From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Tue Nov 7 21:44:30 2000 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Tuesday, November 7 2000 Volume 01 : Number 1096 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: Front brake dust shield cracks ? fsj: Re: Nov 11th is coming fsj: ATF+ info Re: fsj: Re: Jeep Wagoneer fsj: backup light and that expensive switch... Re: fsj: RE: [1FSJ] vacuum gauges... fsj: Re: vin help for Mexico... Re: fsj: backup light and that expensive switch... Re: fsj: Click & Clack Re: [Re: fsj: Click & Clack] Re: fsj: Click & Clack Re: fsj: Click & Clack fsj: NOS stuff on EBay Re: fsj: Click & Clack FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 06 Nov 2000 21:12:50 -0600 From: Mike Dillon Subject: fsj: Front brake dust shield cracks ? Hi Guy's Just went though the front brakes on my 88 Grand Wagon, and found some interesting cracks, that I am wondering if anyone else has come across. On both sides the dust shields were cracked (one side all the way though and the other 90% + though) right along the edge where they were welded to the caliper mount. I was able to salvage the ones I have by making some 1/8" steel plates that bridged the cracks and welding them in, but am curious if any one else has had the same problem ? Mike D. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000 22:26:33 -0700 From: "Kim Smith" Subject: fsj: Re: Nov 11th is coming Lest we forget. - ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Blair" To: <1FSJ-at-egroups.com>; Sent: 06 November, 2000 20:47 Subject: fsj: Nov 11th is coming > http://www.museum.guelph.on.ca/mccraeflanders.htm > > ************************************* > JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10 EFax:603-215-1688 > http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html > ************************************** > http://www.museum.guelph.on.ca/mccraeflanders.htm ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000 22:13:10 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: fsj: ATF+ info a question came up on the ATF+3... I scanned in the latest data sheet from amsoil on the synthetic ATF, it says it's formulated to meet or exceed peformance specs for Chrysler ATF+ THROUGH ATF +4. What the dino oil version of ATF +3 is is unknown to me... but the Synthetic stuff is completely compatible. Someone mentioned something that a tranny shop said about swelling seals if you used ATF +3 in older trannies... maybe that's so, don't know (but I doubt it), but I do know that the amsoil synthetic will work in all applications, so says the specification sheet... http://www.wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/ATF/ http://www.wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/ATF/ATF-plus-1-of-2.JPG http://www.wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/ATF/ATF-plus-2-of-2.JPG ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com **** http://wagoneers.com don't leave life without Jesus, please... Snohomish, Washington USA - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Nov 2000 23:12:38 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: fsj: Re: Jeep Wagoneer this what happens when you don't have time to really read your email... :) I wonder if he'll ever email again... he'll figure I've totally lost it... which isn't too far off the mark these days. :) I guess my lift suggestions won't do him much good either... rofl... john At 08:17 PM 11/6/00 -0800, James Blair wrote: >A: Um, John, you may want to rethink your answer! I'm pretty sure he >means your '88 Wagoneer with the Cherokee-cuz-it-hit-a-tree- grill! >ROFL!! > >At 06:53 PM 11/6/00 -0500, Derek Owens wrote: >John, > I own a 1989 mid-size >Jeep Wagoneer Limited....I was looking at your web site and couldn't >help but notice the grill differences. I was wondering if it was the - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 00:07:28 -0800 From: john Subject: fsj: backup light and that expensive switch... >Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000 20:53:19 -0800 >From: "Craig Blanchette" <89xj-at-home.com> >Subject: xj: Back up light switch??? > >The back up light switch is toast on my inlaws 89 auto cherokee limited. >They tried the dealership, $600.00+ to fix. They called the auto parts >places and the best price is $389.00. CANADIAN!!! Wreckers don't carry >anything so small around here... Any suggestions from the xj guru's out >there on something to replace it or a way to fix it? > >Thanx Craig Blanchette craig, save about $550 and get an ARB/IPF backup light... I think they retail for around $55. the backup switch on my xj comes and goes... not sure what it's issue is... but since I've installed the IPF / ARB backup light I can look down at the 3-way switch and if the little green indicator isn't lit when I'm in reverse I can flip it the other way and have a back up light. I think the lights are currently retailing for about $55 US. The wiring harness is complete with relays and is all modular. It's easy to install and a far cry better than spending $600 for those dimbulbs... ;) I'm in the middle of installing two of those lights on my '83 J10, one on the roll bar, the other above the rear bumper... The one on my little wagoneer I mounted to the rear spoiler, works great. http://wagoneers.com/JEEPS/IPF/IPF-backup_lights.html and some recent pictures of the install on my J10 (and on the little wag): http://wagoneers.com/JEEPS/IPF/BACKUP-Light/ http://wagoneers.com/JEEPS/IPF/BACKUP-Light/PA280004.JPG john - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 13:28:11 -0800 (PST) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: fsj: RE: [1FSJ] vacuum gauges... A: Vacuum (manifold vacuum in this case) and engine RPM are only partially dependent on each other. Manifold vacuum is created by the suction of the open intake valve and the piston travelling down inside the cylinder (like a syringe sucking meds from a bottle). The intake valve slams closed before the cylinder is fully charged (the amount getting to the cylinder during this time is known as VE or volumetric efficiency, aka the amount of air sucked in compared to the amount that would be in the cylinder if it was open on top, with the average VE being about 65% IIRC on AMC V8s compared to 50-60% on other stock engines.) Changes in cam opening and closing times and cam lobe lift will change this figure, as well as turbo-charging and head porting of course. The 4.0L HO gets most of it's power boost from raised intake ports that give the air/fuel (A/F) a more direct path into the cylinders. Hitting the sides of the intake on corners will slow the A/F mix down, so if you machine your intake ports on the top, you'll see more VE flow increase than if you grind the bottom of the ports too, because the valve area is only so big and the A/F needs to flow as straight with the valve as possible. (This is why undercut valves are being used in more power apps now. Less blockage to air flow) Machining the heads and adding bigger valves can help in some cases, but if they come too close to the cylinder walls, then they become "shrouded", which means an area of resistance to flow develops, making LESS VE. Now with that part aside (start notes for mechanical newbies) the average engine vacuum at idle and cruise is about 18"HG (the amount of draw required to lift mercury 18" in a tube) and this is what they set the carbs to work best at for gas mileage, then work backwards from there to make the engine work at other parts of the band. It's the throttle plate that controls engine RPM (along with fuel of course, but w/o air, fuel isn't needed) When you slap that throttle down to the floor on take-off, and the manifold vacuum drops to near zero, the power valve (or metering rods in the case of the Carter) pops open and enriches the air rushing through. This is full throttle position or WOT/LRPM (wide open throttle/low RPM), and the vacuum is lowest at this point which causes poor fuel mixing and a lean condition, so they compensated for that by dumping EXTRA fuel in (even on EFI at WOT, the computer jumps over to open circuit which runs much richer and isn't controlled by the O2 sensor) At low RPMs, the fuel just puddles in the intake at WOT, because the lower the manifold vacuum is, the more fuel is dumped in by way of the power valve and the high flow of air drags even more fuel in at the same time (which is why motors can stumble when you slap the throttle down, then let it off right away, the sudden rich mix snuffs the spark. Low intake vacuum with black smoke (with the engine set at proper idle speed and timing set just below the ping threshold) usually means a bad power valve (or major vacuum leak) The closer your intake vacuum is to the magic 18" number the better (19" for the way I adjust Carters and timing on 6 cyls, which is why I squeak out close to 20 mpg) When you decelerate in gear, the manifold vacuum jumps waaay over 18" and the high vacuum sucks MORE gas down again! Like I said before, the carb and EFI were set to run best in the 18" range +/- 1" Bottom line: Keep your gauge in that magic range as much as possible and economy stays up. If I have to climb to a high speed, I start with a moderate take-off and as my RPM climbs, I accelerate more, but not more than 3/4 throttle to keep my economy good, then back off when I reach my required speed. Lower RPM in the bottom range of the power band (less than 1/2 way to shift point) is where the best fuel economy kicks in. John wrote: ok, so explain the relationship between vacuum and rpm... and what's the best for fuel economy. :) thanx, john A: One thing to keep in mind though. In the EFI set up, RPMs are what you need to control, not manifold vacuum! It makes far less difference because injection isn't as affected by the change as a carb. ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10 EFax:603-215-1688 http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 14:58:58 -0800 From: john Subject: fsj: Re: vin help for Mexico... Hey, JC... let's test out your Perl script on this one. :) john At 04:34 PM 11/7/00 -0600, Lic. Eduardo Néstor Reza Martínez wrote: >Here goes the VIN for the Bronco II : > >VIN #: 1FMCU14S0EUC22634 > >My friend has the original title missed so he wants to know how to get a >copy from the goverment or any authority in your country to get the real >history about it. > >Thanks in advance, > >Eduardo Reza >'84 GW >Torreón, MEXICO > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "john" >To: "Lic. Eduardo Néstor Reza Martínez" >Cc: >Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2000 12:10 PM >Subject: Re: vin help for Mexico... > > > > email the vin to the fsj list. I know some of the guys have > > fords and might have manuals that can help. > > > > also, carfax might be able to help... not sure what they charge. > > > > john :) > > > > > > At 11:53 AM 10/21/00 -0500, Lic. Eduardo Néstor Reza Martínez wrote: > > >Hi John, this is Eduardo Reza from Torreón, MEXICO, recently a friend >bought > > >a Bronco II 4X4 here in Mexico regularized but they have only a kind of > > >wrote which says that the original tittle was missed and he wants to know >if > > >there is any form to get a copy from it, may be through the VIN of the > > >vehicle but we don't know how or where, if there is a place n the www >could > > >be better and easier if you can help us please let me know, as always >your > > >friend in the north of Mexico, > > > > > >Eduardo Reza > > >'84 Grand Wagoneer > > >Torreón, MEXICO > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------ > > http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ > > "The truth which makes men free is for the most part > > the truth which men prefer not to hear." > > ---Herbert Sebastian Agar > > Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... > > jesus, don't leave life without him, please! > > ------------------------------------------------------- > > > > - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 14:58:34 -0800 (PST) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: fsj: backup light and that expensive switch... A: It's just an external rotating switch on the trans. If it's not quite in synche, the light can come on in the wrong position, or not at all. It's no harder to change than a Ford C4 switch from what I see on mine (I can take a pic of the one I already have out) It looks like 1 hour max time to swap if the mechanic never did it before and the exhaust is hot! I would replace it, then put a relay in (if the XJs don't already have one in '89) and hook that up to the lights to reduce the power going through the switch and lower burn out likeliehood. From: "Craig Blanchette" <89xj-at-home.com> The back up light switch is toast on my inlaws 89 auto cherokee limited. They tried the dealership, $600.00+ to fix. They called the auto parts places and the best price is $389.00. CANADIAN!!! Wreckers don't carry anything so small around here... Any suggestions from the xj guru's out there on something to replace it or a way to fix it? Thanx Craig Blanchette craig, save about $550 and get an ARB/IPF backup light... I think they retail for around $55. the backup switch on my xj comes and goes... not sure what it's issue is... but since I've installed the IPF / ARB backup light I can look down at the 3-way switch and if the little green indicator isn't lit when I'm in reverse I can flip it the other way and have a back up light. I think the lights are currently retailing for about $55 US. The wiring harness is complete with relays and is all modular. It's easy to install and a far cry better than spending $600 for those dimbulbs... ;) I'm in the middle of installing two of those lights on my '83 J10, one on the roll bar, the other above the rear bumper... The one on my little wagoneer I mounted to the rear spoiler, works great. http://wagoneers.com/JEEPS/IPF/IPF-backup_lights.html and some recent pictures of the install on my J10 (and on the little wag): http://wagoneers.com/JEEPS/IPF/BACKUP-Light/ http://wagoneers.com/JEEPS/IPF/BACKUP-Light/PA280004.JPG john ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10 EFax:603-215-1688 http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 15:15:31 -0800 (PST) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: fsj: Click & Clack A: It could be the end tabs of your brake pads popping up and down when they catch a certain sopt on the rotor (or wheel bearing cage) Lift the wheel up and spin. Put a mark on the top of the wheel when you hear the noise, and turn it about 20 more times to see if the noise is in the same spot, or moves. If it moves, then it's wheel bearing (race and axle are even, but the bearing turns at 1/2 the speed of the wheel and position of the noise moves with it) You can squeeze the end tabs on your pads so they don't move as much, and catch a groove, hopping up and down with the rotor. Mail message Help Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net From: r16884-at-email.sps.mot.com (Landon Tesar) Date: Mon, Nov 6, 2000, 12:07pm (PST+2) To: fsj-at-digest.net Subject: fsj: Click & Clack Hi, wondering about a clicking sound coming from the left front wheel well. My guess is it's the U-Joint between the front axleshaft and the wheel. Click-click-click. pretty constant speed, though doesn't seem related to road speed. Goes away when I apply the brakes. Goes away when applying a load via a rt hand turn. There doesn't seem to be a way to grease this u-joint w/o removing it. Is it time to replace ? Is this the kind of sound that would alert me to impending failure here ? I remember to be careful to not let the end bushing fall off of the inner axleshaft when removing. >From the Haynes manual, this looks like a pretty involved activity. Thanks for pointers. - - Landon '89 GW with higher problem arrival than service velocity. Austin, TX ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10 EFax:603-215-1688 http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: 7 Nov 00 16:38:04 MST From: Michael Shimniok Subject: Re: [Re: fsj: Click & Clack] In my case, didn't hear the noise with the locking hub engaged (in lock position). Hmmm... Michael Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) wrote: > A: It could be the end tabs of your brake pads popping up and down when > they catch a certain sopt on the rotor (or wheel bearing cage) Lift the > wheel up and spin. Put a mark on the top of the wheel when you hear the > noise, and turn it about 20 more times to see if the noise is in the > same spot, or moves. If it moves, then it's wheel bearing (race and axle > are even, but the bearing turns at 1/2 the speed of the wheel and > position of the noise moves with it) > You can squeeze the end tabs on your pads so they don't move as much, > and catch a groove, hopping up and down with the rotor. > > > Mail message > Help > Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net From: r16884-at-email.sps.mot.com > (Landon Tesar) Date: Mon, Nov 6, 2000, 12:07pm (PST+2) To: > fsj-at-digest.net Subject: fsj: Click & Clack > Hi, > wondering about a clicking sound coming from the left front wheel well. > My guess is it's the U-Joint between the front axleshaft and the wheel. > Click-click-click. pretty constant speed, though doesn't seem related to > road speed. > Goes away when I apply the brakes. > Goes away when applying a load via a rt hand turn. > There doesn't seem to be a way to grease this u-joint w/o removing it. > Is it time to replace ? > Is this the kind of sound that would alert me to impending failure here > ? > I remember to be careful to not let the end bushing fall off of the > inner axleshaft when removing. > From the Haynes manual, this looks like a pretty involved activity. > Thanks for pointers. > - Landon > '89 GW with higher problem arrival than service velocity. Austin, TX > > ************************************* > JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10 EFax:603-215-1688 > http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html > ************************************** - --- Michael E. Shimniok - KC0EKI - Michael.Shimniok-at-usa.net "For every complex problem, there is a solution that is simple, neat, and wrong." - H. L. Menken ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 17:43:40 -0600 From: "Landon Tesar" Subject: Re: fsj: Click & Clack Thank you, Sir. 'nuther question. Do I need to remove the window motor to replace the plastic track ? I can't get the end block past the motor gear to slide off the end of the rail. - - Landon James Blair wrote: > A: It could be the end tabs of your brake pads popping up and down when > they catch a certain sopt on the rotor (or wheel bearing cage) Lift the > wheel up and spin. Put a mark on the top of the wheel when you hear the > noise, and turn it about 20 more times to see if the noise is in the > same spot, or moves. If it moves, then it's wheel bearing (race and axle > are even, but the bearing turns at 1/2 the speed of the wheel and > position of the noise moves with it) > You can squeeze the end tabs on your pads so they don't move as much, > and catch a groove, hopping up and down with the rotor. > > > Mail message > Help > Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net From: r16884-at-email.sps.mot.com > (Landon Tesar) Date: Mon, Nov 6, 2000, 12:07pm (PST+2) To: > fsj-at-digest.net Subject: fsj: Click & Clack > Hi, > wondering about a clicking sound coming from the left front wheel well. > My guess is it's the U-Joint between the front axleshaft and the wheel. > Click-click-click. pretty constant speed, though doesn't seem related to > road speed. > Goes away when I apply the brakes. > Goes away when applying a load via a rt hand turn. > There doesn't seem to be a way to grease this u-joint w/o removing it. > Is it time to replace ? > Is this the kind of sound that would alert me to impending failure here > ? > I remember to be careful to not let the end bushing fall off of the > inner axleshaft when removing. > From the Haynes manual, this looks like a pretty involved activity. > Thanks for pointers. > - Landon > '89 GW with higher problem arrival than service velocity. Austin, TX > > ************************************* > JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10 EFax:603-215-1688 > http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html > ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 16:12:47 -0800 (PST) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: fsj: Click & Clack A: Not sure. I pulled my '84's and sold them, but didn't pay much attention as I like manual cranks (I was first to a carload of people stuck in a rollover and they couldn't get out because the battery was shorted against the hood and gas was leaking. Thank goodness I had my steel toed boots on!) I saw track on the Help rack at work that may even fit the FSJs and it was about $15. Landon wrote: Thank you, Sir. 'nuther question. Do I need to remove the window motor to replace the plastic track ? I can't get the end block past the motor gear to slide off the end of the rail. - - Landon James Blair wrote: A: It could be the end tabs of your brake pads popping up and down when they catch a certain sopt on the rotor (or wheel bearing cage) Lift the wheel up and spin. Put a mark on the top of the wheel when you hear the noise, and turn it about 20 more times to see if the noise is in the same spot, or moves. If it moves, then it's wheel bearing (race and axle are even, but the bearing turns at 1/2 the speed of the wheel and position of the noise moves with it)       You can squeeze the end tabs on your pads so they don't move as much, and catch a groove, hopping up and down with the rotor. Mail message Help Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net From: r16884-at-email.sps.mot.com (Landon Tesar) Date: Mon, Nov 6, 2000, 12:07pm (PST+2) To: fsj-at-digest.net Subject: fsj: Click & Clack Hi, wondering about a clicking sound coming from the left front wheel well. My guess is it's the U-Joint between the front axleshaft and the wheel. Click-click-click. pretty constant speed, though doesn't seem related to road speed. Goes away when I apply the brakes. Goes away when applying a load via a rt hand turn. There doesn't seem to be a way to grease this u-joint w/o removing it. Is it time to replace ? Is this the kind of sound that would alert me to impending failure here ? I remember to be careful to not let the end bushing fall off of the inner axleshaft when removing. >From the Haynes manual, this looks like a pretty involved activity. Thanks for pointers. - - Landon '89 GW with higher problem arrival than service velocity. Austin, TX ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10 EFax:603-215-1688 http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 21:25:25 -0500 From: Michael Baxter Subject: fsj: NOS stuff on EBay This is a NOS parking light lens for '74-'76 FSJs I beleive: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=490574320 &r= 0&t=0 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 20:59:34 -0600 From: JeepNut Subject: Re: fsj: Click & Clack No no you don't have to take the motor off....it's the track itself that dismounts from the assy. See the two 1/4" hex head nuts there on the track along the curve?... JeepNut Landon Tesar wrote: > Thank you, Sir. > > 'nuther question. > > Do I need to remove the window motor to replace the plastic track ? I can't > get the end block past the motor gear to slide off the end of the rail. > > - Landon > > James Blair wrote: > > > A: It could be the end tabs of your brake pads popping up and down when > > they catch a certain sopt on the rotor (or wheel bearing cage) Lift the > > wheel up and spin. Put a mark on the top of the wheel when you hear the > > noise, and turn it about 20 more times to see if the noise is in the > > same spot, or moves. If it moves, then it's wheel bearing (race and axle > > are even, but the bearing turns at 1/2 the speed of the wheel and > > position of the noise moves with it) > > You can squeeze the end tabs on your pads so they don't move as much, > > and catch a groove, hopping up and down with the rotor. > > > > > > Mail message > > Help > > Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net From: r16884-at-email.sps.mot.com > > (Landon Tesar) Date: Mon, Nov 6, 2000, 12:07pm (PST+2) To: > > fsj-at-digest.net Subject: fsj: Click & Clack > > Hi, > > wondering about a clicking sound coming from the left front wheel well. > > My guess is it's the U-Joint between the front axleshaft and the wheel. > > Click-click-click. pretty constant speed, though doesn't seem related to > > road speed. > > Goes away when I apply the brakes. > > Goes away when applying a load via a rt hand turn. > > There doesn't seem to be a way to grease this u-joint w/o removing it. > > Is it time to replace ? > > Is this the kind of sound that would alert me to impending failure here > > ? > > I remember to be careful to not let the end bushing fall off of the > > inner axleshaft when removing. > > From the Haynes manual, this looks like a pretty involved activity. > > Thanks for pointers. > > - Landon > > '89 GW with higher problem arrival than service velocity. Austin, TX > > > > ************************************* > > JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10 EFax:603-215-1688 > > http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html > > ************************************** - -- - ---------------------------------------------------------------- '87 Street Comanche #24/100 '88 Grand Wagoneer ...and they say there's only one... '92 Cherokee - ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1096 **************************