From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Wed May 2 15:38:44 2001 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Wednesday, May 2 2001 Volume 01 : Number 1303 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: [fsj: should i stick with the vac diagram under the hood/HDC CTO question] Re: [Re: [fsj: should i stick with the vac diagram under the hood/HDC CTO question]] fsj: Re: Klune V fsj: FOR SALE: MANUALS Re: fsj: should i stick with the vac diagram under the hood/HDC CTO question fsj: vehicle inspection abolished fsj: Re: fsj-digest V1 #1302 fsj: Parts for FSJ's fsj: Re: Klune V fsj: 1FSJ digest fsj: RE: Re: Klune V fsj: Re: 89 Wagoneer Limited sunroof motor/switch questions fsj: vehicles and shops... fsj: Ignition woes fsj: RE: 89 Wagoneer Limited sunroof motor/switch questions FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 18:47:44 -0500 From: bobandkara-at-juno.com Subject: Re: [fsj: should i stick with the vac diagram under the hood/HDC CTO question] Thanks for your reply. How do I determine if the rig is set up for high altitude? Judging from the vac diagram in the haynes manual, and under the hood, nothing is right. I have a cto in the back, refered to as a dual cto, with 5 ports. Its screwed into the same fitting that the heater hose is attached to, passenger side rear of the intake manifold. I only see two lines hooked to that cto. I think i should try to run the vac according to the diagram, maybe it will run better. I have been having problems with the engine sputtering upon deceleration, and not responding upon acceleration (such as slowing to turn a corner, then speeding up again, but sputters, sometimes dies or gets flooded if i pump the pedel) only does this when its cold, after running 20 min or so its fine. Bob On 1 May 2001 15:03:36 MDT Michael Shimniok writes: > Your choices are either to decipher what's done to it currently or > restore > your 86 to oem routing. The latter might be easier. You don't need > the 2nd > CTO, but I wouldn't run the spark right off ported vacuum either-- > the idea is > to run full advance when the motor's cold, and advance at idle when > it's very > hot as well (which I think is crazy, but I'm not an automotive > engineer > either). The mid-70's rigs used only one CTO and didn't use the > NLVR either. > > Honestly I'd recommend you find some different vacuum diagrams, > choose one and > build it to match that. I doubt it matters much which year-- unless > your > emissions testers are both really astute and draconian. I was > thinking of > simplifying my vacuum routing by converting to an 85 AIR diverter > (only one > valve), removing the 225+ spark advance, and a couple other > things... and/or > converting to an older style vacuum routing. If/when I get a new > motor and > EFI, I'm doing the spark advance thru the computer and tearing out > 95% of my > vacuum lines. > > Michael > > bobandkara-at-juno.com wrote: > > Hi, > > Thanks for everyones help. I have a recently purchased 86 wag 2v, > will > > be putting in a 4v from a 75 401, and a 4350 carb this weekend > (I'm a > > full time fireman and can do it while on duty---ahhhh---fringe > > benifit---but have to have everything i need, cant just take off > to > > Autozone!). My 86 is missing the air tubes, and air pump (rebuilt > from > > prev owner). The HDC CTO switch mounted in the thermostat housing > is > > missing, plugged up with a bolt. As far as I can tell from the > vac > > diagram, this not only provides vacuum to the Air Pump/Tubes > (which are > > no longer there), but also to the distibuter. This is supposed to > be a > > CTO rated at 115 degrees. Currently, the distibuter vacuum is > supplied > > by the middle front port on the carb. According to the vac > diagram, this > > is wrong (so are a lot of the other vacuum lines I noticed). > Should I > > get a new HDC CTO for the 4v intake, and just plug of the line > that would > > run to the air tubes, and run vacuum off of the HDC CTO to the > > distributer (like the diagram says to), and disconnect all the > other > > lines, and run them according to the vac diagram? Also, there is > > supposed to be a transmission solonoid in the intake of the 4v > that used > > to go to the transmission, but I won't need it on the 86, and is > supposed > > to get plugged, I guess. Does any one know where that is on the > > manifold? > > > > Thanks > > > > Jeep Rookie > > > --- > Michael E. Shimniok - KC0EKI - Michael.Shimniok-at-usa.net > "For every complex problem, there is a solution that > is simple, neat, and wrong." - H. L. Menken ------------------------------ Date: 1 May 2001 18:34:27 MDT From: Michael Shimniok Subject: Re: [Re: [fsj: should i stick with the vac diagram under the hood/HDC CTO question]] bobandkara-at-juno.com wrote: > Thanks for your reply. How do I determine if the rig is set up for high > altitude? It'll say so on the emissions sticker. > Judging from the vac diagram in the haynes manual, and under > the hood, nothing is right. I have a cto in the back, refered to as a > dual cto, with 5 ports. Its screwed into the same fitting that the > heater hose is attached to, passenger side rear of the intake manifold. That's correct. > I only see two lines hooked to that cto. That is not correct. The EGR, AIR, and spark feeds out of that, among other things that I can't recall. > I think i should try to run the vac according to the diagram, maybe it > will run better. I have been having problems with the engine sputtering > upon deceleration, and not responding upon acceleration (such as slowing > to turn a corner, then speeding up again, but sputters, sometimes dies > or gets flooded if i pump the pedel) only does this when its cold, after > running 20 min or so its fine. That makes sense cuz it sounds like you're missing the vacuum routing that would advance your spark when the engine's cold. The deceleration might be doing weird things with the vacuum advance since it's hooked directly to ported vacuum. I don't know for sure. Yah, I'd hook it up according to the 86 diagram (or whatever year your rig is)... Michael - --- Michael E. Shimniok - KC0EKI - Michael.Shimniok-at-usa.net "For every complex problem, there is a solution that is simple, neat, and wrong." - H. L. Menken ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 21:02:53 -0400 From: "Ray Drouillard" Subject: fsj: Re: Klune V Remember that even if you put a bunch of gear boxes before it, the amount of torque it has to handle is limited by traction. If you put a Ferrari engine in your Jeep (can that be done?), follow it with a six-speed, follow that by two 4:1 boxes, then follow that by a t-case and a pair of 5.25:1 axles, you'll theoretically have many thousands of foot-pounds of torque at the wheels. So... you put this thing into super low range and punch it. What happens? It jurks forward rather harshly, then creeps along with the engine bouncing off the rev limiter at less than 1 MPH. Let's say you put it on pavement, lock both axles, and use a really big chain to tie it to the rock of Gibraltar. You have four wheels spinning at less than one MPH and the engine is bouncing off the rev limiter. My point is that the hardware has to stand up to the torque that can be transmitted to the ground. Unless you bolt the wheels down, you aren't going to break anything no matter how big the engine if the drivetrain will handle the amount of traction that you have. Now, to get even more realistic: Will you be pounding it in low-low-low range? Will you be using it on pavement? This reduces your requirements considerablly. Still, I want to get a pair of those deuce-and-a-half axles that I see for sale in the 4x4 mags :) Ray Drouillard - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Shimniok" To: Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 4:41 PM Subject: fsj: Klune V > I've been thinking of doing the Klune V as well... Unless I'm misreading, the > David can only handle 550ft-lbs input which is far exceeded even by a stock > 304/TH400 in 1st gear at peak torque. The whole point is to get 3 low > ranges, > so it seems a shame to spend $1800 to get 2, then have to spend more > time/money to find a tcase with 4:1. > > Come to think of it, how many tcases, driveshafts, R&P's, and axle shafts are > strong enough to handle the kind of torque input a 2.72:1 reduction box can > dish out after being multiplied thru a 2.48:1 first gear fed by a healthy V8 > ??? Say 285 ft-lbs and the tcase will see about 1900 ft-lbs... and the > driveshafts will see 4900 ft-lbs if the tcase is 2.6:1, the axle shafts will > be fed 20300 ft-lbs from 4.10's. In the same configuration without the > crawler box, the driveshafts would see 2900 ft-lbs and the axle shafts only > 7500 ft-lbs with 4.10's. > > Hmmmm... I hope they meant the boxes will handle MOTORS of 550ft-lbs but > that's now how it's written. What about those poor folks with manual > trannies > and 7:1 granny gears?! (Your motor would have to put out no more than 185 > ft-lbs even to keep from breaking the Goliath!) > > I guess the only other answer would be to keep your engine well clear of peak > torque rpm... and hope idle torque x torque converter multiplication doesn't > break anything. :) > > Michael > > "JC Jones" wrote: > > "Differential Doctor" ... Sounds like a Jeep Proctologist.. > > > > > > Pat, I've got 4.09 gears in my J10, and 33" tires are still > > too small for those gears. I'm still revving pretty high on > > the highway, I'll eventually be going to 38.5x11.00x15 tires > > which I think will be a better match for the 4.09 gears on > > the street. I'm going to handle the super low gearing by > > running Klune V 4:1 reduction box in front of my QT (If I > > can find the adapters I need to do it). that will give me > > the following final ratios at the wheels: > > > > 1st gear : 104.28:1 > > 2nd gear : 62.23:1 > > 3rd gear : 42.05:1 > > > > In 1st gear with the Klune engaged and the QT in low range, > > that would make my crawling speed around 5.5mph at 5000rpm. > > So I would be getting maximum torque with a supercharged 401 > > (~550 lb/ft) at around 3mph. That ought to make those 38" > > Super Swamper Boggers climb over things pretty effectively. > > > --- > Michael E. Shimniok - KC0EKI - Michael.Shimniok-at-usa.net > "For every complex problem, there is a solution that > is simple, neat, and wrong." - H. L. Menken ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 21:49:59 -0500 From: Bruce and DeAnn Hoover Subject: fsj: FOR SALE: MANUALS I've sold my '84 Grand Wagoneer and have for sale the following manuals: MR-253 G Wagoneer/truck mech repair manual MR-256 G Wagoneer/truck Body repair manual '84-'85 G Wagoneer/truck wiring diagram paid $63 in '98, asking $40. obo All manuals like NEW! please call 913.782.8205, or e:mail bnhoover-at-worldnet.att.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 00:28:09 EDT From: RKH911-at-aol.com Subject: Re: fsj: should i stick with the vac diagram under the hood/HDC CTO question > My 86 is missing the air tubes > > I picked up the pass side at the dealer <1 yr ago for ~35 bucks. Try there. > Rob Harrison 85 Grand Wagoneer ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 09:37:47 -0500 From: Brian Wall Subject: fsj: vehicle inspection abolished FYI. It's now official... not that any of you outside of OKLA are affected by the change, but since this was a recent topic on the list I just thought some of you may be interested. Oklahoma ends vehicle inspections 2001-05-02 >From the Daily Oklahoman Thousands of Oklahomans will be $4 richer this fall when vehicle inspections become a thing of the past. Gov. Frank Keating signed House Bill 1081 into law Tuesday, abolishing vehicle inspections in Oklahoma. The law goes into effect Aug. 25. ³The annual vehicle inspection process has outlived its time,² Keating said. ³Itıs time for the state of Oklahoma to remove this requirement.² Keating said the inspections are no longer needed because of safety features on todayıs vehicles. An billıs author, Sen. Glenn Coffee, R-Oklahoma City, said the state will save $12 million by getting rid of the law. ³Iım very happy that weıve been able to repeal this outdated requirement. There are too many hassles and expenses to deal with day to day as it is. Iım sure the majority of Oklahomans will be thrilled that weıve done away with this one,² Coffee said. Coffee said a majority of states have already abolished vehicle inspections because the federal law mandating them was repealed. The House passed the bill, 67-32, last week, but not without criticism that vehicles would be less safe. Rep. James Dunegan, D-Calera, voiced concern about the $230,000 loss the state Department of Public Safety would suffer by having to buy back unused safety inspection stickers. But author Richard Phillips, R-Oklahoma City, assured him the department would save more than $700,000 now being committed to inspections and that most of the stickers would be used by the time the law goes into effect. One dollar of the $5 inspection fee is divided among the Oklahoma Law Enforcement Retirement Fund, the state general fund and a fund to help the Department of Public Safety replace vehicles. The $1 fee amounts to $2.71 million a year. The new law adds $1 to annual motor vehicle tag fees to make up the loss. Earlier in the legislative session, the House considered a bill to increase the cap of vehicle inspection fees from $5 to a maximum of $12. By the time the bill made it out of the House, lawmakers had eliminated the fee altogether. That bill, which provided no alternative for the lost state revenue, died in the Senate. Lt. Chris West, a Department of Public Safety spokesman, said about 20 percent of collisions occurred because of unsafe vehicles when inspections became law in the late 1960s. Now the rate is down to less than 5 percent. Phillips said mandated inspections have not been shown to increase safety or reduce accidents and injuries. ³Furthermore, it was becoming more and more difficult to find a garage willing to do the inspections because, financially, it isnıt worth their time.² ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 09:52:07 -0500 From: Brian Wall Subject: fsj: Re: fsj-digest V1 #1302 For new woodgrain visit the automotive section at: http://www.sharpline.com Here's the blurb from their site... "Sharpline offers a limited selection of OEM woodgrain vinyl for those people who are restoring exterior woodgrain decals on older station wagons, minivans and Jeep Wagoneers. This woodgrain vinyl is the same 3M DiNoc material used by the OEMs." Call and ask for a free sample to match your color/pattern. One of my samples was a perfect match and I plan on re-paneling soon. I don't think there's an aftermarket mfr of back seat head rests. Sorry. Hope this helps. - -------------- Brian Wall Oklahoma City 86 GW-Mystery Machine - ---------- > From: owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net (fsj-digest) > Reply-To: fsj-at-digest.net > Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 18:51:09 -0400 > To: fsj-digest-at-digest.net > Subject: fsj-digest V1 #1302 > > Date: 1 May 2001 10:19:31 MDT > From: Michael Shimniok > Subject: Re: [Re: fsj: woog grain sides repair and headrests for the back > seat] > > You can probably still find the woodgrain. I remember someone posting the > info on another list awhile back. No idea how to do headrests for the back > bench. You'd probably have to get pretty creative... > > Paul & Megan Kershner wrote: >> Woodgrain peeling? Who has woodgrain that's not? >> Headrests? Who has headrests! >> >> pk >> '84 'Peeling Woodgrain, Headrest-less' GW >> >> bobandkara-at-juno.com wrote: >>> >>> Hi, >>> >>> I have some peeling of the wood decal on the side of my GW, any ideas? I >>> thought of trying to paint a grain in the spots. Also, without headrests >>> in the back seat., it's somewhat uncomfortable. Anyone hear of an >>> aftermarket headrest, or maybe swapping the whole seat? >>> >>> Thanks ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 10:15:41 -0700 From: Pat Hines Subject: fsj: Parts for FSJ's I have a catalog from "4Wheel Drive Hardware" whcih lists many engine parts for our FSJ's, both V8 and I6's. Here's a few: 1. V8 timing cover...............................8129373..................$239.95 2. Rocker arm kit................................MRK5442....................14.95 (includes two rockers, pivots, & bridge) 3. Urethane engine mounts black V8..100373.....................79.99 I6..........................................550100225..................69.99 above available in red as well 4. Mopar fuel injection kit I6.............P5249686................2069.95 above is fairly complete for original carbed engines 5. Mopar replacement distributor I6..83506286K.............119.95 for V8's..................................P4529684...............109.95 6. MSD billet distributor for I6..............8516.........................329.95 Note that the catalog from this company is almost exclusively for Jeep CJ's and their progeny, but as everyone knows many engine parts are interchangeable with those on the FSJ. Worth a look. Online at http://www.4wd.com Pat Hines ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 13:59:41 -0400 From: "Ray (lists)" Subject: fsj: Re: Klune V BTW, What is a Klune V? Ray ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 13:10:47 -0500 From: Roy Kesmodel Subject: fsj: 1FSJ digest Anyone else having trouble with the 1FSJ-at-yahoogroups.com digest? I haven't received one since #837 4/30/01. Roy '82 FSJ Cherokee Laredo 'Tank' '79' Olds Toronado 'Old Whitey' '83' Buick Regal Estate Wagon 'Brick' {recently deceased} ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 11:58:25 -0600 From: "JC Jones" Subject: fsj: RE: Re: Klune V Klune V is a company that makes an "Extreme Underdrive Gear Box". It's an additional reduction unit that goes between the transmission and the transfer case. They have 2 different basic models to choose from. http://www.klunev.com/ *============================================* * JC Jones * * 76 Wagoneer (Road Warrior) - Retired * * 84 Grand Wagoneer (Eeyore) * * 79 J10 (Max) - In Development * * http://www.wagoneer.net * *============================================* > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-fsj-at-digest.net > [mailto:owner-fsj-at-digest.net]On Behalf Of Ray > (lists) > Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 12:00 PM > To: Ray Drouillard; fsj-at-digest.net > Subject: fsj: Re: Klune V > > > BTW, What is a Klune V? > > > Ray ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 12:05:33 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: fsj: Re: 89 Wagoneer Limited sunroof motor/switch questions well, it sounds like you have the big "Grand" Wagoneer, right? in which case the switch for the sunroof is in the right location. My '81 had the same setup... I can't recall if my sunroof worked with the switch on or off... I know my mercedes sunroof requires the key on... this isn't good if my wife is sitting in the car waiting for me with the roof open and it starts to rain... ;) You could probably find the wire in the fuse panel and put an additional switch in there as an override, but then you might forget to turn that off too... You could move the wire to a accessories connection, but then you'd have to have the key to close the sunroof... However, if you have an XJ style, downsized WAgoneer limited, then I'm clueless since I thought they only came with the poptop sunroofs and this must be an aftermarket roof. On Wed, 2 May 2001 john_bishop-at-agilent.com wrote: >-->Hello, John, >--> >-->I have a 1989 Jeep Wagoneer Limited, with an electric sunroof. I'm not sure >-->if the sunroof is stock or not (I'm the second or third owner), but the >-->switch for it is in a spot where the driver's side visor hits it when the >-->visor is swung up out of the way. Given my (a) limited brain, and (b) >-->limited hearing (to match the Limited), I have pushed the visor up into the >-->switch and not noticed the noise of the motor sliding the sunroof toward the >-->front. I did it the day before yesterday, and now the motor doesn't react >-->to the switch (it's wired to work even when the key is off). It drained the >-->battery all the way down, too. >--> >-->My questions: >-->Do you know if the stupidity-amplifying switch position is stock, or common? >-->Any known fixes, like a guard, or relocation? >-->Where is the motor located, and how might one get to it (my shop manual >-->doesn't cover it at all, and the owner's manual only mentions a manual, >-->removable sunroof)? >--> >-->If you can answer these or point me to someone who could, I'd appreciate it >-->very much. >--> >-->Thanks, >--> >-->John >-->Cazadero, CA >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux **** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://junkscience.com ** http://snopes.com ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA ...don't leave life without Jesus, please... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 12:19:41 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: fsj: vehicles and shops... to those that care... and if you don't, the delete key is just above the cursor pad. ;) it looks like I'm going to keep my '83 300sd, going to go with the european lights and maybe 15" wheels. Also going to install my Racor filter setup so I don't experience the woes of clogged injectors again. It's running strong and I'm getting 24 to 25 mpg in town. Not bad for a car that's longer then my J10. :) I'm passing on two cheap deals on a CJ7 and another XJ. :) It's hard, but a guy just has to say no sometimes... ;) my son has decided he wants my '67 J-100 Panel and I may work a 50/50 deal with him on it. My friend let me know it'll be a while before it comes home though, not a problem. It's in good hands and it'll turn out splendidly. :) Besides, having it at his house means my wife doesn't see it... :) My son decided he'll use the panel while he's restoring his '67 Fairlane. :) I think I'm going to yank the engine out of the '96 xj sooner than planned, anyone up around Seattle have an engine stand I can borrow for a few months? I may try to use the brake booster from the '96 in my '88 to improve braking. But I'm gonna expedite the disposal of the hulk. Trying to clean up around my side of the yard... it's outta control right now. :) SuperDawg will get rolled into the new shop as soon as I seal the floor. Talked with the concrete guy and he thinks I'll be able to seal it up earlier than first thought. :) I'll be heading to honolulu the last week of this month for a unix security conference... I'm gonna try and get the shop sealed before then. keeping busy... seems to be what I do without trying... ;) john ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux **** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://junkscience.com ** http://snopes.com ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA ...don't leave life without Jesus, please... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 14:47:04 -0500 From: "Landon Tesar" Subject: fsj: Ignition woes Hi, I left my ignition on in the '89 GW. I've done the upgrade to TFI coil, with a relay that applies 12 volts. It toasted the coil. Bought a new coil. Ran fine for two days, now no spark. I replaced the ignition module. Still need to check: 12V to the ignition module, resistance at pickup coil, continuity in a few places. Any other pointers ? - - Landon '89 GW Austin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 12:48:03 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: fsj: RE: 89 Wagoneer Limited sunroof motor/switch questions On Wed, 2 May 2001 john_bishop-at-agilent.com wrote: >-->Thanks for the reply, John. I think, after talking with an installer at a >-->sunroof place, that it might be aftermarket. He says if it's wired to >-->always be hot, the owner either asked for it to be set up that way, or >-->somebody goofed. He also said it's not uncommon to burn out a motor in a >-->sunroof in a car this old. >--> >-->Mine is registered as a Grand Wagoneer, but it says "Limited" on the side. it isn't a Grand if it doesn't say Grand on the side of an '89. Look underneath, does it have a frame? look under the hood, is it a V8 or an inline fuel injected 6? no frame, not a grand, no v8, not a grand. >-->It's a Cherokee by another name, as far as I can tell. When I go to the >-->parts store and tell them it's a Grand Wagoneer, nothing lines up. When I >-->tell them it looks like a Cherokee, suddenly they can find the right parts. >--> >-->I appreciate you taking the time to reply, even though it's not a Full Size >-->Jeep. Does it make a difference that I have a 1950 Jeepster in the >-->driveway? not a full size jeep either... ;) but still cool. An old VJ. :) john >--> >-->Thanks again, >--> >-->John >--> >-->-----Original Message----- >-->From: john [mailto:john-at-virtual-cafe.com] >-->Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 12:06 PM >-->To: john_bishop-at-agilent.com >-->Cc: full size jeep list >-->Subject: Re: 89 Wagoneer Limited sunroof motor/switch questions >--> >--> >--> >--> well, it sounds like you have the big "Grand" Wagoneer, right? >-->in which case the switch for the sunroof is in the right location. >-->My '81 had the same setup... I can't recall if my sunroof worked with >-->the switch on or off... I know my mercedes sunroof requires the key on... >-->this isn't good if my wife is sitting in the car waiting for me with the >-->roof open and it starts to rain... ;) >--> >-->You could probably find the wire in the fuse panel and put an additional >-->switch in there as an override, but then you might forget to turn that off >-->too... You could move the wire to a accessories connection, but then you'd >-->have to have the key to close the sunroof... >--> >-->However, if you have an XJ style, downsized WAgoneer limited, then I'm >-->clueless since I thought they only came with the poptop sunroofs and this >-->must be an aftermarket roof. >--> >-->On Wed, 2 May 2001 john_bishop-at-agilent.com wrote: >--> >-->>-->Hello, John, >-->>--> >-->>-->I have a 1989 Jeep Wagoneer Limited, with an electric sunroof. I'm not >-->sure >-->>-->if the sunroof is stock or not (I'm the second or third owner), but the >-->>-->switch for it is in a spot where the driver's side visor hits it when >-->the >-->>-->visor is swung up out of the way. Given my (a) limited brain, and (b) >-->>-->limited hearing (to match the Limited), I have pushed the visor up into >-->the >-->>-->switch and not noticed the noise of the motor sliding the sunroof toward >-->the >-->>-->front. I did it the day before yesterday, and now the motor doesn't >-->react >-->>-->to the switch (it's wired to work even when the key is off). It drained >-->the >-->>-->battery all the way down, too. >-->>--> >-->>-->My questions: >-->>-->Do you know if the stupidity-amplifying switch position is stock, or >-->common? >-->>-->Any known fixes, like a guard, or relocation? >-->>-->Where is the motor located, and how might one get to it (my shop manual >-->>-->doesn't cover it at all, and the owner's manual only mentions a manual, >-->>-->removable sunroof)? >-->>--> >-->>-->If you can answer these or point me to someone who could, I'd appreciate >-->it >-->>-->very much. >-->>--> >-->>-->Thanks, >-->>--> >-->>-->John >-->>-->Cazadero, CA >-->>--> >--> >--> ---- >--> >-->------------------------------------------------------------------------- >--> ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux **** http://wagoneers.com ** >-->** http://junkscience.com ** http://snopes.com ** http://freegift.net ** >--> Snohomish, Washington USA ...don't leave life without Jesus, please... >-->------------------------------------------------------------------------- >--> >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux **** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://junkscience.com ** http://snopes.com ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA ...don't leave life without Jesus, please... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1303 **************************