From owner-xj-digest-at-digest.net Mon Feb 12 12:36:58 2001 From: xj-digest xj-digest Sunday, February 11 2001 Volume 01 : Number 1082 Forum for Discussion of XJ cherokees and wagoneers Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: xj: New Dana 44 U-joints xj: 44 stuff to be liquidated xj: Re: New Dana 44 U-joints Re: xj: My RTI Ramp ;) Re: xj: My Saturday - And A Couple Of Thank You's xj: Re: the ever thickening superdawg plot... xj: rebuilt but won't start xj: the 80 and the 83 cherokee... xj: Re: rebuilt but won't start xj: Replacing engine mounts question. xj: Re: Replacing engine mounts question. xj: Re: Re: Replacing engine mounts question. Re: xj: More axle / hub stuff Re: xj: rebuilt but won't start XJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeep/xj/ Send submissions to xj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to xj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to xj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 10:43:54 -0800 (PST) From: "Paul W." Subject: xj: New Dana 44 U-joints Picked this up off one of my local lists (NWTrails) and I know some of you may be extremely interested, I know I am: > For those of you running Dana 44 front ends I have some good news from > Keith over at Redline. He is currently working on a new u-joint design > with a company out on the east coast. This new u-joint should be available > in about 2 months. I may have a set in my Toyota in about 3 weeks to test. (FWIW - This guy's Toyota is running one of Redline's new Birf Eliminator kits - - which from the sound of things, is much better than Warn's) > Here is the deal: This new Dana 44 u-joint will be 50-70% stronger (if > not more) than a stock u-joint, so this brings it up into dana 60 > strength. > Sounds to good to be true I know................................. > > Here is what I know: > > The u-joint will be cast of 4130 aircraft metal and will be solid > through and through unlike a standard joint that is hallow inside allowing > grease to enter for the needle bearings. The new joint will not have > needle bearings either, instead it will have a high yield super slick > metal coating on the ends that is currently in use in the aeronautics > industry and has been taking the place of bearings. This means that since > you don't need a lubricant or needle bearings you can increase the > strength of the joint big time. The joint will still have end caps but > since you don't have needle bearings it allows the joint to be much larger > in diameter at the neck where the needle bearings use to be. The entire > joint will be "thicker" and "solid", not hallow. Cast from 4130 air craft > grade metal which will increase the strength at least by 50% if not more > (still needs to be tested). Keith thinks it will be at least 70%. This > joint will be a patent design by Redline and will be sold under Redline's > name. Keith is thinking that the joints would sell for approx. $50.00 each > ($100 a set) with a lifetime warranty for any vehicle running 38" or > smaller tires. > > This is still in R&D phase and Keith may have a set to test in 2 or 3 > weeks. Hopefully 2 weeks and I may be testing them in my Toy. If all > goes well and the product works out he should start mass producing them > and have them on the market in about 2 months from now. This could be a > huge breakthrough in the industry from what I can tell. Tons of people > running 44 front ends out there. > > Joe > E-mail: locktup-at-whidbey.net > Web site: http://www2.whidbey.net/locktup > Rubicon, Dusy Ershim, Swamp Lake, Death Valley & Moab tested. Now you're probably wondering how you can get in touch with Redline and see what other products and services they offer, right? Redline Offroad http://www.redlineoffroad.com/redlineproducts.htm 11710 Airport Road Suite#A-200, Everett, WA 98204 Call Toll-Free 1-866-744-Axle (2953) Local call (425)348-7775 Fax: (425)348-7236 E-mail: Info-at-Redlineoffroad.com Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 10:54:20 -0800 (PST) From: "Paul W." Subject: xj: 44 stuff to be liquidated If anyone is interested in any of this stuff, this guy doesn't live too far from me, so if you want someting, let me know and for the price of shipping and a fair amount (my cost) for me to package it for you, I will ship his stuff to you... even if he won't ;) You can contact him, or go thru me, whichever suits you best. All I ask is if you go thru him that you let me know so I can get the shipping stuff together. Paul Roger wrote: > Diligence and the generosity of a fellow SNORT member have led to my > acquiring a complete hub to hub HP60. I will be getting rid of all my > HP 44 stuff. If anyone is interested let me know. I would rather not > ship anything cause it's a PITA so I'm offering it up to the NW before > putting it on any other boards or lists. > > This is all Full width F150 HP 44 stuff except for one housing that > I've been running. Its got a Lock Right and 4.56 gears and the > C'bushing mounts have been moved in to work on an early Bronco. It > has no knuckles. If anyone is interested in having the long side > shortened so it will be stock Bronco width and a direct axle bolt in > Redline Offroad in Everett can do that for about $100. I want $400 > for the housing, locker and gears. > > I have a pile of full width inner and outer big u-joint axles. I have > one good set with HD u-joints that the caps have been welded on and > should be kept as a set. Inner or outer $40 add $10 for the stub > shaft and yes the set with the welded u-joints are $50 inner or outer > but I'll give anyone that wants both a package deal $90. > > If anyone is interested in disc brakes on a 44 this is the deal. I > have two scout knuckles that have tall steering arms. Top of the > knuckle actually. I have had them reamed on top for an F150 tie rod. > They have been sand blasted and are ready for assembly. $60 ea. > > I have a brand new F150 tie rod for the above. It's the long one with > the drag link hole next to the ball joint. The drag link hole has > been reamed on the proper side for the Scout knuckles. $45 > > Two, brand spanking new, in the box, never been used Spicer spindles > for the chev. brake conversion on the Scout knuckles. Or perfect for > use on a chev. conversion for an EB. $65 ea. > > Chev backing plates for the front conversion, the sloppy shield has > been ground off and they are pretty clean. $20 ea. > > Ford hubs and rotors for the disc conversion. All in good shape. > Rotors are $20 ea. and the hubs are $20 ea. > > Brand new upper and lower ball joint's for above. $20 ea. > > If anyone want's all the disc conversion stuff from the knuckles to > the ball joint I'll knock $50 off the total and let it go for $350. > You will need the calipers but they are only about $30-$35 ea. > > I know this is kind of a Scott L. deal :>) Couldn't resist Scott but > like I say it was a deal I couldn't pass up on the 60 and since the > rigs being rebuilt anyway now is the time. > > I owe Dave Lippman and axle so Dave let me know which one you want so > I can take it out of the pile. If anyone is interested in any of this > send me a private email so we don't clog the lists. > > Thanks. > > Roger Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 13:10:15 -0700 From: "Aaron Storms" Subject: xj: Re: New Dana 44 U-joints Sounds cool to me! Keep us updated. Aaron Aaron Storms Black Hawk, CO aaron.storms-at-mindspring.com - ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul W. To: xjdigest ; Jeep-Off Road Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 11:43 AM Subject: xj: New Dana 44 U-joints > Picked this up off one of my local lists (NWTrails) and I know some of you may > be extremely interested, I know I am: > > > For those of you running Dana 44 front ends I have some good news from > > Keith over at Redline. He is currently working on a new u-joint design > > with a company out on the east coast. This new u-joint should be available > > in about 2 months. I may have a set in my Toyota in about 3 weeks to test. > > (FWIW - This guy's Toyota is running one of Redline's new Birf Eliminator kits > - which from the sound of things, is much better than Warn's) > > > Here is the deal: This new Dana 44 u-joint will be 50-70% stronger (if > > not more) than a stock u-joint, so this brings it up into dana 60 > > strength. > > Sounds to good to be true I know................................. > > > > Here is what I know: > > > > The u-joint will be cast of 4130 aircraft metal and will be solid > > through and through unlike a standard joint that is hallow inside allowing > > grease to enter for the needle bearings. The new joint will not have > > needle bearings either, instead it will have a high yield super slick > > metal coating on the ends that is currently in use in the aeronautics > > industry and has been taking the place of bearings. This means that since > > you don't need a lubricant or needle bearings you can increase the > > strength of the joint big time. The joint will still have end caps but > > since you don't have needle bearings it allows the joint to be much larger > > in diameter at the neck where the needle bearings use to be. The entire > > joint will be "thicker" and "solid", not hallow. Cast from 4130 air craft > > grade metal which will increase the strength at least by 50% if not more > > (still needs to be tested). Keith thinks it will be at least 70%. This > > joint will be a patent design by Redline and will be sold under Redline's > > name. Keith is thinking that the joints would sell for approx. $50.00 each > > ($100 a set) with a lifetime warranty for any vehicle running 38" or > > smaller tires. > > > > This is still in R&D phase and Keith may have a set to test in 2 or 3 > > weeks. Hopefully 2 weeks and I may be testing them in my Toy. If all > > goes well and the product works out he should start mass producing them > > and have them on the market in about 2 months from now. This could be a > > huge breakthrough in the industry from what I can tell. Tons of people > > running 44 front ends out there. > > > > Joe > > E-mail: locktup-at-whidbey.net > > Web site: http://www2.whidbey.net/locktup > > Rubicon, Dusy Ershim, Swamp Lake, Death Valley & Moab tested. > > Now you're probably wondering how you can get in touch with Redline and see > what other products and services they offer, right? > > Redline Offroad > http://www.redlineoffroad.com/redlineproducts.htm > 11710 Airport Road Suite#A-200, Everett, WA 98204 > Call Toll-Free 1-866-744-Axle (2953) > Local call (425)348-7775 > Fax: (425)348-7236 > E-mail: Info-at-Redlineoffroad.com > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 > a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 12:29:04 -0800 From: "Phil M." Subject: Re: xj: My RTI Ramp ;) Paul, you must not have seen my driver's side yesterday. I think the white is worn off of my front driver's side tire. All that pulling into the fast food drive through wears on it. You should see the looks on their faces when I actually pull up on the "curb" that they have next to the window. Hehe. These tires won't be on long enough for the white to matter. :o) Phil From: "Paul W." Nice pics! Your first picture http://www.mike-g.net/jeep/yinyang/pics/flextest1/backt.jpg is great for convincing folks to mount the white letters in. ;) Did you know the white 'rubber' compound used to give youe white letters is weaker? That's why race cars with white letter tires are painted on. Paul Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 12:37:00 -0800 From: "Phil M." Subject: Re: xj: My Saturday - And A Couple Of Thank You's Not a problem at all. I think I had the best night's sleep after workin' like that yesterday. :o) I'm buying a cutting torch. lol But alas, it was nice to see a dead Chebby. Phil MoPar or NoCar! From: "Paul W." Well, John, you're not the only person who had an 'adventure' Saturday... I drove around for 5 hours and never left the nice weather we were experiencing here in Western Washington. No, I didn't go wheelin'. I drove down to Kent and picked up Phil M and we then went south some more to Tacoma, where we met up with Terry B and the home of Jed, a guy who was parting out a 1993 Camaro with a 3.4L V6. Phil, Terry & I spent the better part of the day (from ~2PM to 10PM) pulling the 3.4 out of this Camaro - that had had the nose of the car run over by a tractor-trailer rig that had run a red light. Needless to say, no FSM covers how to pull a motor out of a car with this much damage - but between the 3 of us, we finally got it out. I thought it was great that these two guys were willing and able to help me with fairly short notice (a couple days)... and Terry had never even met me in person before. THANKS GUYS! And a second thank-you goes to Terry for finding the motor for me! Paul Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 14:16:53 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: xj: Re: the ever thickening superdawg plot... tom, et. al. believe it or not... I just bought an '80 cherokee in spokane sight unseen... $1,500, 108k, 6, at, ac, np208... narrow track... now, to figure out how to get it home. :) thanx ben for posting the ad! You weren't kidding that john would be interested in it. :) I'm sure it's not perfect but it's got the basics I'm looking for... will probably drop the howell engineering kit on it. :) (need to order it again. ;) I was able to see the picture, it's got the ugly '80 grille, valve cover is supposed to leak, and so on. it's a plain jane setup. decent fuel economy, good runner. Straight, rust free. The guy bought it from the original owner in lewiston, ID. the wife blessed the deal. I think this will work out well, I'll have time to move my stuff over from superdawg to the cherokee, clean both up, and when I sell the benz and superdawg we'll be able to pay off a bunch of overruns on the kitchen remodel. At this point being debt free (short term) is more important than having my garage. :) also meeting a guy that may buy the benz tomorrow. PTL!!! I'm at work right now rebooting servers and workstations after a network problem... gotta run, Oh, btw, I met the guy with the '83 Cherokee. oh baby, is that rig pretty. Anyone looking for a WT Cherokee with a 360, you need this guy. Sunroof, aux tank, 33x12's, super, super clean. carb needs to be dialed in, otherwise it's a sweet machine, guy's asking $5k. I've got to hurry paul kershner wants to come over and play in my full size jeep parts pile. :) john On Sun, 11 Feb 2001, Thomas Anhalt wrote: >--> >-->----- Original Message ----- >-->From: "john" >-->To: "Tom & Anna Anhalt" >-->Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 5:16 PM >-->Subject: Re: the ever thickening superdawg plot... ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux **** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://junkscience.com ** http://snopes.com ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA ...don't leave life without Jesus, please... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 16:28:32 -0600 From: Doug Wright Subject: xj: rebuilt but won't start I reassembled the motor with the new cam and lifters, but now that I have it back together, it won't run. I'm lost as to why. I'm pretty sure I reconnected everything and I was careful putting it back together. Following the instructions in the Haynes manual, I turned over the engine with no plugs to build up the oil pressure, but the gauge didn't move. I then put the plugs back in and tried to crank it but it just turns over and won't catch. There is pressure in the fuel rail, but I'm not sure how to tell if it's getting a spark or not. I'm pretty sure the distributor is pointing at the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. Also, does it matter if I have the valve cover on? It's been off this whole time. Any ideas as to what my problem might be? Thanks, Doug doug-at-hammerdesigns.net ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:12:58 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: xj: the 80 and the 83 cherokee... I'm still at work... rebooting systems after a network problem, but here's a crude picture of the 80 cherokee I'm buying, haven't seen it yet, but that's ok... ;) http://wagoneers.com/80-cherokee-spokane.jpg anyone need a ride to seattle from spokane? maybe you can drive it here for me. ;) and here's the 83 cherokee that rick is selling for $5,000 asking price, it's loaded, it needs some carb work that I think he'll handle, it's super clean: http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/rigs/83-Cherokee all pix: http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/rigs/83-Cherokee/ALL-pix.html rick's number is 253.537.7807 he's down by puyallup. that's south of Seattle... don't ask me to spell the pronunciation, but I reserve the right to laugh at the way you pronounce it. ;) ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux **** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://junkscience.com ** http://snopes.com ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA ...don't leave life without Jesus, please... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:13:03 -0800 From: "Bill & Jennie" Subject: xj: Re: rebuilt but won't start Doug, By far the most common reassembly mistake is timing. Double check to make sure #1 is -at- tdc compression. Also double check firing order. Easy spark test, put an old spark plug or screwdriver in plug or coil wire, hold near a good ground while cranking, look for spark. Make sure you are well isolated or you may get zapped yourself {at least you'll know you got spark:>)}. Bill If it was safe, it wouldn't be fun! - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Wright" To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 2:28 PM Subject: xj: rebuilt but won't start > I reassembled the motor with the new cam and lifters, but now that I have it > back together, it won't run. I'm lost as to why. I'm pretty sure I > reconnected everything and I was careful putting it back together. > Following the instructions in the Haynes manual, I turned over the engine > with no plugs to build up the oil pressure, but the gauge didn't move. I > then put the plugs back in and tried to crank it but it just turns over and > won't catch. There is pressure in the fuel rail, but I'm not sure how to > tell if it's getting a spark or not. I'm pretty sure the distributor is > pointing at the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. Also, does > it matter if I have the valve cover on? It's been off this whole time. Any > ideas as to what my problem might be? > > Thanks, > > Doug > > doug-at-hammerdesigns.net ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:46:17 +1000 From: Nigel.Chan-at-alcatel.com.au Subject: xj: Replacing engine mounts question. Hi all, I just replaced the rear transmission mount on my Cherokee and it fixed my original problem of rattling when reversing. The mount looked crushed compared to the new one. Now I have a new problem, when accelerating hard in drive I can feel the whole transmission move around, I could feel this happening with the old trans mount but now it is more noticable. I guess I should also change my engine mounts, they probably have had it too. Does anyone know if the left and right engine mounts are the same part or are they different. I called the dealer and the left mount is more expensive than the right mount. Also, what is the easiest way to change out the engine mounts? I have a trolley jack, chassis stands, bottle jack and the mandatory socket set. Cheers, Nigel - -- Nigel Chan | 95 XJ Cherokee, 4.0L HO, AW4, NP242, nigel.chan-at-ieee.org | OME 2", ARB Bullbar, Safari Snorkel, nigel.chan-at-alcatel.com.au | Kaymar Rearstep Towbar & Wheel Carrier, Sydney, Australia | Whiteline Adj Trackbar, 31x10.5 BFG AT's. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 19:08:50 -0700 From: "Aaron Storms" Subject: xj: Re: Replacing engine mounts question. Nigel, don't know about the difference between left and right ($80 US for the set), but I replaced mine with the MORE bulletproof poly mounts to help keep my fan out of my radiator and it works fine, but tends to transmit a bit more vibration than the factory rubber motor mounts. I used a floor jack under the oil pan with a 2x4 on top to take the weight and pressure off of the mounts, then loosened/rotated the oil filter housing and removed the factory airbox to allow for more wrenching room. The entire process only took about two hours with me moving carefully and cleaning as I went. Each bolt was easy to remove and the mounts just pull straight up if you do one side at a time. Remember which way you took out the horizontal mount bolts and just reverse the process to install. Have fun, Aaron Aaron Storms Black Hawk, CO aaron.storms-at-mindspring.com - ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 7:46 PM Subject: xj: Replacing engine mounts question. > Hi all, > > I just replaced the rear transmission mount on my Cherokee and it fixed my > original problem of rattling when reversing. The mount looked crushed compared > to the new one. Now I have a new problem, when accelerating hard in drive I can > feel the whole transmission move around, I could feel this happening with the > old trans mount but now it is more noticable. I guess I should also change my > engine mounts, they probably have had it too. > > Does anyone know if the left and right engine mounts are the same part or are > they different. I called the dealer and the left mount is more expensive than > the right mount. > > Also, what is the easiest way to change out the engine mounts? I have a trolley > jack, chassis stands, bottle jack and the mandatory socket set. > > Cheers, > Nigel > > -- > Nigel Chan | 95 XJ Cherokee, 4.0L HO, AW4, NP242, > nigel.chan-at-ieee.org | OME 2", ARB Bullbar, Safari Snorkel, > nigel.chan-at-alcatel.com.au | Kaymar Rearstep Towbar & Wheel Carrier, > Sydney, Australia | Whiteline Adj Trackbar, 31x10.5 BFG AT's. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 19:12:29 -0700 From: "Aaron Storms" Subject: xj: Re: Re: Replacing engine mounts question. Sorry guys, don't know how this appeared here when I was replying to a question on the moab list. Aaron ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 02:41:03 From: "Bill Ansell" Subject: Re: xj: More axle / hub stuff Paul, Thanks for help so far. If I can't source the chev caliper brackets locally / cheaply, can I add Scout front D44 caliper brackets into the mix - a buddy has a set? If so, can I still use the GM calipers (which i'll be buying new)? Is it worth trying to source / buy new dust shields or should I just delete them if they're hard to find? This is going to be one crazy mix !! Thanks, Bill _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 18:39:34 -0800 (PST) From: Kevin Rumell Subject: Re: xj: rebuilt but won't start - --- Doug Wright wrote: > I reassembled the motor with the new cam and > lifters, but now that I have it > back together, it won't run. I'm lost as to why. > I'm pretty sure I > reconnected everything and I was careful putting it > back together. > Following the instructions in the Haynes manual, I > turned over the engine > with no plugs to build up the oil pressure, but the > gauge didn't move. I > then put the plugs back in and tried to crank it but > it just turns over and > won't catch. There is pressure in the fuel rail, > but I'm not sure how to > tell if it's getting a spark or not. I'm pretty > sure the distributor is > pointing at the #1 cylinder at TDC on the > compression stroke. Also, does > it matter if I have the valve cover on? It's been > off this whole time. Any > ideas as to what my problem might be? > > Thanks, > > Doug > > doug-at-hammerdesigns.net I don't know how deep you were into the motor, but are you sure the cam is timed properly? Are you sure the engine has compression? Having the valve cover off should make no difference in starting (other than a significant mess if it does start). If you've got fuel pressure on the fuel rail, that's a good sign, I'm assuming this is a late model fuel injection engine. Recheck to be sure you've got #1 on tdc compression, not exhaust, and realign the distributor so the rotor is facing #1 tower in cap, and recheck firing order. Remember, if you've got fuel,spark,and compression, it oughtta run! Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ End of xj-digest V1 #1082 *************************