From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Fri Oct 26 08:56:25 2001 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Friday, October 26 2001 Volume 01 : Number 1486 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: re: Fluids fsj: Fluids fsj: Interesting... Re: [fsj: Suspension lift] FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 14:50:46 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: fsj: re: Fluids >--> fsj: Fluids >-->Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 16:53:47 -0700 (PDT) >-->From: Alexander Wall >-->Subject: fsj: Fluids >--> >-->Hi folks, >--> >--> Is there any risk to replacing petroleum-based fluids with synthetic fluids, without flushing >-->the system in between? I want to change my oil, tranny fluid, gear oil, and t-case fluid with >-->synthetics, but don't have the facilities to completely clean everything. I'm planning on simply >-->replacing anything that's low, with synthetic equivalent - IF it won't hurt my rig. >-->Thanks! Most modern synthethics are fully compatible with petroleum based products. NO need to clean. The only products I'm aware of that are incompatible were the early versions of redline that had a pure polyol esther base, I doubt that even their full race blends are only that now. Amsoil is and has been fully compatible since 1973, they've used a Dibasic Acid Esther compound, and more recently a blend that incorporates other types... A true synthetic will clean things out, no need for engine cleaning. john ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux ** (plain text please!) ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. ...and remember, leaving life without Jesus just isn't recommended... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 04:37:57 -0600 From: "Berry, Bradley A" Subject: fsj: Fluids Mike, Just out of curiosity, did you put the oil in the brake system, or the brake fluid in the crankcase? :-) Sorry, I knew what you meant, I just couldn't resist. Brad Berry 88GW Date: 24 Oct 2001 15:20:51 MDT From: Michael Shimniok Subject: Re: [fsj: Fluids] Generally it'll indicate on the bottle if it is compatible with standard fluids... all the valvoline synthetic stuff, to the best of my knowledge, is compatible. I have mixed brake fluid & oil with no problems. Michael Alexander Wall wrote: > Hi folks, > > Is there any risk to replacing petroleum-based fluids with synthetic fluids, without flushing > the system in between? I want to change my oil, tranny fluid, gear oil, and t-case fluid with > synthetics, but don't have the facilities to completely clean everything. I'm planning on simply > replacing anything that's low, with synthetic equivalent - IF it won't hurt my rig. > > Thanks! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 11:22:21 -0400 (EDT) From: David Charles Gedraitis Subject: fsj: Interesting... There was some talk a while back about the claims made by such additives as slick 50, check this out http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/1995/November/03.html and I'm now going to attempt to find the article that was published by the SAE. If anyone else comes across it, it would be welcome. ~dave ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 22:55:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) Subject: Re: [fsj: Suspension lift] A: You forgot the cheapest (and often the best I've found) way to do it. Get someone's not too dead old main leaf (or buy just 4 new main leaves) and cut the eyes off your old main leaf (as close to the curl as possible), and clamp the springs before snapping the centering bolt. Then you get a new (longer) centering bolt, pass it through all the springs and the new one on top (which will be on an angle because of the clamps) put the nut on, and loosen the clamps and spin the springs so they are all aligned again (facing the right way too! It's best to mark the front of the springs so you know which way they go!) Reclamp the springs and tighten the center bolt down (I forget what the torque is, but it's fairly low) then rewrap them with the straps (I forgot to mention removing them) and reinstall. Voile! Instant lift for the cost of old/new springs, centering bolts and possibly axle Ubolts (I prefer new ones myself. Last lift like this cost me under $100 and handled like a new rig!). Has anyone else besides me had/seen bad luck with Rough Country springs? A guy today told me he had a set installed by Olympic 4x4 and the main leaf snapped because it had a huge gob of rust inside! The XJ list guys are snapping front coils with mild offroading too! From: Michael Shimniok I have an extensive write-up on what is currently available for suspension lifts for FSJ's -- all options included. Maybe John will want to put this on his website, I don't know. Long and short of it for a 2-2.5" lift kit, from cheapest to most expensive: 1. Get a set of 2" add-a-leafs, either 4 or 2 and a pair of blocks. Disadvantages are that it doesn't last all that long and the ride is generally terrible and articulation suffers at least on any corner that has the a-a-l. 2. Re-arch your springs at a reputable local spring shop. It's cheaper than a kit, but may not last and probably will stiffen up the ride and won't improve articulation but may degrade it. 3. Rancho 2.5" spring/block kit is cheaper than their all spring and probably rides ok but I don't know for sure. Will last longer and articulate better than the solutions above. The all-spring would be the wise way to go as the rear springs, if sagging, are just going to sag too much for blocks to correct, eventually. Figure bout $550 for the all spring kit. 4. Custom springs at National Spring or maybe ESPO or maybe a local shop. You weigh the truck and they design a spring to your ride quality, articulation, and lift specs. Pricey. There is a 3" lift that is very cheap available from Rough Country, too, either all-spring or spring/block. What you need for a 2" lift is just the suspension components to make it happen. No need for a dropped pitman arm or extended brake lines. You do need longer shocks, typically. Rancho makes shocks that are the right size for a 2-3" lift in either RS5000 or RS9000 flavors and you can surely find several other shock manufacturers that have similarly sized offerings if you match up the extension/compression measurements. Hope this helps, Michael ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1486 **************************