Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 09:09:22 -0600 (MDT)
From: Brian Riggs <Brian.Riggs-at-genetics.utah.edu>
Subject: Re: Points Replacement
On Tue, 13 May 1997, chrissy saltsgaver wrote:
> That's why I belong to the Studebaker Driver's Club. The emphasis is on
> "drivers"! We do have concours judging and there is some bickering, but
> most of us put more value on the amount of bugs collected from a long
> distance participant rather than if a certain bolt was plated or painted.
>
> Although I've never been to one, I'd think a "jeep-in" would score points
> for the most boulder induced dents or xfer case shrapnel :)
>
> Mike Saltsgaver.
If we Judge on dents I'll be there. Just make sure that it's before I
finish my new project so that I'm still driving "Big Ugly". If I put all
of the parts that I've exploded in the back do they count too??
Brian
*-------------------------------------------------------------*
| briggs-at-genetics.utah.edu | Web Page Development UtahFWDA |
| justbr-at-aol.com | Storm Mountain 4X4 SLC Ut |
| Salt Lake City, Utah | Red Rock 4Wheelers Moab Ut |
|-------------------------------------------------------------|
|'79 Wide Trac Cherokee Chief S: AMC 360, T18, Dana20, Dana 44|
|front and rear with 4.56 gears & Lock-Rites, 35" BFG M/Ts, 4"|
|SkyJacker SoftRide Lift, Some rust, And lots of dents. =8) |
*-------------------------------------------------------------*
[Back to Top]Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 09:17:20 -0600 (MDT)
From: Brian Riggs <Brian.Riggs-at-genetics.utah.edu>
Subject: Re: Gear swap Q's
On Wed, 14 May 1997, Steven A. Kaiser wrote:
> Have any of you done a ring and pinion swap?? My Cherokee has 3.07's and
> I'd like to swap in 3.73's or lower. Any suggestions?
>
> Steve Kaiser
> 76 Cherokee, 360, QT
I just installed 4.56s on mine back in December. If you've never done one
you're going to want someone who has helping you out. If you don't get it
setup just right you'll toast it within a few thousand miles. You also
need tools to measure the backlash. Luckily one of the guys in my club had
all of the tools and showed me how to set it up right. If you have never
done one and can't find someone who has to help, you might be better off
to have it done. Even having done mine I'm not sure I could do it again
without help again.
Brian
*-------------------------------------------------------------*
| briggs-at-genetics.utah.edu | Web Page Development UtahFWDA |
| justbr-at-aol.com | Storm Mountain 4X4 SLC Ut |
| Salt Lake City, Utah | Red Rock 4Wheelers Moab Ut |
|-------------------------------------------------------------|
|'79 Wide Trac Cherokee Chief S: AMC 360, T18, Dana20, Dana 44|
|front and rear with 4.56 gears & Lock-Rites, 35" BFG M/Ts, 4"|
|SkyJacker SoftRide Lift, Some rust, And lots of dents. =8) |
*-------------------------------------------------------------*
[Back to Top]Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 08:23:24 -0700 From: Gordon McKenzie <gordmck-at-direct.ca> Subject: Re: 2.72 Gears John Brewer wrote: > > I checked my diff the other day and found I had 2.72 gears! No wonder my > mileage is so good (14-16mpg hiway). Kind of sucks for offroad but I'm not > doing to much of that these days. How common were the 2.72's? > I think once the 80's hit, 2.72 was standard and 3.31's were the towing package. Even my 81 CJ had 2.72's (which worked fine with the T-18 and Dana 300). Gord[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 08:44:26 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> Subject: Re: 2.72 Gears At 08:09 14-05-97 -0500, you wrote: >I checked my diff the other day and found I had 2.72 gears! No wonder my >mileage is so good (14-16mpg hiway). Kind of sucks for offroad but I'm not >doing to much of that these days. How common were the 2.72's? > >JB Real common in Wagons, I think it was an option in the early-mid 80's with the v8' but 2.73 was standard in 83, and the late 80's (87-91). The rest with v8's usually had 3.31's. Not exactly off road gears either once you've added bigger tires. The cj's even had them in the later years :( Actually the entire american auto industry had high gears at least available from the early 80's on The Gov must have passed some new required mileage laws around then. Regards, -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 08:55:05 -0700 From: swhitney-at-presto.GIS.Pima.GOV. (Steve Whitney) Subject: Re: Get the Parts Books? I got mine a couple of weeks ago, sorry I didn't let you know earlier, but they sat in the box for about a week (that's how things are with a 21 mo. old boy running the show). I did get a chance to go through them page by page one night (I know, get a life) and they are most excellent! The best part about it is now I can call the dealer or parts source and just rattle off the part #'s that I need instead of trying to explain to them what I need based on how the service manuals refer the parts. A big thanks to Zack for doing the legwork! Steve Whitney, '78 Wag 401, 4bbl, TH400 w/ B&M Transpak, QT w/ MM part-time kit, 2" AALs, 31" BFG ATs Tucson, AZ swhitney-at-gis.pima.gov[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:10:16 EST From: "Sam Wallace" <wallace-at-riker.stjoe.udayton.edu> Subject: Limo I have a picture of a GW limo with, I believe, 8 doors. There are also some interior shots. Pretty classy FSJ. In the same book, there is a picture of a Utility Wagon (or station wagon) set up the same way. Sam Wallace 84 GW[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:13:28 EST From: "Sam Wallace" <wallace-at-riker.stjoe.udayton.edu> Subject: Admiral's Warning & 360 question I got a warning from Admiral Brian about which 360 hospitals to avoid in the Dayton area. Not a problem, because my brother's shop is going to do the rebuild, and I trust them. I also know where they live! I have been told that the AMC 360 is really a Ford truck engine. Is that really true? Sam Wallace 84 GW[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 09:33:37 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> Subject: Lead additives. At 07:15 14-05-97 -0700, you wrote: I run at a minimum 2 >bottles of lead substitute for each 5 fillups. Without the lead >substitute unecessary wear could occur. > >Regards, > >Mark Mark, Just my opinion here but save your money. All the lead ever did was keep the valve seats lubed. By the time you wear those down the heads will need going through anyway. Plus the absence of lead has never been proven to cause 'significant' wear over using leaded fuel. The money you save on lead additives will pay to get your heads done at some 'distant' time. I've never run lead additives in anything even my motorcycles and everything I own just about is from 1970-73. I never seen any 'extra' wear on anything. My 71 HD Sportster has 40k miles on it with one top end job since new. (That's real good if you're not familiar with HD's). My 73 360 V8 has 160k on the engine and heads and runs fine blah blah blah..... Also by just throwing lead additives in the fuel tank you're not getting near the proper lead ratio due to uneven mixing. IMHO you're probably doing more harm by gumming stuff up with the extra lead not to mention the pollution concerns. Talk with a local engine rebuilder before you buy anymore. Unleaded fuels have been used long enough now in older cars to dispel the "you're engine will be ruined on unleaded fuel" scare. Regards, -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:41:34 -0400 (EDT) From: GypsyLive-at-aol.com Subject: Re: Admiral's Warning & 360 question In a message dated 97-05-14 12:30:44 EDT, you write: > > I have been told that the AMC 360 is really a Ford truck engine. Is > that really true? > NOT TRUE ive had this argument a zillion times, if your mechanic or parts dealer told you this, FIND ANOTHER SHOP!!!! amc 360, is an AMC 360! ford 360 is a totally different motor[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 09:57:41 -0700 From: Dan Matheny <dmatheny-at-mutoh.com> Subject: RE: AXLE questions >Ok, I am still looking for my axle shaft ( model 20, widetrack, passenger >side) Btu I have an important question: > >WILL A J-TRUCK axle shaft interchange? >dealership only has 2 part numbers ( wagoneer, jtruck/cherokee) > >but computerized salvage yards tell me the see 2 different part numbers... > >ANY BODY HAVE IDEAS!!! > >THANKS! I believe that a Dana 44 or AMC 20 out of a J10 will interchange with a widetrack Cherokee. What year is your Jeep? Front or rear axle? C Ya, Dan Matheny '77 J20, 360, QT; '95 ZJ Laredo, 318, QT[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 11:11:01 -0700 From: "Landen Schooler (the Scotsman)" <skoullar-at-ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: Anyone w/ 62-72 FSJ Put me down as a maybe for now. Landen Schooler Zack Heisey wrote: > > Hello 62-72 FSJ Lovers, > As some of you already know, I have stumbled across an original copy > of a 62-72 J-series Jeep Parts Manual. Like the other parts manual, I > am going to get it reprinted for the list if there is sufficient > interest. I already have three people interested, and I would like to > find out if there are any more. A ballpark price for this will probably > be around $50 give or take. This book isn't quite as thick as the 74-80 > 'cuz it dosen't have any CJ crap. If you are interested, you don't have > to commit to anything, I would just like to know a general number. If > we can get around 10 people, the price would be cheaper. Let me know. > Later, > > Zack Heisey > '79 J-10 > '79 Cherokee Chief Wide Track > > --------------------------------------------------- > To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command > "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > >[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 11:26:53 -0700
From: "Landen Schooler (the Scotsman)" <skoullar-at-ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Admiral's Warning & 360 question
>
> I have been told that the AMC 360 is really a Ford truck engine. Is
> that really true?
>
> Sam Wallace
> 84 GW
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>NO!<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
It's AMC. Just like the 327 is not a Chevy engine.
[Back to Top]Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 13:53:31 -0400 (EDT) From: GypsyLive-at-aol.com Subject: Re: AXLE questions In a message dated 97-05-14 13:09:47 EDT, you write: > I believe that a Dana 44 or AMC 20 out of a J10 will interchange with a > widetrack Cherokee. What year is your Jeep? Front or rear axle? > > C Ya, > ok, Its the rear axle, and I only need the shaft, passengert side, its an AMC model 20...But they only used this widetrack model 20 from 80-83, and I cant find one in a junkyard ( Ive called a zillion places) So I was wondering if an 80-83 Jtruck might have the same axle shaft...i have heard that it will work, and Ive heard it wont, so I am turning to the list for actuall hands on experience... I may end up having to do a complete swap to a dana 44, the JEEP dealor wants over 300 for the shaft for a model 20...I bet I can find a dana 44 for 3-400 in a yard, but I dont want to have to mess with changing the gears...so thats the last option.. i found alocal shop today who put me on a parts find hotlist ( some computer system to locate parts) but they havent called back yet.. SOMEBODY HAS TO HAVE ONE OF THESE SHAFTS LAYING AROUND! any input GREATLY appreciated Matt, Jeepless In Fayetteville[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 13:05:26 -0500 From: Jeff Herbst <JeffHerbst-at-electrosys.com> Subject: RE: Admiral's Warning & 360 question Sam Wrote: >>I have been told that the AMC 360 is really a Ford truck engine. Is >>that really true? Sam, Ford did use a '360' in many truckss from the mid 60s up, but this was a variation on the Ford big block (352,360,390,402?,410,428,429,460, maybe more). I had a '67 Galaxie XL in high school with a 390 and rebuilt it once. I can state that there is nothing about the block/heads that are remotely similar! From what I have read the AMC 304,360.401 is an AMC design. Anyone else have more? Jeff Herbst 1982 Wagoneer LTD Texas > > >[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 11:21:50 -0700 From: "Aaron Holley" <aholley-at-jps.net> Subject: 360 V8 mpg Around town here in Sacramento I average about 9/10mpg, lots of stop and go, no hills, etc. When I hit the highway and can use the cruise control (usually I-5), with no headwind and an average load I can hit 14/15 if I can hold a steady 65mph. If I head East on US Hwy 50 towards Placerville, Lake Tahoe, etc., my mpg drops to the city ratings since I can't use the cruise in the hills. My experience with the 360 has been it doesn't matter how you're loaded, etc., you're going to get 10 in town and 14/15 on the highway without pulling any hills. On the Jeep-L list a gent is currently installing the Howell FI unit on the 360 2v. I'm very anxious to read about the results, install problems, cost, etc., since gasoline here in Sac has continued to go up and up. And the summer isn't even here yet! The ac kills mpg btw!!! Unfortunately the Howell unit is not smog legit in CA. With a 20 gallon tank, it has gotten to the point where we're just parking it and using it only on a weekend trip - however with the poor mpg that doesn't make sense. A trip to SF (100 miles one way) gets to be costly, especially if there's a tie-up on the Bay Bridge. Love our FSJ, but have begun to seriously consider an XJ Limited. With the high cost of smog, registration,fuel, etc., I can't afford to just park a vehicle and use it only for short run outings. Aaron.[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 15:22:35 -0400 (EDT) From: TCOLLINS-at-aol.com Subject: RE: Spring bushing replacement From: gordmck-at-direct.ca (Gordon McKenzie) > Has anyone done their front spring hanger bushings? ... Gord Gord: Here's an excerpt for the Jeep MR 253 manual - Spring Bushing Small Bushing Removal Insert a 3/8" x 8" length of threaded rod halfway thru the bushing. Place a suitable size socket on one end with the open end of the socket toward the bushing. The socket will act as the bushing driver. Note: The socket must be large enough in diameter to bear against the outer sleeve on the bushing but still be small enough to pass thru the spring eye. Install one flat washer and one hex nut on the rod behind the socket. Install a 2" long section of suitable size pipe on the opposite end of the threaded rod. The pipe will serve as the bushing receiver. Note: The inside diameter must be large enough to accommodate the bushing but still seat against the spring eye surface properly. Install a flat washer and a hex nut. Be sure the flat washer is large enough to support and maintain alignment of the pipe section. Tighten both nuts finger-tight and align all components. out of the spring eye (into the piece of pipe. Tighten the nut at the socket end of the rod until the bushing is pressed out of the spring eye. The installation instructions are pretty wordy and translate into just reversing the above steps to press the new one in. Large bushing removal Same as above but substitute a 1/2" x 11" threaded rod and a 3" piece of pipe and use a deep socket. Hope this helps and good luck. Tom C, Tampa[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 15:27:54 -0400 (EDT) From: TCOLLINS-at-aol.com Subject: Summit Racing Catalog As a point of reference you can order their catalog from their web site and they don't charge for it. Takes about 2-3 weeks to get but as a lot of great stuff. Web site is http://www.summitracing.com Tel is 1-800-230-3030 Never ordered anything from them yet but I probably will in the near future. Tom C, Tampa[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 12:40:50 -0700 From: Tom Anhalt <tanhalt-at-earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Lead additives. Guys, when they started phasing the lead out of the regular gas a few years back, I was really concerned about what the effect would by for my Buick. A friend of mine who is into muscle cars gave me a couple articles that investigated the effects of unleaded on engines without hardened valve seats and valve guides. The basic conclusion was that the only situation where you would cause excessive valve seat recession and valve guide wear is if the engine is being run at high rpms with a heavy load for long durations of time. For example, towing a 5000# trailer up a grade at 75 mph for a couple hours could qualify for this case. Normal everyday driving has no effect. Since that time I've probably put about 35-40k miles on the Buick running unleaded. Although I haven't taken the engine apart yet, I don't think there has been any problem. One thing I've noticed, though, is that the older, higher compression engines (the Buick is 9:1) run MUCH cooler and better using a minimum of 89 octane even though I never had any detonation problems with 87. I have a feeling the higher octane helps keep excessive cylinder temperatures and pressures from damaging the engine and helps make up for the lack of lead. Tom Anhalt Joe Schaefer wrote: > > At 07:15 14-05-97 -0700, you wrote: > I run at a minimum 2 > >bottles of lead substitute for each 5 fillups. Without the lead > >substitute unecessary wear could occur. > > > >Regards, > > > >Mark > > Mark, > Just my opinion here but save your money. All the lead ever did was keep > the valve seats lubed. By the time you wear those down the heads will need > going through anyway. Plus the absence of lead has never been proven to > cause 'significant' wear over using leaded fuel. The money you save on lead > additives will pay to get your heads done at some 'distant' time. I've > never run lead additives in anything even my motorcycles and everything I > own just about is from 1970-73. I never seen any 'extra' wear on anything. > My 71 HD Sportster has 40k miles on it with one top end job since new. > (That's real good if you're not familiar with HD's). My 73 360 V8 has 160k > on the engine and heads and runs fine blah blah blah..... > Also by just throwing lead additives in the fuel tank you're not getting > near the proper lead ratio due to uneven mixing. IMHO you're probably doing > more harm by gumming stuff up with the extra lead not to mention the > pollution concerns. > Talk with a local engine rebuilder before you buy anymore. Unleaded fuels > have been used long enough now in older cars to dispel the "you're engine > will be ruined on unleaded fuel" scare. > > Regards, > -jj > > --------------------------------------------------- > To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command > "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > >[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 15:30:31 -0500 From: brewer-at-thaad.tecmas.com (John Brewer) Subject: RE: Spring bushing replacement The threaded rod method will work more smoothly if you lube the threads good and keep them lubed throughout the procedure. This will make it go A LOT easier. JB "Any man who would trade liberty for security deserves neither." Benjamin Franklin[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 14:19:51 -0700 From: "Carlo J. Calica" <calica-at-adj.com> Subject: I'm back Hi everyone. I'm back on the list and am now located in San Francisco, CA. Unfortunately, my Grand Wag is still back in Wisconsin and I'm already feeling withdrawl. Also my handy dandy list archive should be back online soon. - Carlo J. Calica Technical Director http://www.adj.com ADJACENCY: Brand New Media TM tel (415) 487-4510 PGP Fingerprint: E7 60 BE 76 F1 0B 6F B4 D8 81 40 2F 5F 47 E1 FA[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 16:30:45 -0500 (CDT) From: Moake Brian <iw67-at-jove.acs.unt.edu> Subject: RE: Hey- trade simms On Tue, 13 May 1997, Jeff Herbst wrote: > > > >>Anyone want to trade 16 megs, 72 pin for 16 megs, 30 pin or within reason, I > >>need a newer computer, but I rather put the bucks into the jeep. > >> > >> > >>W. Rees > > Good Luck! Really you probably will end up using a 'Simm Stacker'. These > things are getting cheaper (around $20 in Dallas). They go for about $10 at the first Sat swap meet.[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:49:25 -0400 From: Kevin LaRue <osfoo-at-megalink.net> Subject: Re: Lead additives. [from Tom Anhalt <tanhalt-at-earthlink.net>:] > . . . >problem. One thing I've noticed, though, is that the older, higher >compression engines (the Buick is 9:1) run MUCH cooler and better using >a minimum of 89 octane even though I never had any detonation problems >with 87. I have a feeling the higher octane helps keep excessive >cylinder temperatures and pressures from damaging the engine and helps >make up for the lack of lead. > . . . Reasoning from a sorta' related analogy department: Chainsaw meltdowns can be caused by using lower octane gas . . . Be seeing you! Kevin LaRue Osfoo PO Box 62, Peru, Maine 04290 (207)665-2348 osfoo-at-megalink.net[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:49:27 -0400 From: Kevin LaRue <osfoo-at-megalink.net> Subject: RE: Spring bushing replacement A trick that often makes pressing a new pushing in: lube the bushing with liquid Ivory prior to installation. Be seeing you! Kevin LaRue Osfoo PO Box 62, Peru, Maine 04290 (207)665-2348 osfoo-at-megalink.net[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 14:54:06 -0700
From: Mike_Ahlmann-at-infinity.com
Subject: Re: I'm back
As a former Wisconsonian, let me welcome you to the "left" coast. In
the City, you'll still get to wear lots of jackets and sweaters, but you
won't see any winters like we got back there! Out here, snow is something
you go to visit when you feel the need.
On the intimidation scale from 0 (Jugo) to 10 (Mack truck), the FSJ
rates about an 8 on most SF streets. Have you driven down Lombard Street
yet? How about Gough?
When will your Jeep get here?
-Mike A., '87 GW
calica -at- adj.com
05/14/97 02:19 PM
Please respond to fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com
To: fsj-list -at- listserver.tehabi.com
cc:
Subject: I'm back
Hi everyone.
I'm back on the list and am now located in San Francisco, CA.
Unfortunately, my Grand Wag is still back in Wisconsin and I'm already
feeling withdrawl. Also my handy dandy list archive should be back online
soon.
- Carlo J. Calica
Technical Director http://www.adj.com
ADJACENCY: Brand New Media TM tel (415) 487-4510
PGP Fingerprint: E7 60 BE 76 F1 0B 6F B4 D8 81 40 2F 5F 47 E1 FA
---------------------------------------------------
To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the
command
"unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message.
[Back to Top]Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 15:13:37 -0700
From: Mike_Ahlmann-at-infinity.com
Subject: Re: Lead additives.
Is this true for 2 stroke engines, which wouldn't work out well in FSJs?
(Note mandatory FSJ content subtlely included!)
-Mike A.
osfoo -at- megalink.net
05/14/97 02:49 PM
Please respond to fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com
To: fsj-list -at- listserver.tehabi.com
cc:
Subject: Re: Lead additives.
[from Tom Anhalt <tanhalt-at-earthlink.net>:]
> . . .
>problem. One thing I've noticed, though, is that the older, higher
>compression engines (the Buick is 9:1) run MUCH cooler and better using
>a minimum of 89 octane even though I never had any detonation problems
>with 87. I have a feeling the higher octane helps keep excessive
>cylinder temperatures and pressures from damaging the engine and helps
>make up for the lack of lead.
> . . .
Reasoning from a sorta' related analogy department: Chainsaw meltdowns can
be caused by using lower octane gas . . .
Be seeing you!
Kevin LaRue
Osfoo
PO Box 62, Peru, Maine 04290
(207)665-2348
osfoo-at-megalink.net
---------------------------------------------------
To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the
command
"unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message.
[Back to Top]Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 15:16:29 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone w/ 62-72 FSJ
u got me down on ur 'interested' list...right?? :)
Zack Heisey wrote:
>
> Hello 62-72 FSJ Lovers,
> As some of you already know, I have stumbled across an original copy
> of a 62-72 J-series Jeep Parts Manual. Like the other parts manual, I
> am going to get it reprinted for the list if there is sufficient
> interest. I already have three people interested, and I would like to
> find out if there are any more. A ballpark price for this will probably
> be around $50 give or take. This book isn't quite as thick as the 74-80
> 'cuz it dosen't have any CJ crap. If you are interested, you don't have
> to commit to anything, I would just like to know a general number. If
> we can get around 10 people, the price would be cheaper. Let me know.
> Later,
>
> Zack Heisey
> '79 J-10
> '79 Cherokee Chief Wide Track
>
> --------------------------------
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can go, then it's a
Super Wagoneer.
[Back to Top]Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 15:22:15 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: gears
henry..what ratio are they??
as long as there re from a d44, they ll fit ALL d44's!!
68 Wagoneer wrote:
>
> No, they're both out of D44s, the front is a '76 and the rear is a '72
> (does the year matter when replacing gears of the same type of axle?).
> Problem is, I didn't get the front gears back when my friend installed
> them. I don't know what condition the rears are in but you can have them
> for $25 (half of what I'll pay for the replacement 3.73). I don't think i
> can give you the carrier though because I think I need it for the new
> gears.
>
> =======================================
> Henry Padilla
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can go, then it's a
Super Wagoneer.
[Back to Top]Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:59:01 -0500 From: "Jeff Gunn" <jgunn-at-hou.varco.com> Subject: '74 Corvette (BARELY FSJ related) Well folks...I did it. Yesterday I bought a 1974 Corvette for $2600. It's a 350 4-speed with A/C, t-tops, and deluxe interior. It was ordered with the power steering delete and power brake delete. It has 105,000 miles and hasn't been inspected since 1983. I checked it personally and the numbers match. Doesn't run since it has been sitting for so long, but I will remedy that fairly soon. This is FSJ related because you can guess which project is now on the back burner (hint: it's rusty and just got promoted "parts hauler"). So I am going to be less active on the list in the future. I have taken my Cherokee from 3 years of sitting in a pasture to being a reliable, safe vehicle. But to put any more money into the rust-infested body would be futile on my part. So the Cherokee is finished, for now at least. So I'd like to thank everyone for the help and support, and the opportunity to assist others. I'll be in and out of the list.... Or e-mail me direct. Jeff Gunn '78 Cherokee 4-doors, no floors '74 Corvette[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 18:03:18 -0500
From: "Sc0" <jjd-at-flex.net>
Subject: Re: Compression Ratios
> >>OK, who knows what the highest compression ratio used in a 360 was, and a
> 401.
> >>What about the highest one avalible now?
> >> Karl Streich
> >
> >The '76 shop manual ('80 also) says 8.25 for both 360 & 401. The '76 304
> >had 8.4 cr.
> >
> >Mike Saltsgaver
> >
>
> 8.5 for the 73/360 and it's all down hill from the mid 70's on.
> -jj
>
>
8.5 on a '72 360
[Back to Top]Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 18:18:59 -0500 From: "Sc0" <jjd-at-flex.net> Subject: Re: Anyone w/ 62-72 FSJ Me also... > Put me down as a maybe for now. > Landen Schooler > > > > Zack Heisey wrote: > > > > Hello 62-72 FSJ Lovers, > > As some of you already know, I have stumbled across an original copy > > of a 62-72 J-series Jeep Parts Manual. Like the other parts manual, I > > am going to get it reprinted for the list if there is sufficient > > interest. I already have three people interested, and I would like to > > find out if there are any more. A ballpark price for this will probably > > be around $50 give or take. This book isn't quite as thick as the 74-80 > > 'cuz it dosen't have any CJ crap. If you are interested, you don't have > > to commit to anything, I would just like to know a general number. If > > we can get around 10 people, the price would be cheaper. Let me know. > > Later, > > > > Zack Heisey > > '79 J-10 > > '79 Cherokee Chief Wide Track > > > > --------------------------------------------------- > > To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command > > "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------- > To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command > "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > >[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:15:32 -0400
From: Kevin LaRue <osfoo-at-megalink.net>
Subject: Re: Sticking my neck out for JCW
[from Jeff Herbst <JeffHerbst-at-electrosys.com>:]
>OK, so what do you guys have against JCWhitney? So far I have been
>satisfied with everything I have bought from them. Several of the items
>I bought can be found proudly displayed at the local hot-rod shop.
>Every shipment has come with a preprinted RMA form and a check box for
>refund or swap. All in all if you stay away from the 'Lighted Jester
>hood ornament' you can do OK.
The scenario went something like this (*some* of this is reasonable):
1) There catalog specifically lists my manufacturer/model/year for the part
that I want.
2) I call them, they say that their computer is down so they can't verify
that the part that I want is in stock, but if they have it they'll ship
tomorrow (I give them my credit card #). The person that I'm dealing with
doesn't know anything about cars.
3) two weeks (! what happened to "tomorrow?" -- USPS isn't anywere near that
slow) later I receive a letter stating that the part doesn't exist for my
manufacturer/model/year.
4) I call them & point out #1. They agree that I'm correct & that they have
one in stock & that they'll ship it tommorrow.
5) Four weeks (! what happened to "tomorrow?" -- it doesn't take anywhere
near that long to drive across the country) later the part shows up for my
manufacturer/year/WRONGmodel.
6) I call them. They say send it back, we'll send you the correct part
tomorrow. They won't pay for my return shipping!
7) I ship my part back the next day.
8) Three weeks later I call them for a status report. They say that they
haven't shipped yet (what happened to tomorrow?), but they'll ship tomorrow.
(I told them that I'd heard that word ("tomorrow") from them too often --
please cancel the order & credit my credit card.
9) Their credit showed up on my next bill.
10) Six weeks later, I recieved a postcard from them stating that my
backordered part was in & they would be shipping it unless they heard from
me within a week. This is the first time that they have used the word
"backorder" with me.
11) I called them the next day & told them no.
12) My next credit card bill had a charge from them.
13) I called my credit card company & told them I wasn't going to pay & why.
They agreed to take care of it & I never heard a peep again.
So: That's three tomorrows that never came, 18 weeks duration, one return
postage, five phone calls that I paid for (no 800#), one phone call that my
credit card company paid for, my time on six phone calls, my credit card
company's time on one phone call + their time dealing with JC Whitney.
Be seeing you!
Kevin LaRue
Osfoo
PO Box 62, Peru, Maine 04290
(207)665-2348
osfoo-at-megalink.net
[Back to Top]Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:16:20 -0700 From: Dan Matheny <dmatheny-at-mutoh.com> Subject: Re: AXLE questions >In a message dated 97-05-14 13:09:47 EDT, you write: > >> I believe that a Dana 44 or AMC 20 out of a J10 will interchange with a >> widetrack Cherokee. What year is your Jeep? Front or rear axle? >> >> C Ya, >> >ok, Its the rear axle, and I only need the shaft, passenger side, its an AMC >model 20...But they only used this widetrack model 20 from 80-83, and I cant >find one in a junkyard ( Ive called a zillion places) > I called the yard I usually get stuff from and they have one that they think is right, but to be sure, they need to know the length of the shaft you've got, measured from the outside of the flange to the end of the shaft. >So I was wondering if an 80-83 Jtruck might have the same axle shaft...I have >heard that it will work, and Ive heard it wont, so I am turning to the list >for actual hands on experience... I asked about this at two yards, one said they're the same, the other said he thinks they're different lengths. > >SOMEBODY HAS TO HAVE ONE OF THESE SHAFTS LAYING AROUND! > >any input GREATLY appreciated > > >Matt, Jeepless In Fayetteville Normally I'd be happy to relay between you and the yard here, but I'm leaving town tomorrow and I'll be gone until next Tuesday. I asked if they would ship the shaft, they said yes. So if you want to check it out yourself, call Romero at Arizona 4x4 Recyclers 602-276-9606, give him the length of your old shaft, and see what he's got. If you want to wait until next week, email me the measurement, and I'll get on it next week. C Ya, Dan '77 J20, 360, QT; '95 ZJ Laredo, 318, QT[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:14:31 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> Subject: Re: I'm back At 14:19 14-05-97 -0700, you wrote: >Hi everyone. > >I'm back on the list and am now located in San Francisco, CA. >Unfortunately, my Grand Wag is still back in Wisconsin and I'm already >feeling withdrawl. Also my handy dandy list archive should be back online >soon. > - Carlo J. Calica Welcome back Carlo...glad to have the archive back too :) Regards, -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:33:44 -0700 From: billy dunn <dunns-at-csra.net> Subject: Re: 360 V8 mpg > > With a 20 gallon tank, it has gotten to the point where we're just parking >it and using it only on a weekend trip - however with the poor mpg that >doesn't make sense. A trip to SF (100 miles one way) gets to be costly, >especially if there's a tie-up on the Bay Bridge. > > Love our FSJ, but have begun to seriously consider an XJ Limited. With the >high cost of smog, registration,fuel, etc., I can't afford to just park a >vehicle and use it only for short run outings. > > >Aaron. > > Need to move down south....gas just went to .94 cent a gallon for regular unleaded.... Yippeeeeeeee I can drive my huggie diaper machine again....BTW 5-7 mpg... :( named that due to baby blue paint.... Billy 79,80 J10[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:09:59 -0500 From: "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com> Subject: Re: Keeping exhaust from coming in the windows The '72 parts Wag I just bought has one. It's in good shape except for the shelf paper (needs replacing). Not sure if I'll install it on Ole Bessy. ======================================= Henry Padilla '68 Jeep Wagoneer Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com ---------- > From: Chrisharon-at-aol.com > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: Keeping exhaust from coming in the windows > Date: Saturday, May 10, 1997 12:08 AM > > I'm assuming you're talking about the exhaust being sucked in the back > window while you're driving? If so, they used to make (still may for all I > know) an air deflector that mounts to the top back of the roof that breaks > the vaccuum(sp?) created by our big boxes. I pulled one in the junk yard and > will hopefully be installing it before our trip in a couple days. If I do, > I'll let you know how it works.[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:28:40 -0500 From: "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com> Subject: Re: lift kit Mike, I went to a spring shop (actually it's named "The Spring Shop"!) to have Ole Bessy's new u-bolts made. Cost about $7 each. I intentionally asked for longer ones since I was going to add a leaf or two. Used a cut-off tool to cut off the excess. Only thing I'd caution about is if you get a longer u-bolt make sure the threaded portion is long enough and doesn't allow the nut to run out of thread before the correct torque is acheived. Also, since the custom u-bolts are usu not cad-plated you might want to paint them prior to installation to ward off rust. ======================================= Henry Padilla '68 Jeep Wagoneer Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com ---------- > From: chrissy saltsgaver <chrissys-at-midwest.net> > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: lift kit > Date: Saturday, May 10, 1997 10:10 PM > > Finally have the '83 laredo road ready. The former owner had installed a 3" > lift on the back to compensate for spring sag & to give it some southern > "attitude". He took the blocks out prior to selling to me to put them on a > chero. There were only 2 original u-bolts left (one on each side, the > others had twisted off) so when I went to replace them I couldn't get the > right ones (correct diameter & spacing) from the local NAPA dealer. > > I wound up buying a 2" lift kit from Auto Zone which did have the right size > bolts (2&7/8 between the legs). They must have used one bolt for all lift > kits as they were 10&3/4" long. I did a quick measurement & found if The > axle ever bottoms out on the rubber stops (on the frame), the ends of the > bolts will hit the floor of the bed. I shortened them 1&1/8" althou after > installation I could have shortened them 2". > > The extra 2 inches are hardly noticable (read started saving for new > springs:( ). I think maybe even the front springs are not quite as tall as > they should be. I'll have to measure height of the 4 flair openings to > compare to someone elses. > > If any of you are going to add lifts or changing the u-bolts, consider the > length & what they can run into during full travel of the axle. > > Mike Saltsgaver.[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:30:21 -0500 From: "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com> Subject: Re: aixelsyd and Alisas post Are you sure that's not Drunks Against Mad Mothers? ======================================= Henry Padilla '68 Jeep Wagoneer Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com ---------- > From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: aixelsyd and Alisas post > Date: Saturday, May 10, 1997 11:42 PM > > Man, I gotta start sending money to D.A.M. Mothers Against Dyslexia. > > Regards, > -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:31:16 -0500 From: "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com> Subject: Re: 3" exhaust Mark Wallace has duals on his Wag. That's primarily because he used glasspacks. ======================================= Henry Padilla '68 Jeep Wagoneer Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com ---------- > From: Moake Brian <iw67-at-jove.acs.unt.edu> > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: Re: 3" exhaust > Date: Saturday, May 10, 1997 11:45 PM > > On Sat, 10 May 1997, chrissy saltsgaver wrote: > > I've seen talk of the larger O.D. pipes. Without headers, is it worth the > > effort? My GW has a 2 1/4" I.D. pipe all the way thru. The J10 has the > > same Y-pipe but only a 2" I.D. tail pipe (it's a muffler shop special). > > At some point in time I'm going to change the J10's muffler (it has a small > > "turbo" style on it know, & I'd like to quiet it down a little (not that > > it's too loud now). If a 3" pipe is good for any mileage I'd sure be > > interested:) > > I have not measured my current pipes, but I was planning on starting with > the wye pipe and replacing it with a 2x2x3 and running 3" through the > cat and splitting it before the mufflers for dual exhaust out the rear. > The 3" is an acceptable replace ment for true duals, since true duals > aren't practical on an FSJ (front drive shaft and the fuel tank are in the > way). > > > Note that I don't even have a catalyst or air pump in the system (smog?? me > > thinks that's somethin they hunt around these parts:) > > Hell, they don't even inspect trucks in your area!!![Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 20:33:43 -0500 From: "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com> Subject: Re: Anyone w/ 62-72 FSJ Yeah, will that cover a Wag as well as a J-truck? ======================================= Henry Padilla '68 Jeep Wagoneer Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com ---------- > From: ck1-at-pacbell.net > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: Re: Anyone w/ 62-72 FSJ > Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 7:04 AM > > Hello Zack... I have a 1970 Wagoneer 1414C. If this model is > included in what you have - I'm interested... > > On 1997-05-14 moosh-at-redrose.net said: > > >As some of you already know, I have stumbled across an original copy > >of a 62-72 J-series Jeep Parts Manual. Like the other parts manual, > >I am going to get it reprinted for the list if there is sufficient > >interest. I already have three people interested, and I would like > >to find out if there are any more. A ballpark price for this will > >probably be around $50 give or take. This book isn't quite as > >thick as the 74-80 'cuz it dosen't have any CJ crap. If you are > >interested, you don't have to commit to anything, I would just like > >to know a general number. If we can get around 10 people, the > >price would be cheaper. Let me know. Later, > > All the Best, > Bruce * kb6lwn * ck1-at-pacbell.net * 707-987-4737 > > .. 1970 Jeep Wagoneer (1414C) V8-350 4WD "Pinecone" > > Net-Tamer V 1.08X - Test Drive[Back to Top]
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