From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Fri Aug 16 08:58:57 2002 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Friday, August 16 2002 Volume 01 : Number 1723 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: administrivia: notes on using this list fsj: Ouray - Wednesday August 14, 2002 fsj: To JeepNut! Resistor wire they call it! I sure could use that part number!! Re: fsj: Still working on Rez RE: fsj: 401 flywheel wanted fsj: Re: Starting Problems fsj: today in and around Ouray FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 06:15:00 +0000 From: Richard Welty Subject: fsj: administrivia: notes on using this list Digest.Net mailing list "Meta FAQ" These general notes on using Digest.Net mailing lists are posted on the 1st and 15th of each month. This file may be found on the web at http://www.digest.net/general-notes.txt [last revised 5/1/02; removed list of spam strings, as i'm not the only one filtering on them -- rpw] Additional information on Digest.Net's spam policies may be found at http://www.digest.net/email-policy.html and http://www.digest.net/blocked.html Table of Contents 1. Why don't my postings go through? 2. Why can't I unsubscribe? 3. How do I post to the list? 4. Where are the archives? 5. What other lists are on digest.net? 6. Is there a web subscription form? 7. Why not move the lists to someplace like (egroups, topica,...)? 8. How do I contact the server adminstrator in an emergency? 9. What is Krusty Motorsports, anyway? The Meta-FAQ 1. Why don't my postings go through? There are several things that may interfere with postings making it to the list. a) Are you a member? Some read the ftp archives rather than receiving the list in email. Persons who read the list via email are automatically members, but readers of the FTP archive are not, and need to contact me (rwelty-at-krusty-motorsports.com) and get your name added to the list of "permitted senders". b) has your email address changed? some of you have had changes in your email address. your old address still works, and is still on the list, but your From: line shows a new address. this can happen for various reasons; you may have changed jobs or ISPs, and left a forward in place, or your IT staff may have fiddled with the email system. you will need to unsubscribe your old email address and subscribe the new one. this may require my involvement, if you can't figure out a way to get your old address off the list using the conventional majordomo commands. you can use the majordomo "which" command to probe for old addresses. send a message to majordomo-at-digest.net with one or more which commands in the body, one per line. to check for potential addresses for Fred Flinstone, formerly of bedrock.org, the following commands can be sent: which flintstone which bedrock note that the matches above might return any of the following addresses, if they appear in the list (in other words, you can use vagueness and incompleteness in your recollection as a tool): Fred.Flinstone-at-bedrock.org fflinstone-at-wilma.bedrock.org flintstonef-at-bedrock.com c) do you have more than one email address? if so, only the subscribed addresses can post, unless you contact me (see 1.a) above for relevant information) d) are you using (intentionally or accidentially) special "features" of your mail client? [this section is no longer operative, as the demime software now strips html, attachments, rich text format, etc. from postings automatically.] e) are your posts too large? there is a 10,000 character limit on posting sizes; this is done for various reasons. you can always split up large postings to get mail through. f) are you including majordomo commands at the start of your message? administrivia control is turned on; this is a trap for things like "unsubscribe" at the start of a message. try to avoid obvious majordomo commands in the subject and the first 10 lines, or misspell them in obvious ways (e.g. unzubscribe, 1ndex, h3lp, g3t, etc.) g) are you triggering spam traps? some things are red flags; for example, many phrases found commonly in spam are automatically blocked. h) are you using "funky" character sets? [7 bit restriction lifted experimentally on 8/2/00 -- film at 11] unfortunately, there are "issues" if i permit any character set other than old fashioned 7 level ASCII; therefore, you need to avoid national character sets that include various accents, umlauts, national currency characters such as the British pound symbol, etc. i) are you unintentionally including complete digests in your reply? You need to check and make sure you cut down replys to the minimal size; digests are between 20,000 and 25,000 characters in length, and if you include a complete digest in your reply, it clearly won't make the 10,000 character limit. By the way, this feature is intentional. j) Are you using a "bad" ISP or mail relay? See http://www.digest.net/email-policy.html for more information about Digest.Net policies about email. k) Is the error message you get back "User Unknown"? If so, you may be running afoul of spam control severices (again, see http://www.digest.net/email-policy.html) When these services register a hit, the error code 550 is returned. 550 is a generic code that many broken mail systems report as "user unknown". The "rejectlog" entries for the previous day's mail traffic on digest.net may be viewed at http://www.digest.net/rejectlog.01 Some of you may find it useful or instructive to use the telnet program to connect directly to port 25 on krusty-motorsports.com and see what kind of reply you get; this requires some technical knowledge and is not for everyone (you can get out of this at anytime after the initial banner simply by typing quit and hitting enter.) l) Is SMTP over TLS involved? This is a bit esoteric, but as of 8/8/01 the digest.net mail server will attempt to use "TLS" (Transport Layer Security) for outbound mail if the destination mail server offers it. SMTP over TLS is fairly new technology, and a bit buggy. I am monitoring the logs on the server, and when I see TLS related problems, I manually place the problem destinations on a special exception list; however, this may delay email to the destination host until I make the exception. 2. Why can't I unsubscribe? a) are you using the right address? send to majordomo-at-digest.net, and the command format is unsubscribe list-name my-email-address b) has your email address changed? majordomo has no way of knowing that Fred.Flinstone-at-BarneyCo.com was once fflintstone-at-bedrock.org. you can check this with the which command (see 1.b) above for details) 3. How do I post to the list? You may use either one of two addresses: for example, the bmw-digest may be reached using either bmw-at-digest.net or bmw-digest-at-digest.net If you are using the correct addresses and your posts don't show up, check out the stuff in 1. above. 4. Where are the archives? see ftp://ftp.digest.net/ for digest archives. the web archives have proven problematic, and are awaiting time for a systematic attack on the problems they've been having. 5. What other lists are on digest.net? see http://www.digest.net/ for more information. 6. Is there a web subscription form? Yes, recently added. go to http://www.digest.net/bin/digest-subs.cgi 7. Why not move the lists to someplace like (egroups, topica,...)? The Krusty Motorsports server (aka, digest.net) was explicitly to provide for efficient management of the various automotive mailing lists, done the way that the owner of the server wanted it done. Any migration off of the server (which is already bought, paid for, and configured) would create any number of issues. 8. How do i contact the Server Administrator in an emergency? If my regular email address (rwelty-at-krusty-motorsports.com) isn't working for you, you can fall back on rwelty-at-suespammers.org 9. What is Krusty Motorsports, anyway? Krusty Motorsports (http:/www.krusty-motorsports.com/) is a business which is owned and operated by Richard Welty (rwelty-at-krusty-motorsports.com). Krusty is an S-Corporation in the State of New York. Krusty provides a number of Internet related services, such as mailing list, web sites, pop3/telnet accounts, and consulting on internet related issues. For more information, see the web site. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 00:11:56 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: fsj: Ouray - Wednesday August 14, 2002 We're here. http://wagoneers.com/ouray/Aug14-john-day4 three of the original 4 FSJ list founders are here too... :) Michael Baxter, (super) Ken Wetherall and John Meister. Mike Lacher no longer has an FSJ, and he was invited but wasn't able to make it. :) enjoy the pictures. :) john meister ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux ** (plain text please!) ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. ...and remember, leaving life without Jesus just isn't recommended... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 07:23:53 -0400 From: "Joe H Lawrence" Subject: fsj: To JeepNut! Resistor wire they call it! I sure could use that part number!! JeepNut, Are you sure you haven't been driving my J10???? This sounds like a problem I have been having. Could you please dig into those files and e-mail me with them or post them to the list???? Thanks - -Joe 1977 Jeep J10 >Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 23:48:05 -0500 >From: JeepNut >Subject: Re: fsj: Still working on Rez >It would be going along just fine, then quit running. Would >not restart or sometimes it would. Fooled with this and >that, replaced a part and it would run for 2 or 3 days then >would not start. Or would suddenly die after running fine >for a couple of days. >There is a PFM wire in there, resistor wire they call it. I >tried to bypass it with a wire and an appropriate resistor, >but that didn't work at all. I dunno what makes it so >special but it is one of the leads off to the alternator I >think... I'll look all this up if you want, I think the >resistor value is supposed to be 1.3ohms or something like >that. Let me know if you want the gory details or decide >you're gonna bite the bullet...I've got the part numbers, >etc. in my files. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 07:43:44 EDT From: BLW1540-at-aol.com Subject: Re: fsj: Still working on Rez In a message dated 8/14/02 11:46:40 PM Central Daylight Time, jeepnut-at-bellsouth.net writes: > I think what happened to mine was that this "resistor" wire > must get hot and over time ended up shorting out things > within the harness... I took it apart after replacement and > a couple of red wires had melty spots in them where the > other wire had been laying across them and was shorting > volts to ground... but only occaisionally apparently... But > I am fairly certain we have had at least one or two other > list members with the "dropped dead symptom" which also > ended up being a harness replacement fix. In the case of my 84 GW, the wire loom leading to the passenger wheel well passed under the air conditioning line and rested against the exhaust manifold, the heat from which melted the insulation, shorted the wires, and the short pretty well fried the resistor wire, with it dead as a doornail when the wires were in electrical contact with the manifold and running after they'd been disturbed in the course of trying to figure out what was wrong so they weren't shorted at that particular moment. There not being any charge in the AC, I was able to correct the basic problem by disconnecting the AC line, rerouting the wire loom over it, and reconnecting it. New wire was spliced in place of the sections with burned insulation and the fried resistor wire was replaced by regular wire and an external resistor mounted on the firewall without any problem other than making the splice at the firewall because of so many wires being involved there. Splices were protected by a couple of layers of heat shrink tubing. Bruce Wilson 84 GW Des Moines, IA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 17:38:02 GMT From: Ken Gaines Subject: RE: fsj: 401 flywheel wanted Scott, Sorry it took me so long to get back to you on this. I have been up and down the coast of Texas for the last 3 weeks or so. I called my friend here and he doesn't have the manual tranny flywheel for a 401. His originally had the TH400 behind it. He also said that there were scarcely any Jeeps with a 401 and manual tranny BUT that there WERE manual trannies behind 401 mills in the AMC muscle cars of the 60's and 70's. Try looking there if you haven't already found what you need. I am about to do yet ANOTHER engine upgrade in my 1980 CJ7. I have in my possession a TBI equipped GM 454 and the original TH400 tranny. When I can cough up the $$ for an Atlas t-case, that combo...along with the Ford front and rear axles...is going ion my CJ7. WOOHOO!!! Good luck with the swap... O)||||||(O Ken > Ken thanks for the detail info - I really appreciate it. It's very helpful. > I need to get the frame mount off the CJ with the 304 V8 (may end up just > fabricating it like you mentioned). I've got the 304 exhaust manifolds > which are shorter than the 401's and will use them to make a custom exhaust. > I'm still not sure if I'll go with dual 2.5" or a single 3" pipe. I guess > I'll sort that out after the motor is in place and the time comes for that. > I'm also planning on new CV long slipyoke driveshafts (3" for sure). I'm > running dana 60's front and rear so I'm not too worried about the R&P (35 > spline alloy axles will be put in as I'm sure the shafts are the original > '76 Dodge shafts). Thanks for the heads up on the fuel line. I'm > essentially doing a frame off on my CJ (actually using a YJ frame and tub > with a CJ front clip) so I should have plenty of oppertunity to find the > "mistakes" that I'll make. > > If you could check with your friend to see if he's got the flywheel I'd be > very grateful. I appreciate the info on the Ram clutch and the ignition > stuff as well (I was wondering what to do for the ignition and even tho I > didn't ask I'm grateful you thought to include those details as well). AFA > a radiator I'll probably take some measurements and find an aluminium 3 core > from one of the circle track places. Cheaper than calling and specifying > that I want something for a CJ and I can fab up my own mounting brackets > once the radiator is "in place." > > Thanks again for the detailed info - you just saved me some headaches and > confirmed some things that I was wondering about. > Scott > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ken Gaines [mailto:klg92733-at-kestrel.tamucc.edu] > Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 8:27 AM > To: fsj-digest-at-digest.net; scott.phillips-at-attws.com > Subject: Re: fsj: 401 flywheel wanted > > > Scott, > I have a few pointers for you on the V8 swap into the CJ7. I did the same > swap > (with new AMC 360) in my 1980 CJ7. > First, if you don't already have a V8 in it, you will need, at the very > least, > the passenger side FRAME motor mount from a CJ5,6,7,8 that had an OEM V8. If > > that isn't an option, you could do what I did and cut an inch out of the > middle > of BOTH frame mounts, weld them back together, and then drop the engine. > Make > sure you get it situated in the frame so that there is an EVER SO SLIGHT > offset > (of engine block centerline) to the passenger side of the frame centerline. > I > think the measurement is about 1.5". If you don't get this part right, the > transmission belly pan will not bolt up without a good bit of "mechanical > agitation" with a LARGE tanker bar...some choice "verbal agitation" may be > necessary as well. Doing this may decrease the lifespan of rubber parts like > > engine mounts and tranny mounts. Keep a good stock of your favorite adult > beverages (beer) on hand...you will need it. > Another point of interest is fuel lines. The CJ7 I6 configuration has the > fuel > lines running down the passenger side frame rail. The V8 needs this > reversed. > Do it while you have the engine out....it is a LOT easier. > The V8 will need exhaust, obviously. Single exhaust is an option, but make > sure > you have the Y-pipe built such that you can get the transmission bellhousing > > out of it without having to pull the exhaust pipes from the manifolds. An > FSJ Y- > pipe will NOT work in a CJ because it has different angles to accommodate a > wider vehicle. You will need two different manifolds to make this swap work > right. The driver side needs a center dump manifold and the passenger side > needs a rear dump manifold. You should be able to find these in just about > any > boneyard with a few FSJ's or even CJ's. My CJ uses dual pipes from OEM > manifolds (without heat riser valve) and it runs great. I would shield the > starter from the exhaust pipe...especially during the summer months. It will > > save you a lot of headaches. I melted (yes, you read right...MELTED) a > battery > cable one day last summer on a trip to Port Aransas, TX. I turned the Jeep > off > at the ferry dock, and when I tried to start it again, the positive cable > vaporized at the connection to the solenoid. (More verbal agitation needed > to > fix this problem...) > Next, get a 3-inch rear driveshaft for the CJ. The little OEM toothpick will > > not stand up to a V8 for very long. I just snapped mine and had to have one > made to the tune of $280. It has a CV, though, so the vibes that the SOA > lift > produced should be gone once I get it rolling again. If you have an AMC 20 > in > the CJ, don't expect it to have a very long life expectancy either. That 401 > > will eventually eat it too. I am about to fix that problem with a Ford 9" > rear > end. I have a TEMPORARY AMC 20 rear end in it right now, but not for long. I > > bet I won't be destroying another rear driveline anytime soon. > Ignition system...while you have then engine out, do the Team Rush Ford TFI > upgrade. You will be glad you did on a hot summer day. Go ahead and change > the > Motorcrap DuraSplat module to an MSD 6-Offorad. It won't heat up and fail on > > you like the OEM module will. > Radiator. The OEM 2-core radiator MIGHT be okay depending on where you live. > I > live in Corpus Christi, TX, so my little OEM 2-row radiator had to go. I > installed an automatic transmission (TF727 from a 1989-ish Wag) and Dana > 300, > so the 2-row was effectively 50% smaller once I put the tranny cooler in > front > of it. Right now, I have a 3-row radiator in it and it runs at about 180*F > when > the outside temp is 90*F+. In the winter, I will have to go with a 190*F > thermostat so that I can have a heater (for our two weeks of winter). You > may > be able to get away with less. I don't even run a thermostat during the > summer > months here. > As for a flywheel, you will have to check the local boneyards where you > live. I > have looked in several places here and I only found ONE AMC 401 block. It > was > in pretty much terrible shape. There was no flywheel/flexplate with > it...just > block and heads with old pistons and rods. The guys on the FSJ Digest list > may > be able to help you find one. I think John M talks about a place called > Olympic > 4x4 a lot. Try looking there for your flywheel. I do know that you will have > to > get the flywheel for a 401 because the engines are balanced differently. A > 360 > flywheel will destroy the crank in a 401. I think I read a thread somewhere > that said you can go UP one block size in flywheels, but not the other way. > In > other words, an AMC 390 flywheel would theoretically work on a 401 crank, > but I > wouldn't chance it without knowing ABSOLUTELY for sure that it would work. I > > have a friend here that put a 401/TH400/Dana 20 in his CJ7. I will ask him > if > he still has the original 401 flywheel. Another place to look is on the > PartsMike.com posting board. I know that Parts Mike has them in stock. > Summit > has AMC flywheels for racing applications. They would probably work in a > Jeep > just fine, but they are expensive. Either way, if you buy a flywheel from an > > Internet merchant, it is going to be expensive. > I had a T-18 in my old CJ5. I used the Ram clutch from Summit Racing. I had > the > flywheel resurfaced before I installed it. The whole clutch job cost me > about > $300. That Ram clutch disc was lined with Kevlar, so it REALLY grabbed and > it > didn't wear out. > If you need anymore help with your retrofit, email me. I have done this swap > at > least a few times. This one has been running for over 2 years now and the > only > problems I have had were not engine related...I grenaded a T-4 transmission > and > destroyed an AMC 20 rear end. > Good luck and Keep on Jeepin'!!! > O)||||||(O > Ken > > "Life is a journey that's measured not in miles or years, but in > experiences" > -Jimmy Buffett > "A Pirate Looks at Fifty" > 1998 "Life is a journey that's measured not in miles or years, but in experiences" - -Jimmy Buffett "A Pirate Looks at Fifty" 1998 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 14:32:00 -0500 From: "Vince Orr" Subject: fsj: Re: Starting Problems Bruce: Tell me about the resistor. Was it exactly 1.35 ohm or did you do something special? I found that Radioshack sells a 1.0 ohm resistor. You mentioned you mounted the resistor on the firewall.....how did you do that exactly? - --Vince - ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 5:39 PM Subject: Starting Problems > At this point, I'd be taking a hard look at the wiring, especially the > resistor wire going to the coil and the wire loom running to the passenger > wheel well. > > I had a problem with my 84 GW a few years ago now that was traced to the loom > resting against the exhaust manifold on the passenger side, causing a short > that fried the unprotected resistor wire. What drove us nuts about it was > that it was an intermittent short, depending on whether the exposed wire was > resting against the manifold or if it'd been jiggled or bumped enough while > messing with other things to cause it to be clear of the manifold. When it > was shorted, the engine would crank, but there wasn't a hint of a spark. > After finding the problem, I spliced in new wire to replace the burned > sections and replaced the resistor wire with regular wire and an external > resistor mounted on the firewall. > > Bruce Wilson > 84 GW > Des Moines, IA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 00:05:16 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: fsj: today in and around Ouray http://www.wagoneers.com/ouray/Aug15-john-Ouray-day1/ went to 4 corners and Mesa Verde today... coming back north on 550 saw 8 deer and 1 very large racoon. :) john ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux ** (plain text please!) ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. ...and remember, leaving life without Jesus just isn't recommended... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1723 **************************