From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Mon Mar 25 10:04:38 2002 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Monday, March 25 2002 Volume 01 : Number 1600 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: Re: [FSJparts] ebay fsj: charging problems fsj: RE: TH400 Info fsj: RE: TH400 Info fsj: RE: TH400 Info fsj: Re: [az_vjc] News Flash! found a new source for parts for FSJ..and CJ's fsj: Re: RE: TH400 Info fsj: Re: RE: TH400 Info fsj: RE: RE: TH400 Info fsj: Re: carb happiness... fsj: Re: RE: TH400 Info fsj: RE: RE: RE: TH400 Info fsj: floors for Jeeps..? fsj: pics RE: fsj: charging problems fsj: TH400 vs TF727/Dana 300 combo FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 11:17:46 -0800 From: john meister Subject: fsj: Re: [FSJparts] ebay cool stuff Tim! passing this on to the FSJ list... john On 3/24/02 1:34 AM, "Tim Lynn (jeepbum)" wrote: > I don't usually post my auctions to the list, but there are some rare dealer > items from the Kaiser and AMC era this time. Go take a look. > > http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&user > id=jeepbum77-at-hotmail.com&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=100 > > Tim Lynn > jeepbum77-at-hotmail.com > tlynn-at-sheltonbbs.com - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux ** (plain text please!) ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. ...and remember, leaving life without Jesus just isn't recommended... - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 13:34:06 -0800 From: john meister Subject: fsj: charging problems Jim may be right about the battery being damaged from being drained, you can get it load tested to verify. The other issue is corrosion in the wiring or a bad ground. In many, many years in electronics and wiring I've never seen an ammeter fail in such a way that you wouldn't know it immediately. (generally there's smoke). What may be going on is corrosion on the connectors on back of the amp gauge and poorly routed wires with bad connections. Bypassing the amp gauge from the back of the alternator over to the battery is not a bad idea. However, when I've tried to completely eliminate the wiring back under the dash the Jeep wouldn't run. I don't know if someone jury-rigged the wiring or whether Jeep used that alternator wire to run things under the dash. Either way I recommend now leaving the wiring in place and making sure it's secure and protected. Clean the back of the amp gauge connectors and if possible replace it with a voltmeter. You'd simply connect the two wires running to the amp gauge to one connection (the positive lead of the volt meter) and the other side of the voltmeter to ground. Again, be careful about wire routing and connections. Seek a good ground from the battery to the frame/body and engine. Avoid running ground wires directly back to the battery from under the dash. Make sure the body and frame have solid ground connections. Remember an ammeter is nothing more than a coil that moves a needle relative to the amount of current flowing through it. If it opens up you get nothing on the other end.. nothing... if it shorts the needle doesn't move but you get the same thing on the other end. Anywhere in between open and short is highly unlikely. HOWEVER, corrosion in the wiring, or at the terminals of the gauge may add resistance, create heat, and decrease the voltage seen on the other side. john > Subject: Re: fsj: charging trouble > A: You are probably not going to like this, but it's your ammeter that is the > problem. It has nearly open circuited on you, and it's not allowing power back > to the battery (or your battery is toast from running down to nothing. Even a > new battery will croak if it's run totally down) Add a jumper wire from the > alternator main output to the battery positive and make sure there is a ground > wire from the battery negative to the fender as well as the motor. FSJs don't > charge properly without them! > From: wp3 > Subject: fsj: charging trouble - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux ** (plain text please!) ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. ...and remember, leaving life without Jesus just isn't recommended... - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 13:51:45 -0800 From: "Phillips, Scott" Subject: fsj: RE: TH400 Info No CJ ever came with a TH400. That's why I was hoping for some info from the list. I haven't even climbed under my wag. Anyone know if there is an adapter that goes between the TH400 and the BW1339? If so I wonder what the bolt pattern to the TH400 is. Any further info would be helpful. Thanks again. Scott Jim wrote: A: If the CJs came with D300 TH400 combo, you could use the parts to swap it in. (adapter housing and trans output shaft) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 14:04:58 -0800 From: "Phillips, Scott" Subject: fsj: RE: TH400 Info Brad - what were your plans to mount the 300 to the FSJ? What transmission were you planning on using. Thanks, Scott Brad wrote: I'm doing okay! The D300 is sitting in my garage waiting for me to buy another FSJ... ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 16:21:30 -0600 From: "Phillips, Scott" Subject: fsj: RE: TH400 Info R.J. Baynum wrote: Why? I think the Quadra trac is better and the Dana 44 is a tougher drive line.. If it's not broke don't fix it... some people want a dana 44 and the quadra trac.. not to get rid of it.. shaking the head..in disgust.. R.J. Thanks for the non-info R.J. Anything helpful to add??? Besides your "shaking the head..in disgust.." comment? Replacing the 44 because the shafts have given way twice already with the 401 and the weight of a fully trail loaded FSJ. I don't want to spend money on special alloy shafts when I've already got a Dana 60 that I can bolt up and use. AFA the Quadra trac - your opinion is yours and I happen to have a different one. I'd prefer the ability to have a 2wd vehicle when I want it. I've also got a twinstick shifter on it so it would be nice to be able to have 2wd low when I need it. Besides at $8 - $9 a bottle for the fluid it's hardly economical to change the fluid. Dana 300 uses 80-90 wt oil and I can fill the whole case for $8. If you want the QT and rear 44 you're welcome to it. Name a fair price to you since you think it's worth something and you've got it. Scott ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 17:44:30 -0600 From: "R.J. Baynum" Subject: fsj: Re: [az_vjc] News Flash! found a new source for parts for FSJ..and CJ's And your point? R.J Ed Borawski wrote: > Parts shipped from Sydney Australia > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "R.J. Baynum" > To: ; ; > ; ; ; > ; <1FSJ-at-yahoogroups.com>; > ; ; > ; <4x4Jeeps-at-yahoogroups.com>; > > Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 10:43 PM > Subject: [az_vjc] News Flash! found a new source for parts for FSJ..and CJ's > > > I think a found a new source for parts for the FSJ and old FSJ like > CJ-10's even.. > > > > I have never heard of this place, myself and it is not in my book marks.. > > you may want to check it out and add to your bookmarks for the future.. > > The site is. > > http://www.4x4only.com/ > > > > ( new to me) > > > > R.J.Baynum > > J-10 Honcho ( Says they carry J-10 parts!) > > Huntsville AL. > > > > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 15:52:01 -0800 From: "seevers" Subject: fsj: Re: RE: TH400 Info Scott Phillips writes: > No CJ ever came with a TH400. That's why I was hoping for some info from > the list. What about 70's CJ7s? - -brad ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 15:54:40 -0800 From: "seevers" Subject: fsj: Re: RE: TH400 Info I was either going to use a TF727 or an T176. But now I would rather go T18 and D20. - -brad Scott Phillips writes: > Brad - what were your plans to mount the 300 to the FSJ? What transmission > were you planning on using. > Thanks, > Scott > > Brad wrote: > I'm doing okay! The D300 is sitting in my garage waiting for me to buy > another FSJ... ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 16:31:42 -0800 From: "Phillips, Scott" Subject: fsj: RE: RE: TH400 Info Man - I didn't even think of that! But it still leaves me with the question of the QT bolt pattern. Any idea if it's similar to the 1339? Thanks, Scott - -----Original Message----- From: seevers [mailto:seevers-at-ihpc.net] Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 3:52 PM To: Phillips, Scott; fsj-at-digest.net Subject: Re: RE: TH400 Info Scott Phillips writes: > No CJ ever came with a TH400. That's why I was hoping for some info from > the list. What about 70's CJ7s? - -brad ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 17:11:25 -0800 From: john meister Subject: fsj: Re: carb happiness... I'm sure a factory reman will be fine. I've bought a couple of used Edelbrocks before and not had trouble. My son paid about $279 for his carb... I think... john On 3/24/02 5:18 AM, "Vince Orr" wrote: > Hey John and everyone: > Has anyone ever ordered the factory remanufactured Edelbrock carburators? > If I order a remanufactured 1406 for the Rez, it would save about $50. Also > saw a few on ebay for even less (but they need work). Anyone out there have > experience with this? > --Vince > '81 Wag > '99 TJ > - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux ** (plain text please!) ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. ...and remember, leaving life without Jesus just isn't recommended... - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 18:17:47 -0800 From: "seevers" Subject: fsj: Re: RE: TH400 Info The BW QT bolt pattern is a pattern all its own. Also, the input shaft is unique. To mate a D300 to a TH400, you will need aftermarket parts -- such as AA. Another problem you might have using a D300 with a TH400 is interfearance with the front driveline and the TH400 pan -- especially if you have a CV (actually, double cardon) joint on the transfercase end of the front driveline. If this is a problem, possible ways to get around it are reclocking the t-case, grinding on the TH400, eliminating the CV joint or reversing the front driveshaft, and adding lift. The D300 does not offset the front output as far as most other t-cases, such as the D20, NP2XX, and BW QT. If you find a chevy TH400 mated to a NP2XX t-case, the adaptor will work to mate the D300 to the TH400, except -- it will be clocked differently than the D300 is normally. This might be good -- it could help provide clearance to the front driveshaft. But, the output shaft used for TH400 to New Process t-cases will not work for the D300 because Chevy uses a different spline count than jeep. Chevy is something like 27. The D300 will be 23. So that doesn't solve all the problems. If you want a really bullet-proof drivetrain, you might want to consider an NP205 t-case mated to your TH400. TH400 to NP205 combinations were factory in some GM vehicles. The NP205 is one of the strongest t-cases ever made. Its a tight fit clearing the frame rails in an FSJ with an NP205, but some FSJers have done it successfully. - -brad Scott writes: > Man - I didn't even think of that! But it still leaves me with the question > of the QT bolt pattern. Any idea if it's similar to the 1339? > Thanks, > Scott > > > -----Original Message----- > From: seevers [mailto:seevers-at-ihpc.net] > Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 3:52 PM > To: Phillips, Scott; fsj-at-digest.net > Subject: Re: RE: TH400 Info > > > Scott Phillips writes: > > > No CJ ever came with a TH400. That's why I was hoping for some info from > > the list. > > What about 70's CJ7s? > > -brad ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 21:04:19 -0700 From: "JC Jones" Subject: fsj: RE: RE: RE: TH400 Info The CJ was available with the TH400/BW1339 Combo for at least a few years. BTW, I too believe the BW1339 is one of the best transfer cases ever installed from the factory. Somebody had mentioned they were having a problem with D44's and a 401. I think they need to learn to keep their foot out of the carburetor, a D44 is more than strong enough to hold up to a 401 if skill is applied rather than brute force. JC Jones http://www.wagoneer.net 1979 Jeep J-10 "Max" 1984 Grand Wagoneer "Eeyore" 1978 MB 300D "Fritz" 1986 Jeep XJ Cherokee "Junior" * * * * * =================== "They that can give up * * * * =================== essential liberty to * * * * * =================== obtain a little ============================= temporary safety ============================= deserve neither ============================= liberty nor safety." ============================= -Benjamin Franklin - -> -----Original Message----- - -> From: owner-fsj-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-fsj-at-digest.net] On - -> Behalf Of Phillips, Scott - -> Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2002 5:32 PM - -> To: 'seevers' - -> Cc: 'fsj-at-digest.net' - -> Subject: fsj: RE: RE: TH400 Info - -> - -> - -> Man - I didn't even think of that! But it still leaves me - -> with the question of the QT bolt pattern. Any idea if it's - -> similar to the 1339? Thanks, Scott - -> - -> - -> -----Original Message----- - -> From: seevers [mailto:seevers-at-ihpc.net] - -> Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 3:52 PM - -> To: Phillips, Scott; fsj-at-digest.net - -> Subject: Re: RE: TH400 Info - -> - -> - -> Scott Phillips writes: - -> - -> > No CJ ever came with a TH400. That's why I was hoping for - -> some info - -> > from the list. - -> - -> What about 70's CJ7s? - -> - -> -brad - -> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 00:16:52 -0600 From: "R.J. Baynum" Subject: fsj: floors for Jeeps..? I wonder if http://www.raybuck.com would have it? this is a online junkyard Data Base.. http://www.junkyarddog.com/ parts for Jeeps, may have floors.. http://www.specialtyparts.com/ body parts online.. http://www.expressbodyparts.com/ also,.. http://www.autobodypartsonline.com/ Or,.. http://www.autobodysupply.net/ or the old standby , what if..? http://www.jcwhitney.com/ My other Useful links, I found For anyone interested.. Interiors & seats.... http://www.saddleman.com/ automotive carpet.. http://www.automotivecarpet.com/ more,.. bud's auto carpet.. http://www.plasticsmall.com/auto/ auto body fasteners, the stupid plastic screws,.. http://www.autofastco.com/ auto paint from 1904 , and up .. http://www.roxboro.net/paintman/ more paint,. http://www.autocolor.com/ http://www.englishcolor.com/ Extreme paint that different.. http://www.extreme-paint.com/product.htm how about mood Paint? ,.. http://web2.airmail.net/robmu/colors.html Bumpers.. http://www.bumpers.com/ Automotive Trim.. http://customautotrim.com/ Touch up paint,.. http://www.oempaints.com/ Literature and posters.. http://www.crazyjerry.com/ Color match any paint.. http://www.color-rite.com/ Real Nascar Racing colors.. http://www.tru-match.com/ use your paint code to match,. http://www.truecolorsautocenter.com/pre-owned2.html Auto paint class 101, the FAQ's you never thought or wanted to ask.. http://members.tripod.com/~bobstory/faq.html other odd links.. http://www.allsportautoracks.com/ http://www.thepartsource.net/ http://www.carsatdiscount.com/ http://www.rkom.com/links6.htm http://www.bauergear.com/ http://hometown.aol.com/truckrails http://www.dupont.com/automotive/applications/exterior/ http://www.gearonthego.com/ custom graphics.. http://www.customautotrim.com/products/graphics.htm Browser with a bunch of links.. on racks.. http://www.megabrowser.com/mega/site/search?q=luggage+and+utility+racks one of the best rack systems.. http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/default.asp Thule's rain gutter racks.. http://www.a1-autoracks.com/thulegutter.html auto trim design... http://www.autotrimdesign.com/main.html pick ups.. http://www.worktruck.com/ http://www.ysa.com.tw/index.html also.. http://sportplus.net/ http://www.allsportautoracks.com/ http://www.thepartsource.net/ http://www.carsatdiscount.com/ http://www.rkom.com/links6.htm http://www.bauergear.com/ http://hometown.aol.com/truckrails http://www.dupont.com/automotive/applications/exterior/ http://www.gearonthego.com/ custom graphics.. http://www.customautotrim.com/products/graphics.htm Browser with a bunch of links.. on racks.. http://www.megabrowser.com/mega/site/search?q=luggage+and+utility+racks one of the best rack systems.. http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/default.asp Thule's rain gutter racks.. http://www.a1-autoracks.com/thulegutter.html auto trim design... http://www.autotrimdesign.com/main.html pick ups.. http://www.worktruck.com/ http://www.ysa.com.tw/index.html also.. http://sportplus.net/ Hope this helps! R.J. Baynum Huntsville AL. 80 J-10 Honcho Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 13:06:48 EST From: Bgotro-at-aol.com Subject: Any source for Chief floor pans? Today has not been a good day. I thought 'wow what a beautiful day, I think I will work on the Chief'. My wife bought a complete carpet kit for Christmas for the Chief so I figured this would be as good a day as any to do the deed. I pulled out the seats and the console, lifted up the carpet and saw daylight( through the floor). I knew I had a small leak from the windshield but I didn't realize there was a sponge under the carpet that wasn't allowing the water to dry out. I am going to have to replace most of the floorboard. I will make the floor myself if I have to but if anyone knows of a source for replacement panels, I sure would appreciate the info. I am going back outside to vacuum out all the rust. Phillip S. Losh '79 Cherokee Chief ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:04:01 CST From: Dan Black Subject: fsj: pics I put a bunch of new pics up on the web. The main directory is: http://129.186.79.84/FSJ/ That'll probably be a semi-permanent location; that is, I'll probably keep that directory there until I have a faster home connection, which may not be for years. I will probably eventually add some actual pages describing the various pics and stuff. In the meantime, y'all are welcome to use the pics for your own pages. And I'd like to hear if anything is mislabeled, but most of it is pretty straightforward. Of current interest: battery: Have a few pics of the connections in the '74 and '88. Started by getting where the negative cable on the '74 bolts to the engine block because of the discussion of that recently. Those are the ones whose names start with "-" and have "(74)" in them. Also got some of the same thing on the '88 since it's slightly different; it has a somewhat annoying bolt that goes upward under a steel ridge... Anyway, then I saw that on the '74, there was enough room (lack of emissions junk, mainly) that I could lower the camera down and, thanks to the LCD letting me still see what it was pointing at, take a picture of the positive connection clear down below. So those are all in there. heat riser: I also saw that I had a great shot of the heat riser from above in the '74; again, lack of junk in the engine compartment let me do that. So I got some pics so people who aren't familiar with it can see what it looks like and where it is (basically on the exhaust between the right exhaust manifold and the Y). On the 74...2b pic, I circled the main bits... The blue is where it's mounted in the exhaust; the red is the hammer-shaped valve thingy that goes back and forth (spring-loaded; you can see the spiral-shaped spring) -- I think that's the part that typically makes all the noise. (I won't even say it makes noise "if or when it breaks" because chances are, if you have a heat riser, it's broken. Unless you just replaced it, in which case, wait a few months.) Then I got pics of the spacer I had them replace it with in the '88. Harder to get good pics of it, but there isn't much to take pics of anyway; just looks like, well, a spacer in the exhaust. :) So anyway, if I hadn't mentioned it here yet and you hadn't figured it out, I got a digital camera recently; it's mine-mine (not just borrowed). So if anybody has any other requests of pics, let me know, and I'll see what I can do. They're fairly quick 'n' easy now. :) - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut. -- Ernest Hemingway - -------------- Dan Black ------------------------- dan-at-black.org -------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:41:15 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: RE: fsj: charging problems thanx for the follow up. :) Corrosion is enemy number one. It reduces totat voltage seen at an accessory, reduces battery capacity and creates localized heat that may result in roadside BBQs. :) Some people blame the innocent victims for the problem, relays, ammeters, and so on. But the real problem is usually caused by galvanic corrosion created by dissimilar metals. Look at the connections, they're a mix of copper, aluminum and cheap metal of one kind or another. :) john On Mon, 25 Mar 2002, wp3 wrote: >-->one of the connections from the alternator had some corroison on it and one of >-->the cells in the battery was bad. >-->that should do it hopefully, and thanks for your help. >-->will >-->80 j10 >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux ** (plain text please!) ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. ...and remember, leaving life without Jesus just isn't recommended... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 17:48:55 GMT From: Ken Gaines Subject: fsj: TH400 vs TF727/Dana 300 combo I have a Dana 300 mounted to a TF727 in my FSJ-powered 1980 CJ7. While installing the combo, I ran into the clearance problem with my front driveshaft. I took care of the problem with a springover lift...completed this weekend, I might add...almost 6 inches on my CJ7. Another thing that a lot of CJ owners run into with a TF727 install is that the FSJ kickdown is not only too long to fit in the CJ frame, it is a pain in the neck to adjust. To remedy this problem, the Lokar kickdown cable is just what Dr. Jeep ordered. For ease of installation/adjustment and reliability, the Lokar cable has 'em all beat HANDS DOWN. The TF727 and Dana 300 combo is a really neat set-up. Contrary to popular belief, a Dana 300 transfer case will bolt DIRECTLY to an FSJ TF727. I know this because that is where my TF727 came from. There is NO offset bolt hole or stud on either the transmission adapter or the transfer case flange. There is what APPEARS to be an offset hole on the transmission adapter. This "offset hole" isn't even in the bolt circle for the 6 studs the Dana 300 transfer case uses. You can't overcome the front driveshaft clearance issue with "clocking" of the T/C. The reason is that if you clock it downward, the front yoke will be pointing almost DIRECTLY downward and it will be centered in relation to the front driveshaft. This will give you an undesirable compound driveshaft angle. It may also cause lack of lubrication issues in the T/C itself. If you try to clock the T/C upward by one hole, you will never be able to get the front driveshaft in the truck...the engine and bellhousing are definitely in the way. It is best to just leave it clocked the way it is originally and tackle the clearance issue with a lift of some kind. A CJ7 needs AT LEAST 4" of lift to pull it off. Because of the longer wheel base, an FSJ may be able to get away with a little less lift, but I wouldn't chance it. If the front passenger side suspension compresses too much, say goodbye to Mr. Transmission because it will eat the pan and mounting flange on the bottom of the TF727. I also installed a dropped bump stop brace in my CJ to prevent this from happening. You will not be able to get a double-cardan u-joint on the space between the transmission and the front of the t-case with a TF727/Dana 300 combo. Just put the "short end" (double cardan end) of the front driveshaft on the diff yoke. No problem there. If you have a LOT of lift, clearance won't be a problem, but rear driveshaft angles may be. I was able to tackle this during the process of my SOA by pointing the pinion yoke at the rear t-case yoke before welding the perches on the axle tube. I have about as straight a rear driveline angle as you can get. One more thing about a Dana 300 t-case...it uses strap-style retainers for the u-joints. There is no way to drill the yokes to accept a u-bolt, BUT, there is a way to fix it. Most FSJ'ers should have access to a BW 13-39 (QT) transfer case. If you have access to TWO QT cases, this is even better. The FRONT yoke of a BW 13-39 t/c will bolt directly onto a Dana 300 transfer case. Both Dana 300 output yokes are the same size/spline count. SOOOO...if you can get 2 FRONT output yokes from 2 QT cases, you can fix the problem of the strap-style u- joint retainers. U-bolts are, of course, the same as the QT case would use. I have the P/N's at home. I will post them tomorrow if anyone is interested. The last thing that is really nice about my TF727/Dana 300 combo is the fact that I did the twin-stick mod on the case. Now, I can control both axles independently of one another. I can also run in front-wheel-drive WITHOUT excessive torque wrap in the rear should I toss a driveshaft or roast a u- joint...or, God forbid, destroy another rear end. This was REALLY simple to do. If anyone else is interested in how I did it, let me know and I will email/post instructions and maybe even some pics if I can get a digital camera. On the FSJ side of the house, I just acquired a new project. It is my friend's 1979 (?) Cherokee Chief. It is needing a new engine very badly. So, we have decided to install an early Bronco driveline and suspension in it. 351M engine, C6 trans, NP205 (?) T/C, Ford 9" rear, Dana 44 front, coil spring front suspension. Any tips here, guys? Talk to you all again soon. Enjoy Ouray...I'll be on Padre Island kicking up sand. O)||||||(O Ken "Life is a journey that's measured not in miles or years, but in experiences" - -Jimmy Buffett "A Pirate Looks at Fifty" 1998 ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1600 **************************