From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Thu Sep 5 14:54:04 2002 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Thursday, September 5 2002 Volume 01 : Number 1740 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: cam advance fsj: 1963 wag project update fsj: Re: Black Jack's specs (was Re: How about something going right? Good news!) fsj: projects just up and went away... :) fsj: tf727 or ps pump? fsj: a call for stories from Ouray... fsj: Check Your Toilet Chain fsj: Re: Check Your Toilet Chain - don't forget the hoses... FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 07:16:16 -0700 From: Tesar Landon-r16884 Subject: fsj: cam advance Ditto. I will just add that there are fancy/good timing sets that have oblong keys, as you rotate the key, it will rotate the cam gear just a little, allowing you to 'degree in' the cam. But, you know, the cam manufacturers have made quite a science out of this, and often build in the same difference you are trying to achieve by degreeing. I would talk to the manufacturer, unless it's edelbrock, whom I have little respect for, except for aluminum manifolds, hardly a claim for excellence. - - Landon =============== not 1 tooth! That would be about 15 degrees! Way too much! We notch the cam keyway on a different angle at a machine shop. ----- Original Message ----- From: Vince Orr Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 7:41 PM To: Jim B; FSJ List Subject: Re: fsj: Re: AMC 360 build Thanks Jim! I was wondering if that would be the thing to do! One tooth of the sprocket would probably make all the difference on the low end. But I think I'll wait for now. Too much trouble to adjust it and I'd mess up my new engine paint! --Vince ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim B" < carnuck-at-hotmail.com> To: "local Jeep list" < fsj-at-digest.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 2:15 AM Subject: Re: fsj: Re: AMC 360 build > A: If you want to get back some of that bottom end, advance the timing chain > set 3-5 degrees. (10 would be too much) You move the whole power band down > with it, so you lose some top end. I'm dialing in the cam for my stroker this > way. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 11:12:11 -0700 From: "Faith Jeff" Subject: fsj: 1963 wag project update hi all, just finished new rear wheel bearings in my 1963 wag project. (my axles are from a 75 blazer) i got a couple new wheel studs, and dyed the rest. had to get an offset bearing because of wear on the axle shaft...went in nice. i got a new dif gasket too, since i was in there. got parts to do brakes (one new drum, and one fresh turned drum) new pads, and new seals and springs...but that will have to wait for e-brake parts. my exhaust kit is on order. after that, drive shaft and a seat, and my first test drive i think. later, jeff This electronic message transmission, including any attachments, contains information from Prescription Solutions which may be confidential or privileged. The information is intended to be for the use of the individual or entity named above. If you are not the intended recipient, be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of the contents of this information is prohibited. If you have received this electronic transmission in error, please notify the sender immediately by a "reply to sender only" message and destroy all electronic and hard copies of the communication, including attachments. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 12:25:48 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: Re: Black Jack's specs (was Re: How about something going right? Good news!) nice spec sheet Jim... I'll want to see how those springs ride when you're done. I only want to go 4" though so I don't get into funny driveline vibs... right now SuperDawg has about 2 or 3 inches... I'm after a nice comfy ride with plenty of articulation... don't want stiff springs, will haul gravel in my trailer... ;) john At 12:21 PM 9/4/2002 -0700, Jim B wrote: >A: Avoiding break-downs is the same reason why my J10 is getting >everything new or near new under the hood. > >Motor (289 cu in 6 cyl stroker zero miles) >Trans (AW4 from '95 XJ with only 60,000 kms) >Transfercase (NV241 OR with 4:1 low range, brand new) >Axles (D44 SOA front with new 4.10 gears and bearings with Warn locking >hubs and new brakes. Good used D60-2 4.10 rear with custom Moser axles to >allow for the 6 bolt wheels and 14mm studs) > >Brakes (GM Hydro-boost with 1 ton calipers on the new front rotors and '76 >Blazer 11 5/8" rear brakes) > >Driveshafts and Ujoints (re-length shafts and new 1339 joints) > >Electric (partially '90 XJ harness for the EFI and my own harness for the >rest. 100 amp Delco chrome alt) > >Cooling (new 3 core radiator built for V8 CJ) > >Steering (all new ball-joints, crossover steering arms and RH knuckle from >www.offroaddesign.com, tie rods, steering >box and hoses with good used XJ pump) > >On board air (gotta use the old AC compressor somehow till I put in my LPG >EFI! ) > >Fuel tanks (see the LPG stuff) >Battery (new Orbital deep cycle) >Bumpers and nerfs (Scotty's custom killer32 units) > >Springs (5" rear springs from Mcallister spring in BC with shackle flip >brackets from www.offroaddesign.com in CO. >Still good, but flat stock front springs with SOA to match height with the >rear) > >Tires (35" or maybe bigger today) >Lights (6054 ST Silver stars and 100 watt off-road lights to put on my custom >yet-to-be-built roll-bar that will allow for a canopy) >Winch (TBA, but not my Warn 8274 which I sold because it was too big to >fit in) > >Seats (currently original Black leather buckets with custom center console >with CB and video camera playback. Camera mounts above rear view mirror) > >Yet to be done: replace some body parts that are rusty and trim others for >bigger tires. Assemble new motor for install and pull the current 4.0L and >2WD 5 speed. Assemble and install new front and rear axles, Stereo: TBA, > > From: "Frank Donnelly" > <frankdo-at-txucom.net> >Subject: Re: How about something going right? Good news! > >Jesse That is exactly what I try to do and like you it has paid off 100 >times over for me.."Plan your work and work your plan" and good things will >happen. Best advice I have seen on this list in a long long time >with no disrespect intended to anyone. >Frank in Texas - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 14:30:54 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: projects just up and went away... :) I've been eyeing a 1983 Wagoneer Limited for months now... had an offer in, was waiting for the title... funny thing is it disappeared... suppose I could call the guy, but hey, it's a GOOD thing that it disappeared... :) I went down and looked at PJ's '79 Wagoneer last night. It's pretty straight. It's a little rough in a few areas but not beyond rescue. For me I don't need or want another project right now... I was thinking about hers as a way of building up one monster FSJ Wag/J10 using the '83 and this one... But at this point I'm going to get the 280Z fixed and drive it since cooler weather is upon us and wait for my J10 to get finished. The thought of building an FSJ 4dr pickup is still there though... of course I'm also drooling over 300CDs and found a turbo Diesel I could use in SuperDawg for $3k... it'll bolt right up to the AW4 supposedly... tempting... who knows, maybe the guy will trade the TD for the 280Z, he asked for pictures. :) Speaking of pictures, why haven't any of you bought the '50 Merc yet? :) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1855667661 john - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 14:34:11 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: tf727 or ps pump? someone needs a Torqueflite 727, PS pump, weather stripping and probably some tech info down in SoCal... I could bring it down to LA next month if there are any up here... I don't think the guy can afford a rebuild, he only paid $500 for his Wag. :) raul.dianna-at-verizon.net wrote me: >I recently purchased an 84' Grand Wagoneer for $500 bucks. The reverse >gear is out, not sure whats wrong, there is no power steering pump and >looks like previous owner drove some time without it, because there is a >whole lot of thick and dry fluid all over the steering linkage and axle or >pump may have been leaking for a long time before someone removed it. And, >up until yesterday it had a wobbly steering column at the tilt, thanks to >your tech advise on removing the pivot pins and tightening the screws, I >was able to fix it. The wagon is pretty much complete with no rust, just >need to do something with the trans and maybe transfer case too. Oh, by >the way do you know where I can locate the weather strips (wipes) that are >on the outside and inside of the widows? Mine are pretty hard and cracked up. >My hope is to use this FSJ for Jesus, to reach the lost and needy. We live >about two hours from the Mexican border and have been going into Mexico to >do outreaches, but many roads that lead into villages are rough dirt roads >and tough to get through. john - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 15:13:58 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: a call for stories from Ouray... I'm writing an article on Ouray for FSJ magazine and would like to incorporate a number of stories and incidents. Would like to mention the travels of those that came and the challenges they faced. Even if you didn't make it... the stories should be told. :) I'll be writing it in the next week or so, please email your stories and experiences to me directly (I'm in digest or veg mode) at john-at-wagoneers.com If you have a good picture from up high of the entire FSJ picnic or BBQ and are willing to share it, let me know. My high pictures of the picnic were taken before everyone got there. :( I will be assembling the details I gathered at the picnic of who was there, I still don't have all the details... I have the entry # and year/model of the Jeeps and who one what... will assemble that for the list(s) and post it to find out who is who, and if who is willing to let others know who who is. ;) Also, stories of losing the brakes (or a kid), transfer cases flying apart, running down Bambi and narrowly averting death by various other means will make for an interesting documentary on the adventure of a lifetime. :) The stories of woe will include those I hear about mainly... like having the FSJ fail in the driveway, or 100 miles from home... and so on. I've heard bits and pieces, but need details... :) I would really like to include the names and FSJ's of all that made it, if the CFSJA can provide that information, and it's ok to publish. If we can't publish the names, then at least the FSJ's represented and the initials or first name only of those in attendance. This is for the record. :) ttyl, john meister - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 06:30:10 -0400 From: "B. C." Subject: fsj: Check Your Toilet Chain Greetings To The FSJ World! Has your cruise control become annoying while you drive? Does it take forever to acknowledge the fact that you have set a speed when you first turn it on? Once it is set does it accelerate, then let off the throttle, then accelerate again, in a very annoying manner as you go down the road? If these problems sound familiar then I have your fix. It seems that the cable material that was used to link the servo-motor to the throttle linkage was prone to environmental stretching. Garbage Motors knew this about the part, but failed to tell AMC. Gee we have not heard about AMC getting the short end of the deal from one of the big three supplying parts in the past. Just pick your favorite annoying part, and if AMC did not make it, it probably was not a first grade item when AMC received it. Sending seconds to AMC was not uncommon. I digress; this cruise control cable does stretch; but is designed to have this problem compensated. On the end of the cable that connects to the throttle lever on your carburetor, the cable is connected by a toilet chain. If there is any slop in this chain here is your problem. Simply remove the cotter key from the throttle linkage that secures the toilet chain to the linkage. Then carefully partially spread the connector so that you can free the toilet chain out of the eyelet. Measure all of this next to the throttle linkage, and determine how many links you can remove from the chain to remove all of the slop in this chain linkage. Then slide the corresponding chain link through the eyelet, and pinch the link together, and reattach with the cotter key to the throttle linkage. NOTICE I did not tell you to cut off any extra chain links. DO NOT cut any links off of the chain. A couple of links dangling below the linkage will not hurt a thing. Now start the engine and flip that throttle lever several times to test that the carburetor does return to its full rest, stop position when the engine is fully warmed, at low idle. If you have pulled through one to many links in the the chain to remove that slack, the chain may be holding the throttle partially open. If this is the case repeat the above steps, and back out one link from the eyelet. Now you know why we did not cut off the extra links. It is also possible, as the weather changes the cable may shrink, causing your throttle to be held partially open, at which time you may need to back out another link. Now take the truck for a drive, and you will find that your set response time, and surging problems should be fixed. I have said it before, and will say it again. If you are having cruise control problems 95% of all fixes can be found by adjustment, or replacement of the servo-motor, or cable. The other parts of the system just do not have the high failure rate that the servo-motor, and cable have. - -- Until The Next Dimension, Admiral "Coluch." Starfleet Headquarters Ohio Post END TRANSMISSION.................................... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 10:35:36 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: Re: Check Your Toilet Chain - don't forget the hoses... Admiral, An admirable job of writing up this critical issue... There is one other factor, however, that comes into play with the cruise control system. VACUUM. Yeah, I know, it really sucks. But if you have any vacuum leaks at all it'll affect the operation of a multitude of things ranging from smoothness of operation to the wandering of the autopilot. With the AMC boat anchors, excuse me, the AMC V8s, it is HIGHLY recommended for the pilot, or one of his (sometimes paid) designees, to lift the front cover and crawl into the cavern with that heat generating block of high nickel content iron material and simply replace ALL rubber lines associated with vacuum, the carb, emission controls and other things that don't have fluid coursing through their veins. Then, tighten down, in a good pattern of course, all the intake manifold bolts, snug up the carb base bolts and of course tighten all the exhaust manifold bolts. This annual service activity will make life with your FSJ much more pleasant and prevent YOU from having your FSJ dismantled in oh so many pieces for over a year while you try to upgrade to a newer AMC motor that uses fuel squirters, er, injection... So, besides keeping your toilet chain tight, also keep your hoses new and thou shalt live long and prosper... Oh, you'll also see an improvement in fuel economy... especially if you use all synthethics, and an Edelbrock Performer manifold and 1406... ;) john At 06:30 AM 9/5/2002 -0400, B. C. wrote: >Greetings To The FSJ World! > >Has your cruise control become annoying while you drive? Does it take >forever to acknowledge the fact that you have set a speed when you first >turn it on? Once it is set does it accelerate, then let off the throttle, >then accelerate again, in a very annoying manner as you go down the >road? If these problems sound familiar then I have your fix. > >It seems that the cable material that was used to link the servo-motor to >the throttle linkage was prone to environmental stretching. Garbage >Motors knew this about the part, but failed to tell AMC. Gee we have not >heard about AMC getting the short end of the deal from one of the big >three supplying parts in the past. Just pick your favorite >annoying part, and if AMC did not make it, it probably was not a first >grade item when AMC received it. Sending seconds to AMC was not uncommon. > >I digress; this cruise control cable does stretch; but is designed to have >this problem compensated. On the end of the cable that connects to the >throttle lever on your carburetor, the cable is connected by a toilet >chain. If there is any slop in this chain here is your problem. Simply >remove the cotter key from the throttle linkage that secures the toilet >chain to the linkage. Then carefully partially spread the connector so >that you can free the toilet chain out of the eyelet. Measure all of this >next to the throttle linkage, and determine how many links you can remove >from the chain to remove all of the slop in this chain linkage. Then >slide the corresponding chain link through the eyelet, and pinch the link >together, and reattach with the cotter key to the throttle >linkage. NOTICE I did not tell you to cut off any extra chain links. DO >NOT cut any links off of the chain. A couple of links dangling below the >linkage will not hurt a thing. Now start the engine and flip that >throttle lever several times to test that the carburetor does return to >its full rest, stop position when the engine is fully warmed, at low >idle. If you have pulled through one to many links in the the chain to >remove that slack, the chain may be holding the throttle partially >open. If this is the case repeat the above steps, and back out one link >from the eyelet. Now you know why we did not cut off the extra links. It >is also possible, as the weather changes the cable may shrink, causing >your throttle to be held partially open, at which time you may need to >back out another link. > >Now take the truck for a drive, and you will find that your set response >time, and surging problems should be fixed. > >I have said it before, and will say it again. If you are having cruise >control problems 95% of all fixes can be found by adjustment, or >replacement of the servo-motor, or cable. The other parts of the system >just do not have the high failure rate that the servo-motor, and cable have. > > >-- >Until The Next Dimension, >Admiral "Coluch." >Starfleet Headquarters >Ohio Post >END TRANSMISSION.................................... - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1740 **************************