From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Mon May 7 09:24:57 2001 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Sunday, May 6 2001 Volume 01 : Number 1309 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: jay's J3000 Re: fsj: Blazer Re: fsj: 67 J3000 Bed rebuild.... fsj: 79 Wag neutral safety switch fsj: Re: Do I need insulator between Carb and Manifold? Re: fsj: the aftermath... parts galore! Re: fsj: first time rebuilding carb fsj: Re: 67 J3000 Bed rebuild.... Re: fsj: 67 J3000 Bed rebuild.... RE: fsj: first time rebuilding carb fsj: trans/t-cases... Re: fsj: 67 J3000 Bed rebuild.... fsj: FSJ Express fsj: Ignition fixed, and brakes soln Re: fsj: 67 J3000 Bed rebuild.... Re: fsj: trans/t-cases... fsj: Re: Website fsj: The definitive answer for OD TH400 replacement fsj: Re: possible Brake solution fsj: J3000 for sale..In Port angeles i believe.. fsj: Re: trans upgrade fsj: FSXJ Project. FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 10:18:35 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: jay's J3000 A flatbed would be very cool. There was a guy in Boise with a J-truck that he was giving away, the box wasn't much better than yours, but between the two you might be able to build a good one. Check with Olympic 4x4 too... they may have an old bed that will work. Save the old bed regardless of what you do.... hey, we still need to get together, I've got a bunch of parts for you that need to clear outta here, and of course that silly paperwork with the state too... It's 10am, I think the DMV closes around 3, so hop on a ferry... I'll be outside... with cordless. :) john - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 11:17:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: Blazer A: How do you mean compatible? It's not a bolt-in by any means (requires trans and mount adapters that are home-made or AA, linkages, wiring, exhaust, etc) If you found a newer one (not sure what year GM switched to driver's side diff, if at all) with NP transfercase, you could alter the mounts, etc to accept the whole drivetrain, but if the front shaft is still passenger's side, you would need the front axle (if the ratio matches your rear one. If not, swapping the rear axle in would work too, but you might have to move spring pads, and it's 2" wider than a WT Cherokee!) From: Grtdaneguy-at-aol.com   I have the opportunity to get my hands on a rebuilt 1979 blazer engine. It is a 350 with a holley intake and carb. Will it be compatible with my 81 wagon does anyone know??? Is it worth the effort or should I leave it alone? Joe ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10 4.6L, O/D auto on LPG, '86 Comanche with AMC 4 cyl, 5 speed http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 11:22:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: 67 J3000 Bed rebuild.... A: One of the sites posted had replacement bed floors for $100 or so. From: "Jay Smellow" After acquiring the J3000 from john, Ive been doing some body work to the bed sidepanels, and pan. In stripping off the paint, primer, and gunk, Ive found that the bed pan is not welded to the sidepanels, but.. instead laid in with a rubber gasket separating the two. As i unconvered things, I found the bed pan is extensively pitted, and may have been treated with a Rust converter, or some such prior to being repainted.   while that has saved much of the pan there is still extensive rust damage. On the side panels... There is quite a bit of rust damage, with holes at all four corners. I'd like to rebuild them, but the gasket area is unreachable in most cases, and i'd have to Dissasemble the entire bed to get it done right.. My query is, simply.. Should i attempt to salvage the bed? or should i replace the entire bed assembly with a homemade flatbed setup. Both will cost about the same.. in the long run.. Jay ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10 4.6L, O/D auto on LPG, '86 Comanche with AMC 4 cyl, 5 speed http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 13:17:20 -0500 From: Ken Gaines Subject: fsj: 79 Wag neutral safety switch Fellow FSJ-er's... A friend of mine is installing an AMC 401 and GM TH-400 combo in a 85 J-10. He needs the wiring diagram for the detent switch and the neutral safety switch. Could one of you please help him (us) out and email a copy of that to me? This is all he needs to get this machine on the road/beach. Thanks, Ken ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 14:29:29 EDT From: Brazzadog-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: Re: Do I need insulator between Carb and Manifold? >Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 09:09:26 -0500 >From: bobandkara-at-juno.com > >I'm putting on a 4300 carb on a 75 intake manifold, and the guys at the >parts store say I should have an insulator plate, apparently a piece of >plastic between the carb and mannifold. I don't have this piece. Do I >need it? Can I use a spacer instaed, or some other substituute? You probably need it both as an insulator and to provide linkage clearance above the manifold. Probably either 3/4" or 1" thick would work fine. IIRC, the 4300 is a garden variety square bore carb. That means that you should find many options available from Summit, Jegs, PAW, etc. As you shop, bear in mind that wood makes a better insulator than plastic which makes a better insulator than aluminum. Ben Williams '71 Wagoneer '78 F-250 4x4 '88 Bronco ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 11:30:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: the aftermath... parts galore! A: If I didn't have a FSJ under way, I'd like to score the whole works to put on my Comanche to make it 4x4! (it came stock with 4.10, and I can score front and rear for $100 each, but the Aussie bullbar would look sharp on there! ) From: john Ok, I'm sitting here with dozens of projects already... My wife is doing great, but the little wagoneer sits here with a small fortune in aftermarket parts... What do I do??? Do I swap stock parts back on and let them haul it away after I get a fair price? Do I buy it back and fix it so it's driveable and sell it? (I have the '67 Panel for hard core wheeling and no place to park all these extra vehicles... the wife is already asking when the '96 xj will leave... (she's very tolerant of my projects, I'm very blessed to have such a wonderful wife, but I also need to do everything I can to keep her happy, and happy is not having a bunch of vehicles sitting around... ;) Do I buy it back and part it and strip it and scrap it? Are there enough parts on this thing to make it worth my while??? Is anyone interested in the Dana30/35 with 4.10's, True Trac/Trac lock??? ( If so make me an offer and plan on swapping the axles from the '96 under the little wagoneer so it's rollable... I think the bill for the bearings, ring & pinion and TADs came to over $2k... Of course I don't expect that much and the d35 may be bent in the rear... I'll check it today. ) The OME lift has a damaged right rear spring... I think the rear springs alone are only about $150 for the pair, right? The shocks will find their way to SuperDawg, they are awesome... which means I may sell my Rancho 9000s from my J10. The things I need to complete my swap project I can take and replace with cores I have laying around. A/C compressor, fan, shroud, and that's about it... I talked to Mark about using the little wagoneer driveline in the Panel, he pointed out that the 232 in the Panel has less than 30,000 miles on it... good point... And, I've already got a better driveline for my J10 in the '96. That engine has lower miles and more power. The little wagoneer has a new timing chain and seals, but it does have 210,000 miles on it... the '96 only about 108,000.... The Aussie Bull Bar will stay here no matter what. Once it's determined we're not getting another XJ it'll be for sale.   The IPF lights will find their way to my other vehicles. :) You know what gets me is that I had already mailed the check for the Euro lights for my 300SD... I could have taken the IPF lights and put them on my Benz... oh well... the euro lights will look so much better. Anybody up in the Seattle area drop on by. I'll be loading metal, old parts and what not in my trailer, those items are free for the taking. I'll set up a pallet of parts that will be for sale. Have Benz, XJ and FSJ parts. I'll be working on my shop all day today and hopefully tomorrow afternoon. ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10 4.6L, O/D auto on LPG, '86 Comanche with AMC 4 cyl, 5 speed http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 21:54:50 -0500 From: Cyber Phoenix Subject: Re: fsj: first time rebuilding carb The float should come with the kit. yes,.. it should be replaced just to be on the safe side.. Watch out for little ball bearings called check valves.. they tend to drop out as you turn it over and roll away to never never land.. The kit should have a set of instructions in the box as well.. R.J. 80 J-10 Honcho bobandkara-at-juno.com wrote: > Hi Guys, > > Tomorrow I plan on rebuilding my first carb, a motorcraft 4300. Can > anyone give me some pointers/tricks of the trade? Should I replace the > float at the same time? > > Thanks > > Bob ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 22:53:58 EDT From: Brazzadog-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: Re: 67 J3000 Bed rebuild.... >Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 17:49:12 -0700 >From: "Jay Smellow" > >My query is, simply.. Should i attempt to salvage the bed? or should i >replace the entire bed assembly with a homemade flatbed setup. Both will >cost about the same.. in the long run.. I vote to save the bed. There are fewer every day and any that can be saved should be. About 10 years ago I ditched the original bed on my '78 F-250 in favor of one from an '87. It's alot more functional ('cause it's not rusted to pieces), but the body style is different and I often wish I'd spent the money to fix up the original. If I ever find a good bed that matches the '78 body style I'll be switching back. Save the flat beds for the hopeless cases and the oil patch. Ben Williams '71 Wagoneer '78 F-250 4x4 '88 Bronco ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 22:13:20 -0500 From: Cyber Phoenix Subject: Re: fsj: 67 J3000 Bed rebuild.... This place had a Bed.. http://www.omix-ada.com/memberscatalog/catalog.html R.J. jim blair wrote: > A: One of the sites posted had replacement bed floors for $100 or so. > > From: "Jay Smellow" > > After acquiring the J3000 from john, Ive been doing some body work to > the bed sidepanels, and pan. In stripping off the paint, primer, and > gunk, Ive found that the bed pan is not welded to the sidepanels, but.. > instead laid in with a rubber gasket separating the two. > As i unconvered things, I found the bed pan is extensively pitted, and > may have been treated with a Rust converter, or some such prior to being > repainted. while that has saved much of the pan there is still > extensive rust damage. > On the side panels... There is quite a bit of rust damage, with holes at > all four corners. I'd like to rebuild them, but the gasket area is > unreachable in most cases, and i'd have to Dissasemble the entire bed to > get it done right.. > My query is, simply.. Should i attempt to salvage the bed? or should i > replace the entire bed assembly with a homemade flatbed setup. Both will > cost about the same.. in the long run.. > Jay > > ************************************* > JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10 4.6L, O/D auto on LPG, '86 Comanche with > AMC 4 cyl, 5 speed http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html > ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 22:45:16 -0500 From: Ken Gaines Subject: RE: fsj: first time rebuilding carb Pointers? Here are a few. Get yourself a BIG tub of carb cleaner...preferably the 5 gallon can type of tub. You will be happy that you did. While you are getting that can of carb cleaner, go ahead and get a few new vacuum port caps as you will almost certainly be in need of them. If you are lucky, you won't need the little angle gauge thingy that most kit instructions call for. The best way I have found to set float level height is to find a machinist's rule and use that as a straight edge. You can't go wrong there. Last, but not least...make sure you clean the WHOLE carb VERY well. Cleaning the venturis is a MUST-DO item. Without a thorough cleaning, your rebuild is a waste of time. Make sure you tighten the whole thing from the inner screws out. This will keep you from warping the air horn and throttle body assemblies. Good luck. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 02:17:45 EDT From: FourXDave-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: trans/t-cases... y'know, there is another option if a guy has his heart absolutely set on a 2WD trans for his 4x4... Advance Adapters still has a few kits available to turn the Dana18 and 20 transfer cases into divorced units... i have the part numbers somewhere nearby, but it is not hard for the right guy at AA to find them... i have this thing about doing a little wagoneer with a Mercedes 300 turbo.. a 240D 4 speed, a Dana 20 case (big shaft) converted to a Dana 18 offset style.. with a 3.15 low-range.. and a set of non-wide-track FSJ offset Dana 44's......... the dana 20 was converted to divorced use for lots of mini-pickup 4x4 conversions in the 70's (wolverine, etc) DAB<>< ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 00:48:05 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: 67 J3000 Bed rebuild.... A: I couldn't find it? From: cyberphoenix-at-qwestonline.com (Cyber Phoenix) This place had a Bed.. http://www.omix-ada.com/memberscatalog/catalog.html ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10 4.6L, O/D auto on LPG, '86 Comanche with AMC 4 cyl, 5 speed http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 10:03:05 -0500 From: "Landon Tesar" Subject: fsj: FSJ Express I was just concerned that we could build a realistic network...don't know if there is such a package. - - Landon > Just out of curiosity, is there actually a package needing to be > transported for this "FSJ Express", or are we just pinging (in the > network sense, not in the engine sense) in the dark? ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 10:18:53 -0500 From: "Landon Tesar" Subject: fsj: Ignition fixed, and brakes soln 1. Thanks to everyone who helped out on the ignition situation. The ignition switch was a goose chase, though I did learn a lot. Very mechanical in nature. Replaced the module, and it fired up after turning over once. Noticed some parts stores are offering lifetime replacement warranties on the things - pretty competitive. Lesson: Don't leave the ignition turned on. Two maybe related results of inspecting the ignition switch - the light for the transmission selector PRNDL guide does not. and, I have a grey lead leaving the steering wheel wire set, with a ring connector at the end. I don't know where to connect it.... I know, I'll do the Jim Blair fix - run 12V to it directly from the battery. :) 2. Think I've figured out why the brakes are pulling to the left under light braking, but straight under heavy braking. The piston is binding in the passenger rear wheel cylinder. There was heavy pitting last time I was in there, so makes sense. will replace both cylinders and let you know. - - Landon '89 GW Austin > Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 18:23:11 EDT > From: FourXDave-at-aol.com > Subject: fsj: more ignition! > > ah haaaaa!! i just re-read that ignition post he gets A spark when key goes > from off to start, and then a spark and a sneeze out of the engine when > shutting off!! bad box, usually, no trigger maybe... it helps to > read EVERY word :) <>< DAB ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 10:22:59 -0500 From: "Landon Tesar" Subject: Re: fsj: 67 J3000 Bed rebuild.... Jay, I think the value and beauty of these vehicles is to respect the original design whenever possible.. I suggest you try to rebuild/replace the bed. Easily said, as it's not my problem. - - Landon ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 10:43:00 -0500 From: Cyber Phoenix Subject: Re: fsj: trans/t-cases... You really need to talk to John M.. He has been wanting that same set up like you for years..! R.J. 80 J-10 Honcho FourXDave-at-aol.com wrote: > y'know, there is another option if a guy has his heart absolutely set on a > 2WD trans for his 4x4... Advance Adapters still has a few kits available to > turn the Dana18 and 20 transfer cases into divorced units... i have the part > numbers somewhere nearby, but it is not hard for the right guy at AA to find > them... i have this thing about doing a little wagoneer with a Mercedes 300 > turbo.. a 240D 4 speed, a Dana 20 case (big shaft) converted to a Dana 18 > offset style.. with a 3.15 low-range.. and a set of non-wide-track FSJ > offset Dana 44's......... the dana 20 was converted to divorced use for > lots of mini-pickup 4x4 conversions in the 70's (wolverine, etc) > DAB<>< ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 08:59:06 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: Re: Website I don't know of any XJ TurboDiesels right now, but if I found one I'd probably buy it right now since the little wagoneer was totalled last week... :) I think the 5.7L Olds would work nicely in a 71 Wag, but only if the 5.7L is the targetmaster engine, or an 83 or newer one. Make sure it has the roller lifter cam and the beefed up bottom end. passing this to a couple lists to see if any one know of a Cherokee TD. :) john At 12:35 AM 5/6/01 -0500, Chuck Ranum wrote: >Love your site! God Bless you for speaking the truth about Jesus! >I'm thinking about dropping a 5.7 Olds diesel into a '71 Wag, if I can't >find a turbo-diesel XJ. Know anyone that has one for sale? >-Chuck "Chuck Ranum" >'78 Cherokee "The Old Dog" >'71 Wagoneer "Rustasaurus" >'94 Grand Cherokee "Honey" > - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 09:18:25 -0700 From: Pat Hines Subject: fsj: The definitive answer for OD TH400 replacement FSJ'ers, I've seen discussions of a replacement overdrive transmission but an unaweare of the reaching of a definitive answer. My next major mechanical project on my '79 Cherokee Chief will be transmission related. Either I rebuild the TH400, or replace it with an overdrive unit. Frankly, since I've installed 4.10 gears I think that the overdrive unit will be the deal, enabling me to cruise with acceptable rpm's on the highway and have the benefit of these gears when I need it. The Jeep is not my daily driver, it's reserved for utilty, hunting, and soon to be off road use. Which transmission should I select, assuming Advance Adapters can fix me up with any adapters I need to mate my chosen transmission to the Jeep/AMC engine? And please, NO Chrysler suggestions. Pat ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 09:06:59 -0700 From: Pat Hines Subject: fsj: Re: possible Brake solution Landon Tesar wrote: > > 1. Thanks to everyone who helped out on the ignition situation. The > ignition switch was a goose chase, though I did learn a lot. Very > mechanical in nature. Replaced the module, and it fired up after > turning over once. Noticed some parts stores are offering lifetime > replacement warranties on the things - pretty competitive. Lesson: > Don't leave the ignition turned on. > Two maybe related results of inspecting the ignition switch - the light > for the transmission selector PRNDL guide does not. and, I have a grey > lead leaving the steering wheel wire set, with a ring connector at the > end. I don't know where to connect it.... > I know, I'll do the Jim Blair fix - run 12V to it directly from the > battery. :) > > 2. Think I've figured out why the brakes are pulling to the left under > light braking, but straight under heavy braking. The piston is binding > in the passenger rear wheel cylinder. There was heavy pitting last > time I was in there, so makes sense. will replace both cylinders and > let you know. The usual cause of this braking problem is the brake hoses. When they age the internal diameter is reduced to the point of restricting flow rates through the hose. This aging process occurs unevenly among the four brakes. This means that under light braking one caliper with a better hose works as intended, but the one with the more deteriorated hose flows less until you really stomp on the brakes then the lagging piston functions more or less normally. I had exactly the same problem on my '72 BMW CSi Coupe, it was remedied by replacing all the hoses and a complete system bleed via pressure bleeder. I bought my pressure bleeder from http://www.motiveproducts.com. Pat Hines ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 09:58:57 -0700 From: "Jay Smellow" Subject: fsj: J3000 for sale..In Port angeles i believe.. JEEP PU FOR SALE 1968 JEEP J3000 PU LONG BED RUNS GOOD FOUR WHEEL DRIVE. JEEP 327 V8 3 SPD GOOD SHAPE RUNS GOOD. GOOD FOR RESTORE. $850.00 457-4662 Submitted: 4/8/01 by bravah-at-tenforward.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 13:06:56 EDT From: Brazzadog-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: Re: trans upgrade >Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 16:12:06 -0400 >From: "Ray (lists)" > >Does anyone know anything about the NP203 full-time case? Is it sturdy? >What is the low range ratio? For strength, the NP 203 is the next best thing to the NP 205. I believe it was intended to be the full-time version of the part-time NP 205. In the early '70s Dodge and GM used it in place of the NP 205 in most 1/2 and 3/4 tons before switching to aluminum cased units in the '80s. It has a cast iron case and chain drive. The low range ratio is 2:1 (same as Dana 20). Ben Williams '71 Wagoneer '78 F-250 4x4 '88 Bronco ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 13:20:48 -0600 From: "JC Jones" Subject: fsj: FSXJ Project. I was doing some measuring and it looks like the FSXJ Project "Junior" will be easier that I had originally thought. As it turns out, the XJ wheelbase is almost exactly 8" shorter which I can take care of by moving the rear spring hangers forward 8" and chop the rear of the frame rather than chopping a piece out of the center. Also, the Track Width is only 1.4" wider (0.7" on each side), so there will not be any width problems. After removing the shock/spring towers from the XJ unibody there is more than enough room in that engine compartment for a 360 or 401 too. It looks like I will save about 1500 pounds in the body so the HP of a 360 or 401 should be very noticeable with the XJ body. *============================================* * JC Jones * * 76 Wagoneer (Road Warrior) - Retired * * 84 Grand Wagoneer (Eeyore) * * 79 J10 (Max) - In Development * * 86 Cherokee Laredo (Junior) * * 79 NT Cherokee (parts) * * http://www.wagoneer.net * *============================================* ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1309 **************************