From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Tue Aug 28 08:56:49 2001 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Tuesday, August 28 2001 Volume 01 : Number 1438 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: NIB tonka! fsj: Re: tranny needed for '67 J3000 327 fsj: $102.50!!!! fsj: Portland Jeep parts run - Wednesday Re: fsj: RE: Stalling some more Re: fsj: calls from the other side... Re: fsj: Re: tune-up specs for points ('74) Re: fsj: tranny needed for '67 J3000 327 Re: fsj: gladiator - for sale '67 $10,000 - 15,000 miles Re: fsj: Rear Disc Brake Conversion Re: fsj: pinion seal for J4600 Re: fsj: Re: the T-5 in Superdawg fsj: SUV parking fsj: Dead As A Door Knob fsj: Re: Dead As A Door Knob FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 21:51:16 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: NIB tonka! 25 minutes left... $78.99... nib J truck wrecker... I've got two, but they're not this nice... it's tempting, but I blew the wad on the new in box Cherokee Chief the other day... :) http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1628645704&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=998975734&indexURL=0&rd=1 - --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 00:59:34 EDT From: Brazzadog-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: Re: tranny needed for '67 J3000 327 I saw a pair of 327 equipped Wags for sale in Rimrock near Rainier a couple of weeks ago. I may still have the phone # around somewhere if there is interest. Ben Williams '71 Wagoneer '78 F-250 4x4 '88 Bronco ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 22:28:56 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: $102.50!!!! the tonka tow truck, nib went for $102.50!!! I don't feel so bad paying "only" $70.69 or whatever it was for the nib cherokee chief.... last week the fire chief went for over $127... tow truck: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1628645704&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=998975734&indexURL=0&rd=1 later, john - --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 22:39:35 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: Portland Jeep parts run - Wednesday I'll be heading down to Portland, Oregon for a mini-vacation/parts run. heading down to get the FSJ springs from Whit. Will be taking the WJ, won't be able to haul any large dirty objects, but if you need something ferried up or down btwn Seattle and Portland let me know. :) BTW, totally off topic, but I'm looking at getting a CD burner and was wondering if it's worth getting a DVD burner, will they burn CDs as well? I was thinking of getting a USB cd burner so I can move it around between systems. Any suggestions? I had bought a Sony Spressa unit off of ebay, didn't work and thankfully the guy gave me a refund... I'm thinking an HP unit, seen 'em for around $120 or so... Not worried about speed, just want it to work. Mainly to save my digital pictures. :) email me off list if you need something shuttled or if you have info on a CD/DVD burner... won't have much time to get together in Portland, will probably drive down and back the same day... saves about $75 in hotel that way. Besides when I stay down in Portland I'm usually on the phone most of the evening talking to old friends down there and the wife doesn't care for that. :) john - --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 23:06:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: RE: Stalling some more A: I read part of this before. Stalling on decel can be several things. Float level too high (or idle mix jets clogged and putting too much gas down at idle or high vacuum) blown or sticking open power valve in the carb (too much gas dumped in whenever it feels like it) The secondaries could be part open, and since they have no idle ports, lean air rushes in and shuts the motor off. Cam walk is another possibility (unfortunately common on AMC V8s. The cam slides ahead till the lifters come off the lobe, causing no fuel/air to cylinders) slack timing chain (valve events are thrown off so much that timing changes up to 40 degrees from idle on accel to idle on decel) Spark trouble (missing or broken ground wire for the points plate causes intermittent spark and can even shut it off) This is one of those "If I saw it and heard it, I could tell in about 10 minutes" things. I think the distributor is the first place to look. I have a bunch of new caps, rotors, points etc in my garage I'm going to put on Ebay soon (along with the wallmounted tune-up box and engine scope) From: john At 06:51 PM 8/26/01 -0700, allyoop wrote: Yep, adjusted float level. I think there's no fuel return line (Motorcraft 4300 4v) Walt then it's either the fuel lines or the fuel pump... john - - ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 23:15:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: calls from the other side... A: Yesterday, I spent the day flying back from Boston (step daughter's wedding in Plymouth) and I tried to send an email from a kiosk, but ran out of time. (they have pay as you go internet access in the Burger King in Middleboro!) There was a light colored '90 GW with sun roof for $950 out there too. (wife erased the pics of it. It's near the world's highest Elevated Railway Bridge at the bottom of the peninsula. Still got the bridge pics though!) Hey John! Don't forget I have an '87 Cherokee I'm parting here that has a nice grey interior! (front buckets are in my pickup temporarily. I'll sell them and the std trans console for $75) It also has a perfect rear hatch I put up for $150 with rear wiper and defog! This one only has 160,000 on it (too bad it's 2WD and the mice ate up the wiring!) From: john a sunny sunday afternoon, I'm on picket fence repair duty and the phone rings... it's the guy with the 68 Mustang... we chat, and then call waiting sounds off... pick it up and it's the Admiral calling from way on the other side of the mountains to encourage the acquistion of another XJ. :) Thanx for the jingle, sorry I didn't have more time to chat... but made good progress on the fence... 2 bags of concrete shy of getting it all done... well, the post part, next comes the rails then the pickets, then we're done. :) Sold the '87 XJ to one of my son's friends. It'll take him a few weeks to come up with the money. Didn't get as much as I wanted, but basically covered the major costs I had into it. Wife hates it because it clunks and has 269,000 miles on it... :) and the seat is worn out... :) Runs strong and gets 17mpg though.... SuperDawg won't be ready for a while, so we'll be down to one car... could be interesting... or maybe I'll have to buy something else... :) I saw a '79 Wagoneer in Everett for a grand... :)     The wife wants another XJ, but a new one... not sure if it makes sense to sell the WJ and get an XJ when the payment will be the same... the XJs are nice, but not as nice as this WJ. :) flip/flop, flip/flop. :) Will be heading down to Portland either Tuesday or Wednesday to pickup some springs from Whit.   Any one interested in any of the parts I have up here, can meet you somewhere on I-5. :) john - - ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 23:23:20 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: Re: tune-up specs for points ('74) A: If the spark is yellow, the condenser is kaput! (You'd be amazed at how many cars I bought or fixed that "mechanics" had tested and said the motor was shot!) I agree with throwing in Pertronix! It makes all the difference with these things! From: "Vince Orr" Dan: I used to play a lot with old points and condenser ignition systems. One quick way to tell if the points are burnt is to pop the cap and if they aren't already open, gently hold them open with a screwdriver (don't pry on the contacts). You should be able to see if the contacts are flat or if they have pitted or burned. I've even been so cheap as to file and dress a set of points rather than buy new ones........... Condensors rarely fail as fast as points or plugs but most folks replace them for good measure. If your condensor hasn't been replaced in quite a while, it should be. And of course the cap and rotor should be in good shape. Make sure the surface of the distributor shaft where the rotor makes contact is not rusty, etc.. so that good contact is made with the rotor. If all else fails, check for a ground strap between the contact plate and the inside wall of the distributor. I'm not sure if that is what your motor uses but there should be some kind of ground strap or wire. It may look fine but be old and bad. And always check the wiring to the distributor. If someone finds a '74 manual, there are probably tests you can run with the ignition on to check circuits. Continuity checks could be done on the wiring as well. Otherwise, you could try to convert to electronic. Waa Hoo!   :) - - --Vince - - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Black" To: "Full Size Jeeps" Sent: Monday, August 27, 2001 10:25 AM Subject: fsj: tune-up specs for points ('74) Anybody have a '74 manual handy who could tell me any tune-up specs for a '74 points system? Like dwell and gap, and anything else that would be useful (including hints from experience). I've never messed with them before, but the friend who's helping me with them says he has the right tools and is familiar with them (he has them on his pickup). Also if anybody has any other ideas, I'd be happy to listen: the '74 started bogging down last Friday and then wouldn't start in the evening. Turns, sounds like it _wants_ to fire, but doesn't. A couple times it would even _almost_ start, but die after a few chugs. We tried spraying WD-40 inside the distributor cap and even pouring gas straight into the carb. No difference. (That probably rules out a plugged fuel filter (about three weeks old) and water in the tank (got gas the day before, on Thursday).) Anyway, it did act similar to an ignition module going out, but as I said, it's points. Once we get it running, we're probably going to switch it -- supposedly not that expensive or hard to do. The friend says we'll replace the cap, rotor, condensor, and points. But still looking for the specs. :) Thanks! ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 23:26:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: tranny needed for '67 J3000 327 A: Probably wouldn't do him much good, but I have a Chev SM420 (or whichever the early one is with granny low) for $50 and a 3 speed with Ebrake on it from the '65 GMC bus I parted for another $50 (comes with early Chev bellhousing that has 2 mounts built it) From: john the guy that acquired my son's '67 J3000, Jay, needs a transmission for it. I believe it's a T-85, it might also be a T-15. Not 100% certain, but either way, it sounds like 1st gear is gone and it's leaking oil.... not a good situation. If you have a trans of any type that will bolt up to the 327 and the Dana 20 xfr case and you're in the Seattle area or can get it shipped to him for, oh, less than $200, he'd like to talk to you. :) Actually the TH400 will work, and might be preferred if you have the flex plate and torque converter as well for the 327... You can email me and I'll forward it to him. I think his email address is changing or has changed. He'll email me tomorrow. Things were going pretty well... he's gotten the bed rust fixed and was doing great... then his job went away and then his tranny... :( Mark may get his wish to get it back... :( He was kicking himself for letting it go... Anyway, if we can help Jay get this thing back on the road cheap it'll be great. Jay could use some good news right about now. later, john ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 23:34:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: gladiator - for sale '67 $10,000 - 15,000 miles A: It depends on how the plow was mounted. I had one with hydraulic rams that was used for 20 years no probs. From: Brazzadog-at-aol.com From: David Charles Gedraitis Also, I don't know if anyone shares this belief, but what my father told me once about plow trucks is they tend to suffer considerable abuse as they have to push a heavy load and hit every bump in the road etc, it seems reasonable to me. Just out of curiosity-what does everyone else think? Can trucks that were plowed be considered a little more beat? I suppose one would have to make exceptions based on if the truck was set up for it or not, or if the truck was overly larger, but I suppose thats different too... I bought my '78 F-250 w/plow in 1990. It had 70K miles on it. The front end was nearly shot. That could be blamed on the extremely corrosive environment (salt), extremely bad roads, lack of maintenance (PO was a little old lady), or the plow. Seems to me a that the truck in question is going to have fairly little damage to the front end. The miles are very low and it hasn't moved since '71. I'd be inclined to worry about everything else. Ben Williams '71 Wagoneer '78 F-250 4x4 '88 Bronco ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 23:49:19 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: Rear Disc Brake Conversion A: I checked into that, but since I cross water and drive through wet snow, I decided to keep rear drums and just add the hydroboost set up on mine to make it stop better. I wonder if the '76 Blazer calipers are bigger than the FSJs are? This setup should work for M20 or D44. From: Landon Tesar http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=594389001&r=0&t=0 Well, I assumed they are for the rear, maybe it's for the front ? Maybe it doesn't matter ? Anyone have any comment on this for D44, AMC20 ? - - - Landon '89 GW (running good after I got the fish out of the carburetor) Austin ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 23:54:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: pinion seal for J4600 A: Is the suffix in front, ie: CBR vs BR or at the back? ie: RP vs no suffix? The first one designates 2 styles of seal that both work, but from different plants (sometimes from a buy out when the manufacturer uses up the bought company's old stock) and the other is for a repair package (RP) which usually includes a speedi sleeve as well as the seal. From: "allyoop" My local parts store lists two different seals (different numbers) for the Dana 60 semi-floater in my '73 J4600. Can anyone on the list provide guidance as to which is right, or how to decide? (Sorry I don't have the numbers to quote -- as I recall the difference was a suffix designation. Walt Greenwood ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 23:58:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: fsj: Re: the T-5 in Superdawg A: Oh, well! I still have a 2WD AX-15 (5 speed from a '92 XJ) for sale then! First $250 takes it! From: JeepNut Hi Jim,                 I asked what the distance was from the front face of the t5 back to the centerline of the shifter....for a smouldering MJ project I have in mind. Grumble, grumble...stupid Peugot's...                 JeepNut James Blair wrote: A: What was measured? I measured the T5 John has compared to a 727 and it was within an inch. From: JeepNut Thanks Curtis, I browsed all the pics on John's website and from what I could see it looked like it was about 19". Appreciate the measurement. 13" vs. 19" is a big difference.                                   Steve (JeepNut) ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 02:31:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: fsj: SUV parking http://www.collegehumor.com/temp/baddriver.jpg http://www.collegehumor.com/temp/baddriver2.jpg ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 05:47:31 -0400 From: "B. C." Subject: fsj: Dead As A Door Knob Greetings To The FSJ World! Lady Susan went out to go to work yesterday morning and found that the di-lithium crystals, (battery) were totally depleted of energy. Now this has been going on for some time. I just have not seen it happen so quickly. Usually if the 89 USS GW has sat for a week, before those darned di-lithium crystals have lost all energy. This time it happened just by the USS GW sitting for the week-end. I thought originally that it might be related to the fact that the rear key switch for the tailgate window had been shorting, since the dash switch will only work if the key switch is jiggled into the correct position. So I concluded that this short in the key switch could be draining the battery. So I pulled the circuit breaker under the dash that controls the electric rear window. I found a bonus that this switch also controls the power door locks, rear window defogger, and power seats. Well after the USS GW had sat for a week with this fuse disconnected I went to start it. Those di-lithium crystals were dead again. So my quest took me to check for reading lamps that might have been left on, or a glove box, or under hood light that stayed on constantly. All of these things checked OK, and functioning within established parameters. Granted there are a lot of power accessories on this vessel. A hardwired cell phone, Jacobs ignition, electric fuel pump, IPF lights, and IPF Lighting relay; but I compensated for all of them with the custom build 145 amp alternator with small flywheel, and low speed cut in regulator. Heck I even have completely replaced the entire under hood wire harness. Yet that power drain is still there. So how would somebody go about connecting their shop meter to determine where a drain would be present with the truck turned off? What procedure would best identify the source of the drain? Until The Next Dimension, Admiral "Coluch." Starfleet Headquarters Ohio Post END TRANSMISSION.................................... ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 06:20:12 -0500 From: "Vince Orr" Subject: fsj: Re: Dead As A Door Knob What is the battery status in Admiral? Do the di-lithium crystals need re-crystalization? (I think Spock and Scotty did this once or twice but in our case, it means purchasing a new battery!) The fact that you have so many accessories could be putting a strain on any "normal" battery. If you haven't done a check on that yet, it would be a good starting point. Alternator still working OK? I ran the Rez for two weeks before my big battery ran out of juice when the alternator went out. I was pretty impressed that a battery would keep the engine running that long. Since then, I've taught myself how to read my amp gauge! (look at gauge, notice where little needle is, "freak out" if not charging properly) I'm fairly certain that when my starship needs a new crystal or two, I'm going to pick up something in the Optima battery line or something similar. This is beyond di-lithium technology, more like a three story tall matter-antimatter energizer if you know what I mean. ;) - --Vince '81 Wagoneer (The Rez Runner) - ----- Original Message ----- From: "B. C." To: "PHOENIX FSJ LIST" ; "JOHN MEISTER" Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 4:47 AM Subject: fsj: Dead As A Door Knob > Greetings To The FSJ World! > > Lady Susan went out to go to work yesterday morning and found that the > di-lithium crystals, (battery) were totally depleted of energy. Now > this has been going on for some time. I just have not seen it happen so > quickly. Usually if the 89 USS GW has sat for a week, before those > darned di-lithium crystals have lost all energy. This time it happened > just by the USS GW sitting for the week-end. > > I thought originally that it might be related to the fact that the rear > key switch for the tailgate window had been shorting, since the dash > switch will only work if the key switch is jiggled into the correct > position. So I concluded that this short in the key switch could be > draining the battery. So I pulled the circuit breaker under the dash > that controls the electric rear window. I found a bonus that this > switch also controls the power door locks, rear window defogger, and > power seats. Well after the USS GW had sat for a week with this fuse > disconnected I went to start it. Those di-lithium crystals were dead > again. > > So my quest took me to check for reading lamps that might have been left > on, or a glove box, or under hood light that stayed on constantly. All > of these things checked OK, and functioning within established > parameters. > > Granted there are a lot of power accessories on this vessel. A > hardwired cell phone, Jacobs ignition, electric fuel pump, IPF lights, > and IPF Lighting relay; but I compensated for all of them with the > custom build 145 amp alternator with small flywheel, and low speed cut > in regulator. Heck I even have completely replaced the entire under > hood wire harness. Yet that power drain is still there. > > So how would somebody go about connecting their shop meter to determine > where a drain would be present with the truck turned off? What > procedure would best identify the source of the drain? > > > > Until The Next Dimension, > Admiral "Coluch." > Starfleet Headquarters > Ohio Post > END TRANSMISSION.................................... ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1438 **************************