From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Mon Mar 31 13:58:58 2003 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Monday, March 31 2003 Volume 01 : Number 1896 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: fsj: Re: Hi john fsj: Re: WJ 4.7L info - and other HP/torque info :) fsj: Re: 32 mpg fsj: Re: xj: Carburetor question - WEBER is the BEST! fsj: FSJ decals fsj: brush guard & rear can/carrier fsj: tie rod hole reamer wanted. FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 11:07:54 -0800 From: "Jim B" Subject: Re: fsj: Re: Hi john A: You should note that you don't drive the vehicle hard with the other shaft out! And speaking of front wheel drive Jeeps, that's how I'm driving the '76 J10 around till I empty the tank enough to swap out the gas tank. (when I swapped in the '84 rear axle, the driveshaft has to pass through where the front corner of the '76 gas tank now is. I'm putting the '84's gas tank in later) I was going to drive the truck to work today, but I can't find the tie rod hole reamer so I can hook up the larger Jeep tierod end in place of the 1/2 ton Chev one on the RH knuckle we swapped in. From: john Subject: fsj: Re: Hi john At 11:10 AM 3/28/2003 +0100, DE WAVRECHIN Arnaud wrote: >I own a ZJ 95 4.0L Quadratrac (fulltime 4x4) and I have to repair my >front-transmission (CV-Joint) >Do you know if it is possible to temporary drive without the front >transmission the time to repair it ? We're talking about the front driveshaft that goes from the transmission/transfer case to the front axle, correct? If you're talking about that they you should be able to do this: 1) remove the front driveshaft (CV joint at transfer case, u-joint at front axle) 2) engage emergency drive or 4 hi-lock and then drive it. It should not hurt anything. I've done this on older Jeeps before without problems. It'll also work if the rear driveshaft is broken. By locking the transfer case and removing the rear driveshaft you have a front wheel drive Jeep. :) >Can any dammage occure to my Transfert case, Automatic transmission, >torque converter, lockup converter, or anything like that ? Not if you keep the transfer case locked into "emergency drive" or 4 high "lock". Not sure how it's labeled on yours. The idea is to lock the output of the transfer case so the there is no slippage, both front and rear outputs of the transfer case will be putting out the same. You do not want to drive it like this with the front driveshaft in place though, only when it's out, or you are in very slippery conditions. :) >Best regards from a French jeeper. If you won't hold me being an American against me, I won't hold being French against you. :) After all, we're all Jeepers. ;) Where are you in France? I lived over in Germany from 1975 until 1981. Visited Paris in 1976 and Southern France in 1977. Beautiful country. I used to work for Boeing. I would like to work for Boeing again some day. :) I'd like to work for anybody again some day... ;) Lost my job in January. john snohomish, washington usa where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... :) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 11:10:52 -0800 From: john Subject: fsj: Re: WJ 4.7L info - and other HP/torque info :) At 10:06 AM 3/29/2003 -0800, Jim B wrote: >I had someone try to tell me that the torque rating on the 4.7L was higher >than a 401 yesterday! Before calling him an absolute liar, I decided to >check and see first. (I'll get back to him about it if it's not true ) >Jim Blair, Seattle, WA '84 J10 Black Jack, '86 Comanche 4x4 Jim, ans: 99 - WJ 4.7L - 286 cu in. - 235 hp -at- 4,800 - 295 ft lbs -at- 3,200 <-- WJ 78 - SJ 6.5L - 401 cu in. - 215 hp -at- 4,400 - 320 ft lbs -at- 2,800 <-- SJ (other specs below) Looks like the 401 is the torque winner... but having driven both motors I'd take the 4.7L over the 401 any day, any time, any place. sorry. ;) This is an area of interest to me as I've looked at a suitable transplant for SuperDawg ('83 J10 Stepside). I love Diesels and include those specs for comparison. I can tell you flat out that a '99 WJ with a 4.7L in stock trim will blow the doors off of anything but a modified 401 in an FSJ. Sorry buddy, been in both, in stock trim the 360/401 are not rocket ships. Of course the FSJ outweighs the WJ by around 1,500lbs and is less aerodynamic. I can gather the 0 to 60 specs for comparison if you'd like, but the 4.7L V8 in the WJ is one of the finest V8's I've ever owned or driven. It's silky smooth from idle to redline. It is an amazing motor and if I had the money SuperDawg would probably have a 4.7L instead of a 4.0L. But for economy the 4.0L is an excellent compromise and the best choice. Owners of WJ's with 4.0L's report about 2 mpg more economy. The 4.0L is a long-lived I-6 with excellent torque. I've personally owned three that have had over 200k on the original motor. Other then the rear main seal and a bit of blowby they're excellent motors, I personally feel that the AMC 4.0L is the best motor ever put in a Jeep. The AMC V8's are torque monsters no doubt, but they are, imo, heavy, inefficient, leak vacuum and oil unless meticulously cared for and have a few weak points. Compared to other V8s they just seem outdated to me. The 4.7L V8 would be an awesome candidate for a swap into an FSJ, but you'll have to do a lot of rewiring to get all the computers on board. Not for the gearhead who likes points, carbs and fiddling with internals. I've only got about 70k on this 4.7L so it's hard to say if they'll be as durable in the long run as an AMC V8. I have to sell mine so I'll have to pick up the longevity test when I pick up another one, right after I get another full time job... ;) ENGINE Specs year - engine - HP -at- rpm - torque -at- rpm - -------------------------------------- 83 - J10 4.2L - 115 hp -at- 3,200 - 210 ft lbs -at- 1,800 <-- original 97 - ZJ 4.0L - 185 hp -at- 4,600 - 220 ft lbs -at- 2,400 <-- superdawg transplant 99 - WJ 4.7L - 235 hp -at- 4,800 - 295 ft lbs -at- 3,200 <-- WJ 99 - WJ 4.0L - 195 hp -at- 4,600 - 230 ft lbs -at- 3,000 83 - J10 360V8 - 129 hp -at- 3,700 - 245 ft lbs -at- 1,600 <-- Old Blue 88 - XJ 4.0L - 177 hp -at- 4,500 - 224 ft lbs -at- 2,500 <-- little wagoneer 91 - XJ 4.0L - 190 hp -at- 4,750 - 225 ft lbs -at- 4,000 97 - ZJ 5.2L - 220 hp -at- 4,400 - 300 ft lbs -at- 3,200 78 - SJ 401V8 - 215 hp -at- 4,400 - 320 ft lbs -at- 2,800 <-- 401 V8 88 - GM 6.2L Dsl- 130 hp -at- 3,600 - 240 ft lbs -at- 2,000 GAS V8s 88 - GM 350V8-FI- 210 hp -at- 4,000 - 300 ft lbs -at- 2,800 89 - Ford 302-FI- 185 hp -at- 3,400 - 270 ft lbs -at- 2,400 Mercedes Diesels - -------------------------------- 85 - 190D 2.2L - 72 hp -at- 4,200 - 96 ft lbs -at- 2,800 (normally aspirated) <-- ludwig 83 - 240D 2.4L - 72 hp -at- 4,400 - 97 ft lbs -at- 2,400 (normally aspirated) 87 - 190D 2.5L - 123 hp -at- 4,600 - 168 ft lbs -at- 2,400 (TURBO) 81 - 300D 3.0L - 88 hp -at- 4,400 - 126.6 ft lbs -at- 2,400 (normally aspirated) <-- fritz 83 - 300SD 3.0L - 125 hp -at- 4,350 - 170 ft lbs -at- 2,400 (TURBO) - --------------------------------------------- 2.2L = 134.2522 cubic inches 2.4L = 146.457 cubic inches 3.0L = 183.0712 cubic inches 4.7L = 286.8116 cubic inches 4.0L = 244.095 cubic inches 5.899343L = 360 cubic inches 6.571213L = 401 cubic inches - ------------------------- SuperDawg: http://wagoneers.com/SuperDawg for sale: 1999 WJ - http://www.wagoneers.com/1999-WJ/ later, john - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com http://www.billygraham.org/spiritualhelp/steps.asp http://www.helpmewithbiblestudy.org/ http://www.persecution.com/about/index.cfm?action=vom http://www.freegift.net/ - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 11:33:11 -0800 From: john Subject: fsj: Re: 32 mpg At 10:57 AM 3/29/2003 -0800, Paul Schwartz pschw-at-earthlink.net wrote: > > Drove up I-5 to Mt.Vernon, down to Seattle and back home, > > 80% of this last tank was freeway mileage... rated at 33/44. > > Monday we install the new timing chain, hoses, etc. Have > > all the parts and ready to go... > >Timing chain is first on my list is major upgrades. Any thoughts on swedging >vs. a clip style master link? >Where would I get one of those swedging tools? >Paul I'd start with a search on Google.com :) I'm hoping the timing chain will improve the economy, but even at 32mpg it's a winner. My wife noticed that Diesel costs 11 cents more then unleaded... gears started turning (she's trying to justify keeping the WJ obviously) and said it costs more for Diesel. So, I did the math. 1.88 1.88 1.97 1.97 cost / gallon 17 14 32 40 mpg 10 10 10 10 gallons 170 140 320 400 miles driven 18.8 18.8 19.7 19.7 cost for 10gal 0.111 0.134 0.062 0.049 cost per mile So, the WJ costs about 13.4 cents per mile in town versus about 6.2 cents per mile in town for the 190D. The XJ runs about 11.1 cents per mile in town (the WJ gets almost 20 on the freeway). Ultimately when the 190D is dialed in, if it gets close to it's official EPA rating, it'll cost less then a nickel a mile to fuel. So, despite the increased costs of Diesel fuel the Diesel still offers better economy. john - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 14:23:14 -0800 From: john Subject: fsj: Re: xj: Carburetor question - WEBER is the BEST! anyone in Houston on the FSJ list can help tom out? email me and I'll get it to the xj list... john At 03:02 PM 3/29/2003 -0600, Tom Moulder wrote: >That's the main problem - I can't find anyone in Houston who has done this >before and can get me straightened out. I may go the fuel injection route as >long as it will pass emissions - they are getting tough in the larger cities >of Texas - we may end up like California... > > >john wrote: > > > > > The Weber carb is the best you could buy for that motor. I've > > installed Weber's on a number of rigs... they're the best. I'd suggest > > finding another mechanic. If it's wobbling on the manifold then you > > need to consider replacing the intake manifold or examining the base. > > > > The Weber carb is by far the best thing you can do to a small motor. I > > wouldn't recommend going back to the stock carb for a moment. > > > > It sounds more like an install issue. It could be that the intake > > manifold will need to be drilled and tapped or have inserts put in > > place. > > > > If you can't get the Weber to work then consider (it's mildly painful) > > upgrading the fuel system to the mid-86 year TBI setup. > > > > For real pain, go with the MPI setup from the later 2.5L. One of the > > guys I used to write with on cherokee america did it to his... he > > was a competent mechanic and struggled greatly with the conversion to > > a '90 2.5L in his early model XJ. > > > > The 2.5L is an awesome motor. The Weber is an awesome (the best I > > can think of) carb. The only thing better then going with the Weber > > is to go to the factory TBI setup. > > > > Find another mechanic that can fix your Weber setup. It shouldn't > > wobble and should add power and economy to your already sweet 2.5L. :) > > > > hang in there... btw, where are you located? Maybe a local Jeeper > > can help... > > > > john meister > > snohomish, washington > > > >-- >"The poets have been mysteriously silent on the subject of cheese." > >tm/Houston/88NA/85XJ - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 22:02:10 -0800 From: john Subject: fsj: FSJ decals http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2409371706 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 22:38:15 -0800 From: john Subject: fsj: brush guard & rear can/carrier I've got a couple of items that I want to get rid of. The brush guard came on my '77 Cherokee but it'll work on an XJ too. The rear carrier also came on the '77 Cherokee, not sure if it's work on an XJ or not, comes with the can... make me an offer on either or both... :) john http://www.wagoneers.com/tmp/BrushGuard-SJ-XJ/SJ-XJ-grille-guard.jpg http://www.wagoneers.com/tmp/BrushGuard-SJ-XJ/ - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 19:06:47 -0800 From: "Jim B" Subject: fsj: tie rod hole reamer wanted. I went looking for one today at Sears and other hardware stores with no luck. I need to make the holes larger for heavier duty tierods. Jim Blair, Seattle, WA '84 J10 Black Jack, '86 Comanche 4x4 ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1896 **************************