From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Sat Sep 29 11:55:08 2001 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Saturday, September 29 2001 Volume 01 : Number 1467 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: fsj: Re: Carb Repair or Replacement Re: fsj: tonkas from ebay fsj: Re: fsj-digest V1 #1466 fsj: Hood Release cable snapped-SON OF A -at-#!%* Re: [fsj: tonkas from ebay] Re: [fsj: Hood Release cable snapped-SON OF A -at-#!%*] fsj: additives... RE: fsj: additives... FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 01:15:08 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: fsj: Re: Carb Repair or Replacement A: If there isn't a misconnected hose or vacuum leak, I'd say blown powervalve. These are not hard to rebuild. I have several Ford 2100s (and Carter AFBs pre-Edelbrock) that I am going to rebuild (and take pics to post) before I sell them. A 2100 takes me about 2 hours to clean and build. The later model ones take maybe an hour extra. From: john On Thu, 27 Sep 2001, Paul Borowski wrote: Just got through talking to my mechanic, trying to get my 1988 Grand Wagoneer past the Georgia Emissions test. It has an unacceptably high co level. He says the carb cannot be adjusted and must get a rebuilt one. I have a choice of a napa or autoZone parts. If I replace the Carb, what additional equipment would I need to adjust it to pass the emissions test? What is your opinion and or suggestions. Paul I'm not 100% sure on this, but wouldn't the hydrocarbons being high indicate a rich condition? If it was too lean, NOx would be too high. Carbon Monoxide is in the balance, not quite sure how, but seems to me that replacing the carb may not be the correct answer... JC, what do you think? Could this be a problem with the cat, vacuum or timing even? Something doesn't make sense to me... but that's alright... I have doubts about this, but JC will probably have an idea... john ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 01:23:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: fsj: tonkas from ebay From: john posting this to share what I've learned. 4 years ago visiting Jim Sterling down in California he showed me some of his FSJ tonkas... I had never seen any before. Then I started looking for them and kept finding more and more and more... :) Now I see them everywhere... at home, at work... ;) (snip) anyone need a Star Trek Encyclopedia, A: Nope! I have the original edition USS Enterprise technical and service repair manual (I wish I hadn't been sick last convention. I always wanted James Doohan to sign it. At least I got to meet Persis Khambatta and the lady that played Uhura about 5 years ago, and 15 years ago met Mr Nimoy and listened to Wm Shatner give a speech. (It was just a stupid TV show! Get a life!) >my "bid real low on a number of auctions" and hope to win at least one worked rather well, I won all three... A: I got a nice fixer upper Jtruck for $12 delivered! ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 10:20:33 -0500 From: Brian Wall Subject: fsj: Re: fsj-digest V1 #1466 JC- On your advice I called my ins co to check out my coverage and my agent says that since I have collision coverage, it takes care of damage incurred from an uninsured motorist. I would just have to pay the deductible. If you've got collision on Eeyore, you might want to check this out to see if it applies to you as well. B Wall OKC on 9/28/01 2:29 AM, fsj-digest at owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net wrote: > Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 14:18:09 -0600 > From: "JC Jones" > Subject: fsj: Eeyore and Insurance > > New developments on the insurance aspects. Those of you who think you > are covered with your uninsured motorist insurance take heed! > > It appears that the driver who caused the accident does not have > insurance. I have carried uninsured motorist insurance for over 15 > years now for just this type of problem. After contacting my insurance > company I have discovered that uninsured motorist insurance ONLY pays > for medical costs and does NOT in any way cover property damage. There > is an additional rider that you have to get to cover property damage in > an uninsured motorist case. So, basically the only way we have to > recover anything for damages to Eeyore is to sue the uninsured driver. > The total cost of the property damage for the accident is over $85,000, > and it looks like the medical will be in excess of $50,000 so it is very > unlikely that we will ever be able to see anything from this since the > 22 year old that caused the accident not only has no insurance, but is > also reportedly unemployed. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 11:33:58 -0400 From: George Milam Subject: fsj: Hood Release cable snapped-SON OF A -at-#!%* Well, here's my recent dilema. I left my lights on last night and when I went to start the "Moose" ('89 GW) this morning the battery was dead. Not a problem I have a starting kit...it gets better... So when I go to pull the hood release, the cable has no tension and I can't pop the hood. I get under the "Moose' and start the car by "jumping" the starter instead of the battery. Now what the heck can I do to get the hood open to replace the cable without the hood release to open the hood? I checked and it didn't come loose from the handle (if so I'd pull it with a vise-grip). I think it came loose at the other end under the hood. Has anybody had this problem, or know how to jimmy the latch open some how? I'd like to replace the cable myself rather than pay the dealer their quoted price of $90.00 ($65 of that labor). Thanks all. George Milam '89 Grand Wagoneer "Moose" Vermont ------------------------------ Date: 28 Sep 2001 15:54:57 MDT From: Michael Shimniok Subject: Re: [fsj: tonkas from ebay] john wrote: > AFAIK, my collection is now complete. :) If not, let me know what > I'm missing so I can search far and wide for it. :) I can't tell from your list if you have a Tonka "Cherokee Chief", red with the black Chief graphics on the rocker panels, has opening tailgate, looks like a four door. I picked mine up for $6 at an antique store on the way to our CFSJA Medano Pass camping/wheeling trip last year. Tho it needs a bath, it is in pretty darn good shape. Truly a steal. No, it isn't for sale. :D Michael - --- Michael E. Shimniok - KC0EKI - michael.shimniok-at-usa.net Donate or give blood: http://www.redcross.org 1-800-HELPNOW ------------------------------ Date: 28 Sep 2001 16:02:24 MDT From: Michael Shimniok Subject: Re: [fsj: Hood Release cable snapped-SON OF A -at-#!%*] George Milam wrote: > Now what the heck can I do to get the hood open to replace the cable > without the hood release to open the hood? I checked and it didn't > come loose from the handle (if so I'd pull it with a vise-grip). I > think it came loose at the other end under the hood. Depending on your grille, you may have to remove it. At which point there is a slot on the driver side that gives you access to a plate of metal attached to the latch mechanism. If you have a long, large screwdriver you can insert it into the slot and force the latch open. Michael - --- Michael E. Shimniok - KC0EKI - michael.shimniok-at-usa.net Donate or give blood: http://www.redcross.org 1-800-HELPNOW ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 21:07:07 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: additives... >etc.) should be in excellent condition. I guess the guy took somebody's >advice and put some strange type of additive in the engine oil to >increase HP and the engine only lasted about 1000 miles after that. >JC Jones http://www.wagoneer.net Additives are bad news for most folks, but it worked out for you... spare parts... Actually that motor probably could be rebuilt pretty easy, it's probably the top end/camshaft that failed, that's what happened to the engine I used an additive in. :) The chemistry involved with motor oil is pretty tricky. Lots of snake oil products out there... good quality oil whether synthetic or petroluem is always the way to go. you're every where aren't you JC... ;) BTW, my WJ didn't sell... got a few people making ridiculous offers on it... no biggie... it's a nice rig. later, john - --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 08:47:41 -0400 From: mpolkkidodge-at-netscape.net Subject: RE: fsj: additives... Sorry To hear your WJ didn't sell, I guess you will have to keen it. Darn ! ;) mike john wrote: >>etc.) should be in excellent condition. I guess the guy took somebody's >>advice and put some strange type of additive in the engine oil to >>increase HP and the engine only lasted about 1000 miles after that. >>JC Jones http://www.wagoneer.net > >Additives are bad news for most folks, but it worked out for you... spare >parts... Actually that motor probably could be rebuilt pretty easy, it's >probably the top end/camshaft that failed, that's what happened to the >engine I used an additive in. :) > >The chemistry involved with motor oil is pretty tricky. Lots of snake oil >products out there... good quality oil whether synthetic or petroluem >is always the way to go. > >you're every where aren't you JC... ;) > >BTW, my WJ didn't sell... got a few people making ridiculous offers >on it... no biggie... it's a nice rig. > >later, >john >--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ > Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... > jesus, don't leave life without him, please! >-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. 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