From owner-xj-digest-at-digest.net Wed Dec 14 20:26:00 2011 From: xj-digest To: xj-digest-at-digest.net Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2011 04:26:32 +0000 Subject: xj-digest V1 #3339 xj-digest Thursday, December 15 2011 Volume 01 : Number 3339 Forum for Discussion of XJ cherokees and wagoneers Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Fw: xj: 97 rear hatch - method 4 xj: a random automotive quiz - update xj: and the answer is... Re: xj: Fleet update. Re: xj: Fleet update. xj: test drove a KJ with a CRD XJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeep/xj/ Send submissions to xj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to xj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to xj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2011 13:03:56 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Fw: xj: 97 rear hatch - method 4 I think method 4 will work... stripping other methods (tried to do this from the blackberry without success...) ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 TRSTGZS http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ - ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2011 20:02:38 +0000 Subject: Fw: xj: 97 rear hatch This method holds the most promise as there is a trailer hitch. I didn't know about the 2 side screws or the 10 pop-in fasteners. With this info we could pull the plastic cover back far enough to reach in an open the latch. I was pretty close the first time, but didn't want to break the cover. Know I know it can be pulled away from the rear window. We also attempted this in the dark. :) Tom, you should be able to do this, and if you have trouble reaching in try to pull a little more on the right side so if the plastic breaks or you can tear it off the screw any damage will be hidden by the spare on that side. Or you can get mark to help, his arms are long and skinnier than either of ours. :) This should work: Method Four: If rear hatch is stuck closed, sit in the cargo area and remove the plastic trim cover on the inside of the rear hatch to access and adjust/repair the latch mechanism. If hatch is unable to be closed remove the plastic trim with hatch raised. The plastic cover on the inside of the rear hatch is attached with four Phillips #2 screws along the inside top and 4 more along the sides (2 each side) and approximately 10 snap fasteners spaced around the inside. The 4 screws at inside top are accessible from inside the vehicle, the 2 screws on either side are not accessible when the hatch is closed. To remove the plastic cover: (1) Remove the 4 screws at the top. (2) Along the lower edge of the rear window, using your fingers, gently pry the edge of the plastic cover away until the 4 snap fasteners pop free along the lower edge of the rear window. You will have to pull the plastic about 3 inches from the window before the fasteners release. (3) This will allow you to pry the plastic cover open far enough use a flashlight and examine the latch mechanism. (4) Reach in and down and manually pull the latch lift bar up to release the latch and open the hatch. Once the hatch is open you can remove the side screws, pry the rest of the snap fasteners free and completely remove of the plastic trim cover on many Cherokees. 1997 thru 2001 Cherokees have an inner hatch grab handle that requires a T30 Torx socket wrench bit to remove. Pry the little rectangular cover off of each end of the grab handle. Use the T30 Torx bit to remove two screws that secure the handle. Once the handle is removed the tailgate plastic trim panel can be fully removed. Now that you have the hatch open, the plastic trim removed, and can access the working parts, lightly lubricate the hatch handle mechanism and the locking mechanism with some Lithium grease. Inspect both mechanisms for misadjusted or loose connections. Rod connecting latch and handle can be adjusted at this time. Mark where the threaded end of the rod connects to the metal arm moved by the handle. Unclip the retaining clip that attaches the end of the threaded rod to the mechanism. Use a needle nose pliers to pull it out. Now reattach such that the rod has less play, and clip the retaining clip back in place. Apply a small amount of spray lubricant on the external parts of the latch. Finally, test the tailgate for proper function and reinstall the plastic trim panel and any other parts that were removed. __john_at_http://wagoneers.com__ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2011 13:15:54 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: xj: a random automotive quiz - update a couple notes, the temp is in C/Metric... (the problem is common, but my friend isn't in the states) a few have nailed it right off... bravo... thanx for not going on the list with the correct answer, this is a good brain teaser that gets all of us thinking about these sorts of things... which should result in reduced repair costs by shops/dealerships and mechanics that will play guessing games with YOUR money... (remember, that's why these lists were started... to help folks avoid being ripped off and to share common knowledge) anyway, others are close... some very close... food for thought... if the fuel filter is clogged or the fuel pump failing, how would that result in a lean condition? reduction of available fuel results in loss of power and available energy... the timing and fuel distribution should not be modified, except maybe with a carb rig... a fuel injected system would just lose power, not run lean... same thing with a clogged air filter... loss of air would result in a rich condition, but the feedback systems on a newer (circa mid-80s and up) would adapt to this... and if an ignition module or coil were failing how could that cause a lean condition as usually they produce less spark and power and things tend to go rich that way... good thinking nonetheles... I think those of you that nailed it out of the box have experienced it... like I have... not a fun experience, I mean when I stomp that go pedal, I want to go... :) will post the answer later this evening... heading out shortly to look at a potential Jeep/Frankenstein project this afternoon... :) get the popcorn ready... :) and yes, long term it will involve another Diesel... john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold 1983 J10 - 2X / 1987 300d / 2003 Jetta TDI / ?????? what's next? :) http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 TRSTGZS http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1. Initial startup is fine, car runs perfectly. 2. After between 10 and 30 minutes the car becomes sluggish, the more you press the go pedal the slower it goes. 3. Stop the car leave it for ten minutes and the story starts over. 4. Temp is in the high range, pushing to 95 to 100 on the gauge. No error codes come up....nothing, yet the o2 sensor was replaced, sender unit to the thermo fan was replaced, thermostat replaced, clutch fan replaced, none of this work was done by me obviously, I know what the issue is, the poor owner is out of pocket over a grand my charges will be less then $200.00 inc labor. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2011 21:31:53 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: xj: and the answer is... the catalytic converter... the problem was real, the names and locations were changed to obscure that it was terry from australia... ;) congrats to those that figured it out... when a catalytic converter clogs up it causes excessive restriction and the exhaust gases back up into the cylinders depriving them of the natural cooling of fresh fuel coming in... you stand on it and it just won't go... and gets hotter... you let it sit a bit, it vents, the cat cools and you can go again for a little bit... I've had fuel filters clog, you just loose power... can't go, but the engine doesn't get hot... I've clogged air filters, on a fuel injected system you just lose power, with a carb you run rich and get horrible mileage... failing ignition module or bad coil will usually result in a loss of power, typically at higher rpms... but again, won't heat things up. hope you thought that was fun... It was interesting to see what some of you came up with. terry did a good job of defining the problem, that's why I decided to share it as a quiz... you can take the teacher out of the classroom... ;) john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 TRSTGZS http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2011 23:55:55 -0800 From: ernest breakfield Subject: Re: xj: Fleet update. 51.62935. cheers! e On 10/Dec/11 17:12, john wrote: > 1st question: what is 70 NM in ft lbs? Most of the rear suspension links on my 87 300D called that out. Need to retighten everything after driving it for a while. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2011 00:07:17 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: xj: Fleet update. I thought it was 42. oh, wait, the torque setting, thought you were talking about the answer to the universe... ;) 52 ft lbs doesn't seem like a lot, well, when you're using wrenches I guess it is... :) thanx john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 TRSTGZS http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Sun, 11 Dec 2011, ernest breakfield wrote: # 51.62935. # # # cheers! # e # # On 10/Dec/11 17:12, john wrote: # > 1st question: what is 70 NM in ft lbs? Most of the rear suspension links on my 87 300D called that out. Need to retighten everything after driving it for a while. # ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2011 20:26:11 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: xj: test drove a KJ with a CRD in the interest of examing all combinations of fleet satisfaction... I test drove a 2006 KJ (Liberty) with the 2.8L CRD today. http://wagoneers.com/JEEPS/KJ/2006-CRD/ALL.html it had 106,000 miles, ran well, looked pretty good, drove nicely, except for a vibration... I figured out that the driver's side motor mount was loose/broken - note the engine cover. Also noticed a vibration at 40-45mph... suspect a tranmission mount or missing bolt on driveshaft flange, hard to tell in my picture. They were asking about a grand below retail NADA, price seemed fair until you figure the cost of the TIMING BELT they don't believe they have... in fact the head mechanic at the Jeep dealer that does their service told the guy flat out it was a timing chain... they're about 6,000 miles overdue, and someone will find out that the 2.8L VM Motori Diesel, with a timing belt, is an interference motor with a relatively nice feature... it will break the cam followers off on top if the timing belt breaks instead of bending valves or rods... how creative of the Italians to do that... bravisimo! I actually liked the KJ CRD, it drove nicely. Had way more power than my '85 XJ with the 2.1L Turbo Diesel from Renault. Overall as the prices come down on the Liberty CRDs I will start to watch for a good one. It has an excellent 5 speed transmission, a 545RFE - it's the same trans used in the 4.7L V8 WJs with an extra gear. This one had a 242 selectrac transfer case... it was the base model, but was still nice. The KJ is still a horrid example of a Jeep, but with a Diesel... ;) I've also eliminated the idea of a Wranger YJ/TJ FrankenDiesel project... I think the third try at closing the driver's door of a TJ with me in it was sufficient information... :) Any XJs that are still nice out there deserve better than me stuffing a Mercedes Diesel into them. A Cummins into an SJ is a good idea, if it comes with ear plugs... :) So, I'm eagerly awaiting completion of Superdawg with the Nissan SD33T/rv TF727/np208/3.54 gears... will use the '83 J10 long box until as our 4x4 and utility... Maybe in a few years I'll look for a WK with a Diesel. I've reclaimed my '87 300D as my daily driver and got the garage... my wife is happy with the 2002 Jetta TDI with a new automatic that seems to like to hold shifts longer than it should, but we've been told it needs to learn how to shift again... aren't computer controlled devices interesting? I fear going back to aamco... so I'll call another shop and ask what we can do to teach it to shift earlier... And I'm going to avoid looking at craigslist/autotrader/used car lots and so on... y'all can put the popcorn away now. :) ----- final score: '87 300D / '02 Jetta TDI / '83 J10 x2 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 TRSTGZS http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ End of xj-digest V1 #3339 *************************