Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 15:06:41 -0500 (CDT) From: Moake Brian <iw67-at-jove.acs.unt.edu> Subject: North Tx Jeeps for sale... I found these at http://cityview.com/dallas/class/sunday/b06.shtml 80 Wagoneer, camo, great shape, $2500. 972-390-1957 84 Grand Wagoneer, 4x4, AC $2000/obo. 972-271-9498 86 Grand Wagoneer, 4x4, $3000, 972/475-6149 89 Gr Wagoneer new V8 $8500 817-424-5271 CJ's 74 CJ5, lease ready, rebuilt V6, camo, good tires, $2500. 972-252-8532 75 CJ5, hardtop, warn winch, new paint, $2750. 972-790-1987 or 972-986-3766. 78 CJ5 lift, tires, V8, lockers, fun! $3500. 972-390-1957. 78 CJ5 232- 6, 3spd, hd top, 100K, $3500, 972/222-9640. 84 CJ5, excel mech cond, open to best CASH offer, $3200. 214-369-8226. 84 CJ7 Renegade navy looks great hardtop 31'' tires $4500. 214-350-4101 84 CJ7 new eng & trans 4 cyl, $4K invested, chrome whls, $5300. 972-716-4028 85 CJ7 Laredo 6 cyl 4 spd PS- PB wht/blk excel cond $5895. Day 817-992-4467, 817-280-0549; eve 817-861-8296. 85 CJ- 7 ps/pb, wht w/blk, new paint, carpet & mags Excel cond $5795, 972-596-4051, 214-478-7566 85 CJ7 90K, all new, soft & hard top. 972-412-9363 aft 5 47 Willies JEEP $1200 903-342-5357[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 15:45:59 -0500 From: Paul Boe <boe-at-arcpv.com> Subject: Re: FSJ engineering Jeff Gunn wrote: > > On Apr 30, 2:07pm, john meister wrote: > > Subject: FSJ engineering > > Subject: Full-SizeJeep engineering > > > > There are three engineers in a Full-Size Jeep, an electrical > > engineer, a chemical engineer, and a Microsoft engineer. Suddenly > > the FSJ just stops by the side of the road, and the three engineers > > look at each other wondering what could be wrong. > > > > The electrical engineer suggests stripping down the electronics of > > the FSJ and trying to trace where a fault might have occurred. > > > > The chemical engineer, not knowing much about FSJ's suggests that > > maybe the fuel is becoming emulsified and getting blocked somewhere. > > > > Then, the Microsoft engineer, not knowing much about anything, comes > > up with a suggestion. "Why don't we close all the windows, get > > out, get back in, open the windows again, and maybe it'll work!?" > > > >-- End of excerpt from john meister > > And then a Mechanical Engineer came along and FIXED IT!! ;-) > > Jeff > BSME *********************************************************************** AMEN brother!!!!! Where do you work? Paul Boe Mechanical Design Engineer 74' Cherokee Pauls Valley, OK.[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 14:02:31 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Taller tires??
according to FW mag, 31's will fit the wag/chero only
with minor fender triming!!
Steven A. Kaiser wrote:
>
> Hello all!
>
> I am a new subscriber to the list and have enjoyed reading many of your
> messages. I drive a '76 Cherokee and would like to run larger tires.
> Right now I have 235's but would like to run 31x10.5's. Does anyone know
> if they will fit without mods? My cherokee is not the Chief model so I
> dont have the extra space under the fenders. Any imput is greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Steve
>
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can go, then it's a
Super Wagoneer.
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 14:05:39 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Robert Close
go to this web site and get the service manual for ur year
wag..
>>> for service manuals see http://www.thejeep.com/manual.html
Robert Close wrote:
>
> What would be a good manual to get for the wagoneer? I saw a few
> advertised in JC Whitney's. Any suggestions?
>
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can go, then it's a
Super Wagoneer.
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 14:10:40 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: CA/NV FSJers
i think we in the SW!!
ck1-at-pacbell.net wrote:
>
> Just curious, but CA/AZ/NV are not really in the "Pacific Northwest".
> Is there a Region to cover those areas ??? If not, is an RC needed ?
> .. 1970 Jeep Wagoneer (1414C) V8-350 4WD "Pinecone"
>
> Net-Tamer V 1.08X - Test Drive
>
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can go, then it's a
Super Wagoneer.
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 14:19:36 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Matt SOA!!!!
i should send u my video on the SOA lift i did
on the Super! but with a SOA the wag will be more
tipsy in the corners because of the change in CG. also,
u dont have to 'flip' the rear axle, its already
SOA!!
it might cost 100 labor to weld on the spring pads, not
including the cost of the pads themselves. i rec that u buy new
spring pads frpm conferr off road acc.
with the SOA tho, the articulation is AWSOME!!!!!.
u may need to get longer drivshafts. after the lift is
completed, and with the shafts removed, angle the yokes on the
diffs and the xcase so that the point up n down. then take
two measurements, first, mesure the dist from the top of the
xcase yoke to the top of the diff yoke, i mean where the little
ubolts go thru the yoke!! now do the same for the bottom half of
the two yokes. take thos dimensions to ur local drivshaft
maker or call one up from the 4x4 mags and see what they say.
GypsyLive-at-aol.com wrote:
>
> This is the route im think of taking to fit larger tires, and gain some
> articulation..
>
> Are there anythings I should be aware of ( this will also be my daily driver)
>
> Whats a ballpark figure for the welding required to flip both axles?
>
> I plan to include longer shocks, brake lines, lowered bumpstops ( if necc)
> and possibly dropped pitman arm, any thing Im over looking?
>
> thanks
>
> Matt
>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command
> "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message.
>
>
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can go, then it's a
Super Wagoneer.
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 14:20:34 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Perry Masons GW
a VERY early wag!!!!
Jeff Herbst wrote:
>
> November 14, 1962!
> >
> >>62..the wags did come out till 63!!
> >
> >
>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command
> "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message.
>
>
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can go, then it's a
Super Wagoneer.
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 17:19:21 -0400
From: "Dennis M. \"Doc\" Fariello" <fariello-at-inspace.net>
Subject: I've been at it again...
<excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><excerpt><fontfamily><param>MS
Sans Serif</param><smaller>Thursday, 1 May 1997
Additions - New Pages - 2 pages - total pages 216
Regional - IFSJA Regional Associations - A Whole New Section! Devoted
to the Regional Associations
Tech - Hood Latch Adjustment - "Doc"
Modifications and Additions to Existing Pages
Changed the links on all pages to reflect the new section, the humor
section, and the FAQ section.
Other Notes of Possible Interest
Yes, folks, another site-wide change...
We're going to be sporting an entirely new look for the entire site
shortly, as soon as we can figure out how to get it to work in both IE
and Netscape.
The new look will make it MUCH easier to navigate the site, and should
also improve the performance of the site.
</smaller></fontfamily></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt></excerpt>
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\_____|___|DOC|___|_____/
|\/\/|--------\_/--|\/\/|
______|\/\/|_____________|\/\/|______
Home of the "Bottomless Transfer Case"
_____________________________________
email: fariello-at-inspace.net
http://www.inspace.net/~fariello/fsj
_____________________________________
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 14:22:48 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Spring over Axle
and just like i have done !! :)
GypsyLive-at-aol.com wrote:
> i meant the spring mount in the rear, I was planning to flip it down as Sune
> Collberg
> has done...
>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command
> "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message.
>
>
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can go, then it's a
Super Wagoneer.
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 15:00:23 -0700 From: billy dunn <dunns-at-csra.net> Subject: Re: D20 swap At 01:57 PM 5/1/97 EDT, you wrote: > >>How far are you from SC??? >>>>>> >SE Pa. 60 mi outside of Philthydelphia. > Philly HUH???I see Huked on fonics werkd fer u 2....<ROFLMAO>... I had to say that... >>>I also >>>have a Dual lever d20 from a scout. >>>>>> >The plot thickens > > >>100.00 for it to....Its worth more to those ole Scout people but I look >after the FSJ peepl first!! >>>>> >(collective blush) Are you in a hurry to sell it? I'm in a better position >to buy it JUN 1st after I get back from honeymoon. I also have my buddy >looking out for a 205. He says no problem, but I'm not waiting and letting >the twin stick go if it looks grim up here. He just put a 455/th400/205 combo >in a Suburban and set up the a/c while at it! What condition is it in? (Will >I be buying a rebuild kit in order to use it.) Do you know if it the shift >forks are sold by over and under size to get the correct clearances in those >things? The explodo-pictures look very simple to rebuild... > No hurry,Ive had for a while....Noone ever asks about it so I just hang on to it.As for condition...Well the scout would run with it,I mean I didnt rebuild it or anything,the shifting levers where they are connected need a little work but other than that no biggie.I took it to a friend who runs a Heavy Equipment Welding and reapair shop and he told me that it would be know sweat.Just going to have to heat the levers up and weld up the rods so the levers can ride right in the grooves.Its like a tongue and groove set up.I would put new bushings in the pivot points to keep the levers from moving side to side.I looked at the gears and they are fine. Billy >>Got a 205 lying around? >AHHHhhhhhhhh YEP!!!From a ford to....Its not goin anywhere soon though...I >am putting it in my 80 J10 so I can haul my 79 J10 to the mtns. >>>>> >Won't fly in my QT axled truck anyway. Bottom line here is if you can wait a >couple of weeks, consider it gone. If you can't I will scramble to try to get >the scratch together. However if you can wait, with my wedding it's tight >now. Even if I wind up with a 205, a D20 can't hurt to have lying around. I >then really have my options on what year FSJ I'm gonna build my wife. >Definitely has to be 258 and th400, and if part time I will use the milemarker >kit for fulltime-like capability. (there is alot of mixed driving here in the >winter) >Lessee I'l have a 360, 258, coupla QTs, coupla Jeep th400 carcasses, a D20... >That should about cover it. Wanna trade some stuff for a 360? 4bbl, new >block... > >Brad Feick > >Just give me a shout when you can......I need a 360 like a hole in the head...... BUT I will take a 401.....HAHAHAHAHAHAHA yea right.. > >[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 18:23:21 -0400
From: "Dennis M. \"Doc\" Fariello" <fariello-at-inspace.net>
Subject: oops
If y'all see some stuff missing on the site, don't worry... it'll be back
up shortly.
I discovered some rather amazing boo-boos I'd done sometime in the past,
and am in the process of correcting them. So, for right now, there are no
tech items available. This should be corrected in about a half hour.
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0_| / \ |_o
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||____|_____|_____|____||
\_____|___|DOC|___|_____/
|\/\/|--------\_/--|\/\/|
______|\/\/|_____________|\/\/|______
Home of the "Bottomless Transfer Case"
_____________________________________
email: fariello-at-inspace.net
http://www.inspace.net/~fariello/fsj
_____________________________________
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 18:38:40 -0400
From: "Dennis M. \"Doc\" Fariello" <fariello-at-inspace.net>
Subject: whew... fixed!
Kronk, I hate it when that happens...
It's all fixed now, folks... enjoy!
|
|
| |
| ============= |
0_| / \ |_o
|_|_____----+-----____|_|
|====|=====|=====|====|
||____|_____|_____|____||
\_____|___|DOC|___|_____/
|\/\/|--------\_/--|\/\/|
______|\/\/|_____________|\/\/|______
Home of the "Bottomless Transfer Case"
_____________________________________
email: fariello-at-inspace.net
http://www.inspace.net/~fariello/fsj
_____________________________________
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 18:05:44 -0500 From: "Carlo J. Calica" <calica-at-adj.com> Subject: Re: Taller tires?? Is that with or without any lift?? At 02:02 PM 5/1/97 -0700, you wrote: >according to FW mag, 31's will fit the wag/chero only >with minor fender triming!! > >Steven A. Kaiser wrote: >> >> Hello all! >> >> I am a new subscriber to the list and have enjoyed reading many of your >> messages. I drive a '76 Cherokee and would like to run larger tires. >> Right now I have 235's but would like to run 31x10.5's. Does anyone know >> if they will fit without mods? My cherokee is not the Chief model so I >> dont have the extra space under the fenders. Any imput is greatly >> appreciated. >> >> Steve >> > >-- > Sincerely > > kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go where a > kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can go, then it's a > Super Wagoneer. > > > >--------------------------------------------------- >To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command >"unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > > > - Carlo J. Calica Technical Director http://www.adj.com ADJACENCY: Brand New Media TM tel (415) 487-4510 PGP Fingerprint: E7 60 BE 76 F1 0B 6F B4 D8 81 40 2F 5F 47 E1 FA[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 18:08:37 -0500 From: "Jeff Gunn" <jgunn-at-hou.varco.com> Subject: Re: FSJ engineering On May 1, 3:45pm, Paul Boe wrote: > Subject: Re: FSJ engineering > Jeff Gunn wrote: > > > Jeff > > BSME > *********************************************************************** > AMEN brother!!!!! > > Where do you work? > > Paul Boe > Mechanical Design Engineer > 74' Cherokee > Pauls Valley, OK. > >-- End of excerpt from Paul Boe I work for an oilfield safety and controls equipment manufacturer. I design control systems for a subsea safety system called a blow out preventer. Sits on the ocean floor on a wellhead. We are building a system that allows a driller to drill for oil in 10,000 feet of water, very cutting edge for this industry. It's a hoot! PLCs, fiber optics, and LOTS of stainless steel! Jeff[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 16:33:10 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Carlo!
w/o a lift!!
Carlo J. Calica wrote:
>
> Is that with or without any lift??
>
--
Sincerely
'If a Wagoneer can go where a
kenneth e. wetherall CJ can go, then it's a
kenns-at-concentric.net Super Wagoneer'
[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 18:57:00 -0500 (CDT) From: chrissy saltsgaver <chrissys-at-midwest.net> Subject: Parts book/Decals/windshield for Joe Just walking out the door for the trip to Mecca (Studebakerland-South Bend). Wanted to thank Zack for the parts book. It came today. It's about the same quality as some of the Studebaker manuals which have been reprinted. It is a large binder set thou :) Also wanted to thank Joe for the FSJ decals. Already have one on the wagoneer for the trip north. I'm taking the others with me in case I get into some Jeep lingo while there (a lot of Jeepers were former STudebaker folk). Also, I'm going to be able to free up a little space in the shed by taking a windshield up to Joe in Indy. I've had to leave a safety zone of free space around it to prevent breakage :(. Maybe Joe will be able to proove that front glass can be switched without cutting the rubber seal. Mike Saltsgaver.[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 01 May 97 21:12:11 EDT From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: Re: Parts book/Decals/windshield for Joe Maybe Joe will be able to proove that front glass can be switched without cutting the rubber seal. >>>>> An older dealership told me that since I don't want to spend the $90 on a new gasket, that one could re-use the original one, as it is done all the time. Just what he said... Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 19:36:22 -0700 From: Tom Anhalt <tanhalt-at-earthlink.net> Subject: Motor Mount Bracket Update After I discovered last Saturday that the motor mount bracket on my 258 was broken, I mosied on down to the local Jeep dealer on Monday to see about getting a replacement. I went in and told them what I needed and while the parts guy was looking it up I reminded him "I need the bracket, not the rubber motor mount". He nods his head, looks up the number, and goes off to fetch a part. What does he come back with? The rubber motor mount, of course. I tell him to try again, and this time we get the right number. It's in his computer but they don't have it in stock. No problem, they'll just order it and I can pick it up in 2 days. I finally get back there today, and they tell me that the part has been cancelled. I thought this was odd since they used the 258s in the Grand Wagoneers up until '87. I'm about fed up with these guys overall, anyway, so I got my money back and left. Remembering John's suggestion to try Performance Jeep, I call 1-800-PRO-JEEP (Ya gotta like that number!) and talk to a guy named Mike. I tell him I'm a customer of Meister Distribution and he says "Oh, John? How is ole John doing these days?" Mike is very helpful, and I give him the part number and he places the order. When I tell him where to ship it, he says "You must have met him over the internet, huh?" I also asked him what the possibility was of it being a cancelled part number and he looks up how long it was used and he says "highly unlikely". Well, since they didn't have it in stock either, I guess we'll see for sure now. Overall, it was a much different experience than dealing with the local yahoos. Thanks, John. Tom Anhalt[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 01 May 97 21:26:47 EDT From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: Re: HEY RUSS & Brad Hey Brad, Look, someone else from PA. This is turning into a regular club. Brad, your house sound like middle ground? >>>>> You sound like Tonto. The convergance in Stony Creek Pa. could be scary. Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 01 May 97 21:35:37 EDT From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: Re: D20 swap No hurry,Ive had for a while....Noone ever asks about it so I just hang on to it. >>>>> Well *I'm* askin'! shifting levers where they are connected need a little work >>>> Meaning what. they are a little thin or worn and have to be welded and ground to shape? I would put new bushings in the pivot points to keep the levers from moving side to side.I looked at the gears and they are fine. >>>>> Sounds like I gotta have it. Are the bushings available? Have you seen PTOs for those things? Just give me a shout when you can......I need a 360 like a hole in the head...... >>> or maybe you need one to want one BUT I will take a 401.....HAHAHAHAHAHAHA yea right.. >>> OH did I say 360? Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 23:14:18 -0500 From: Jeff Herbst <JeffHerbst-at-electrosys.com> Subject: RE: Taller tires?? >>I am a new subscriber to the list and have enjoyed reading many of your >>messages. I drive a '76 Cherokee and would like to run larger tires. >>Right now I have 235's but would like to run 31x10.5's. Does anyone know >>if they will fit without mods? My cherokee is not the Chief model so I >>dont have the extra space under the fenders. Any imput is greatly >>appreciated. > Steve, I run 30x9.50x15 on my stock (no lift) '82 Wagoneer, I don't think that mine would go any larger without a lift. The 30x9.50x15 seem to be a perfect size, fill the wheel wells great. Jeff Herbst 1982 Wagoneer Limited >Texas[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 23:23:06 -0500 From: Jeff Herbst <JeffHerbst-at-electrosys.com> Subject: RE: Hood Lining & Shocks >>OK, I just picked up my hood lining. What is the consensus for adhesive: >>Liquid nails? Do you have to take the hood off to put it on? > Well I don't know what the consensus is but, 2 weeks running and the liquid nails is holding fine, thank you. I just applide the stuff to the insulation, pressed to to the hood and presto! No hood removal, no muss, no fuss. The side pieces pretty much hold themselves in anyway, but I used liquid nails on them anyway. I've had 2 days of rain, but NO broken radiator or hoses, so I don't know about how it holds to wet insulator. Just in case I've replaced the heater hoses 'cause they looked suspect! Jeff Herbst 1982 Wagoneer Limited >Texas[Back to Top]
Date: 02 May 97 00:32:35 EDT From: "DOROTHY I. STREICH" <104346.766-at-CompuServe.COM> Subject: Re: Regional Coordinators It was written: >Subject: Re: Regional Coordiantors List >coordinate? > >can ya chew gum and operate the xfr case lever at the same >time? Darn QT's have no levers (First mistake jeep ever made) >can ya find the trail two outta three times? It's usually in my rearvew mirror >have ya ever pulled another vehicle outta a stuck situation? Yeah, but it was with a GMC >do ya have kids (esp. teenagers)? I am one, if you don't like that talk to my parents, I had no controll over it. >have ya ever seen a dog? I hear her more than I see her >do ya fog a mirror when ya breathe? I fog the whole dang truck >do ya know how to spel FSJ? anone who reeeds mi postss nows i kant spul, er, speel, I mean spuowl, anyoneway you'n gots du point >have ya ever seen a functionin' tailgate winder on an FSJ? Yup, I got 2 of them <HeHeHeHeeHee> >If you answered YES to any of the above questions, then ya >may just be the person we is lookin' fer. Guess i passed, I hope :>- >to coordinrate, ya gotta be able to answer yer email, own, or >plan to own an FSJ and speak english well enough to order a 55 >cent Big Mac at the palace of Golden Arches... IPASSED IPASSED IPASSED IPASSED !!!! Ihope ;)> Karl Streich, Someone from Cali 79 Cherokee 83 Wag Lookin at a 77 RAM to tow with, Anyoue want to loan me a grand?[Back to Top]
Date: 02 May 97 00:32:39 EDT From: "DOROTHY I. STREICH" <104346.766-at-CompuServe.COM> Subject: Re: Legacy of the FSJ......correction > > >I looked through my Jeep Bible last night, and I have to give the nod to > > >the Willys wagon as the first SUV regardless of whether they called it > > >an SUV at the time. Remember that when the FSJ came out, the term SUV > > >didn't exists. > > >Gord > > > > Gord, don't forget the Jeepster. > > > > Regards, > > Did it pre-date the Wagon? > Besides, I don't think the Jeepster can qualify as a SUV as it was more > of a car (if I remember corectly). > > Gord 0) Also, the early series of Jeepsters were 2 wheel drive. Not so good 0) off-road. 0) Landen Schooler - Jeepsters were produced from '49 to '51, with a few in '52 - Jeepsters were convertables, but not wagons - The jeepsters were 2wd, but very good offroad. My dad has a '49 and It will go almost anywhere. - On a final note, SUV's are not 4*4 wagons, they are a cross between a sports car and a utility vehicle. The early Jeep wagons handled teribly and weren't so hot on their 0-60 times, however a properly equipt FSJ will eat most sedans of its time. Many people confuse SUV's with luxery wagons, so while the Willys wagon is a great utility vehicle it plows into the corners, very bad sports car maners. Karl Streich[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 22:23:58 +0000 From: "john meister" <john-at-> Subject: Old Blue up and running... New alternator is in. Finally checked his oil level, he's only down a half a quart after the towing trip at high speeds AND for several weeks before hand, THAT MEANS I CAN PUT SYNTHETIC BACK IN THE MOTOR!!!! Yehaw! I'll be back up to 14mpg like I was when I first got him... Gonna have the new hi-flow hi-perf cat and Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler put on tomorrow... The next thing is the brush guard and the axle ratios... I may be able to build a web site in exchange for the axles... I'm gonna do that before the swap to see what kind of improvements I can get. Besides the 4.0L isn't ready yet. Good stuff. Oh yeah, have two offers right now and a third possibly coming... Decide tomorrow morning... I'm leaning toward the job in Issaquah as an HP System Admin... BTW, Thanx Ron Strouss for the lead, it's sure making it difficult to decide, those are good folks too... turns out the owner's brother is a friend of mine at a local jeep dealer too... Small world, eh? I'm heading into town to gas up Old Blue, will take him to the Men's Prayer Breakfast tomorrow morning down in Bellevue and then to get his exhaust system done... later, john ******************************************************** john-at- http://www. ORC-FSJ = http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj Snohomish, WA USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold JEEPS:(Wagoneer Limited 81 SJ & 88 xj)and Cherokee 77 SJ no Jesus = no peace <-> know Jesus = know peace **********************************************************[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 01 May 97 23:27:15 -0700 From: bks-at-co.intel.com Subject: Not A CJ SuperKen, I was looking at entry 18 again tonight, and I'm impressed! I noticed your license plate! Its so cool, even my wife liked it! The little blurb doesn't say what you run for a transmission or t-case. My family had a 68 when I was a teenager, but it wasn't a super. (I took my drivers test in it!) I didn't realize the woodgrain siding was available as far back as 67. What differences did the super have? -brad (thinkin he may need an older wagoneer...)[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 07:43:32 -0500
From: brewer-at-thaad.tecmas.com (John Brewer)
Subject: Leak Prevention Update (long but informative)
Well it's been about three months since I re-did the lining on the inside
of my front passenger door and no leaks yet. And in Alabama in the spring,
we get some serious rainfall- not that long lasting but very very high
short term (24hrs or so) volume. The kind of rain that really gets things
pouring inside the car.
*Note: The following terms apply below-
Outside = After removing the door panel, this is the surface you see.
Inside = The opposite side of the outside surface, inside the door itself.
What I did was remove *all* the plastic on the outside of the door. Even
the tape-like stuff that was covering the hinge bolts ('89 GW) one of which
had been leaking. Then I cleaned the outside metal with mineral spirits-
and for good measure- "Prep-Sol", a pre-painting cleaner (make sure your
solvent doesn't remove paint!). I then covered, from the outside, the
hinge bolt access holes (if you've had the door panel off you know what I
mean) and all the small holes with 2" aluminum tape; also called 100mph
tape. I really rubbed hard on the edges to be sure I'd get a good seal.
Occasionally you'll have to overlap for more width.
I made little hoods or umbrellas for the holes where the door-pulls screw
in (2) and put them on the inside of the door since I couldn't cover them
without punching holes in them with the screws. I cut a piece of plastic
off the original sheet to shield the electric window switches- basically
looked the same as original but not connected to the rest of the plastic.
This left three large holes: The access hole to the door lock area, the
access hole beneath that, and the very large hole at the bottom of the door
where the speaker goes. For the two smaller holes, I cut a plastic sheet a
tiny bit smaller than the hole itself, trial-and-error and cut again. I
then lined the plastic with 100mph tape and used it to cover the holes on
the outside. This completely sealed these holes yet still allowed for
visual inspection without removal. I actually did one edge at a time and
was surprised how tight the plastic became.
For the bottom hole, about 6" high and 14" long, none of the above methods
would work. What I did then, was to cut a sheet of plastic (from the
original, though any quality plastic sheeting would work) a good bit higher
and a little longer with the same rough shape as the opening. Then with
the speaker removed, I taped the entire length of the top of the plastic
sheet just above the opening on the outside. I then pushed the lower part
of the plastic inside the door so that any drips of water would be shielded
from the speaker and door panel. I then carefully trimmed and taped so the
whole thing was water tight and secure around the top. I left the bottom
and most of the sides free so it acts like an umbrella. The entire
operation took about 2 1/2 hours and that included removing the old stuff,
cleaning the door, figuring things out, and with my one and-a-half, three,
and four year old boys "helping". I think I could do the other front door
in an hour or so with less help though it wouldn't be as much fun.
I ended up with a very water resistant package that seems to be holding up.
This design also has a DISTINCT advantage over the original (besides the
fact that it works). It allows you to work on the inside of the door
without having to remove, and then discard and replace that large,
difficult to work with, plastic sheet! I can grease my window track by
removing *only* the door panel and pushing the lower shield aside. I can
get to my door lock and latch area by removing only one or two, small,
easily replaceable cover. All the other holes are basically useless unless
you're removing the works. It really makes maintenance and inspection on
doors, and the electrical connections within them, much easier to perform
and hence- much harder to put off. I think I'll be doing my other doors
soon since the locks need maintenance anyway.
John Brewer
"Any man who would trade liberty for security deserves neither."
Benjamin Franklin
[Back to Top]Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 08:29:19 -0500 From: brewer-at-thaad.tecmas.com (John Brewer) Subject: More leak info. I decided to put this in another message since that other one was getting soooo long. I discovered the source of some additional leaks the other day. I have been getting water, standing several inches deep sometimes, in the inside of both my rear fender wells- well is right! Some time ago, I dug away the body filler in the lower front corner so the water could drain out but it had obviously become plugged. In the past I had always looked for leaks at joints; windows, tail lights, running lights, gas filler hole, tail gate, etc., and had plugged the small ones I had found with plumbers putty (don't laugh it works!). I guess this must have helped but after a heavy rain it would still be quite wet. The other day, looking around again, I noticed a small hole in a sheet metal joint on the outside of the vehicle! It is the corner that juts out and is next to the tailgate. Putting my mouth on it I can blow a very steady stream right into the fender well area. Very obviously it has leaked since *new*, occurs on both sides, and is due solely to shoddy workanship. I have noticed that many seams on my FSJ are very poorly sealed and the body filler is just slapped on with no attempt at quality control whatsoever. Probably some Union flunky doing a crummy job because he is unfirable, unpunishable, and un-competent. I apologize if this offends anybody but it *is* the case. I suppose I'll fix it since I give a damn about quality. You've gotta wonder- is this why FSJs received such poor reviews in Consumer Reports- crappy work like this? This kind of stuff really burns me up. The same kind of crummy work made my front door leak and has caused other problems. With a production line of 29 years, the automobile was clearly engineered very well. For many years it was built very well. The American worker could learn a very valuable lesson from the Japanese! John Brewer "Any man who would trade liberty for security deserves neither." Benjamin Franklin[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 10:05:17 -0400 From: Kevin McConn <kmcconn-at-gte.net> Subject: Service Manual for '79 Just a quick note, I'm new to the list and am really enjoying it. I have a '79 Cherokee (since Dec) and could use some help. I would like to find a service manual for reference. I have the Chilton's Jeep Manual and it leaves alot to be desired. The main problem right now is a loose TC chain (stock Quadra Trac). I'm having trouble locating one locally, any advice?? Kevin McConn '79 Cherokee (Florida)[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 2 May 97 09:23:36 CDT
From: hanstr-at-cimsys01.aud.alcatel.com (Tony Hanson)
Subject: Re: Service Manual for '79
Hi Kevin,
Welcome to the list! A lot of the FSJers
including myself, have had luck with
Turner 4WD Parts in Roswell, Ga.
web page: www.thejeep.com/manual.html
email: thejeep-at-america.net
or 1-800-THE-JEEP (order line)
(770) 992-1181(information)
Maybe if we send them enough business
we could get a IFSJA discount!!! :)
Tony R. Hanson (hanstr-at-cimsys01.aud.alcatel.com)
1964 Wagoneer Copeville, Texas
[Back to Top]Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 07:43:34 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> Subject: Re: Service Manual for '79 At 09:23 02-05-97 CDT, you wrote: >Hi Kevin, > >Welcome to the list! A lot of the FSJers >including myself, have had luck with >Turner 4WD Parts in Roswell, Ga. > >web page: www.thejeep.com/manual.html >email: thejeep-at-america.net > >or 1-800-THE-JEEP (order line) > (770) 992-1181(information) > >Maybe if we send them enough business >we could get a IFSJA discount!!! :) > Tony R. Hanson (hanstr-at-cimsys01.aud.alcatel.com) > 1964 Wagoneer Copeville, Texas Ditto on the Welcome Kevin. Brian's 4WD Parts and Lit is also a good source. He did get a shippment of "original" not repro manuals in recently but I think the 79's are gone already :( Drop him a line at <willysgp-at-aol.com> Regards, -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 10:07:04 -0500 From: "Jeff Gunn" <jgunn-at-hou.varco.com> Subject: Re: 84 G Wag On Apr 30, 5:42pm, Moake Brian wrote: > Subject: 84 G Wag > I found a guy to day that has an 84 that he will either sell whole or > chop (cut the top off) it up for his deer lease. > He said the body is straight, the 4wd was only used 3-4 times. He parked > it 7yr ago while going through a bad divorce and pulled the hoses to keep > it from freezing. He hadn't thought about selling it till I walked in and > asked. He said the engine was fine. > What would it be worth based on this? > Any suggestions/words of wisdom? > > I'm going to try to go and look at it tomorrow (thu). > > I hate the thought of someone ruining a good FSJ for no reason. > >-- End of excerpt from Moake Brian I have owned two vehicles that sat for several years unused before I got them, a '71 Javelin and my '78 Cherokee. I can tell you what is normally required to get an engine running after sitting for a LONG time. First, you need to change the oil and filter and install new spark plugs. You might also do a compression test while you have the plugs out. Inspect the entire ignition system for possible faults. This isn't much of a problem with newer FSJs since they have the "box" so it either works or doesn't. On a points-ignition you would want a basic tune-up kit, points and condenser. If possible, drain all the old gas out of the gas tank and refill with fresh. Check the coolant to make sure it has plenty, and drop in a new battery. At this point you're ready to crank it. Some starting fluid (ether) is helpful at this point. Both the vehicles I had started and ran after this process, although they smoke alot while burning out the old gas from the carb. I wouldn't rev it too much at first, it hasn't run in years and probably needs some time to "loosen up". After you get it running and decide you want to keep it and use it, there's still plenty to do. You will want to replace all the belts, hoses, and vacuum lines. Basically, anything rubber will probably be suspect. I had to replace the brake cylinders, master cylinder, and calipers on both vehicles. The carburetors needed to be rebuilt as well, the gaskets dry up and they get varnishy and don't run well. Electrical components usually fail pretty quickly too, starters and alternators etc. You may need to replace the wheel bearings, they tend to get out of round or something from sitting in one position for too long. A final point that I want to make is that most vehicles that have sat for years were parked because they needed something fixed. On the Jeep I had to replace the fuel pump right away, the Javelin needed headers and exhaust and the ignition had been put together incorrectly. I still find things that previous owners have screwed up (and screw things up myself occasionally ;-) ) In other words be prepared to do some repairs before you go joyriding, but both the Jeep and the Javelin turned out to be good rides after some a little work and a few $$$. Jeff[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 08:10:03 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> Subject: Optima source? Anyone in the PNW area know of a reasonable source for Optima's. I'll be getting two, so cost/shipping is a factor. TIA Regards, -jj ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Joe Schaefer Nordland, WA USA mailto:joes-at-olympus.net ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~[Back to Top]
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 10:47:43 -0500 From: Jeff Herbst <JeffHerbst-at-electrosys.com> Subject: RE: Carb Blow-by-Blow > >>Hey jeff, thanks a million. Your description makes it sound >>easy enough for a non-mechanic like myself to try it. I have a couple >>questions. Since I am installing a used edelbrock I do not have >>the diagram of the new throttle bracket. Could you mail me a >>copy of that? I'll trade you a couple fsj decals for that info :-) Sure, Do you have a Fax? >>So you did use the rubber front and rear gaskets? A couple guys said >>(to me anyway) to *not* use it, simply use rtv or some other sealer. >>They claim the rubber will leak. (I have no idea) Yes, I used the NEW rubber gaskets that was in the gasket set. The Edelbrock instructions also said to use RTV, but I took a chance. No leaks yet. I think that as long as you set the manifold down pretty close to the correct spot and don't have to slide it around, the rubber gaskets should work better. They are pretty thick and have groves to fit around the block. >Your article answered a couple other questions I had; >1. do you have to remove valve covers? >2. do you have to remove the distributor? 1-No 2-No, just remove the coil wire when you take the coil off. The Distributor sits pretty far forward and does not get in the way. >I plan to install new lifters and pushrods and rocker arms >when I do mine. My valve train is noisey! My engine was rebuilt about 2 weeks before the swap, so my lifters are new >Oh, one last question, i wonder where I can find those pins you >mentioned for putting the pan on bottom of manifold? Good question, mine came with the manifold. They are about 1/3" long and have a spiral cut down the side, the top looks like a rivet. Might call Edelbrock and see if they have some. I'll go home tonight and look up the description from the installation sheet and maybe you can get some from a hardware store if the description is good enough. >[Back to Top]
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