Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:28:15 -0500 From: Joe Sego <jsego-at-mindspring.com> Subject: Re: GW bumpers > >>Yeah and a darn poor grade of aluminum too. My rear bumper was >>literally flaking apart when I bought the cherokee (79) I've since >>replaced it. imho they are of little value, a truck with aluminum bumpers? >>I'll take steel anyday. >> >>C'ya > >What did you replace it with? >My 79 bumper is flaking off, too. > > "If only I had money." >Mike Hill > Well I took the easy way out...bought a rear bumper off a 88 or so Wag in the boneyard. Same bumper, just bought some time with a newer one :-) My j-10 has a steel (chrome even) step bumper...I may try that on my Cherokee, being vertically challenged I need the step just to put things in and out of the rear compartment without lowering the gate! (right John?) C'ya joe- 79 Chief[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:40:26 -0500 From: Joe Sego <jsego-at-mindspring.com> Subject: Observations Hidy-Ho FSJers, We've been busy all weekend cleaning the garage, yard etc. Finally got my son's 66 Impala convertible out of the garage so I can get some of my vehicles into the garage for some maintenance. Now to my point....I was moving some parts around and I noticed the ports on the Edelbrock performer for the 360 are rather small. Looks like someone with a lot of time could really improve the flow (Michael?) by porting the intake and heads. The ports "looked" to be smaller than those on a small block Chevy. (I had a Chevy manifold close-by to compare, I did not measure them) Has anyone had their heads and manifold ported during their rebuild process? Since the cutouts on the gasket is larger than the ports, it seems porting could make a considerable difference.....yes?...no? BTW, we drove the Chief 3 times over the weekend, each time we were loaded with 4 passengers. I think the Chief is 'growing' on the family.. C'ya Joe- ******************************************************** *1979 Cherokee Chief 360-QT-Th-400-Red 110,000 mi. * *1978 Jeep J-10 Levi 360-QT-Th-400-Brown- parts donor * *ARS KJ9D - Joe Sego Indianapolis, Indiana * * - home page http://www.mindspring.com/~jsego * ********************************************************[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 22:59:06 -0400 (EDT) From: Chrisharon-at-aol.com Subject: Midland CB I've still got an old Midland 23 channel C.B. sitting around in the garage. Talk about old.[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 22:17:49 -0500 (CDT) From: chrissy saltsgaver <chrissys-at-midwest.net> Subject: longing for the old days I've finally noticed that I can't finish anything in a hurry anymore. When I was younger I could trade for an old car & swap in an engine or whatever & be tooling around in it the next day. Now it seems to take longer & longer to finish a project. Instead of fix & go, everything has turned into a "restoration". Went to put the brush guard on the Laredo & noticed that maybe it'd look better with a new coat of paint which takes a little time. Next I think I'll pull the bumper & grill to touch up some rock chips that'll be hard to reach once the guard is on, but discover that there's lots of sand packed into the joint between the front panel & bottom panel (where the turn signal lenses are mounted. Thinking I should get that out so the panel doesn't rust out (like both of the other trucks), I wound up pulling the whole front panel off & pressure washing the joint out, sanding & painting (I poured the joint full of Rustoleum rusty metal primer then sprayed black paint on top) which takes more time out of my Sunday. Finally put everything back together (after polishing the grill & cleaning the turn signal lenses) & got back to the original goal of mounting the brush guard. Ran into trouble when the 2 bumper bolts which have to be removed to mount the front of the guard wanted to rotate rather than come apart (the square hole in the aluminum bumper rounded out). Had to use vise grips to ruin the bolt to get the nut off (someone borrowed my nut crackers & didn't return them). Took a break to box up the 4.0L motor mount brackets for Tom A. & the grill for Ashley M. Also had to snack on the leftovers from my daughter's graduation party (junior college). Once the 2 bolts were out, on went the bumper plus the time to align it (a trick in itself). Now, the time I'd been waiting for. Sonya helps me slide the guard on and I start the 2 bolts on the frame. But wait a minute, the 2 tabs on the front are down approx. 1&1/2" below the hole in the bumper. ARRGGHHHH!! The rubber bumper guards are too big to let the guard move up into position. So It's back to taking the bumper back off to remove the rubber guards. By now I've scratched the paint on the front panel (which takes time to touch up). I get 1 guard off but the other doesn't want to cooperate. The stud on it wants to rotate instead of letting the nut come off. This time there's nothing to grab onto so I'm stuck until I get my nut crackers back or I find someone with a torch. The other option is to bandsaw notches into the guards to clear the bars of the brush guard. I hate to ruin them but it might be better than looking at the places on the bumper where the rubber parts used to be once there both off. I finally gave up & washed & waxed the Wagoneer. The weather was great for it & it took my mind off the problems with the truck. Have ya ever had one of those days? Mike Saltsgaver.[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 23:25:45 -0400 From: Kevin McConn <kmcconn-at-gte.net> Subject: Quadra Trac swap I need input, please. The chain in my QT needs replacing, and I was wondering if now would be a good time to replace w/ a part time case and hubs. What kinda price are we talking for the swap?? Kevin '79 Cherokee[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 22:34:42 -0500 From: Joe Sego <jsego-at-mindspring.com> Subject: Re: longing for the old days > >I finally gave up & washed & waxed the Wagoneer. The weather was great for >it & it took my mind off the problems with the truck. Have ya ever had one >of those days? > >Mike Saltsgaver. Mike, Sounds like every project around here! C'ya joe-[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 20:43:08 -0700 From: billy dunn <dunns-at-csra.net> Subject: Re: Observations At 09:40 PM 5/18/97 -0500, you wrote: >Hidy-Ho FSJers, > >We've been busy all weekend cleaning the garage, yard etc. >Finally got my son's 66 Impala convertible out of the garage >so I can get some of my vehicles into the garage for some >maintenance. > >Now to my point....I was moving some parts around and I noticed >the ports on the Edelbrock performer for the 360 are rather small. >Looks like someone with a lot of time could really improve the flow >(Michael?) by porting the intake and heads. The ports "looked" >to be smaller than those on a small block Chevy. (I had a Chevy manifold >close-by to compare, I did not measure them) > >Has anyone had their heads and manifold ported during their rebuild process? >Since the cutouts on the gasket is larger than the ports, it seems porting >could make a considerable difference.....yes?...no? > >BTW, we drove the Chief 3 times over the weekend, each time we were >loaded with 4 passengers. I think the Chief is 'growing' on the family.. > >C'ya >Joe- > > I did Joe and it made a hell of a difference....I do all my own work and it works great.I didnt go to far just pretty much gasket matched them. Interested in selling the 66?Sure would look good sittin beside mine and my brothers. LOL Billy 79 J10 66 Caprice 79 Nova 86 Taurus(YUK) 88 Cavalier > > >[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 20:35:45 -0700 From: Tom Anhalt <tanhalt-at-earthlink.net> Subject: Re: It's a mystery SuperKen wrote: > > its been lifted. the shackle flip on the rear is the same as i have > done to the Super!! > SuperKen, you're back!! How was the Rubi-Ken adventure? Tom Anhalt[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 20:39:23 -0700 From: Tom Anhalt <tanhalt-at-earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Observations Joe Sego wrote: > > Hidy-Ho FSJers, > > We've been busy all weekend cleaning the garage, yard etc. > Finally got my son's 66 Impala convertible out of the garage > so I can get some of my vehicles into the garage for some > maintenance. > > Now to my point....I was moving some parts around and I noticed > the ports on the Edelbrock performer for the 360 are rather small. > Looks like someone with a lot of time could really improve the flow > (Michael?) by porting the intake and heads. The ports "looked" > to be smaller than those on a small block Chevy. (I had a Chevy manifold > close-by to compare, I did not measure them) > > Has anyone had their heads and manifold ported during their rebuild process? > Since the cutouts on the gasket is larger than the ports, it seems porting > could make a considerable difference.....yes?...no? > > BTW, we drove the Chief 3 times over the weekend, each time we were > loaded with 4 passengers. I think the Chief is 'growing' on the family.. > > C'ya > Joe- Joe, leave them small and rough. This will help speed up and mix up the air/fuel mixture at low engine rpms. Perfect for maximizing low end power and torque. Then again, if you plan on taking the Chief to Indy next weekend...then you better start grinding!!! Tom Anhalt '81 Cherokee Laredo[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 20:44:57 -0700 From: Tom Anhalt <tanhalt-at-earthlink.net> Subject: Re: longing for the old days chrissy saltsgaver wrote: > > I've finally noticed that I can't finish anything in a hurry anymore. When > I was younger I could trade for an old car & swap in an engine or whatever & > be tooling around in it the next day. Now it seems to take longer & longer > to finish a project. Instead of fix & go, everything has turned into a > "restoration". > > Went to put the brush guard on the Laredo & noticed that maybe it'd look > better with a new coat of paint which takes a little time. > That's because you've learned to do it right, rather than slap and dash! >... (someone borrowed my nut crackers & didn't return them). > Your wife, perhaps? > Took a break to box up the 4.0L motor mount brackets for Tom A. & the grill > for Ashley M. Also had to snack on the leftovers from my daughter's > graduation party (junior college). > I hope you mean 4.2 motor mount brackets!!! Let's cut the confusion and refer to them as 258 motor mount brackets. > Once the 2 bolts were out, on went the bumper plus the time to align it (a > trick in itself). Now, the time I'd been waiting for. Sonya helps me > slide the guard on and I start the 2 bolts on the frame. But wait a minute, > the 2 tabs on the front are down approx. 1&1/2" below the hole in the > bumper. ARRGGHHHH!! The rubber bumper guards are too big to let the guard > move up into position. > > So It's back to taking the bumper back off to remove the rubber guards. By > now I've scratched the paint on the front panel (which takes time to touch > up). I get 1 guard off but the other doesn't want to cooperate. The stud > on it wants to rotate instead of letting the nut come off. This time > there's nothing to grab onto so I'm stuck until I get my nut crackers back > or I find someone with a torch. The other option is to bandsaw notches into > the guards to clear the bars of the brush guard. I hate to ruin them but it > might be better than looking at the places on the bumper where the rubber > parts used to be once there both off. > > I finally gave up & washed & waxed the Wagoneer. The weather was great for > it & it took my mind off the problems with the truck. Have ya ever had one > of those days? > Here...I'll buy ya a beer. Tom Anhalt[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:07:53 +0000 From: "William S. McBride" <wmmcb-at-televar.com> Subject: Re: It's a mystery Ken Thanks. Any suggestions to explain the apparent front lift? Bill McBride 1968 J-100[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:17:27 +0000 From: "William S. McBride" <wmmcb-at-televar.com> Subject: Re: longing for the old days Sounds like an average day in my shop. I think we get fussier in our old age and want everything "just right". The enemy of good is better. Bill McBride[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:43:06 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> Subject: Re: "Cherokee something or other >Hmmm, is there another make of Jeep? I had the impression >Cherokee was the only real Jeep? > >Nomex on..... > Well Joe, guess some folks are just easily impressed ;) -jj j-4000[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 00:03:31 -0500 (CDT) From: chrissy saltsgaver <chrissys-at-midwest.net> Subject: Re: J10 for sale At 03:10 PM 5/18/97 -0500, you wrote: >Just looking over the latest "S. Ill. Trader" & saw the following fsj's for >sale: > >'81 J10, new engine, paint, excellent body, LP conversion, snow plow, >headaches, very solid truck. $4250 618-375-5991 >(this ones only 30 minutes from me if anyone wants me to look at it). > >'66 Jeep truck, new tranny, perfect body, no rust, $1500. 618-627-4139 >(gosh, where was this one before I went to Georgia to get one??) > >'86 Wagoneer Limited, 104,000miles, loaded, 6000 tires (?), runs good, $5000 obo >618-684-4887 > >These are all within an hours drive from me if anyones interested. > Also, in the same trader in the picture section: '79 Cherokee Chief, 2 dr, auto, 64,000miles, solid & dependable (the picture looks really good, the "chief" trim is still there & it's a light color-the pic is in black & white), $3800.00, Dexer, Mo. (about 1&1/2 hours south of St. Louis) 573-624-5315 Mike Saltsgaver.[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 21:53:37 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> Subject: Re: U-Joint Cap screws >OK now back to the problem, still have the bump induced shakes above 45. >I thinking that the front wheel bearings might be loose. I recently >turned the rotors and torqued them to 50lbs but I used an old style >torque wrench with the pointed and scale rather than a 'click' . How >about it guys, anyone else had this problem? > >Jeff Herbst Jeff, Grab the top of your tire and pull/push. If your wheel bearings are loose you should feel some slop. Regards, -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 22:19:40 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> Subject: Re: Quadra Trac swap At 23:25 18-05-97 -0400, you wrote: >I need input, please. >The chain in my QT needs replacing, and I was wondering if now would be >a good time to replace w/ a part time case and hubs. What kinda price >are we talking for the swap?? >Kevin '79 Cherokee > Kevin, I 'think' the Milemarker conversion kit is about $400?... and a set of hubs $75-$100. Regards, -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 00:19:25 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: what's new - FSJ page
What's NEW on FSJ?
- Brian Stephen's 83 Cherokee DL - from Australia (FSJ-fotos)
- added links in FSJ-links a new search engine for ORC &
a few other sites of interest
- Joe Sego presents the basics of batteries (FSJ-tech)
- life on a hillside can be interesting... (FSJ-feats)
- I-6 (258) Fuel Injection installation instructions by Tom Anhalt
(FSJ-tech)
- Breakup of FSJ Tech pages to load easier
INCLUDING a javascript pulldown to get to the SECTION of
your desire or need ASAP... the pulldown appears on the
FSJ Tech page as well as the main FSJ index!!!
- FINALLY put the picture of the 86 GW limo on the index page,
provided the isbn & title of the book... a nice addition to any
Jeep owner's library, FSJ or otherwise...
(note to the mac users and IE fans, I even added the SUBMIT button
just in case the onChange function fails... :-)
- DIESEL information - 6.2L Surplus (off of engine.html) FSJ-tech
- why Diesel's are better
- Jim Sterling's Cherokee (finally...)
- Tom's 78 J20
- Wallace Rees' 83 Wagoneer
(sorry for taking so long guys... :-)
over 118 pages of FSj info and even more photos...
---------------------------------------------------------------
john-at- http://www./~john
Snohomish, WA - where JEEPS don't rust, they mold...
http://www./~john/statement.html
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[Back to Top]Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 00:33:16 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: Re: 79 4.0L?????
> Yup, when the original 4.2L gave up the ghost (lost the skirt from a
> piston) I couldn't find another one in the bone yards so settled on
> the 4.0L from a '79 Spirit. With the 4.09 gears the thing winds up
> at highway speeds but on the back roads with my slide in camper it
> does great (or used to, before I wore it out too).
>
> Mike Saltsgaver.
Mike, they didn't come out with the 4.0L that I'm thinking about
until 1987... They had two flavors in the Spirit's:
a 232 (3.8L)
or the
258 (4.2L)
both carb'd...
Still not in the hp range of the 4.0L... But nonetheless, after
pulling my 1,000 lb trailer behind the little wagoneer I can see the
drop in performance, which will result in a drop in economy, which
may make it more feasible to make mods to my 360 to get it up to 15
to 16 mpg instead of swapping in an engine that's getting 17 to 18
and then dropping it to 15 to 16... :-)
later,
john
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john-at- http://www./~john
Snohomish, WA - where JEEPS don't rust, they mold...
http://www./~john/statement.html
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[Back to Top]Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 00:34:13 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: Re: not a problem...
> Well it sounds like John is waffling on putting a 4.0 into Old Blue
> so I think I'll just charge right in and snap them up. You've got a
> deal on the $5 + postage. Find out how much it will be to ship and
> give me a snail mail address to send the check. (Is a check O.K.?)
> Send the brackets to: Thanks again, Mike!
No problem. Even if I decide to do it I'll probably fabricate my
own... it's more fun that way.
john
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john-at- http://www./~john
Snohomish, WA - where JEEPS don't rust, they mold...
http://www./~john/statement.html
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[Back to Top]Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 00:42:50 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: Re: pictures...
> >Hopefully the pictures will come out ok. I can't hardly wait..
> >
> >John Jacobs
> >75 Wagoneer
> >Royal Oak, Michigan
> >
> >
> What do you do with them after you scan them?I just got one and dont
> know how to send them or post them(pics). Billy
email them directly to john & doc.
john-at- for a page on Off-Road.com,
please send jpg pictures and include a writeup in ASCII text,
please, no word documents or works stuff, I use vi to edit these
things... I don' t have a limit on the number of pictures, I think
doc has to because he's got size restrictions, so send your best two
shots to doc and send all that you want to see to me.
If you don't have a scanner, you can send them to me, I've got
one....
I don't have doc's email address on hand, but just look at any list,
he'll be there... he does the IFSJA pages.
later,
john meister
fsj editor
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john-at- http://www./~john
Snohomish, WA - where JEEPS don't rust, they mold...
http://www./~john/statement.html
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[Back to Top]Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 01:21:45 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: 1966 Wagoneer Test Article...
in the words of "Columbo"...
just one more thing...
I also put up the 1966 Wagoneer Test Article... :-)
new on FSJ... for those that don't want to go to FSJ-tech.html,
then literature.html,
go directly to...
http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj/wag-test.html
later,
john
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Snohomish, WA - where JEEPS don't rust, they mold...
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[Back to Top]Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 08:55:23 -0500 From: brewer-at-thaad.tecmas.com (John Brewer) Subject: Re: AC (and Freon Soapbox, nonFSJ) >At 03:28 PM 5/15/97 -0500, you wrote: >>>So, if my A/C is on the fritz, and we are seeing 85+ degrees right now, >>>what choices do I have for getting it recharged? Is there a replacement >>>for the freon that doesn't reqiure rebuilding the whole works? >>> >>>Gord >> >>You can do what is called a R-134a retrofit. It will require removing the >>receiver/dryer and blowing all the oil out of the system using compressed >>air. You will then put on a new receiver/dryer and refill the system with >>Ester Oil. R-134a is not compatible with the old type of oil. They can >>then recharge the system for you with R-134a. It won't be as cold as the >>old stuff but you won't be 85 degrees either. As for the new freon eating >>away the seals- that is patently false. It is the ester oil that will eat >>away the seals. The effect is the same but we should all strive for >>accuracy! If I recall, the whole schmere was going to cost me around $150 >>if I did the work involving replacing the receiver/dryer and drained the >>oil. That for a job that would've cost $50 a few years ago! >> > >Well uh....You dont BLOW the oil out with compressed air...There is no way >possible you can get nearly all the oil out like that.There is still oil in >the condensor and in the evaporator.To do a retrofit you will have a service >done called a FLUSH...It is a solvent that you pressurize into the system.By >unhooking the lines to the condensor and evaporator you run the flush >through these to units and it will get all of the oil out.Then you would >regulary clean the lines out and change the accumulator.Reconnect everything >and recharge after installing new R-134a fittings and install retrofit >sticker.I charge 100.00 to do the actual retrofit...thats 25.00 flush,25.00 >for all fittings,caps and stickers,and 50.00 labor.The actual accumulator >varies per application and labor to.The R134a is about 6.00 a pound and you >are all set.Actual temp.are not that noticable.Most of the ones I do are >late models and the temp difference between the 2 freons are well within >limits.(5 degrees or so)Dont expect ANY freon to freeze you out if the temp >is very hot like above 90degrees.Remember that older models with the a-6 >compressor like the ones on older GMs are not compatible. >Remember this is my .02 worth and other people will have their opions and I >cannot help that.I make sure that my jobs are done correctly and I will not >see that vehicle again for the same problem.I do not get paid to fix >comebacks...... >Billy >79J10 Thanks for the info Billy. I was repeating what the guy at "Smith Enterprises" (a local shop) told me. I am glad that I haven't had it done yet as I will enquire about the flush method when I do! It sounds like a much better method for cleaning the system. Also I, and others, have heard that the new oil will damage components or cause them to wear prematurely. Is this true in your opinion? I'd like to get as much info as possible so I only have to do this once. You also mention that some compressors are incompatible with the new stuff. How do FSJ compressors fit into this? I'm guessing "just fine" since you didn't say anything. As for opinions, I do know a good deal about freon and it's properties as well as the arguments about their supposed effect on the atmosphere. However I am not an AC technician so any information I may offer on that subject is simply stuff I am passing along. I will always make a concerted effort to filter clearly erroneous information but that filter is not 100%. This is what makes this list great. There are experts from nearly every profession who are willing to offer advice and correct faulty information given by us arm-chair types! John Brewer "Any man who would trade liberty for security deserves neither." Benjamin Franklin[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 09:52:50 -0400
From: "Dennis M. \"Doc\" Fariello" <fariello-at-inspace.net>
Subject: re: Painting FSJ Bumpers
The one-piece bumpers are chrome-plated aluminum.
>I'm thinking of painting the bumpers on my '89 Grand Wagoneer either black
>or the color of the vehicle. My question is, what are they made of or
>coated with. I don't think that they are actually chrome and I can't
>believe that they are stainless. Perhaps some kind of rhodium or vanadium
>or a combination of these? Any info on this or on what kind of preparation
>is necessary to make paint stick would be appreciated.
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|_|_____----+-----____|_|
|====|=====|=====|====|
||____|_____|_____|____||
\_____|___|DOC|___|_____/
|\/\/|--------\_/--|\/\/|
______|\/\/|_____________|\/\/|______
Home of the "Bottomless Transfer Case"
_____________________________________
email: fariello-at-inspace.net
http://www.inspace.net/~fariello/fsj
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[Back to Top]Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 09:19:39 -0500 From: brewer-at-thaad.tecmas.com (John Brewer) Subject: Re: J10 for sale >Just looking over the latest "S. Ill. Trader" & saw the following fsj's for >sale: > >'81 J10, new engine, paint, excellent body, LP conversion, snow plow, >headaches, very solid truck. $4250 618-375-5991 >(this ones only 30 minutes from me if anyone wants me to look at it). > >'66 Jeep truck, new tranny, perfect body, no rust, $1500. 618-627-4139 >(gosh, where was this one before I went to Georgia to get one??) Combine this with a low-miles, wrecked '89 GW near my house I can probably get for $1000... >'86 Wagoneer Limited, 104,000miles, loaded, 6000 tires (?), runs good, >$5000 obo >618-684-4887 > >These are all within an hours drive from me if anyones interested. > >Mike Saltsgaver. I am interested. Two questions: 1) Does a '66 have that way-cool square grille? 2) Are you offering to go take a look at it for an assessment? You know, it makes perfect sense, you drive down from Illinois to Georgia. I drive from N.Alabama to Illinois! John Brewer "Any man who would trade liberty for security deserves neither." Benjamin Franklin[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 09:27:53 -0500 From: brewer-at-thaad.tecmas.com (John Brewer) Subject: Re: longing for the old days >I've finally noticed that I can't finish anything in a hurry anymore. When >I was younger I could trade for an old car & swap in an engine or whatever & >be tooling around in it the next day. Now it seems to take longer & longer >to finish a project. Instead of fix & go, everything has turned into a >"restoration". > >Went to put the brush guard on the Laredo & noticed that maybe it'd look >better with a new coat of paint which takes a little time. > >Next I think I'll pull the bumper & grill to touch up some rock chips >that'll be hard to reach once the guard is on, but discover that there's >lots of sand packed into the joint between the front panel & bottom panel >(where the turn signal lenses are mounted. Thinking I should get that out >so the panel doesn't rust out (like both of the other trucks), I wound up >pulling the whole front panel off & pressure washing the joint out, sanding >& painting (I poured the joint full of Rustoleum rusty metal primer then >sprayed black paint on top) which takes more time out of my Sunday. > >Finally put everything back together (after polishing the grill & cleaning >the turn signal lenses) & got back to the original goal of mounting the >brush guard. >Ran into trouble when the 2 bumper bolts which have to be removed to mount >the front of the guard wanted to rotate rather than come apart (the square >hole in the aluminum bumper rounded out). Had to use vise grips to ruin the >bolt to get the nut off (someone borrowed my nut crackers & didn't return >them). > >Took a break to box up the 4.0L motor mount brackets for Tom A. & the grill >for Ashley M. Also had to snack on the leftovers from my daughter's >graduation party (junior college). > >Once the 2 bolts were out, on went the bumper plus the time to align it (a >trick in itself). Now, the time I'd been waiting for. Sonya helps me >slide the guard on and I start the 2 bolts on the frame. But wait a minute, >the 2 tabs on the front are down approx. 1&1/2" below the hole in the >bumper. ARRGGHHHH!! The rubber bumper guards are too big to let the guard >move up into position. > >So It's back to taking the bumper back off to remove the rubber guards. By >now I've scratched the paint on the front panel (which takes time to touch >up). I get 1 guard off but the other doesn't want to cooperate. The stud >on it wants to rotate instead of letting the nut come off. This time >there's nothing to grab onto so I'm stuck until I get my nut crackers back >or I find someone with a torch. The other option is to bandsaw notches into >the guards to clear the bars of the brush guard. I hate to ruin them but it >might be better than looking at the places on the bumper where the rubber >parts used to be once there both off. > >I finally gave up & washed & waxed the Wagoneer. The weather was great for >it & it took my mind off the problems with the truck. Have ya ever had one >of those days? > >Mike Saltsgaver. Have you ever seen the "Anal Retentive (Chef, Carpenter, Fisherman)" on Saturday Night Live circa 1985? That is me. I'll go to get a screw out of the parts bin and wind up totally cleaning out the garage- after I can't find the parts bin for all the toys! John Brewer "Any man who would trade liberty for security deserves neither." Benjamin Franklin[Back to Top]
Date: Sun, 18 May 1997 12:44:53 -0500 From: Jim Weisflock <mrmonk-at-basec.net> Subject: Re: help with a decision... john meister wrote: > > 1) replace the nearly departed torque converter: > lockup, retails $217, reman - jeep dealer (I'll pay 20% less) > lockup, reman some other source? > NON-lockup? what stall speed? No clue, I'd ask senior but he's out golfing in the GW. > 2) change the R&P to 3.73? or 3.55? > add ez-locker or ? to rear (leave front open) > used R&P about $85 an axle?? New $165??? or so ? > labor, probably $300 to $350 for both ends, maybe a little > less... I'd go with 3.55, they're more of an economy gear but low enough for 4 wheeling or pulling. Add a EZ locker to the rear, 3 wheel drive is better than two afterall. > 3) get edlebrock performer manifold $150 or so... Good idea. Maybe consider a cam change while you have it open that much to install the manifold. > 4) get a decent, mild, economical 4 v carb - > any suggestions? (est. $250 or so) Forget Holleys, go with a Edelbrock 4bbl. they're really awesome. For economy you'd probably want smaller jets in the primarys since that's what the motor will run off of most of the time and then have big jets in the secondaries for when you need to pass, pull or need some extra 4wheeling power, whatever. I've also heard they make a carb. where the metering pins and jets are easily swapped in and out at your leisure, so one day you could install one set for economy and the next day if you needed power you could install the power set, cool idea. I just don't know the cost of all this... > The 4.0L is a great motor, and so is the 258. But I really don't > have the time to be rewiring a rig and swapping engines. I need to > spend more time with my family, and what other time I have I should > be focusing on computer stuff and web pages... :-) Hmmmm, I'd still think the 4.0L would do just fine in an FSJ with the right gearing and tranny with OD, but that's just guessing. What do you plan to do with that motor? Maybe your other 4.0L would get better mileage if they were newer and didn't have over 100K on them... -- ____________ | /| | James R. Weisflock | / | | mrmonk-at-basec.net | / | | American Motors FrEaK and Buick fan. | / | | "Neflite" of IRC Undernet #sailormoon |/ |____| SOS: http://looney.physics.sunysb.edu/~daffy/sos/ -------------------------------------------------------------------- 1987 AMC Jeep Grand Wagoneer (360 V8 2bbl, 33" Glasspack exhaust, Cobra 40 channel CB, Uniroyal Sport King A/Ts 30x9.5x15s, Pioneer DEH-225 CD) -------------------------------------------------------------------- AMX Files: http://www.amxfiles.com/ Javelin Homepages: http://www.javelinamx.com/ My ORC page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj/weisflock.html -------------------------------------------------------------------- Buick Turbo Regal Website: http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www/buick.html -------------------------------------------------------------------- "Yes I know my enemies They're the teachers who taught me to fight me!" -Rage Against the Machine-[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 07:41:28 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> Subject: Suggestion...????? Can we "not" quote an ENTIRE message when replying, especially just to add a one line response to an already long post. Regards, -jj (with a high mileage scroll key)[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 07:56:03 -0700 From: Tom Anhalt <tanhalt-at-earthlink.net> Subject: Re: 1966 Wagoneer Test Article... john meister wrote: > > in the words of "Columbo"... > > just one more thing... > > I also put up the 1966 Wagoneer Test Article... :-) > > new on FSJ... for those that don't want to go to FSJ-tech.html, > then literature.html, > go directly to... > > http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj/wag-test.html > > later, > john Hey John, about a month or so ago I ordered a reprint of the Four Wheeler test of the '81 Cherokee Laredo. The basic gist of the test was the same as in 1966. They couldn't believe that such a capable off-roader could be so comfortable and luxurious (Power seats and windows????) They did kind of cough at the price, though. If I sent it to you, do you think you could scan it (the pictures didn't photocopy so well)? Do you need to contact Four Wheeler to get their permission to publish it? Let me know and we can start adding more to the FSJ lit section (Should we make up a required reading list?) See ya later, Tom Anhalt[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 08:01:21 -0700 From: Tom Anhalt <tanhalt-at-earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Suggestion...????? Joe Schaefer wrote: > > Can we "not" quote an ENTIRE message when replying, especially just to add > a one line response to an already long post. > > Regards, > -jj (with a high mileage scroll key) > Well, that depends. One line for Alisa is different than for the rest of us....Heck all of her posts are just one line....one long line...And if you quote one of those posts, you're just responding to a one line post, so why not quote the whole thing? (OK, OK, I'll stop....just having a little fun at the expense of Alisa. No offense intended.) ;) Tom[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 11:10:32 EDT From: versicom-at-juno.com (BRIAN D COLUCCI) Subject: Gone "Fishin" and Other Adventures Greetings to the FSJ World! A friend of mine at the local dealership has provided me with an old micro-fiche reader and a pile of old Jeep fiche. It appears that I have parts catalogs that date back to around the 74 model year; and go to the 91 model year. Some include our tiny Jeep cousins the CJ and XJ. At first glance it looks like I am missing the mid 80's I plan on going through this material this evening to see what I have. Maybe John or Doc knows of a way to convert fiche to something that we all can share? The adventure this weekend was the fact that friday night the 89 USS GW came home from its 1000 mile check up. My buddy adjusted the choke, changed the oil, and tightened up some drippy fittings. He was still unhappy that the vehicle was hard to start when warm. I did some checking with my Ford boys. I remember that in the old days with the Chrysler products that a crack in the ballast resister would cause a hard start when warm. If it would let you start at all. (Side Note, we have talked GM and Ford, who wants to talk about some REAL Motors?? LEt's see some Pentastar Passion on this list!) Anyway, I wondered If the Ford electronic ignition module might have the same type of problem on hot starts, Problem in review: Hot vehicle 1)Press and hold 1/2 throttle 2)Turn key A)Engine cranks, but does not appear to be firing 3)Release key A)Engine coughs and sputters to life Ford friend says that this is an occasional indicator that these control modules are headed south. Usually they just die. So I remove the unit from the Jeep and take it with me to Autozone. (12 year old)<grin> behind counter says that thing looks fine. I assure him it probably is not. He tells me he can test it. Decide I'll humor him and let him try. Even Ford does not have a piece of test equipment for this little hunk of pot-metal. So Jr and I go across the store to his little black box tester that is sporting a row of red LED's and a row of green ones. Jr. fabricates some connections out of a set of alligator clips. He does not even use one of wire harnesses coming off my module at all. I am gaining confidence by the minute. He turns on his black box and little lights flash red then green. Looks like a high school electronics project. Eventually all green LED's come on. Jr. says this module is good. I ask him how he plans to test the unit for a problem related to heat. He gives me a clueless look. He says it should not matter. By this point I am done with Humoring Jr. and suggest that he just sell me a new module. Take the unit home and plant it on the fender, make the connections to the Jeep nervous system. Then I hit the key. Tremendous starting power! Made numerous cruises in the USS GW all weekend and It fired up first touch of the key every time, hot or cold. The Module change was a complete success! Kept the old module just in case I am in the middle of nowhere and have a complete module failure; I can toss the old one in and at least get the chance to limp home. Until the next dimension Admiral "Coluch." End Transmission Starfleet Headquarters Ohio Post..........................................................................[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 09:11:17 +0000 From: baylosis-at-colorado.net Subject: compression and altitude Looking for some knowledge, Does altitude affect compression gauges as it does vacum gauges. If so what is the correction factor. I think the motor should still be able to create the same pressure regardless of altitude, it just may take a couple of extra strokes. Jon 10000ft 77' Chief[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 10:16:31 -0500 From: Jeff Herbst <JeffHerbst-at-electrosys.com> Subject: RE: help with a decision... >> >Cool, I have a question regarding the electric choke (I have a manual) >where do you find the wiring for the choke? Or is new wiring added? >Joe- > >I have the manifold, still deciding which carb > Joe, Mine had an electric choke already so I just used the existing wire. It is probably on your already. Check the wiring harness and look for a red wire on the passenger side. Same bundle that the coil wires come from. Jeff Herbst 1982 Wagoneer LTD > Texas[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 10:24:14 -0500 From: Jeff Herbst <JeffHerbst-at-electrosys.com> Subject: RE: U-Joint Cap screws >Grab the top of your tire and pull/push. If your wheel bearings are loose >you should feel some slop. Joe, I did this with one wheel raised and could not feel any slop. Should I raise both wheels? (I know this sounds elementary but I'm grasping here!) Jeff Herbst >[Back to Top]
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