From listmom-at-listserver.tehabi.com Mon Mar 3 07:37:36 1997 Return-Path: listmom-at-listserver.tehabi.com Received: from listserver.tehabi.com (listserver.tehabi.com [207.167.76.152]) by wagoneers.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id HAA30720 for ; Mon, 3 Mar 1997 07:37:18 -0800 Received: from listserver.tehabi.com (207.167.76.152) by listserver.tehabi.com with SMTP (Apple Internet Mail Server 1.1.1); Mon, 3 Mar 1997 07:33:01 -0800 Sender: fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com Errors-To: listmom-at-listserver.tehabi.com Reply-To: fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com Message-Id: <1354748150-at-listserver.tehabi.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" From: fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com X-Listserver: Macjordomo - A Macintosh Listserver by Michele Fuortes Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 07:32:26 -0800 Precedence: Bulk To: Multiple recipients of Subject: FSJ-List-Digest - Number 206 Status: RO FSJ-List-Digest Monday, March 3, 1997 Issue 206 Today's Topics: Re: Lifts for 87 Grand Wagoneer Re: 360 timing Re: John . . .A what? Sales and Grand Wagoneers Re: Jeff's Cherokee's gearing Compuserve has cut me off! Subject: Re: Tires and "Is smaller better?" A What? COW MAGNET!!!! Re: FSJ engines, which one for 20mpg... Blinker (was Re: Questions) It's alive! Re: New Guy On the List Subject: Re: Lifts for 87 Grand Wagoneer high Performance AMC v8 oil pump AMC V8 Mods (again...) 360 timing Vacuum leak & EGR Valve Tires and "Is smaller better?" Re: high Performance AMC v8 oil pump Re: playing in water Re: 71Cherokee Re: A What? COW MAGNET!!!! Re: A What? COW MAGNET!!!! answer..... The Quest for the Bellhousing, The search goes on....... Special good deal Re: 71Cherokee Re: It's alive & Valve Seals Re: The Quest for the Bellhousing, The search goes on....... Re: Spring over Re: AMC V8 Mods (again...) FW: AMC v8 oil pump - Milodon $$$$ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 2 Mar 1997 23:29:10 -0500 From: "Mike Gibson" Subject: Re: Lifts for 87 Grand Wagoneer hey Dan it's mike again I just saw your price list here. lets put it this way total cost of this system you priced is $735 here's the system I got 3-4 inch skyjacker w/4 new leafs 4 skyjacker shocks drop pitman arm all included in kit for about $800 as for the extended brake lines you only need one for the rear the front stock is plenty long enough. rear braided brake line about $40 so for another $105 bucks you could forget about the blocks and have a completely new suspension. Mike Gibson magibltd-at-seacoast.com http://www.seacoast.com/~magibltd/jeep.html where the jeeps get bigger ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Mar 1997 11:30:36 -0500 From: Joe Sego Subject: Re: 360 timing Matt said; snip-> >Is the EGR assembly expensive or available from the dealer? does anyone know? Matt, Auto-Zone has them for $25-30. C'ya Joe- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:32:56 -0800 From: Landen Schooler Subject: Re: John . . .A what? MasterDan-at-aol.com wrote: > > >>>Bottom line, DO NOT use additives or treaments. IF you want to "feel" > good > about your motor, buy a cow magnet rather... >>> > > Huh??? > > --------------------------------------------------- > To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command > "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > > We know who us farm boys are, eh! Landen Schooler ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 02:00:31 -0500 (EST) From: MasterDan-at-aol.com Subject: Sales and Grand Wagoneers Dear Rubicone Sales, I thought to send this message to Rubicone Sales because sales can make it happen. At the same time, why haven't you done it yet?!? What I am referring to is part, kits, and accessories for the series of Jeep Grand Wagoneers. These vehicles use mostly the same parts for all years of production and are very popular. In fact, I know in my town alone there are over 24 registered! SOME of the items I/we would like to see are: ** Lift kits 2 1/2" and 4" (please don't just throw lift block kits at us: we drive Jeep SJ vehicles because we enjoy safety and demand quality . . Front AND Rear leaf spring packs would be best (remember that military wrap is best for these heavys) ** Suspension "extenders" for track bars and anti-sway (for when we do the lifts) ** Front bumbers and/or brush guards ** Body lift kits (1", 1 1/2", and 2" would probably do it. . . hey start with the 1 1/2" and see!) ** Steering brace units ** Wind deflectors for the sun roofs ** Replacement roof racks with options for lift jacks, gas tanks, CB antenna mounts, etc. These are just some examples. I have Full Size Jeep friends across the country (and a handful internationally) that I speak with almost every day. If you would like a more comprehensive list of "desired parts", please let me know. Until then, take care of yourselves. We wish you the best. Daniel Leisy MasterDan-at-AOL.Com PS: Most of us PLAN on taking our Full Size Jeeps, our Grand Wagoneers on the Rubicone. I hope we can do it with your parts installed. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:01:27 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: Re: Jeff's Cherokee's gearing ------------------------------------------------- FORWARDED MESSAGE - Orig: 27-Feb-97 14:35:58 Subject: Re: Jeff's Cherokee's gearing From: Michael Baxter 74172,1164 To: FSJ-List (Posts) INTERNET:FSJ-List-at-listserver.tehabi.com ------------------------------------------------- "Jeff Gunn" writes: >> Well, the tag had 14 and 48 on it, which is 3.43. << Jeff, it's been my experience that some of the mid-late 70s tags just spelled out plain and simple. So, look for "3 . X X" before you resort to math. If the ratio is stamped, it'll be stretched-out and you may not notice the numbers belong together at 1st glance. But, I have seen some tags that required the math to figure-out as well. >> The important thing to remember here, I guess, is that the VIN states that I have a 1978 Cherokee 4-door with a 360 4-barrel, but the motor is a 1977 360 2-barrel. I could anything from 4.11s to 2.08s under there! << Hmmm..wonder if your Cherokee used to live near Toledo and was once considered for the subject of a Johnny Cash song? :-). -- Michael Baxter 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com baxter-advertising-at-worldnet.att.net http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:00:58 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: Compuserve has cut me off! I have been merrily receiving personal e-mail and List Digests since last Thurs. except that my replies weren't showing up on the list. The outgoing messages were going out without any error msgs. or bounces. I figured they were out there somewhere and would eventually arrive. Today after none had arrived and Joe is sending me mail like he hasn't heard from me in awhile, I got suspicious and sent several test messages to myself and my AT&T account and nothing ever made the trip. It appears CIS's servers have been happily accepting e-mail from me since sometime on Thurs. and forwarding it to bit heaven. I'm about to post all the replies that did not make it on the list since Thurs. and I apologize in advance if the originals ever find there way to the list server. Here they come....I secretly always wanted to capitalize a whole digest like Doc :-). -- Michael Baxter 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com baxter-advertising-at-worldnet.att.net http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 02:17:01 -0500 (EST) From: MasterDan-at-aol.com Subject: Subject: Re: Tires and "Is smaller better?" >>>>innier tire is better for ice because more wieght per patch means more control . a wider tire is better for mud ,sand because you want to float the weight is distributed across the width of the tirewider = flotation hope this may clear it up a little. louhg-at-aol.com rustyy83>>>>>>> What about hard pack dirt and/or hard pack with loose gravel/dirt covering. A lot of this in the local southern CA mountains - Big Bear. Dan ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 02:35:03 -0500 (EST) From: MasterDan-at-aol.com Subject: A What? COW MAGNET!!!! >>>>>Subject: Re: John . . .A what? ever heard of the cow magnet on the fuel line? supposed to give ya better mileage... was the rage in the early 80's...>>>>> NO! In the mid eighties I was in school just fighting to keep my volkswagon running so I never heard of one!!! What is a COW MAGNET? Dan ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:11:36 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: Re: FSJ engines, which one for 20mpg... ------------------------------------------------- FORWARDED MESSAGE - Orig: 27-Feb-97 18:34:05 Subject: Re: FSJ engines, which one for 20mpg... From: Michael Baxter 74172,1164 To: FSJ-List (Posts) INTERNET:FSJ-List-at-listserver.tehabi.com ------------------------------------------------- Joe Sego writes: >> IMHO if anyone on this list approaches 20 mpg with a 360 it will be Mike B., but he is gonna spend some major $$ to do it, right Michael? Plus he will do it with a 401, not a 360 in a lighter Cherokee. << Hey it's been done. Remember Jim the Mechanic? He had a Wide-Track w/ 33s and a Holley Projection. 20 MPG highway! Haven't heard from Jim in awhile...hey Jim...you still with us in lurk mode? I eliminated the plan to sleeve the block to 4" which would have made it 370 cu. in. I had no problem keeping the HP but the torque went away like crazy. Not good at my altitude. The plan may come back if the block won't clean-up in .020 but, in that case I'll run a 4.06 bore. Though, a 4.06 bore won't allow for further overbore in the future due to minimum req'd sleeve thickness. It's like Catch 22! The largest frictional losses in an engine are pistons to cylinder walls friction. The smaller the bore, the less the friction. I'm hoping for BETTER than 20 MPG but, I'm using every trick in the book. Highest compression possible on 87 octane, maximum quench, smallest piston to cylinder clearance, thermal barrier coatings, anti-friction coatings, custom ground cam, overdrive tranny w/ lock-up converter, port fuel injection, etc. Now I'm looking at the feasibility of using Chrysler Magnum hydraulic roller lifters and a roller cam profile. I know they'll fit the lifter bores but, I don't know if they'll fit the block? This would provide a further reduction in friction and faster ramps to improve low-lift flow. -- Michael Baxter 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com baxter-advertising-at-worldnet.att.net http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:13:16 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: Blinker (was Re: Questions) ------------------------------------------------- FORWARDED MESSAGE - Orig: 27-Feb-97 18:34:05 Subject: Blinker (was Re: Questions) From: Michael Baxter 74172,1164 To: FSJ-List (Posts) INTERNET:FSJ-List-at-listserver.tehabi.com ------------------------------------------------- Gordon McKenzie writes: >> Any advice on the blinker switch? Mine has recently developed a habit of not turning off after a left turn. << I changed the turn signal switch a long, long time ago on the Wag. It's doable. Not bad at all but, you need a "lock plate compressor." They run about $15 and I see them all over the place. Also, it would hurt to have a puller on hand to pull the steering wheel. I didn't need to use one but, I had one. If you don't have a puller, you'll need it guaranteed. The other guys on the list are more familiar with Murphy's whereabouts than me. -- Michael Baxter 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com baxter-advertising-at-worldnet.att.net http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:14:36 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: It's alive! ------------------------------------------------- FORWARDED MESSAGE - Orig: 27-Feb-97 18:34:05 Subject: It's alive! From: Michael Baxter 74172,1164 To: FSJ-List (Posts) INTERNET:FSJ-List-at-listserver.tehabi.com ------------------------------------------------- "Renshaw, Ken" writes: >> just thought I'd brag a little.... << I'm jealous Ken! Hey, if the weather ruins your plans to go wheeling (and it will) bring that thing to town. Mick and I promise not to drool too much on the hood. We have good Microbrew and lunch is on me. I have a meeting at 3 p.m. on Sat. but, otherwise I'm free. We'll go see the Last Wag. and the Jerrari! phone: 702-747-7163 PS. Leave the ARBs UNLOCKED on the slippery stuff. Plus don't be tempted to drive too fast just because other 4x4s are passing you. I saw a Jeep GC and a Toyota P/U upside down in the median today. -- Michael Baxter 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com baxter-advertising-at-worldnet.att.net http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:18:44 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: Re: New Guy On the List ------------------------------------------------- FORWARDED MESSAGE - Orig: 01-Mar-97 11:13:21 Subject: Re: New Guy On the List From: Michael Baxter 74172,1164 To: FSJ-List (Posts) INTERNET:FSJ-List-at-listserver.tehabi.com ------------------------------------------------- "Lic. Eduardo N. Reza Mtz." writes: >> Welcome from Mexico, Rick, I'm a ham radio operator too. << You know...if I had a dollar for every ham and every '79 FSJ on this list, I could finish my 401! N7OVD -- Michael Baxter 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com baxter-advertising-at-worldnet.att.net http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 02:39:59 -0500 (EST) From: MasterDan-at-aol.com Subject: Subject: Re: Lifts for 87 Grand Wagoneer "Kenneth E. Wetherall" wrote: > 90.00 Front Brake lines (extended an steel braided) seems expensive. . this kit should also include the rear line as well!! ** I asked and 4 Wheel Wholesalers said this was front only! As a matter of fact they said that the rears were not available and that I should go to a parts dealer and ask for lines for something else that would have matching fittings with a longer hose!!! > A friend to come over!!! Anyone wanting scraped knuckles near Gardena, CA??? how far is that from the bay area? Gardena is 4 miles from Los Angles Airport (LAX). Dang! I know we call this the South Bay, but I think you are in the "real" Bay area! ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:21:46 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: high Performance AMC v8 oil pump ------------------------------------------------- FORWARDED MESSAGE - Orig: 01-Mar-97 11:13:21 Subject: high Performance AMC v8 oil pump From: Michael Baxter 74172,1164 To: FSJ-List (Posts) INTERNET:FSJ-List-at-listserver.tehabi.com ------------------------------------------------- GypsyLive-at-aol.com writes: >> Does this thing exsist? Did I dream it up? << Actually, Milodon supposedly makes some sort of kit but, it is a racing only deal. I understand it's very expensive. Like...$600-700 :-o. I don't think you'll find it listed in anybody's catalog but, Milodon's and you'll have to call them to make sure they're still producing the system. I understand via a 3rd party that they are still making the kit. I don't know any details on how it works. I can imagine at one extreme it could actually move the pump down and at the other it may just be a spacer that sandwiches between the current oil pump housing and the cover/filter/pressure relief housing. This would allow for longer gears to be used. Actually, the AMC oil pump gears are pretty big to begin with. Certainly much bigger than our Buick brother's 350s >> can you explain this washer shimming theory? << Matt, there is a spring loaded piston in the oil pump housing that reduces pressure when the oil is cold. There is either a big bolt or an allen head plug in the end of the bore. If you undo the bolt/plug, out will come the spring and little piston. When the oil pressure is high, it pushes the piston down and unports a hole in the bore. Oil flows through the hole back to the sump. If you add washers to the bottom of the spring, it increases the tension on the spring and it takes more oil pressure to unport the hole thus, increasing the pressure. I don't have any answers for increasing hot/idle oil pressure in AMC V-8s as we have yet to figure-out why the hot/idle oil pressure goes away in some of them. I can guess that it may be due to increased bearing clearances from wear. Especially the cam bearings. The Chero. has never idled in the Summer with less than 35 psi. It runs between 50 & 60 when turning more than 2,000 RPM. This time of the year, I don't see less than 45 psi ever. I do however have some ideas on what I'm going to do to the 401: 1. Make real sure all the bearing clearances are at the preferred or less specs. This includes replacing the cam bears and checking their clearances carefully as well. Always replace the cam bearings in a AMC V-8 at rebuild time! 2. Blueprint the oil pump. 3. Check the oil pressure relief piston to bore clearance and correct as necessary. 4. Slightly enlarge and polish the oil inlet passage into the pump. 5. I'll look long and hard at increasing the size of the passages that run from the passenger side lifter galley down to the crank and feed the bottom-end. 6. Ensure that the oil pick-up tube is tight. No cracks/gaps to allow air leaks. 7. Tap the driver's side oil galley plug deeper and get a slightly longer plug. This passage feeds the lifters/top-end. Installing the plug into the oil passage slightly will restrict the flow somewhat to the top-end (which gets too much oil in AMC V-8s). 8. Possibly teflon coat the main oil galley like 35sKen did. 9. Paint the valley with the special red paint available to enhance oil drain back. 10. All the AMC V-8s I've seen already have a windage tray but, I'll fabricate a crank scraper to keep the oil from clinging to the crank throws. 11. Pay close attention when installing galley plugs & bearings that you don't cover or mis-align any oil holes. There is a galley plug behind the timing cover near the center of the block that has a hole behind it which feeds the #1 main and #1 & #2 rod bearings. It is easy to plug the hole with the galley plug. 12. Cross drill and camphor the crankshaft. 13. Don't fabricate and install anything that could slow down oil drain-back. Like screens in the valley to prevent debris from falling into the oil pan. This effort will have two goals. Good hot/idle oil pressure and to maximize oil flow to the rear main and #7 & #8 rod bearings. They are the last to get oil in the AMC V-8 oil system and they reportedly don't get enough. Not being up on fluid dynamics very much, it is important to realize that there is a big difference between pressure and flow. You can have 100 psi in your AMC V-8 but, it doesn't mean you'll have good oil flow. It's likely that an engine with only 35 psi will have more flow than your 100 psi motor. -- Michael Baxter 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com baxter-advertising-at-worldnet.att.net http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:23:10 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: AMC V8 Mods (again...) ------------------------------------------------- FORWARDED MESSAGE - Orig: 01-Mar-97 11:13:21 Subject: AMC V8 Mods (again...) From: Michael Baxter 74172,1164 To: FSJ-List (Posts) INTERNET:FSJ-List-at-listserver.tehabi.com ------------------------------------------------- Jim Weisflock writes: >> Well, first time I posted this I got no reply... Figure I'll try again << >> trying to decide between Howell TBI and Holley Projection systems << I have no experience with any of the TBI kits but, it does seem the Howell kit would be a better choice than the Holley Analog kits w/ the limited loop-back. Now, I don't know how the newer Holley Digital kits figure in but, the Howell kits use tried and true GM components that you can get from any auto parts store anywhere. If it breaks a long way from home, that will be one HUGE advantage. If ANYBODY on the list posts and does not get an answer, by all means post again and tell us where a bunch of dirt bags for ignoring you! :-) -- Michael Baxter 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com baxter-advertising-at-worldnet.att.net http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:29:06 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: 360 timing ------------------------------------------------- FORWARDED MESSAGE - Orig: 02-Mar-97 16:08:58 Subject: 360 timing From: Michael Baxter 74172,1164 To: FSJ-List (Posts) INTERNET:FSJ-List-at-listserver.tehabi.com ------------------------------------------------- "Gordon McKenzie" writes: >> does everyone with a 360 have them advanced? I've got mine pretty far and have yet to hear it ping but am concerned that I may have gone overboard. I always have used the advance till it pings and then back off routine, but can I do damage without hearing the pinging? << I run mine at 15 BTDC initial with 36-38 total advance. No pinging (at 5,000 ft.). Works great...less filling (at the gas pump). -- Michael Baxter 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com baxter-advertising-at-worldnet.att.net http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:29:55 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: Vacuum leak & EGR Valve ------------------------------------------------- FORWARDED MESSAGE - Orig: 02-Mar-97 16:08:58 Subject: Vacuum leak & EGR Valve From: Michael Baxter 74172,1164 To: FSJ-List (Posts) INTERNET:FSJ-List-at-listserver.tehabi.com ------------------------------------------------- "Gordon McKenzie" writes: >> should this hose be routed through a temperature switch from the coolant? << >> I seem to have two doohickey's with vacuum ports and no hoses. One in the thermostat housing and one in the manifold closer to the alternator. So, how is the EGR supposed to be routed. << The thingamajig (EGR CTO Switch) with two ports by the alternator (passenger side front of the intake manifold) should indeed be hooked-up to the EGR valve. There is a port vacuum outlet on the driver's side front of the carb. near the driver's side idle mix screw. From that port to one of the ports on the EGR CTO. Then from the other EGR CTO port to the EGR valve. Makes no difference which port you connect to on the EGR CTO since it's just an on/off affair. On above 115 F. The other thingamajig in the thermostat housing is the Vacuum Advance CTO Switch. It has three ports. The center port goes to the vacuum advance canister on the distributor. The outer port goes to manifold vacuum via a T connector. The tee is located inline between a manifold vac. source directly in front of the carb. in the intake manifold and the Diverter Valve which is located in the plumbing from the A.I.R. (smog) pump. The inner port is connected to the ported vacuum source located on the carb., near the front, on the passenger side of the carb. The vac. line has an inline tee near the carb. that goes to the purge canister. It sounds like some ingenious mechanic disconnected your EGR valve and tried to make it not noticeable. I've seen some pretty good attempts at this. The best one was a 1/2" long steel rod inserted in the middle of the vacuum line between the EGR Valve and the CTO switch. Took me a little while to find that one. -- Michael Baxter 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com baxter-advertising-at-worldnet.att.net http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:36:01 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: Tires and "Is smaller better?" MasterDan-at-aol.com writes: >> Did anyone read the question to editor in the March 4 Wheeler called Fat Tire vs. Skinny Tire? The editor seemed to be advocating a skinny tire for certain situations because the skinny tire has more ground pressure. . . . . << Dan, at least around here on decomposed granite and snow; skinny tires do much, much, better than fat ones. Case in point the Wag. has 235/75-15s and the Chero. has 31x10.5x15s. The Wag. is so much better than the Chero. I sometimes wonder if the Chero. is indeed in 4WD! I'm planning to use 255/85-16s on the Chero. as soon as the current Michelins wear out. They are slightly narrower than a 31x10.5 but, they range from 32.8 to 33.4" tall depending on manufacturer. My current tires have pretty close to 50,000 miles on them now and look like they'll easily make 60,000. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:35:55 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: Re: high Performance AMC v8 oil pump "Lee Smith (Douglas)" writes: >> I've found that most poured and floated concrete is flatter than a piece of plywood << I recommended to Matt via e-mail to use a piece of flat safety glass like the roll-up/down side windows on a FSJ. If you get a window out of a FSJ in a junk yard, you could also install it as a spare in case of some mishap. I personally use a VW Bug side window when I need a good flat surface to work something. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:36:07 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: Re: playing in water Joe Schaefer writes: >> >Don't wanna beat this to death, but are you guys saying that if you cross >water, say up to the bumpers even one time one MUST drain the diffs. and >repack the bearings?? If this is the case, I'm going to be selective about my >playtime habits! >Brad Feick > Brad IMHO, I'd at least stick my finger in the fill hole on the diffs when you got home and see what's inside. << Joe, just make sure you stick you finger in immediately. Plus if you have hubs, you must leave them locked all the way home. Oil weighs 7.5 lbs per gallon and water 8.0 lbs. per gallon. If it sits for even 10 minutes, the water will separate out and sink to the bottom. You'll stick your finger in and find aerated oil. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:36:12 From: "Baxter Enterprises Inc. d.b.a. Baxter Advertising" Subject: Re: 71Cherokee "Lee Smith (Douglas)" writes: >> What makes an FSJ a Wide Track or not? I have seen this term used, but have not caught on to the feature that accomplishes it. Isn't a narrow track better for getting in and out of tight spots, especially when you consider the track that these hogs we're in love with already have? << Douglas?, the Wide-Track Cherokees are all two doors with large metal fender flares. They have much more room in the fenders for larger tires and the axles that are 5" wider than the narrow Wags & Cherokees. Because the Wide-Tracks came form the factory with 31 & 33" tires, they have a wider turning radius than the Narrow-Tracks. And of course, they don't fit through the tight spots as readily due to theincreased width. The advantage of the Wide-Tracks is they are more stable and they do handle better on and off the road. I have a '79 Wide-Track Cherokee and a '79 Wagoneer. BTW, the J-Trucks fit into the same category as the Wide-Track Cherokees. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Mar 1997 23:59:21 -0800 From: Joe Schaefer Subject: Re: A What? COW MAGNET!!!! At 02:35 03-03-97 -0500, you wrote: >>>>>>Subject: Re: John . . .A what? >ever heard of the cow magnet on the fuel line? supposed to give >ya better mileage... was the rage in the early 80's...>>>>> > >NO! In the mid eighties I was in school just fighting to keep my volkswagon >running so I never heard of one!!! What is a COW MAGNET? > >Dan > Dan, I'm gonna wing it here. Cow magnets are for forcing down cows throats, sweet talking 'em to swallowing 'em or maybe...Anyway I guess they are supposed to collect the odd bits of wire etc that a cow ingests occasionally. Landon, you're way more farm wise than I, feel free to jump in here. Anyway somebody in the back of a Popular Science ad or somewhere came up with the theory that fuel is made up of +,- charged particles as is everything else, sooo.. if you tape these cow magnets onto your fuel line. They will line up all the little +'s and -'s making the fuel flow better and in turn burn better thereby giving you a tremendous gain in mpg's. :) Wanna buy some :) Actually I had a local helper hired for the summer when I was working in central Idaho that had two taped to his fuel line at the carb and swore he got a couple of miles per gallon better than without 'em :D Go figure...? Yeah this was about 1980 or so. The facts etc are rough but thats the gist of the cow magnet thing. ~~~~~~~~ Regards, -jj ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Mar 1997 02:04:42 -0800 From: Landen Schooler Subject: Re: A What? COW MAGNET!!!! answer..... Ok, I guess I'll have to tell the city kids what it is and what it's for..... It's about 2" long and about 1/2" in dia and plastic coated. Cattle, when eating will pick up nails, bolts, and sharp metal stuff. As long as it stays in the rumen ( first of 4 stomchs ) no problem. But when this junk moves though the intestines it can poke holes = peritinitis = Dead cow. The cow in convinced to swallow the magnet with the help of a tool made to give the critters pills. ( BIG pills ) The magnet keeps the iron in the rumen were it will do no harm. It's called "Hardware Diease" Did that answer the question? ;-) Landen Schooler MasterDan-at-aol.com wrote: > > >>>>>Subject: Re: John . . .A what? > ever heard of the cow magnet on the fuel line? supposed to give > ya better mileage... was the rage in the early 80's...>>>>> > > NO! In the mid eighties I was in school just fighting to keep my volkswagon > running so I never heard of one!!! What is a COW MAGNET? > > Dan > > --------------------------------------------------- > To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command > "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Mar 1997 08:13:52 -0800 From: Landen Schooler Subject: The Quest for the Bellhousing, The search goes on....... Ok Jeep-l & FSJ gangs, I have found the proper casting number of the bellhousing I need. #947397 This is a Kasier Jeep era number. This bell housing was optional on all Willys/Kaiser/Jeep Wagons and trucks with the L6-226 or OHC6-230 engines. It was also standand on all Kaiser Jeep M-715/725 trucks. I would think with the coverage of these two groups, someone would know where to find one. ( I'd like to get three, spare parts..) If anyone finds one, the casting number is on the face that the trans bolts to. It will always be a T-98/18 4-sp. If it's on an engine, to get it off, the clutch pressure plate and disc has to come out the bottom of the bellhousing, then the flywheel has to come out. Then there are three bolts on the INSIDE and two on the outside, and it's off. If the engine is locked up the only way to get at the bolts is to pull the crankshaft and clutch/flywheel out in one piece. Then you can get to the inside tree bolts. This way is a real pain. So I cast my msg in a bottle, I hope the proper Jeep folks read it. Thanks all, Landen Schooler ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 07:20:52 -0700 From: trust-at-lanl.gov (Terry Rust) Subject: Special good deal >I have a good deal for those who would like to "do Moab" this year (three >weeks away) but don't have a ride. Mine is for sale!, You can fly into >Albuquerque NM and I will pick you up, sell you my one owner 1974 CJ 5 >with the 304, projection, T18, 4.27s, Detroits, Beard Seats, Full Cage, >8274, Centerlines, 33s, shackle reversal, and much more. You can then >motor up to Moab (7-8 hours away) for the Safari, do any of the trails you >so desire, and motor on home from there. I will even send you out of White >Rock with both tanks full! > >Alternatively, for those who prefer something bigger, I could sell you my >78 J10 with the recently rebuilt 360 and turbo 400, 4.09 gears, lift, 35s, >AC and stereo for the ride home, a campershell, winch (just in case) and a >new radiator, master cylinder, tranny cooler and mucho other goodies. > >email me direct so I'll know which flight, sorry, only one of each for >sale this week. Terry Rust trust-at-lanl.gov ESH-5/CST-18 (505) 665-8843 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Mar 1997 08:46:22 -0600 From: kenc-at-softthought.com (Ken Cyr) Subject: Re: 71Cherokee ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Mar 1997 00:59:42 -0500 From: "Dennis M. \"Doc\" Fariello" The ONLY thing that really gives you extra clearance is bigger tires. That's the ONLY way to get the axles up, everything else just gets everything else up, but you can still hang a pumpkin on stuff. So what you need is bigger tires, and of course probably a substantial lift to fit the bigger tires. I agree, simple concept many people miss. As far as what's "best", there are a million different points of view out there. Personally, I believe in as little lift as possible. Timex until about June had 33s, at the stock height. She presently has 31s. On a wagon-type, you really can't fit anything bigger than 30s without a minimum of four inches lift. 4-inch lift to run 31's?? Not sure about that one. I've seen 31's on a few stock GW's, no major rubbing, sagging factory leafs and all. I suspect you could run BFG-MudTerrain 33x9.50's with factory springs... -Ken Cyr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 09:52:53 -0400 From: Jeff Wynn Subject: Re: It's alive & Valve Seals >At 05:53 PM 2/28/97 EST, billy dunn wrote: >>--- Appalachian Trail Conference --- >>--- Volunteer-centered management of the A.T. since 1925 --- >>--- mailto:info-at-atconf.org --- http://www.atconf.org --- >>Opinions herein should not be construed to be those of the >>Appalachian Trail Conference unless *explicitly* so stated. >>>>>>>> >Whre are you located? The trail comes through here near that 1/2 mile 60deg >hill I wrote about. >Bard Feick OOPS, I really didn't mean to post my whole .sig. FWIW, our main office is here in historic and lovely Harpers Ferry, WV of John Brown, Stonewall Jackson, and the Col. Robt E. Lee fame. We also have Regional offices in Asheville NC, Boiling Springs, PA, Newport VA and Lyme NH. Sorry, but I'm not very familiar with that sections of Trail. As the ATC's computer nerd i don't get nearly enough "field work". Regards, Jeff Wynn 1973 J-4000 4bbl (*still* waiting for valve seals after a rained out beer swilling/truck fixing day) PS- I bought valve seals and the removal tool, and the valve seals are, of all things, NYLON! Anybody have experience with these? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 09:57:42 -0500 (EST) From: GypsyLive-at-aol.com Subject: Re: The Quest for the Bellhousing, The search goes on....... In a message dated 97-03-03 09:52:41 EST, you write: > > This is a Kasier Jeep era number. This bell housing was optional on all > Willys/Kaiser/Jeep Wagons and trucks with the L6-226 or OHC6-230 > engines. > It was also standand on all Kaiser Jeep M-715/725 trucks. > I would think with the coverage of these two groups, someone would know > where to find one. ( I'd like to get three, spare parts..) If anyone > finds one, the casting number is on the face that the trans bolts to. It > will always be a T-98/18 4-sp. If it's on an engine, to get it off, the > clutch pressure plate and disc has to come out the bottom of the > bellhousing, then the flywheel has to come out. Then there are three > bolts on the INSIDE and two on the outside, and it's off. If the engine > is locked up the only way to get at the bolts is to pull the crankshaft > and clutch/flywheel out in one piece. Then you can get to the inside > tree bolts. This way is a real pain. > > So I cast my msg in a bottle, I hope the proper Jeep folks read it. > Thanks all, > Landen Schooler > there was one for sale here last year, an old J2000 , 64 model I think 230 OHC engine, and t98 I think...It ran, but wasnt registered, no title and very rusty, they guy wanted 350, wife would not let me.....In retrospect I guess I should have begged more!.. Ill keep eyes open, lots of old farm trucks around... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Mar 1997 08:11:06 -0700 (MST) From: Brian Riggs Subject: Re: Spring over On Fri, 28 Feb 1997, billy dunn wrote: > >Brian,Talked with him today and he wants to keep the d300.I do know where > another is though.(In my back yard):)They are pretty scarce around here.I > would probably want at least 350.00 for it plus shipping.Interested??? > Billy What is it set up to mate to right now? If it will bolt to my T18 without having to get an adapter plate I'd be very interested. Otherwise I'd have to see about an adapter for it and make a decision. Thanks, Brian *-------------------------------------------------------------* | briggs-at-genetics.utah.edu | Web Page Development UtahFWDA | | justbr-at-aol.com | Storm Mountain 4X4 SLC Ut | | | Red Rock 4Wheelers Moab Ut | |-------------------------------------------------------------| |'79 Cherokee Chief S: AMC 360, T18, Dana20, Dana 44 front and| |rear with 4.56 gears & Lock-Rites, 35" BFG M/Ts, 4" SkyJacker| |SoftRide Lift, Some rust, And lots of dents. =8) | *-------------------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Mar 1997 09:21:09 -0600 From: kenc-at-softthought.com (Ken Cyr) Subject: Re: AMC V8 Mods (again...) > From: Jim Weisflock > Subject: AMC V8 Mods (again...) > Well, first time I posted this I got no reply... Figure I'll try > again, since it's becoming a list topic, here we go... Jim, I researched these aftermarket kits a couple years ago, so my information may be dated. I suggest calling Howell and Holley, ask to talk to a technical person about the systems. My vote is for the Howell EFI kit. Howell uses the GM ECM as well as most other parts available at your local parts house. The particular ECM Howell includes can be described as a "learning" computer, which has considerable advantages over the Holley control system. The only advantage Holley has is price. I've seen the base open-loop 2v setup go for as low as $465 or so. The Howell kit goes for around $1000 depending on which TBI unit you go for. You get what you pay for. -Ken Cyr ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Mar 97 08:16:00 PST From: "Jandrt, Rick" Subject: FW: AMC v8 oil pump - Milodon $$$$ This kit was a dry sump system designed for racing purposes. Rick(chocolate Moose) ---------- >> Does this thing exsist? Did I dream it up? << Actually, Milodon supposedly makes some sort of kit but, it is a racing only deal. I understand it's very expensive. Like...$600-700 :-o. I don't think you'll find it listed in anybody's catalog but, Milodon's and you'll have to call them to make sure they're still producing the system. I understand via a 3rd party that they are still making the kit. I don't know any details on how it works. I can imagine at one extreme it could actually move the pump down and at the other it may just be a spacer that sandwiches between the current oil pump housing and the cover/filter/pressure relief housing. This would allow for longer gears to be used. Actually, the AMC oil pump gears are pretty big to begin with. Certainly much bigger than our Buick brother's 350s >> can you explain this washer shimming theory? << Matt, there is a spring loaded piston in the oil pump housing that reduces pressure when the oil is cold. There is either a big bolt or an allen head plug in the end of the bore. If you undo the bolt/plug, out will come the spring and little piston. When the oil pressure is high, it pushes the piston down and unports a hole in the bore. Oil flows through the hole back to the sump. If you add washers to the bottom of the spring, it increases the tension on the spring and it takes more oil pressure to unport the hole thus, increasing the pressure. I don't have any answers for increasing hot/idle oil pressure in AMC V-8s as we have yet to figure-out why the hot/idle oil pressure goes away in some of them. I can guess that it may be due to increased bearing clearances from wear. Especially the cam bearings. The Chero. has never idled in the Summer with less than 35 psi. It runs between 50 & 60 when turning more than 2,000 RPM. This time of the year, I don't see less than 45 psi ever. I do however have some ideas on what I'm going to do to the 401: 1. Make real sure all the bearing clearances are at the preferred or less specs. This includes replacing the cam bears and checking their clearances carefully as well. Always replace the cam bearings in a AMC V-8 at rebuild time! 2. Blueprint the oil pump. 3. Check the oil pressure relief piston to bore clearance and correct as necessary. 4. Slightly enlarge and polish the oil inlet passage into the pump. 5. I'll look long and hard at increasing the size of the passages that run from the passenger side lifter galley down to the crank and feed the bottom-end. 6. Ensure that the oil pick-up tube is tight. No cracks/gaps to allow air leaks. 7. Tap the driver's side oil galley plug deeper and get a slightly longer plug. This passage feeds the lifters/top-end. Installing the plug into the oil passage slightly will restrict the flow somewhat to the top-end (which gets too much oil in AMC V-8s). 8. Possibly teflon coat the main oil galley like 35sKen did. 9. Paint the valley with the special red paint available to enhance oil drain back. 10. All the AMC V-8s I've seen already have a windage tray but, I'll fabricate a crank scraper to keep the oil from clinging to the crank throws. 11. Pay close attention when installing galley plugs & bearings that you don't cover or mis-align any oil holes. There is a galley plug behind the timing cover near the center of the block that has a hole behind it which feeds the #1 main and #1 & #2 rod bearings. It is easy to plug the hole with the galley plug. 12. Cross drill and camphor the crankshaft. 13. Don't fabricate and install anything that could slow down oil drain-back. Like screens in the valley to prevent debris from falling into the oil pan. This effort will have two goals. Good hot/idle oil pressure and to maximize oil flow to the rear main and #7 & #8 rod bearings. They are the last to get oil in the AMC V-8 oil system and they reportedly don't get enough. Not being up on fluid dynamics very much, it is important to realize that there is a big difference between pressure and flow. You can have 100 psi in your AMC V-8 but, it doesn't mean you'll have good oil flow. It's likely that an engine with only 35 psi will have more flow than your 100 psi motor. -- Michael Baxter 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com baxter-advertising-at-worldnet.att.net http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA --------------------------------------------------- To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the bod