From owner-xj-digest-at-digest.net Wed Aug 26 18:42:36 2009 From: xj-digest xj-digest Thursday, August 27 2009 Volume 01 : Number 3065 Forum for Discussion of XJ cherokees and wagoneers Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: xj: RE: fsj: torque converters xj: tools and pictures XJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeep/xj/ Send submissions to xj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to xj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to xj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 02:00:32 -0700 From: Jim Blair Subject: xj: RE: fsj: torque converters The other thing to watch out for is the power input vs stall speed. A higher input of power will push the stall speed higher for a given converter. I did a 4 cyl converter in a Chev behind a V8 and the stall speed went from 2500 (4 cyl) to 3500 with the V8 (it gradually got higher as the fins in the converter got bent from the extra back pressure until the motor was redlining and just barely moving) The lockup converter set up may not be drilled into the case you are using. If the GW trans has a lockup valvebody, then you can see where the extra holes were drilled for the fluid to pass through. Written laws are like spiders' webs, and will like them only Entangle and hold the poor and weak, while the rich and powerful will easily break through them ANACHARSIS Scythian philosopher (fl. 600 BC) > Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 22:11:52 -0700 > From: dieseljohn-at-comcast.net > To: > Subject: fsj: torque converters > > started looking at torque converter info for the 727 that will be used behind the SD33T. > > it appears that the only variable on a Torque Converter is the stall speed... several > websites say to find the peak torque and go with a stall speed about 500 rpm or so lower. > > The AMC 360 V8 and the SD33T appear to be pretty close in their torque curves so I'm thinking > that the torque converter out of a Grand Wagoneer should be fine for the SD33T setup, and > I'll get a lockup feature as well. I will use the guts from the GW instead of the scout 727. > > Stall speed is somewhat confusing... copied some of the general guidelines below. > > Was reading up on how a lockup feature works... > Jeeps had these, but there wasn't any noticeable improvement in economy. :) One > article cited a 65% improvement in economy at speed... :) > > > here's a few links that might be of interest. > > > http://www.bankspower.com/techarticles/show/10-Understanding-Stall-Speed > > http://rodcustom.automotive.com/79866/0808rc-torque-converters/index.html > > http://www.protorque.com/techi/ti_faq.htm > > http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/0808rc_torque_converters/ind ex.html > > (very interesting details on the 727): > > http://books.google.com/books?id=IjnczMjW46QC&pg=PA147&lpg=PA147&dq=Torquefli te+727++torque+converter&source=bl&ots=1nxsSwXlZJ&sig=sQR7KHNN-nPsG8dUeWqnRv6 - -v2c&hl=en&ei=v9KMSpjdBYeEswOvg5XdCQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10# v=onepage&q=Torqueflite%20727%20%20torque%20converter&f=false > > pricing: > http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=199353 > http://www.atlanticspeed.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=5794&idcate gory=0#details > > > Some general guidelines for selecting a converter: > http://www.hardtail.com/techtips/selectingconverter.html > * According to B&M, the stall speed should be rated at about 500-750 RPM under > your engine's peak torque RPM. If you don't know this figure, be conservative in your > estimate. You don't want to end up with a converter that has too high of a stall speed. > Don't be too conservative, though - it is possible to get a converter with too low of a > stall speed, which will have roughly the same effect as too high of a stall speed. > * Have a good idea of your vehicle's weight. Remember, lighter vehicles will lower the > rated stall speed; heavier vehicles will have the opposite effect. > * High stall converters generate a lot of extra heat. The installation of an external > transmission cooler is mandatory with a higher than stock stall speed converter. > Actually, you should have one in there anyway. Heat is the number one killer of > transmissions - 85% of all trannies die because of inadequate cooling. > > > Also, using AMSOIL Synthetic ATF has been shown to lower Auto Trans temperatures more than 50 Degrees! > I always add a trans cooler and switch to Amsoil atf... sometimes I'll add an oil filter in line. > One local tow truck outfit kept burning up Automatics... switched to Amsoil and fixed the problem. > They claim it lowered the temp on their transmissions by 75 degrees. > > > john > > ----- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://creationwiki.org > http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ _________________________________________________________________ With Windows Live, you can organize, edit, and share your photos. http://www.windowslive.com/Desktop/PhotoGallery ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 18:42:00 -0700 (PDT) From: diesel john Subject: xj: tools and pictures projects on hold this week... daughter's wedding is on Saturday... but they leave me unsupervised with a camera from time to time... put the micro lens on my camera... harrassed bugs yesterday :) some recent fotos: http://fotomeister.us/fotos/2009/08-Aug-25-closeup-bees-n-bugs/ALL.html MLC: http://fotomeister.us/fotos/2009/08-Aug-26-jeeps.jpg http://fotomeister.us/fotos/2009/08-Aug-25-garden-n-flowers/ALL.html http://fotomeister.us/fotos/2009/08-Aug-25-Seattle-Bellevue-Evt-Mukilteo/ALL.html http://fotomeister.us/fotos/2009/08-Aug-24-babybird/ALL.html http://fotomeister.us/fotos/2009/08-Aug-09-Wasps-bees-n-flowers/ALL.html I'm sure we've all seen this before... "Common Tools Explained" To the unitiated, the workshop can be an intimidating place, full of tools you may not know what to do with. To help, here's a helpful explanation of common tools and their uses. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted vertical stabilizer which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned cleco calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh sh*t!" ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminium sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need. ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://creationwiki.org http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ End of xj-digest V1 #3065 *************************