdesigns.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 16:00:36 -0600 From: Doug Wright Subject: xj: steering box I've needed to replace my steering box for a while. It's been leaking and is really hard to turn the first few times just after startup. I figured now would be a good time since I've got almost everything out of the engine bay, except for the block. I was wondering if anyone had experience with the AGR unit and if it is worth the money. Should I go with that or just a stock replacement? Thanks, Doug doug-at-hammerdesigns.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 18:19:51 -0400 From: samfans Subject: xj: axle question - turn knuckles ?? Well, with the pinion adjusted for no front shaft vibes (10 degerees BTW) I have little or no castor and combined with the fulltime locker, the steering is TERRIBLE - all over the road! The hub conversion is nice but over $2k when it's said and done, and it's still a D30 (altho with the strength of a D44) My only other options are - - try a YJ non-cv shaft cut down,and lower the pinion - but I hear the angles will be to extreme on the U-joints?? or - - cut and turn the knuckles. But with the XJ spring mounts and such - there's no damn room. Sooooo Can I turn the tubes at the housing? drill out the plug welds, turn whole tubes, then re-weld? Or are they pressed in too tight??? Is there any chance this sort of thing could be accomplished at a home shop ?? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 18:24:47 -0400 From: samfans Subject: Re: xj: steering box Doug, check on NAXJA.com, Nay and Beezil over there both have some experiance with AGR. Bill Doug Wright wrote: > I've needed to replace my steering box for a while. It's been leaking and > is really hard to turn the first few times just after startup. I figured > now would be a good time since I've got almost everything out of the engine > bay, except for the block. > > I was wondering if anyone had experience with the AGR unit and if it is > worth the money. Should I go with that or just a stock replacement? > > Thanks, > > Doug > > doug-at-hammerdesigns.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 17:46:04 -0500 From: Jim Champoux Subject: Re: xj: steering box I got mine for 20 bucks out of a junk yard. Its a standard saginaw steerring box put in millions of GM cars. I didnt have the money for an AGR but hey for 20 bucks. Find a clean, late model one, buy new hoses from autozone, flush the juice a couple of times and you are good to go >I've needed to replace my steering box for a while. It's been leaking and >is really hard to turn the first few times just after startup. I figured >now would be a good time since I've got almost everything out of the engine >bay, except for the block. > >I was wondering if anyone had experience with the AGR unit and if it is >worth the money. Should I go with that or just a stock replacement? > >Thanks, > >Doug > >doug-at-hammerdesigns.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 18:37:35 -0500 From: Bob Mock Subject: Re: xj: axle question - turn knuckles ?? Bill, I in the same boat as you....please keep us informed as you decide what you're doing. I havn't decided yet what i'm doing. I may lower the t-case as a temp measure to solve the problem. I'm also considering designing an integral skid-plate that would lower the tranny without sacrificing ground clearnance. Bob >Well, with the pinion adjusted for no front shaft vibes (10 degerees >BTW) I have little or no castor and combined with the fulltime locker, >the steering is TERRIBLE - all over the road! > >The hub conversion is nice but over $2k when it's said and done, and >it's still a D30 (altho with the strength of a D44) > >My only other options are > >- try a YJ non-cv shaft cut down,and lower the pinion - but I hear the >angles will be to extreme on the U-joints?? > >or > >- cut and turn the knuckles. But with the XJ spring mounts and such - >there's no damn room. Sooooo > >Can I turn the tubes at the housing? drill out the plug welds, turn >whole tubes, then re-weld? Or are they pressed in too tight??? > >Is there any chance this sort of thing could be accomplished at a home >shop ?? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 16:23:40 -0800 (PST) From: "Paul W." Subject: Re: xj: axle question - turn knuckles ?? You CAN cut & turn the XJ knuckle yokes... that is essentially what I did when I put Scout D30 knuckle yokes on mine. A plasma cutter will make it a LOT easier... and you'll want to remove the axle from the rig for easy access. Turning at the housing can be done, but it is harder to do. The tubes are pressed into the housing tighter than the knuckles are. The guy who has narrowed a few D44's for me (and lots of other folks) says he avoids removing tubes from the pumpkins whenever possible as they are a major big PIA - and he has the tools to do this sort of thing - in fact, it's pretty much his main source of income. (He does other machine work, too - but ~80-90% of his business is making custom axles.) Paul samfans wrote: > Well, with the pinion adjusted for no front shaft vibes (10 degerees > BTW) I have little or no castor and combined with the fulltime locker, > the steering is TERRIBLE - all over the road! > > The hub conversion is nice but over $2k when it's said and done, and > it's still a D30 (altho with the strength of a D44) > > My only other options are > > - try a YJ non-cv shaft cut down,and lower the pinion - but I hear the > angles will be to extreme on the U-joints?? > > or > > - cut and turn the knuckles. But with the XJ spring mounts and such - > there's no damn room. Sooooo > > Can I turn the tubes at the housing? drill out the plug welds, turn > whole tubes, then re-weld? Or are they pressed in too tight??? > > Is there any chance this sort of thing could be accomplished at a home > shop ?? __________________________________________________ Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ End of xj-digest V1 #1071 *************************