From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Sun Jun 2 19:09:39 2002 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Sunday, June 2 2002 Volume 01 : Number 1657 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: Re: Alternator/Regulator Re: fsj: Re: Projects from the past Re: fsj: charging-problem and test results Re: fsj: charging-problem and test results Re: fsj: Re: Alternator/Regulator fsj: off-topic question... fsj: Rack done, Sunroof in! FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 10:47:13 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: Re: Alternator/Regulator At 01:19 PM 6/1/2002 -0400, fsj-digest wrote: >From: "R.J. Baynum" >Subject: Re: fsj: charging-problem and test results > >Your alt should be putting out at the very least, 14 amps, running at >idle,, and no more then 16. > > Go to somewhere like auto auto zone or pep boys, and have them test it, > with a tester.. It may be the Voltage regulator which is built in to the alt.. >Since, it brightens , when you take off, it sounds like the alt is working.. agreed, but like RJ said, the regulator is built in... regardless of whether it's the diode pack or the regulator, just replace the whole enchilada. :) And I think RJ meant 14 volts, not amps... ;) Sounds like a good time to take it to an electrical/starter/alt rebuild shop and have that guppy souped up a bit. Don't go too crazy with a cheaper high output setup as you won't get enough "juice" at lower rpm. Seems like our old FSJs eat alternators and starters... On superdawg I'll be using the newer XJ style alternator with the 4.0L, I can't see why one of those couldn't be adapted to an FSJ. john - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 18:16:09 -0700 From: "Jim B" Subject: Re: fsj: Re: Projects from the past From: john Subject: fsj: Re: Projects from the past At 04:20 PM 5/31/2002 -0500, Richard wrote: > howdy John, > >yah, it was a big deal on the fsj list >back when I was on it. Sounded like >he was making progress too. Using >a ford 5.0 computer and some other >parts. Was supposed to end up with >an adaptive EFI system that would >bolt on a 360 w/4bbl manifold. > >had to machine the manifold of course, >for the injectors. > >well if you talk to him, ask him how >it went/goes. will pass this along to him (hiding your email address because of your sig file, but will try to save yours so when he replies I can send it to you... ;) A: Would that be Mike? He's got it in parts still. >hey, i've been thinking of a 4.0 myself; >for the J20. a 4.0 with some perf. enhancements; >maybe even a turbo kit one day. the stroker setup might be the way to go, mix a 4.2L and 4.0L together, crank from one, something from another and voila, a "stroker". As for me, I'm sticking with something that's basically "normal". A: The basic formula is 4.2L crank in a 4.0L block, but the choice of rods and pistons seems to be rapidly changing. The best set up is http://www.accuratepower.com 's kit. 4.0L rods with custom pistons with the right compression ratio to run standard gas. My version would need premium gas (11:1 compression) but I will run LPG which is cheaper than gas still at the right places. Mine is just 4.0L pistons on 4.2L rods with the block shaved 0.050 to get quench right. The EGR and knock sensor will still function when I am on gasoline (infrequently I hope! Premium is expensive!) >My brother's been a saab nut for years and >years. His current car is a '92 9000, and >that thing has a 4-banger in it that puts out >more hp AND more torque than my 360 ! > >from half the cu-in. > >the miracle of advanced fuel/ignition systems >and TURBO's. > >At the same time, the car gets 30mpg in normal use. Diesels do that usually too... :) >bro sez that smaller engines waste less fuel >during idle and part-throttle (i.e. 90% of usage); >and a turbo gives you big hp when you need it. > >So i'm starting to get sold on the "small engine >with turbo" concept... > >Hey, do you know whether a 4.0 or 4.2 will >bolt right up to the 727 tranny in the J20 without >any adaptors, shaft-mods, etc?? Or does something >need to be modded or swapped out? the 4.0 and 4.2L will both bolt up to the same transmission, the only issue with the starter, I think... otherwise it's the same. A: A bit more involved than that. You can use the 4.2L flexplate and starter (or the 360 flexplate re-balanced, which can be more than buying a new 6 cyl plate!) but you will need a harmonic balancer kit to fire the EFI, OR you could machine the 727 bellhousing to take the CPS and use the 4.0L flexplate with a 727 pattern machine drilled (took me 3 hours to drill 3 holes in a Nissan plate by hand!) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 18:18:57 -0700 From: "Jim B" Subject: Re: fsj: charging-problem and test results A: Make sure you have a good ground to the body (not the motor one) from the battery. Every FSJ and GM has the same trouble when the ground wire goes bad. Then check the ammeter isn't melting from terminal corrosion Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 10:57:42 -0600 From: "Daniel Beiers" Subject: fsj: charging-problem and test results guys, i think a have a charging problem in my waggy. problem: when coming to a stop my radio will turn on and off sporadically due to the lack of power. if i have my lights on or the heater motor or wipers, it pretty much stays off until i accelerate. the lights obviously dim (to dangerously low levels) and forget about having a turn signal on. the same goes for any combination of 2 power accessories. lights will dim and heater will stop or wipers will run slow and radio will go off...you all probably get the point. history: i can't recall when this started occurring. it may have existed for the entire time i have owned the waggy. i have had a lot of little things to pay attention to so this hasn't been on the priority list too long. in december, on my way back from vail, i stopped in georgetown for gas. waggy wouldn't start again. nothing at the battery. got a jump start and headed down the road. made it to denver before the thing shut itself down. started it with my cj battery and found the alt wasn't charging. replaced the alt with a autolite unit (yes, i know, checker parts, but i was a little short on cash around the holidays :) it works but as i wrote above, its not working too well. i might have trashed the battery but i can't be certain. it starts every morning just fine. status: battery level is good, cables are brand new (2ga i think) wiring to and from alt. is really good, replaced a bad connector, starter solenoid is new. test: -at- batt. term. before test (just after a 15 minute drive)=12.0v in park-nothing on (idle -at- 1750 +/-): -at- batt. cables = 13.3v -at- terminal on back of alternator = 16.3v in park-lights, wipers, and heater on: -at- batt. cables = 12.9v -at-alt. = 14.6v in gear - nothing on (idles -at- 1100 +/-): -at- batt. = 12.9v -at- alt. = 14.5v in gear-lights, radio, and heater on (radio was not actually working) -at- batt. = 12.5v -at- alt. = 10.8v batt. just aftyer test with radio on and key in start position: 11.4v i have no idea what any of this means or if the test was valid. i was hoping one of you fine FSJ'ers could help me out. thanks for reading through this, any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated. thanks dan ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 18:21:57 -0700 From: "Jim B" Subject: Re: fsj: charging-problem and test results A: You have your amps and volts mixed up. BTW, if you pull the battery cable off any car with electronic ignition and electronic voltage regulator you run a big chance of blowing the alt, or ignition module or even worse with an EFI vehicle! From: "R.J. Baynum" Subject: Re: fsj: charging-problem and test results Your alt should be putting out at the very least, 14 amps, running at idle,, and no more then 16. Go to somewhere like auto auto zone or pep boys, and have them test it, with a tester.. It may be the Voltage regulator which is built in to the alt.. Since, it brightens , when you take off, it sounds like the alt is working.. My dad had a old trick, , which would word for these older cars, as a test if it is the alt, With the engine running, disconnect the negative lead to the battery, if the engine stops, the is is in fact the alternator. It sounds more the voltage regulator R.J. 80 J-10 Huntsville AL. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 20:40:03 -0500 From: "R.J. Baynum" Subject: Re: fsj: Re: Alternator/Regulator oops.. yes... I meant volts.. R.J. john wrote: > At 01:19 PM 6/1/2002 -0400, fsj-digest wrote: > >From: "R.J. Baynum" > >Subject: Re: fsj: charging-problem and test results > > > >Your alt should be putting out at the very least, 14 amps, running at > >idle,, and no more then 16. > > > > Go to somewhere like auto auto zone or pep boys, and have them test it, > > with a tester.. It may be the Voltage regulator which is built in to the alt.. > >Since, it brightens , when you take off, it sounds like the alt is working.. > > agreed, but like RJ said, the regulator is built in... regardless > of whether it's the diode pack or the regulator, just replace the > whole enchilada. :) And I think RJ meant 14 volts, not amps... ;) > > Sounds like a good time to take it to an electrical/starter/alt rebuild > shop and have that guppy souped up a bit. Don't go too crazy with a > cheaper high output setup as you won't get enough "juice" at lower rpm. > > Seems like our old FSJs eat alternators and starters... On superdawg > I'll be using the newer XJ style alternator with the 4.0L, I can't > see why one of those couldn't be adapted to an FSJ. > > john > ------------------------------------------------------------------ > http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ > Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... > jesus, don't leave life without him, please! > ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 23:14:07 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: off-topic question... Quick OT question on PC's. I've got a new Sony Vaio with Win XP home... the stupid thing crashed three times today. Nothing appears wrong with the hardware, all things are pointing to the OS, which I have patched from MS. What I'm wondering is whether or not I should "upgrade" to Windows 2000 or drop back to Win98SE? (I was looking at a Winbook catalog and they charge $99 to upgrade to Windows 2000 from XP home... got me thinking it did... ;) It was suggested to go with XP pro, but that costs $$$$. I have W2K and Win98SE. I'd love to Linux, but after the 'mac' attack I'm going to stay mainstream, you know, the lemming approach to computing... ;) besides, Linux doesn't have enough USB drivers to support my addiction. Anyway, any off list tips, pointers and ideas would be appreciated. Some days I really hate computers... :( thanx, john - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 18:56:31 -0700 From: "Paul and Megan Kershner" Subject: fsj: Rack done, Sunroof in! Yaaayyyyy! It's done! I took the factory rack off the '84 GW and put a set of Yakima Tracks on. I Bondo'd the old holes, sanded, primed and painted the roof (I now have six very nice flat black rectangular spots on my roof). Drilled new holes, installed the tracks, put the Yakima "Locking Railriders" on the tracks, installed the tubular load bars and installed the lock cylinders. Simple - only took this engineer 1-1/2 days. Of course, I overdid everything like I did on my simple 10 x 16 Garden shed. Today, I installed a 17 x 32 NewPort sunroof in the GW. Took the Wag to the local carwash to test the water-tightness and, lo and behold, even with the high pressure the car wash has, no leaks! Next, I'm going to install the headliner, then will put an overhead "console" across the front of the roof. It will be sort of an extra large Glovebox. Hope to have it done by Ouray. The outside looks like H E double L, but if it runs well and is functional, the paint can wait. Paul Kershner ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1657 **************************