From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Fri Feb 7 07:10:19 2003 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Friday, February 7 2003 Volume 01 : Number 1855 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: RE: fsj: '85 GW electrical problem - seem like a power surge - el ectric shop referral fsj: Qtrac differentials Re: fsj: Q upper half of main rear oil seal Re: fsj: Qtrac differentials fsj: 2" lift ? Re: fsj: 2" lift ? fsj: RE: 2" lift ? Re: fsj: 2" lift ? Re: fsj: 2" lift ? fsj: charging problem fsj: RE: charging problem RE: fsj: 2" lift ? RE: fsj: Q upper half of main rear oil seal Re: fsj: steering wheel parts Re: fsj: steering wheel parts Re: fsj: Cruise Control fsj: beware of the NoDaks! fsj: More FSJ activity in Snohomish... Golden Eagle takes wings... fsj: Air pump fsj: air pump fsj: Badass Tires! Re: fsj: Re: Adjusting bands on the 727 FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 14:06:29 -0600 From: "Keith, Michael S" Subject: RE: fsj: '85 GW electrical problem - seem like a power surge - el ectric shop referral Here's the info on the shop I used for this particular job. Be's Auto Electric 2726 Southmore Ave Pasadena, TX 77502 (713) 475-1999 I usually use this shop: Ray's Electric 5823 Edgemoor Houston, TX 77081 (713) 661-8189 However, they're near my work (read far from my house), & I was trying to get this job finished on Saturday. Be's did a good job, but I've used Ray's for a number of years. I know them better. Also, I ran a quick search on switchboard.com for "Auto Electric Repair" in Austin, & I got 31 hits. I would think someone here could refer you to a good electric shop in Austin. If not, I could get a referral from the Alfa Digest. Alfas have a lot of electrical issues; so most Alfa owners know of a good electric shop in their area. Good luck, Michael Keith Houston, TX - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 15:21:53 -0700 From: Tesar Landon-r16884 Subject: RE: fsj: '85 GW electrical problem - seem like a power s urge Hey, Keith, what's the name of that shop? I'm not happy with the performance of my alternator, I'll go to Houston to get it fixed... - - - Landon '89 GW Austin ================ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 14:03:12 -0700 From: "Tacoma White" Subject: fsj: Qtrac differentials anyone ever find a source other than junkyards??? I'd rather buy a new diff than an adapter for the 205 for now. My guess is prices will be similar though...=) - --tacoma 78 Cherokee Chief 67 M725 99 Cherokee Sport ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 13:20:09 -0800 From: "Machinedoc" Subject: Re: fsj: Q upper half of main rear oil seal I forgot to mention that yes it can be done without removing the flexplate or trans etc. When I did mine all I did was remove the pan, remove the rear main cap, loosened the rest of the main caps and pulled the seal. While I was in there I checked the main bearings before retightening the caps with a torque wrench. Relatively easy compared to most engines. Curtis Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 15:01:11 -0800 From: "Machinedoc" Subject: Re: fsj: Q upper half of main rear oil seal Hi Guy's, Yes this is pretty simple to do. A small punch tapped on one end (on the wire) on the seal until you can get a grip on the other end with pliers then just pull it through. It works easiest if you loosen the main nearing caps a little first. Be sure to not damage the crank. I did this repair on my 86 GW without having to jack it up. Be careful to keep things clean while the pan is off. I paid $18 for that stupid seal, but with close to 200,000 miles it needed it real bad. That was about two years ago. Good luck, Curtis Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2003 12:38:15 -0800 (PST) From: Greg Loxtercamp Subject: Re: fsj: Q upper half of main rear oil seal Hey, can you do this stuff with the flexplate / flywheel / torque converter / tranny connected? Just curious... Greg ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 13:32:07 -0800 (PST) From: Greg Loxtercamp Subject: Re: fsj: Qtrac differentials I've got a barely used MileMarker 4x2 conversion kit for the BorgWarner QT TC. 1:1 ratio with front hubs. Original package and all original parts...complete! $225. I also have a low range for the same TC. with under the seat shift handle. $75 Both for $250. Greg - --- Tacoma White wrote: > anyone ever find a source other than junkyards??? I'd rather buy a > new diff > than an adapter for the 205 for now. My guess is prices will be > similar > though...=) > > --tacoma > 78 Cherokee Chief > 67 M725 > 99 Cherokee Sport Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 19:44:15 EST From: HouTexFrk-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: 2" lift ? Looking for a 2" lift for a 85 GW. Seems to me no one makes one? Curious if anyone here would know of a manufacture that makes a 2" lift that replaces the old springs on all corners. Thanks, Swaganater ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 16:49:20 -0800 From: Kevin Pekarek Subject: Re: fsj: 2" lift ? On Thu, Feb 06, 2003 at 07:44:15PM -0500, HouTexFrk-at-aol.com wrote: > Looking for a 2" lift for a 85 GW. Seems to me no one makes one? Curious if > anyone here would know of a manufacture that makes a 2" lift that replaces > the old springs on all corners. Thanks, Swaganater That's about as high as I'm gonna go on the 74 cherokee when I finally get around to replacing the springs. Prolly gonna have alcan make up a custom set. K - -- Kevin Pekarek Redwood City, CA (near San Francisco) and Los Osos, CA (near San Luis Obispo) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 16:46:11 -0800 From: "Faith Jeff" Subject: fsj: RE: 2" lift ? try your local yellow pages for a local spring shop... they'll make em however you want them. i wish i'd known of my local place here before i paid to ship customs from colorado to california for my 63 wag! i went there for help with a shackle, and they said they'd have beet alcan's price by about 50 bucks a spring (o hundred with shipping!) - -jeff - -----Original Message----- From: HouTexFrk-at-aol.com [mailto:HouTexFrk-at-aol.com] Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 4:44 PM To: fsj-at-digest.net Subject: fsj: 2" lift ? Looking for a 2" lift for a 85 GW. Seems to me no one makes one? Curious if anyone here would know of a manufacture that makes a 2" lift that replaces the old springs on all corners. Thanks, Swaganater This electronic message transmission, including any attachments, contains information from Prescription Solutions which may be confidential or privileged. The information is intended to be for the use of the individual or entity named above. If you are not the intended recipient, be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of the contents of this information is prohibited. If you have received this electronic transmission in error, please notify the sender immediately by a "reply to sender only" message and destroy all electronic and hard copies of the communication, including attachments. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 16:51:07 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: fsj: 2" lift ? add-a-leafs are the easiest and most affordable solution... done it several times... not a problem. even used ones from a different vehicle! 2.5" spring width... buy one for a chevy... make sure your u-bolts are good, torqued down, better... replace 'em. In the rear you can go with 1.5" and a small block, not ideal, but might be a better ride... no blocks in front... try to get the full leaf length type add-a-leafs, not the short ones... john At 07:44 PM 2/6/2003 -0500, HouTexFrk-at-aol.com wrote: >Looking for a 2" lift for a 85 GW. Seems to me no one makes one? Curious if >anyone here would know of a manufacture that makes a 2" lift that replaces >the old springs on all corners. Thanks, Swaganater - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 17:06:30 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: fsj: 2" lift ? At 07:54 PM 2/6/2003 -0500, HouTexFrk-at-aol.com wrote: >I have heard and read bad things about add a leafs. I really want new all >around at the most affordable way, The swag new springs will run close to $750. the problem with add-a-leafs is if they're short and your stock springs are weak, and you abuse your rig... theoretically could break the main spring... that's why the longer add-a-leaf's are fine... but the ride will be a bit harsher. I combine add-a-leafs' with less sagging stock springs and build my own lift, that's how superdawg is lifted, acceptable ride even... :) got 2" or more easy just playing with spring packs and used add-a-leafs. :) and maybe a block in the back, can't remember now, haven't seen my truck for almost two years now... waiting for it to be reassembled. ;) john - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 20:10:31 EST From: HouTexFrk-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: charging problem I have so many questions about my newly acquired 85 GW. I was wondering if anyone has had a alternater/ammeter problem. when I turn on the lights the ammeter flickers like a drunks hand in need on liquor I was wondering if anyone has seen this problem and had and information. It also flickers when I turn a blinker on and with the heater going. Oh and it only does it at idle. Thanks for you time. The swaganator ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 20:21:18 -0500 From: James Isennock Subject: fsj: RE: charging problem Most likely the Ammeter is reflecting the fact that at low RPM's (idle) your alternator can't keep up with the electrical demand. As long as it steadies out at higher RPM and generally shows a positive number it shouldn't be a cause for concern. However, keep it in mind if you let you vehicle idle in a high load state (lights and heater on for example) for an extended period it could run down your battery. Enjoy, Jay Isennock - -----Original Message----- From: HouTexFrk-at-aol.com [mailto:HouTexFrk-at-aol.com] Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 8:11 PM To: fsj-digest-at-digest.net Subject: fsj: charging problem I have so many questions about my newly acquired 85 GW. I was wondering if anyone has had a alternater/ammeter problem. when I turn on the lights the ammeter flickers like a drunks hand in need on liquor I was wondering if anyone has seen this problem and had and information. It also flickers when I turn a blinker on and with the heater going. Oh and it only does it at idle. Thanks for you time. The swaganator ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 20:29:12 -0500 From: James Isennock Subject: RE: fsj: 2" lift ? Check out ESPO.com. They mainly sell stock replacement springs and suspension components however, I think they can also supply 2" lift springs for your Jeep. I have a 4" 4 spring (no blocks) lift on order now from bjsoffroad.com. Cost is around $500.00 including shocks plus shipping. They also sell cheaper kits with blocks for the rear as well as add a leaf kits. Please tell 'em I sent you. Jay Isennock - -----Original Message----- From: john [mailto:john-at-wagoneers.com] Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 8:07 PM To: HouTexFrk-at-aol.com Cc: fsj-at-digest.net Subject: Re: fsj: 2" lift ? At 07:54 PM 2/6/2003 -0500, HouTexFrk-at-aol.com wrote: >I have heard and read bad things about add a leafs. I really want new all >around at the most affordable way, The swag new springs will run close to $750. the problem with add-a-leafs is if they're short and your stock springs are weak, and you abuse your rig... theoretically could break the main spring... that's why the longer add-a-leaf's are fine... but the ride will be a bit harsher. I combine add-a-leafs' with less sagging stock springs and build my own lift, that's how superdawg is lifted, acceptable ride even... :) got 2" or more easy just playing with spring packs and used add-a-leafs. :) and maybe a block in the back, can't remember now, haven't seen my truck for almost two years now... waiting for it to be reassembled. ;) john - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 20:24:32 -0800 From: "Jim B" Subject: RE: fsj: Q upper half of main rear oil seal A: When I re-did the rear seal on the Mighty Elmo ('83 Cherokee I put a high mileage Mexican 282 cu in 6 cyl into) it took a day, lying on my back (1/2 of New Year's eve, and 1/2 of New Year's day Y2K) I had replaced it when I put the motor in (it was easier on my engine stand!) and I did it again and started cursing because it leaked again. Turned out, my second replace was for nought! The oil pressure sending unit blew off and replacement of that stopped my leak! (The oil ran right along the edge of the bellhousing where it was sprayed at. Not any amount on the block itself!) PS: I think you meant 5,000 RPM! My 6 cyl regularly saw 4500 RPM up shifts while pulling my 5 ton trailer up long hills! (I started out in low range, then upshifted before I hit 20 mph with my NP208. It took a couple tries to figure out the timing pattern to get no grinding) From: James Isennock Subject: RE: fsj: Q upper half of main rear oil seal Both rod and main bearings should be less than $100.00. If you only do one set, do the rods as they rotate twice as fast as the mains. Take a look at the bearing shell from the rear main cap you pulled. You can tell what sort of shape its in just by looking. If you see obvious grooves or scratches or an area where the inner copper material is exposed its time to replace. The most professional way to do the job involves removing the crankshaft and having the bearing surfaces checked and in most cases machined to the next standard undersize typically .010 under. Then new bearings corresponding to the undersize amount are installed. Another option is to use plastic-gauge available in better auto parts stores. This is thin plastic that is laid on the crank journal surface then the cap is replaced and torqued to spec. The plastic squishes out when the cap is torqued down. Then you remove the cap and measure how far out the plastic-gauge squished. This gives a good idea how much wear has occurred. Then you can purchase the correct undersize bearings. The way I originally mentioned is to just replace the bearings with new ones of the same size (or undersize if the crank has been previously ground down) I am sure that some will complain that not measuring and grinding the crank is sacrilege. They will say that the proper way involves the crank removal/grinding explained above Blah blah blah. I say that if the bearing is worn and you just put in a new one your better off then having done nothing at all. Also you can do it "my" way in less than a day and the only cost is the bearings as opposed to the hassle of removing your crank and hauling off to the machine shop and waiting who knows how long for machine work and then hoping that the machinist wasn't hung over and having a bad day when he grinds on your crankshaft. Sure, The best way is to machine the crank but your working on a low compression low RPM Jeep motor. If you had a race car that was spun to 8500 RPM it would be different but the Jeep motor probably never even sees 3000 RPM and it will live forever if your just replace the bearings every 50K miles or so. I have done a stock size bearing swap on two different motors so far and have been pleased with the improvements in oil pressure and the certain knowledge that I have done something relatively low cost that will pay off in increased longevity for my motor. Jay Isennock ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 20:15:30 -0800 From: "Jim B" Subject: Re: fsj: steering wheel parts A: As already mentioned, Chev parts from full size cars and amny midsize also work (including whole columns. AMC Matador from '79 and maybe older are a bolt in replacement) From: Dan Black Subject: fsj: steering wheel parts Need replacement parts for a '74 Wagoneer steering wheel (automatic on the column, tilt, of course). I need the spring and C-clip that go in there. I can look up the factory manual names for them if needed. Anybody know where I can buy them, or have used ones? Local junkyard does not have any steering columns for FSJs between '73 and '85. I also need a new turn signal switch. That's the plastic round piece. Actually, it's a two-piece plastic thing; the top half I found easily in the Help! stuff at the local parts place; they call it the "turn signal cam". The factory manual never shows or mentions them apart; it calls the bottom and top pieces together as the "turn signal switch". Napa apparently has the bottom half as the "turn signal canceling cam" or something like that, but it's $60 or $70. I was hoping to get one cheaper. However, sounds like you want to buy one new, because a used one will just wear out again that much sooner. (On mine, the plastic pieces that the springs clip onto are broken pretty badly. They're already rigged to sort-of work, but I want a new one to get it working completely correctly again and to make sure it stays fixed.) - - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - ----- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 20:32:04 -0800 From: "Jim B" Subject: Re: fsj: steering wheel parts A: Just the '80-ish Chev van I stuck a 232 and Torque Command from a '75 Pacer into! (well, the owner said he wanted something more powerful and reliable than his Chev 350, with better gas mileage and he wanted it cheap! I'd say he got his $500 worth since he still uses it 10 years later!) From: Kevin Pekarek (ever see a GM column that says "torque command"?), ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2003 20:27:33 -0800 From: "Jim B" Subject: Re: fsj: Cruise Control A: It's possible the sensor burned out and was on it's last legs, but more likely you bumped one of the vacuum hoses off! From: "Frazier Phillips" My cruise control on my 86 GW quit working. It will not engage. The only thing I remember doing recently was to remove the speedometer cable, cleaned it and lubricated it with speedometer lubrication. I am assuming this cable ends in the speed sensor. Would removing this cable and putting it back in be a waste of my time? The speedometer is working properly. Shorty ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 21:03:43 -0800 From: john Subject: fsj: beware of the NoDaks! not everything from this source is acceptable... but since I've sided with the South Dakotans I agree that something must be done about those crazy NoDaks! North Dakota Found To Be Harboring Nuclear Missiles http://www.theonion.com/onion3904/north_dakota.html :) john (be aware that much info from theonion.com is NOT fit for sharing... :) - ----------------------------- Oh well, I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess -Red Green - ------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- If you're thinking about Lasik, you have to check out this place: http://www.restorevisioncenters.com/ My vision went from over 20/200 to 20/15 or better! Tell 'em john at wagoneers.com sent you. :) - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2003 23:57:43 -0800 From: john Subject: fsj: More FSJ activity in Snohomish... Golden Eagle takes wings... my son is joining the air force... I think he's going to keep his '83 Ford Ranger Diesel, but his '79 Cherokee Golden Eagle (WT) is going away... Will sell the Golden Eagle with the stock tires for $900, runs fine, will sell the 35x12.5's on alloy 6 lugs for $500 The hood was damaged and will be replaced with a good one from the '77. The factory brushguard as seen on some pictures is NOT included. (he bolted it on when I wasn't looking. ;) The '79 has a 304, TH400 and QT... it runs well and has survived a few trips into the mountains... :) Not sure how long before he ships out... just starting the process, but he'll be down in San Antonio for basic training... john - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 07:23:49 EST From: HouTexFrk-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: Air pump I am about to install a new performer intake, carb and headers. The main reason I am doing this is to improve gas mileage and power. The only thing i am really sketchy about is the air pump. i have done a little reading and the only really sense i can make out is that it forces air into the exhaust system to lower gases. when i take out all the emission crap (canister, egr, air pump) is that going to effect all my vacuum actuated controls i.e. 4x4 switch, heater controls, vacuum advance on distributor? I really would appreciate some info. Thanks the Swaganator ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 07:24:45 EST From: HouTexFrk-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: air pump I am about to install a new performer intake, carb and headers. The main reason I am doing this is to improve gas mileage and power. The only thing i am really sketchy about is the air pump. i have done a little reading and the only really sense i can make out is that it forces air into the exhaust system to lower gases. when i take out all the emission crap (canister, egr, air pump) is that going to effect all my vacuum actuated controls i.e. 4x4 switch, heater controls, vacuum advance on distributor? I really would appreciate some info. Thanks the Swaganator ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 08:34:53 -0500 From: "George Milam" Subject: fsj: Badass Tires! Wednesday I bought a set of Goodyear Wrangler MTR's and put em on the '89 GW. These are some beautiful Mud Tires. I am happy to say that these tires are great for the daily driver as well. They are pretty low noise and are doing great in the snow/ice/slushy conditions here in Vermont. I haven't been on any trails with them yet, but they got great off-road reviews. Does anybody else run these on their FSJ? Have they seen any trail action? George Milam '89 GW "MOOSE" VT ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2003 14:02:13 GMT From: Ken Gaines Subject: Re: fsj: Re: Adjusting bands on the 727 The TF727 is a great tranny and as you have already figured out, it needs the kickdown/throttle pressure linkage... Well, if the linkage is crap (doesn't work anymore) there are two ways that CJ guys get around this: 1.) Get a Lokar kickdown cable kit. It is stainless steel and teflon. Adjustment and installation are a snap...much easier than the OEM linkage and it actually works! 2.) Find a throttle cable from an old Pontiac Fiero to use as a kickdown cable. You will have to fab up some brackets for the manifold and rear tranny adapter. This should work as well as the Lokar cable kit. The OEM linkage will not work in a CJ because it binds on the frame-mounted brake proportioning valve...I found that out the hard way. Good luck, O)||||||(O Ken "Life is a journey that's measured not in miles or years, but in experiences" - -Jimmy Buffett "A Pirate Looks at Fifty" 1998 ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1855 **************************