From dave kamp Mon Jun 28 10:03:12 1999
Okay, since everyone is asking...
I'm working on a COMPLETE description (in PDF format, with pictures)
but here's the short form:
Two things control AW4 shifting:
1) Shift lever (lever position controls tranny valves mechanically)
2) Transmission Control Unit
The shift lever makes a very positive move in control... only weak point
being there is no separate position for 1-2... they're combined. Position
1-2 holds in 1, provided there is no TCU connected. If you have a TCU
connected, you'll get a 1-2 upshift at about 4800rpm.
The shift lever does do one thing that the TCU cannot accomplish-
ENFORCING compression braking via transmission's internal overrunning
clutches and sprags.
Other than this, all other transmission controls are performed by the TCU.
TCU monitors throttle position, ground speed, and shift lever position
(switches in the console) to select gears appropriately. It also monitors
position of the POWER/COMFORT switch to change upshift and downshift points
and TCU lock parameters.
The TCU's outputs are very simple- three wires. One for Tranny Solenoid 1,
one for Tranny Solenoid 2, and one for Tranny Solenoid 3.
Solenoids 1 and 2 (abbreviated SOL1 and SOL2) perform ratio selection as
follows:
SOL1 SOL2
1st 1 0
2nd 1 1
3rd 0 1
OD 0 0
Where 1= ON, and 0= OFF.
Make a switch that will give these outputs, and you'll have a 1-2-3-OD stick
shift which needs no clutch.
SOL 3 is very simple. Put power to it, and the Torque Converter will lock.
About operation:
The ratio selection is very straightforward-
If you disconnect the TCU, and connect a switchbox, put your CONSOLE LEVER
in D, and you'll have ABSOLUTE control over which ratio is selected via the
control switch. Your switchbox is the ONLY thing that determines gear
selection at that point. When you want 2nd, pull the stick to the "2"
position, etc. You can shift it MUCH quicker than the auto system did, as
there is a latency period included in the TCU's programming. Downshifting
is instantanious, and when deuling with traffic, very impressive.
Upshifting still has some latency, as the transmission's hydraulic circuits
have control orfices, etc., to prevent double-engagement and internal
breakage. These buffers (sometimes referred to as accumulators) also
provide 'cushioning' for servos, to prevent harsh shifting.
If, while using a switchbox, you move the console lever from D into some
other gear, the transmission will respond directly to the console lever, as
the lever acts directly on shift control valves, overriding solenoid
functionality.
If, while using the switchbox, you make a downshift (i.e. OD-3rd or
3rd-2nd), you'll find that there's a decent amount of compression braking
available, however, you'll find that pulling the console lever awards MORE
compression braking. This is because the console lever also acts upon the
tranny's overrun sprag operation... in english, that means it prevents the
tranny from going into it's idea of a 'freewheeling coast mode'. Using the
switchbox, the transmission will allow a partial freewheel action, again,
the reason here has to do with TCU programming and the possibility of what
happens when/if a TCU fails.
The Torque Converter Lock:
Solenoid 3 is unique, in that it only controls TC lock functions. Being
able to lock up a torque converter awards you with improvements in fuel
mileage, a cooler-running transmission, and less cabin noise. It's like
having one more gear (a friend of mine is convinced that I've got a 5-speed
automatic).
Although it's possible to lock the TC in EVERY ratio, it really only works
consistantly in 2,3,and OD. Reason for locking it in OD is obvious- you're
toolin' down the highway. Locking it in 3rd is nice when you're in town and
rolling through a flat 40mph zone with no traffic... keeps the RPMs down,
and keeps them loud pipes from waking the neighborhood pets. Locking it in
2nd is handy for maneuvering down gravel byways and dirt roads, when you're
rolling along at 20mph and don't like lugging the engine in 3rd. Locking it
in 1st is pretty much worthless, and not too good for the TC.
In some instances, I've forgotten to unlock the TC when coming to a stop.
It downshifts just fine... feels alot like doing a downshift with a stick...
firm, not slushy. When you come to a stop, either the TC unlocks itself (by
nature of how the hydraulic plumbing works) or it bangs a bit, then stalls
the motor... usually I flick the switch off before anything happens.
Putting too much foot into the throttle with the TC locked will give you a
quick wake-up call... the TC lock is not intended to handle full engine
torque (remember where your peak torque occurs- fairly low...) and it'll
give you a soft jolt if you forget to unlock before feeding too much fuel.
Mine has given me a warning only a few times... and only when going slow,
and giving it more than 1/2 throttle. It handles the lazy 'lugging' around
town just fine... just don't climb anything steep. Besides, the torque
converter is your friend- it multiplies torque output in exchange for
higher engine RPM... so only lock up when you know you don't need much oomph.
One thing I will tell you about TC lock- The TCU is programmed to force TC
lockup when engine RPMS are above a certain point (?dunno yet?), AND you're
at Wide Open Throttle. Why? Easy: top speed. The AW4's TC has a very
HIGH stall speed (translates to high torque multiplication factor, and
higher RPM out-of-the-hole)... if you allow 2400rpm of stall, that means the
transmission's input shaft speed will be quite a few RPMs lower than
crankshaft speed when you're under one of those MACK-3 speed runs. At WOT,
you're cooking down the highway above 90, and the torque multiplication
factor really isn't required... you need more tranny RPMs.
Remember how I said the TC lockup mechanism wouldn't handle full engine
torque? Well, when you're screaming down the highway at WOT, engine RPMs
are usually well above the engine's peak torque point... it's not developing
peak TORQUE (although it may be generating peak HP). Locking the TC here
doesn't put it in jepoardy, but it does eliminate slippage that may be
costing you MPH.
And yeah- I do remember HEATHKIT... I've got several... a VHF-1 Seneca 100w
transmitter, an HW-10 Shawnee 6m transciever, some test tools... Believe it
or not, there are still companies that make kits...
Any more questions?
DK :-)
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