From owner-xj-digest-at-digest.net Tue Sep 9 20:54:00 2008 From: xj-digest xj-digest Wednesday, September 10 2008 Volume 01 : Number 2865 Forum for Discussion of XJ cherokees and wagoneers Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: xj: Stuck bearing... Re: xj: Re: Stuck bearing... Re: xj: Stuck bearing... Re: xj: Re: Stuck bearing... xj: on the road again... xj: electric motors XJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeep/xj/ Send submissions to xj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to xj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to xj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 13:32:45 +0100 From: "Stephen Rigley" Subject: Re: xj: Stuck bearing... I've JUST done exactly that, many thanks! Wow it really was TIGHT in there.. Steve * think my back is about to give up after all this.. I need a lift.. * On Sun, Sep 7, 2008 at 1:30 PM, Christopher Wilson wrote: > I've seen people carefully cut the race in half with a cutting > wheel/dremel. > The trick is to just cut the race and not the tube... > > On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 12:17 PM, Stephen Rigley wrote: > > > Can't get at the rear of it I'm afraid as its in the axle tube.. > > Also, just to add to it.. I've no heat available at present.. if you > think > > it'll budge it I see if I can pick up a gas blowtorch locally. > > Just took some pics , see here: > > http://srigley.powweb.com/picupload/v/old+pics/MX5+stuff/?g2_page=2 > > > > Thanks! > > Steve > > > > > > > > > > On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 5:03 PM, john wrote: > > > > > hard to visualize what you've got, but I've pulled bearings and > > > their races out of hubs with old sockets... you lay the hub > > > or drum or rotor on a piece of wood, face down, the way the race > > > needs to come out... then you put the socket into the other end > > > with just enough hitting the lip... if you can, then wail on it > > > from that side until it comes out... > > > > > > heat and cold work... heat one, cool the other... > > > > > > the other option is to use an old screwdriver and hammer from > > > the backside. > > > > > > probably the safest and sanest option is to take that piece, if > > > you can, to a professional. :) > > > > > > got a picture of what you're trying to do so I can offer a bit > > > more realistic idea? I'm heading out to my shop to fabricate > > > some seat mounts to put the WJ leather seats in my K1500 Blazer. > > > > > > john > > > > > > > > > ----- > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > > > SAVE fuel: use synthetics: > http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > > > SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf > > > http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > On Sat, 6 Sep 2008, Stephen Rigley wrote: > > > > > > # I got the 1/4" pin out of the cross shaft, out came the axle, the > seal > > > took > > > # a bit of work but came out with some persuasion. Now.. am stuck with > > the > > > # bearing, even with liberal use of the slide hammer,.. the bearing > > > internals > > > # have long since fallen out, so I'm left with the ... race (that what > > its > > > # called? The external metal ring on the bearing?). Just now my new > > slide > > > # hammer has disintegrated.. the threads on the shaft have allowed the > > nut > > > to > > > # slip.. which has ruined them :-( > > > # Would it be a bad idea to cut out the sides of the bearing with a > > dremel > > > to > > > # ease its grip on the axle tube? Or is it made from something > > uncuttable > > > with > > > # a cutting disk (it seems pretty hard metal)? > > > # > > > # Any inspiration appreciated ;-) > > > # > > > # Steve > > > # ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 07:35:55 -0700 From: Jim Blair Subject: Re: xj: Re: Stuck bearing... I was about to say you were on the right track. I stuff a wet rag into the housing just past the race so any bits that fly off from the dremel don't make it to the gear oil in the diff. There is a ring on the axle holding the bearing that can be busted off the same way as removing the race. I've also used a chisel to shatter them (trail fix) then once the bearing is off, inspect the area where the seal rides (make sure no nicks!) An old school way of protecting the shaft while chiseling is to use electricians tape temporarily in case you slip. The bearing locking ring is supposed to be pressed on, but I have used a piece of pipe like a slide hammer to get it on (tape has to be removed first so you can get the ring on of course! I'd probably tape it again to protect it while hammering the ring down) Nowadays I have a cheapo Harbor Freight press in my garage for doing that and Ujoints too (I still do most of those with a hammer and socket though) From: "Stephen Rigley" Subject: Re: xj: Re: Stuck bearing... Got it out this morning.. I attacked it with my dremel and it was out in 5 mins, nice one! Now comes the fun of putting the new one in.. I assume it just involves lots of pounding/whackery? Cheers Steve _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 08:53:40 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: xj: Stuck bearing... yes, that is a common practice, forgot about that trick. cutoff wheel. john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Sun, 7 Sep 2008, Christopher Wilson wrote: # I've seen people carefully cut the race in half with a cutting wheel/dremel. # The trick is to just cut the race and not the tube... # # On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 12:17 PM, Stephen Rigley wrote: # # > Can't get at the rear of it I'm afraid as its in the axle tube.. # > Also, just to add to it.. I've no heat available at present.. if you think # > it'll budge it I see if I can pick up a gas blowtorch locally. # > Just took some pics , see here: # > http://srigley.powweb.com/picupload/v/old+pics/MX5+stuff/?g2_page=2 # > # > Thanks! # > Steve # > # > # > # > # > On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 5:03 PM, john wrote: # > # > > hard to visualize what you've got, but I've pulled bearings and # > > their races out of hubs with old sockets... you lay the hub # > > or drum or rotor on a piece of wood, face down, the way the race # > > needs to come out... then you put the socket into the other end # > > with just enough hitting the lip... if you can, then wail on it # > > from that side until it comes out... # > > # > > heat and cold work... heat one, cool the other... # > > # > > the other option is to use an old screwdriver and hammer from # > > the backside. # > > # > > probably the safest and sanest option is to take that piece, if # > > you can, to a professional. :) # > > # > > got a picture of what you're trying to do so I can offer a bit # > > more realistic idea? I'm heading out to my shop to fabricate # > > some seat mounts to put the WJ leather seats in my K1500 Blazer. # > > # > > john # > > # > > # > > ----- # > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- # > > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold # > > SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 # > > SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf # > > http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html # > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- # > > # > > # > > On Sat, 6 Sep 2008, Stephen Rigley wrote: # > > # > > # I got the 1/4" pin out of the cross shaft, out came the axle, the seal # > > took # > > # a bit of work but came out with some persuasion. Now.. am stuck with # > the # > > # bearing, even with liberal use of the slide hammer,.. the bearing # > > internals # > > # have long since fallen out, so I'm left with the ... race (that what # > its # > > # called? The external metal ring on the bearing?). Just now my new # > slide # > > # hammer has disintegrated.. the threads on the shaft have allowed the # > nut # > > to # > > # slip.. which has ruined them :-( # > > # Would it be a bad idea to cut out the sides of the bearing with a # > dremel # > > to # > > # ease its grip on the axle tube? Or is it made from something # > uncuttable # > > with # > > # a cutting disk (it seems pretty hard metal)? # > > # # > > # Any inspiration appreciated ;-) # > > # # > > # Steve # > > # # ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 16:55:00 +0100 From: "Stephen Rigley" Subject: Re: xj: Re: Stuck bearing... Had a handy bit of aluminium pipe knocking about, then a buddy called over so I had him hit one end while I held the other up to the bearing and then the seal.. all in now. Just RTV'ing of the diff cover + pumping in of new oil to go.. Thanks for all the help! Steve On Sun, Sep 7, 2008 at 3:35 PM, Jim Blair wrote: > I was about to say you were on the right track. I stuff a wet rag into the > housing just past the race so any bits that fly off from the dremel don't > make > it to the gear oil in the diff. There is a ring on the axle holding the > bearing that can be busted off the same way as removing the race. I've also > used a chisel to shatter them (trail fix) then once the bearing is off, > inspect the area where the seal rides (make sure no nicks!) An old school > way > of protecting the shaft while chiseling is to use electricians tape > temporarily in case you slip. The bearing locking ring is supposed to be > pressed on, but I have used a piece of pipe like a slide hammer to get it > on > (tape has to be removed first so you can get the ring on of course! I'd > probably tape it again to protect it while hammering the ring down) > Nowadays I have a cheapo Harbor Freight press in my garage for doing that > and Ujoints too (I still do most of those with a hammer and socket though) > > > From: "Stephen Rigley" > Subject: Re: xj: Re: Stuck bearing... > > Got it out this morning.. I attacked it with my dremel and it was out in 5 > mins, nice one! > > Now comes the fun of putting the new one in.. I assume it just involves > lots > of pounding/whackery? > Cheers > Steve > > _________________________________________________________________ > Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows > Live. > http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 22:14:08 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: xj: on the road again... in Kamloops BC tonight... topped off the tank at $5.35/gallon!!! heading for Glacier tomorrow, then back down to WA. nothing spectacular in the following pictures... just snapshots along the way... http://wagoneers.com/fotos/2008/09-Sep-07-trip-north-Snohomish-to-KamloopsBC/ tomorrow... I'll break out the good camera. :) only managed to get one WJ seat in the blazer before we took off: http://wagoneers.com/DIESELS/johns-94-Blazer-6.5/WJ-seats-installed/ALL.html ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 20:53:05 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: xj: electric motors giving more thought to the Diesel hybrid in my J10... the front axle is a 3.31 gear set the rear axle is 4.10. I have gears to make either the other... but I'm thinking that keeping it this way might work better for a Mercedes Diesel engine setup, 2wd, to the rear axle... the 4.10s with 235s should permit either the 2.5L or the 3.0L Turbo Diesels to push the 4,100 lb J10 around... and an electric motor might be happy directly connected to the 3.31 front axle... I need some info on the electric motors to see what they'll do rpm-wise, torque-wise, etc. I'm thinking I would use the electric motor in front wheel drive daily to and from work... would have to push 4,500 lbs over hill and dale up to about 45 mph about 10 miles one way. The Mercedes Diesel would be kept stock with 2wd Automatic transmission... mated to the Jeep rear axle 4.10 ratio... I would use it when the batteries were drained or I wanted to cruise a bit faster... also would want to set it up so that the electric motor and the Diesel could be syncronized for LOW speed 4x4 operation... maybe up to 30 mph or so... would be used to get me unstuck or started in snowy conditions... no transfer case would save weight and complexity. I think it's a viable concept, but once I have power band info for the chosen engine(s) I'll know if the gear ratios will work... I've priced out the Mercedes engines and transmissions and it seems within reach... first step is to get SuperDawg back on the road in 2wd and add the electric motor later... if I got really lucky I might be able to find a divorced transfer case and have things setup right off as a 4x4 and then adapte the electric motor to that setup... The electric motor will be direct drive, no transmission... would like it to be used for regenerative braking too... would charge the batteries and save wear and tear on brakes. Of course the J10 would have WJ leather seats. ;) and an XJ console... that combo has proven to work nicely in a Full Size Jeep... Back home from three days on the road... more on that later... need info on electric motors, or Mercedes transfer cases. :) or maybe someone willing to trade an Automatic 300GD for my '83 J10 Stepside and save me the trouble of building another Diesel powered rig. :) john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of xj-digest V1 #2865 *************************