From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Thu May 24 11:25:22 2001 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Wednesday, May 23 2001 Volume 01 : Number 1326 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: Re: 4.0 swap RE: fsj: Dash Parts fsj: What is his horrible screech coming from the passenger side valve cover area? Sounds like a belt squeel fsj: gone... fsj: Leaking Washer Fluid Re: fsj: re: poor man's lift Re: fsj: transfer case questions Re: fsj: Re: shot engine in FL fsj: Fwd: Does any one have an Intake manifold update fsj: Re: 4.0 swap fsj: '01 JEEP CALENDAR REPRINTS AND WAGONEER 1/25th SCALE MODEL (2nd NOTICE) fsj: Re: Safety Switch problem?? fsj: clean yard??? fsj: RE: clean yard??? and engine longevity FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 09:34:07 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: fsj: Re: 4.0 swap On Tue, 22 May 2001, Mikel Ezcurra wrote: >--> Hi, >--> I read about your 4.0 swap at the 1FSJ forum. How are >-->you going to deal with all the electronics? Will the >-->4.0 mate with any manual FSJ trannies? using the XJ Aisin Warner 4 speed overdrive tranny, using the wiring harness from the '96 xj... Bought an entire wrecked Cherokee... john >--> Thanks. >--> Mikel >--> >-->1978 Jeep Cherokee Chief >-->360/T-18A/Dana20 >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux **** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://junkscience.com ** http://snopes.com ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA ...don't leave life without Jesus, please... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 10:09:11 -0700 From: Clark Novak Subject: RE: fsj: Dash Parts Hey Tony, Try Donavee Jeep in Los Angeles. I know it's a long way away, but these guys have been Jeep dealers under one owner for about 15 years. They know their stuff and have gotten me some things I never thought I'd find. I believe they can source new headliners (they could last time I checked), and the dash part shouldn't be a problem. (800) 366-JEEP or browse www.donavee.com . Clark Novak 87 GW San Diego > Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 14:28:53 EDT > From: DoctorNor-at-aol.com > Subject: fsj: Dash Parts > > Hi everyone, > > Okay, I have no reputable, OR un-reputable FSJ parts dealers in my areas > near Boston. I need to get the part of the dash that holds in the > headlight > switch on my 88 Grand Wagonner. Anyone have this part, or know > where I could > get on via email or phone call? I can still turn the headlights > on and off, > just gettin tired of fishin my finger through the hole to flip > the switch. > Also, anyone know of a company that sells headliner kits for > this beast? I > put in a sunroof, which looks great on the outside, but I butchered the > headliner some, and wan it to look a might bit better than it does. > > > Tony > 88 Grand Wagonner > > "As all the others slip and slide, and end up stuck, the beast > drives right > on through" ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 14:39:15 -0500 From: bobandkara-at-juno.com Subject: fsj: What is his horrible screech coming from the passenger side valve cover area? Sounds like a belt squeel I have a horrible screeching noise coming from the left valve cover area. It sounds like a belt slipping, but isn't coming fom the belts. It varies with acceleration, and goes away once it's warmed up or at a higher rpm. Thanks ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 13:37:59 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: gone... the little wag went away this morning... a moment of silence please... ;) it will be stock #01012738 at http://www.iaai.com http://www.iaai-bid.com/branch_info.asp?branch=325 the driver said in about a month or so... we talked about the way the auction works, you can bid on your own rig for free, otherwise you pay $150 to "join". He said that the little wag would probably go for a couple hundred or so! He said that state farm brings in about 40 vehicles a day and wouldn't miss anything if I had removed a few parts... saying that he let me take the console out... (mainly because it had really been damaged in the accident when the seat hit it... it's the perfect color for my J10. :) john - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 20:31:45 -0400 From: mpolkkidodge-at-netscape.net Subject: fsj: Leaking Washer Fluid fluid is leaking from the pump on the bottom of the bottle (Bottle is fine) should i just coat the pump with silicone to prevent the leak or is there anything i could do Thanks for the help Mike ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 18:46:39 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: re: poor man's lift A: It may be just the heat (it hit 78ºF today!) but the thought just occurred to me that if some one cut the eyes off the original main leaf (if it's not broken) just where it starts to curve, then use several C clamps (I suggest using 4-6 huge ones for strength and safety) about 1 foot either side of the centering bolt, and up the length. Then snap off the center bolt (note which side the nut is on for reassembly) and bolt your new (used) main leaf crossways to the pack (not too tight) and spin the spring inline and loosen the clamps one at a time and move it slowly. Then put the pack in place, and tighten the U bolts before removing the pack clamps and putting in new ones. I haven't tried this yet, and as I said, it may be the heat, but it seems to me it should work okay! From: john On Mon, 21 May 2001, Roy Kesmodel wrote: Thanks for the advice. How do I tell if the spring has arch? What should be the height from curve to tip (just before eye)? Also, how long will work without doing more than cutting off the eyes? I've cc'd this to the list, so if you don't know right off I'm sure someone else will. Thanks. did you see the pictures of my "spring farm"? set the spring on the ground and look for it to arch. Then step on it and see if it's springy... I recommend NOT removing the shackles or eyebolts, grab the 2nd spring in the pack from the rear and put it under the front, it'll sit under the shackle. this will save you a lot of effort and get the desired lift... see the pix on the poor man's lift on my server... john Roy '82 FSJ Cherokee Laredo 'Tank' ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 18:59:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: transfer case questions A: The NVG249 HD I had was broken (due to a rollover and back flip in a '93 GC) I didn't do total measurements, but a SYE adapter for the back end would be nice, but not important if you're not lifted. It appeared (from the measuring I could do) that it would even hook up to the NP229 linkage and front shaft (new rear shaft with slip yoke would be needed) Ask Zack Heisey what they are worth new, because Oly sells them for $1500 with 100,000 miles on them! The Hummers run a NVG242 HD with the same chain as the NVG249. (from what I compared when one was in for a new chain at my local trans shop) I think the upgrade on them was done in '96ish. From: Dan Black Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) said: {- A: I would have the later chain and gear set put in the NP231, or get a {- NP242 if you aren't going to run the NP208 (which is the strongest of {- them all). A Grand Cherokee or Dodge late model NP249 would give you {- what you really want. Full time 4x4 with 4 hi, 4 hi lock, 4 low, 4 low {- lock. Will the NP249 go in the GWags (with the 727) fairly easily? How many modifications are required? How much would a brand new 249 (and any adapters, etc.) cost? Just wondering if that's what I should do if my current transfer case ever goes out. Wouldn't my transfer case be the 229? It's an '88, has 2wd mode, vacuum switch, can of course shift at any speed (I think all post-'85s are that way), and can run on dry pavement even at highway speeds in 4wd. ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 19:03:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: Re: shot engine in FL A: Before you give up on the old motor, check the pushrods and rockers for extensive wear. My friend's '76 was condemned by 6 shops as a basketcase (they bought it anyway for $1000) As soon as I heard the rocker rattle, we pulled the valve covers, and replaced all the rockers and 6 bent pushrods. It now runs like a scalded cat (and the trans has started acting up) From: john I'm doing a 4.0L conversion on my '83 J10 Stepside. :) Getting a new engine in your GW would be ok, but if you can find someone to do a decent conversion to a more modern driveline you'd be happier... fuel injection and an automatic with overdrive would be the ticket. :) look forward to meeting you when you come up to Whidbey. I'm about 45 minutes away... snohomish. ttyl, john On Tue, 22 May 2001, steve mitchell wrote: Dear John; I just saw your website the day before I learned that we have zero compression on a couple of cylinders on my '90 GW and the shop is recommending a new engine, they can't do overhauls so it does not suprise me that they recommend a new engine.. I am going to look around for an honest rebuild shop to see if maybe it just needs a ring job but thought maybe you could give me some advice or point me in the right direction to find some advice. Is rebuilding a good idea? Should I get the same engine as it had before, the one that blew after 70k. I like your sight a lot and am very happy to see that you are spreading the good news of Jesus Christ on your sight. Eternity with the father makes these engine problems seem insignificant. I am in the Navy here in Jacksonville, FL but am from Seattle and will be moving back to Naval Air Station Whidbey Island in September. Thank you for your time and I look forward to hearing from you. In Christ, Steve Mitchell (904) 298-2722 gundog87-at-hotmail.com ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 19:27:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: fsj: Fwd: Does any one have an Intake manifold update From: "Greg Taylor" To: replyto: kevinm-at-stellarmfg.com From: "McHugh, Kevin" Late last year it was mentioned on the list that Edelbrock would develop a new intake, RPM JR I believe, for AMC V-8's. Possibly adding dogs to the casting for fuel injectors. Has anyone on the Jeep list or the AMC list heard any more? Greg wrote: Jim, They are currently developing the intake manifold at Edelbrock. It should be available in late Summer or early Fall (my guess from chats with Edelbrock). ===== GregTaylor :) in Rochester Hills, MI <>< Editor Guy - Great Lakes Classic AMC Club http://www.turboboost.com http://www.turboforce.com ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 19:47:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: fsj: Re: 4.0 swap A: You can mate the 4.0L to any FSJ 6 cyl standard trans with a 258 flywheel (or rebalanced 360 to zero weight), but then you will need the harmonic balancer crank position sensor kit from Chrysler/Jeep (about $200) Aside from that and the wiring up of the EFI, it's a piece of cake (like swapping a 258 in)    From: john On Tue, 22 May 2001, Mikel Ezcurra wrote:     Hi,   I read about your 4.0 swap at the 1FSJ forum. How are you going to deal with all the electronics? Will the 4.0 mate with any manual FSJ trannies? using the XJ Aisin Warner 4 speed overdrive tranny, using the wiring harness from the '96 xj... Bought an entire wrecked Cherokee... john   Thanks. Mikel 1978 Jeep Cherokee Chief 360/T-18A/Dana20 ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 01:33:09 EDT From: RMSquaredJeeps-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: '01 JEEP CALENDAR REPRINTS AND WAGONEER 1/25th SCALE MODEL (2nd NOTICE) I'm not sure if this message reached all the lists on Sunday, since I only received two responses, so I hope that nobody will be offended if I post it again. It concerns a second printing of the 2001 FSJ calendar and the possibility of a 1/25 scale FSJ model. Here's the post reprinted for those of you that might have missed it. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ - ---- Quick update. Two weeks ago I attended the press launch for the new Jeep Liberty. If you'd like to view my impressions, they are currently posted on a UK Jeep club site at: http://www.jeepclub.co.uk/articles/liberty.html While I was there I gave the KJ's project manager my last two calendars to give to my PR contacts at Jeep. As I've mentioned earlier, his Dad held basically the same position at Kaiser in the late '50's and early '60's when the Wagoneer and Gladiator were developed and the calendar was dedicated to his Dad's memory. He showed the calendar to some of his peers in the engineering group and several expressed interest in getting a few calendars for themselves. Since several people on the various FSJ mailing lists expressed interest in buying calendars after the production run was completed, I have decided to produce a second print run. The calendars will be $26 each including shipping with additional calendars available for $24 each. Payment will be via PayPal only. I will not be accepting any checks this time around. If you're interested in purchasing a calendar, please let me know and process your payment NO LATER THAN JUNE 15. I anticipate doing the print run in the days following the cut off date with delivery via USPS Priority Mail by July 3. Now for the 1/25th scale Wagoneer project. As many of you know Revell-Monogram is releasing or has released a reissue of the Twister J-10 Honcho pickup truck in 1/25 scale. Information can be found at: http://www.revell-monogram.com/store/ModelDetail.cfm?Id=93&SubjectId=18&SkillI Several months ago, when this kit was announced, I put up some posts on some modeling boards and today, a model maker from Montana wrote me and we talked about the possibility of doing a resin body of a Wagoneer body. Resin bodies are a sort of cottage industry for hard-core modelers and it is a process where a limited run of bodies can be produced for vehicles for where there is not sufficient demand to tool up a full injection mold. We spoke at length over the phone and I'm going to send him one of the reissue models or my still-sealed Twister model and together we are going to talk about having him do up a mold for a resin body. Typically resin bodies sell for between $40 and $70 each in serious hobby stores. To complete one you'll need a donor vehicle for the chassis. Having a mold done is not cheap but it is not outlandishly expensive, it all depends how complex the final product will be. In essence two molds will be needed, one for the body and a second for the interior tub. My thought is that the body would have no grille but would have provisions for one of the five main grilles from the first Rhino to the last Grand Wagoneer. The five grilles would be part of the mold for the interior tub. This way you would be able to build up a completed model from any era and duplicate your own vehicle. At this time, we're thinking that if there was a production run of 100 bodies to amortize the cost of the mold, the cost per unit would be around $50 each. The question is figuring $50 for the resin kit, $12 for the Revell-Monogram donor kit, typical paint and the builder's time, just how big is the market for such a project among the members of the various Jeep mailing lists. Based on the success of the calendar at 150 units plus the second printing to come, is a production run of 100 units realistic? Actually it is 97 since I already know that I will be in for three units myself. I'd like to see this go forward but under one condition, it will not move forward unless there is a subscription of a minimum number of units at a specified price before I commission the mold. Every subscriber would have to put up a deposit of at least 50% of the final cost before work is started on the mold. I realize that this might be considered a leap of faith by some but I think I have a pretty good track record based on the calendar project and I'm willing to get the ball rolling. Look at it this way, for around $70 plus the time you invest to build up the model, you'll be able to build a faithful scale model of your own truck, less than the cost of a Franklin Mint model. I think that you could even commission a local modeler to build it up for you, just visit a good local hobby shop to find such an individual. The question is how much serious interest is there here for such a project and how many of you are willing to invest approximately $25 each to get the ball rolling? If you are interested, please E-mail me your thoughts along with the number of resin kits you would be willing to buy. If the number approaches the break-even point, then I will finalize the price based on the number of units specified and start taking deposits. When the commitment level is reached, I will commission the start of the mold and will post the notification to the mailing lists as well to each individual subscriber who has placed a deposit. Does this make sense? I suspect that this will take some time but if we start now, I am confident that the kits can be delivered by Thanksgiving so that they will arrive in time for Christmas giving. I look forward to hearing back from list members on both issues. When responding, please E-mail me directly at rmsquaredjeeps-at-aol.com. If you wish to order a calendar, please write in the subject line in upper case letters "I WANT IN ON THE CALENDAR" and let me know how many you will want in the body of the E-mail. If you wish to subscribe to the resin kit project, please write in the subject line in upper case letters "I WANT IN ON THE RESIN KIT" and let me know how many you will be willing to purchase. I look forward to hearing from many of you. Please feel free to pass this information along to other FSJ enthusiasts who might not be on these mailing lists. Sincerely, Richard Truesdell ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 22:50:17 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: Re: Safety Switch problem?? At 10:02 PM 5/22/01 -0400, Rio wrote: >Hello John! > >Excellent website you've designed! >I'm hoping you can help me solve a problem with my 84 grand wagoneer. > >The other day I was driving and stopped to switch into 4wd and couldn't >get the gears engaged, so still >in gear I turned the key switch off to shut the engine. I then push the >gear lever and engage the 4wd.....But >now the key won't start the jeep?? Works normal but acts like not >completing the electrical circuit. > >What I ended up doing... I jumped the solenoid with key in on position and >it starts normal. > >I then installed a new solenoid switch and still nothing. > >I'm looking for the park/neutral switch but can't find it. It's the only >thing I can think of. Have you tried moving the gear shift to neutral and to Park? There is a rod that runs down the steering column, I think... sheesh, I'm trying to remember where it is too... I remember this rod running down the column... but I'm not sure if the switch is at the base of the column or what...look under the column... It's been a couple years since I wrestled with rebuilding the tilt... and had trouble with that rod... :) Does it only do it when you're in 4wd or all the time now? >What do you think this is? neutral safety switch sounds like the problem... >John, any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!! > >Again keep up the good work on your websites!! Evidently you learned well >at that web designing school! I taught myself with one of those Learn HTML in 28 days or something like that... Laura Lemay was the author I think. Later I became a web master instructor... ;) > Rio - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 23:46:21 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: clean yard??? after having two XJs removed and a GW full of Jeep parts I've found my yard... and it needs mowing... ;) http://www.wagoneers.com/SuperDawg/May22-byebye-XJs/ http://www.wagoneers.com/SuperDawg/May22-byebye-XJs/bye-bye-XJs.jpg I hadn't even finished making my morning latte when I spotted the tow truck loading the little wagoneer... it comes up for auction in a month... (the temptation to get the OME lift, my 4.10s and trans/xfr case persist... ;) I emissions tested the '87 cheap jeep, it passed with flying colors in spite of 267,300 miles on it's 4.0L engine. Not sure who was more impressed, me or the testers. :) Ya gotta love these 4.0L motors... Sure, that's only about half the life expectancy of a Mercedes Turbo Diesel engine, but still... to me that's simply an amazing amount of mileage on a gas engine... I still remember the days when an engine needed work at 60,000 or 70,000 miles! Cars with over 100,000 miles were considered diseased or something. :) When did all this change??? After getting home and gathering parts for the J10 engine swap and loading up Curtis's GW (see the picture of "rocky") we called in John's Econotow to haul off the remains of the '96 XJ. The idea of paying to have scrap metal hauled off is a bit foreign to me... but I did. :) Tomorrow we drop off the '01 Jeep Cherokee Classic. My wife will be sad over that one... She's mentioned several times how much she loves that little green jeep... :) The XJ Cherokee is such a wonderful compromise, it does almost everything well. It's a great size, decent economy, excellent handling, good visibility, safe, and so on and so on... so when I hear DaimlerChrysler say they're going to stop producing them I know they are out of their collective minds... :) john - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 11:28:08 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: fsj: RE: clean yard??? and engine longevity A: A lot of things have changed, including lubricants and manufacturing processes. People also take time to have their vehicles serviced properly, which greatly increases their longevity. Volvos (and other overseas vehicles) came over and were often rotting by the time they got off the boat due to saltwater damage. The motors were often left unsealed and had to be rebroken in due to rusty cylinder walls. I worked on the docks in Surrey, BC back in the '70s and saw how they were treated coming off the boats and loaded on the trains and trucks. (many had to have major bodywork due to loaders racing down the dock)    From: "Johan Forsman" This is something I began to notice after I moved to the US. That cars are considered near death once 100k is reached, that is. When I was growing up in Sweden it was commonplace to see old Volvos of all models with 200k and much more on the original engines (1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.1 liters) that had not had any engine work to speak of ever still running like tops. However, here I have seen the same Volvo models with half that ready for the scrap heap. I wonder what could account for the difference... Johan. - -----Original Message----- From: john [mailto:john-at-wagoneers.com] Subject: [FSJ-List] clean yard??? I emissions tested the '87 cheap jeep, it passed with flying colors in spite of 267,300 miles on it's 4.0L engine. Not sure who was more impressed, me or the testers.   :) Ya gotta love these 4.0L motors... Sure, that's only about half the life expectancy of a Mercedes Turbo Diesel engine, but still... to me that's simply an amazing amount of mileage on a gas engine...   I still remember the days when an engine needed work at 60,000 or 70,000 miles! Cars with over 100,000 miles were considered diseased or something. :)   When did all this change??? ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1326 **************************