From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Wed Feb 12 17:08:48 2003 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Thursday, February 13 2003 Volume 01 : Number 1859 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: new timing cover Q fsj: Ammeter/timing marks Re: fsj: Ammeter/timing marks RE: fsj: Ammeter/timing marks fsj: lug pattern Re: fsj: Q: main bearings Re: fsj: Help! hood cable broke fsj: Re: Cruise Control Re: fsj: vacuum fsj: listers in detroit? fsj: air intake FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 11:51:58 -0700 From: "Tacoma White" Subject: fsj: new timing cover Q howdy all. does anyone know if the new repro timing covers are kink-free now? I was reading somewhere ('somewhere it is written' hehe) that some of them had some screwy tolerances and whatnot. Before I maybe spend a bunch of money on a nice, fresh timing cover I'd like to hear any experience with them so anyone know? =) - --Tacoma only 1 driveable Jeep right now =( ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 11:46:28 -0700 From: Tesar Landon-r16884 Subject: fsj: Ammeter/timing marks That's a good kind of pain! One thing at a time. We had a long discussion about the terminals on the back of the ammeter and whether, if corroded they acted like a resistor, or a semiconductor. (Yours sounds like a semiconductor) I don't think we came to a conclusion except to say that corrosion on the back of the ammeter is a real and common problem, and should be checked/cleaned/bypassed. Also, the voltage regulator could be playing tricks - did you just replace that one? The timing marks are visible right around the upper left 'hinge' of the alternator bracket. shouldn't require any fan shroud touching. Please check/replace all vacuum hoses and pcv before getting excited about accurate timing. You'd be surprised how many will break while you're checking them from being so brittle. - - Landon '89 GW Austin. ================ Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 15:54:19 EST From: HouTexFrk-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: timing I still have this alternator problem. I was wondering if my Wag is not timed right (idles kinda rough) when it idles the ammeter jumps around with a heavy load (lights and heater are on) . I have pretty much trouble shot every thing else I am down to replacing the alternator and timing it. I have never timed this rig. Do I have to take the fan shroud off to get the timing light to the marker? This rig is a real pain in my arse but i think it's worth it. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 14:01:21 EST From: HouTexFrk-at-aol.com Subject: Re: fsj: Ammeter/timing marks I was reading this e-mail you sent and my girlfriend walked up behind me and asked "What are these guys like some kinda Jeep geniuses" Haha. Thanks a lot for all the helpful information. I am about to install the edlebrock performer intake p/n 2131 and the performer carb p/n 1406. To answer your question about the voltage regulator no I haven't replaced that yet. I have not as far looked at even if it is built in the alternator or if it is on the fender. I think that is were I am going to start if it is a vacuum leak I am just going to leave it alone till this weekend. I think I am going to install the intake and carb. As to your information on the corrosion on the back of the ammeter. Are you talking about on the back of the actual gauge inside the vehicle? Thanks again 85 GW ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 12:16:26 -0700 From: Tesar Landon-r16884 Subject: RE: fsj: Ammeter/timing marks Your carb and intake install will help dramatically with the vacuum issues. There was another recent post from Houston, a guy had the voltage regulator replaced by a local shop for $15. It is inside the alternator. Yes, the actual guage inside the vehicle, has a tendency to build up corrosion, and hunt for other places to send the current, such as, oh, a dash panel. It is a more or less direct lead from the alternator, and Jeep-b-que results. Since we take our bbq seriously here in TX, I know this is not acceptable. My '89 has a voltmeter, so I am taking from list discussions. Good luck with your carb/intake replacement, pls let us know the results. - - L - -----Original Message----- From: HouTexFrk-at-aol.com [mailto:HouTexFrk-at-aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 1:01 PM To: Tesar Landon-r16884; fsj-at-digest.net Subject: Re: fsj: Ammeter/timing marks I was reading this e-mail you sent and my girlfriend walked up behind me and asked "What are these guys like some kinda Jeep geniuses" Haha. Thanks a lot for all the helpful information. I am about to install the edlebrock performer intake p/n 2131 and the performer carb p/n 1406. To answer your question about the voltage regulator no I haven't replaced that yet. I have not as far looked at even if it is built in the alternator or if it is on the fender. I think that is were I am going to start if it is a vacuum leak I am just going to leave it alone till this weekend. I think I am going to install the intake and carb. As to your information on the corrosion on the back of the ammeter. Are you talking about on the back of the actual gauge inside the vehicle? Thanks again 85 GW ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 14:17:09 EST From: HouTexFrk-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: lug pattern yet another question for the gods. I know i have a 6 lug spread on my wag but this company is asking for 6x6.5 or 6x5.5 or something liek that. Does anyone know the correct lug pattern ? Thanks ------------------------------ Date: 11 Feb 2003 12:27:59 -0800 From: "Jim B" Subject: Re: fsj: Q: main bearings Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 12:27:58 -0800 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed A: I use a screwdriver (on the side opposite the lock tab) and tap it to start it, then, like they say in the book, stick a bent over cotterpin in the oil hole in the crank, and turn the motor by hand (or with a wrench on the bolt in the crank pulley or screwdriver on the teeth of the flywheel), and the pin pushes the bearing around till it falls out From: "Faith Jeff" hi everybody- Q: how do i get the upper half of a main bearing out and a new one back in? one of my books says to make a tool out of a cotter pin and insert it in the oil hold in the crankshaft journal. ...does the split-end of the cotter-pin simply rotate with the crank to push the bearing out or back in? won't this scratch the bearing saddle or crankshaft journal? thanks, jeff _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: 11 Feb 2003 12:31:24 -0800 From: "Jim B" Subject: Re: fsj: Help! hood cable broke Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 12:31:23 -0800 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed A: Long screwdriver through the gap between hood and grill against the lever under the hood (check under another hood to see what it is) From: this space for rent My hood cable broke on my '88 Wagoneer. Does anyone have a suggestion for opening the hood? Thanks Charles '88 Grand Wagoneer "Raindog" _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 21:32:32 -0600 From: "Vince Orr" Subject: fsj: Re: Cruise Control My cruise control didn't work when I got my waggie. Under the drivers side dash, there is a three prong relay that, if disconnected, renders your cruise control inoperative. Mine fell off and was rolling around on the floor when I first discovered it. It is held on with a zip tie now...... ;) Otherwise, you may want to trace the tinie wienie wires that route down through the column and verify that the problem is not in the cab. I think there is also a fuse for the cruise control in the fuse box under the dash. - --Vince '81 Wagoneer '99 TJ (new BFG AT's) From: "Frazier Phillips" My cruise control on my 86 GW quit working. It will not engage. The only thing I remember doing recently was to remove the speedometer cable, cleaned it and lubricated it with speedometer lubrication. I am assuming this cable ends in the speed sensor. Would removing this cable and putting it back in be a waste of my time? The speedometer is working properly. Shorty ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 22:08:23 -0600 From: "Vince Orr" Subject: Re: fsj: vacuum There is a vacuum cannister, looks like a round ball, bolted to the middle of the firewall that supplies vacuum to various accessories. It is supplied by engine vacuum (intake manifold I think). A tube goes through the firewall and if you take your heater control apart inside the cab you will notice tubes that switch the vacuum from heater to defrost, etc.... Pretty nifty really. - --Vince - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Loxtercamp" To: ; Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 8:20 PM Subject: Re: fsj: vacuum > where does vacuum come from? Ahhh... from the intake manifold, under the carborator. Simply, when the pistons go down in the gas intake stroke (#1 of the 4 strokes), they are pulling air through the carb, through the manifold and into the piston. If the throttle is closed (or partially closed), the throttle butterfly obstructs some of the air and a low pressure area is formed in the intake manifold. The low pressure area is vacuum. There are differing degrees of vacuum. Wide open throttle -at- low RPM(little resistance through the butterflies) being the lowest vacuum. High RPM engine, with the throttle closed (as when coasting going down hill, or engine braking) being the most vacuum. Idle and normal driving are somewhere in the middle. Vacuum lines originate from the intake manifold. At least unregulated vacuum sources. (is that manifold vacuum?) Regulated vacuum comes from somewhere else. Being an EE I would say that the vacuum canister (acting as a capicitor) with a small tube (acting as a resistor) sourced at the intake manifold would provide an RC timeconstant on the vacuum level. (is this ported vacuum?) Or does the carb do something to regulate the vacuum? I guess a one way valve would help, too... There are uses for each. The cruise, heat flapper controls (on non-cable driven flappers), TC switches and other things requiring more or less full time vacuum use the regulated vacuum. Timing advance uses unregulated vacuum. This is just a brief intro into vacuum. Anyone care to elaborate? Greg fsj-less in MN. . Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 10:41:08 -0800 From: john Subject: fsj: listers in detroit? Anyone in the Detroit area? Have a friend moving back there and is looking for local info... email me off-list and I'll give you his email address... thanx, john ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 18:33:56 EST From: HouTexFrk-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: air intake anyone know a company or person that makes a cold air induction system for a 85 GW ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1859 **************************