From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Sun Jun 6 22:38:33 2004 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Monday, June 7 2004 Volume 01 : Number 2164 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: re: fan in rad fsj: Re: re: fan in rad fsj: Re: re: fan in rad Re: fsj: re: fan in rad fsj: where's Ray? fsj: remote mirror switch fsj: head checks FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 16:28:11 -0700 From: "Chris Stevens" Subject: fsj: re: fan in rad Are you sure that the problem isn't that the motor mounts are shot, allowing engine to move enough (under load - not in neutral) that the fan hits the radiator and breaks the pump housing & radiator? Unless the fan hits something or the fan belt is waaay too tight, there should be almost no load on the housing, so it would have to be extremely brittle to break. (If there was enough load on the housing to break the casting, the bearing would last only a few thousand miles at most...) Chris Stevens Flying Machine Development Inc. ____________________________ o: 206.956.1993 c: 206.618.5437 w: www.flyingmachine.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 16:48:08 -0700 From: "Jim Blair" Subject: fsj: Re: re: fan in rad A: Absolutely. Motor mounts are 1 year old and I tested with the trans in neutral w/o a rad and it flew apart. I showed it to a couple other parts guys and they agree it was cast WAAAY too thin for strength. I got only 4 months out of it. I just rechecked in gear with full throttle (I wasn't even past 1/4 throttle the first time) and did a lovely burnout with my 33" tires in low range. Chris wrote: Are you sure that the problem isn't that the motor mounts are shot, allowing engine to move enough (under load - not in neutral) that the fan hits the radiator and breaks the pump housing & radiator? Unless the fan hits something or the fan belt is waaay too tight, there should be almost no load on the housing, so it would have to be extremely brittle to break. (If there was enough load on the housing to break the casting, the bearing would last only a few thousand miles at most...) Chris Stevens Flying Machine Development Inc. ____________________________ o: 206.956.1993 c: 206.618.5437 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 17:16:38 -0700 From: "Jim Blair" Subject: fsj: Re: re: fan in rad I stuck in a used pump and fan for now. No money to do anything else! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2004 22:05:20 -0700 From: john meister Subject: Re: fsj: re: fan in rad I've never seen a motor move forward when the mounts are bad, unless the tranny mount is shot too... but even then the drivelines are kind of keeping things back.. I have sliced the upper rad house because of a bad mount, but it stayed in the general location. ;) john Chris Stevens wrote: > Are you sure that the problem isn't that the motor mounts are shot, > allowing engine to move enough (under load - not in neutral) that the > fan hits the radiator and breaks the pump housing & radiator? Unless the > fan hits something or the fan belt is waaay too tight, there should be > almost no load on the housing, so it would have to be extremely brittle > to break. (If there was enough load on the housing to break the casting, > the bearing would last only a few thousand miles at most...) > > Chris Stevens > Flying Machine Development Inc. > ____________________________ > > o: 206.956.1993 > c: 206.618.5437 > w: www.flyingmachine.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2004 22:47:08 -0700 From: john meister Subject: fsj: where's Ray? Ray, article on nanotubes... http://netscape.com.com/Reinventing+the+lightbulb,+with+nanotubes/2100-1103_2-5226906.html?part=netscape&subj=technews&tag=mynetscape :) john ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 16:40:21 -0500 From: Jeep Nut Subject: fsj: remote mirror switch Hi groupies, Had to open the door panel up on the Grand Waggie to replace the window track this week and at reassembly time the switch for the outside mirrors fell apart. Unfortunately it turns out that it isn't just a screw loose. The plastic is old, dry and brittle (duh) and it just crumbed. Pulled the one out of the door on the parts truck and it wouldn't work. Pulled it open and it has been real hot at some point and the plastic sockets where the contact strap fits are melted in a couple of spots and the contact strap hangs up. That's why the switch isn't working properly. It shows No Longer Manufactured and the MoPar parts locator shows no stock in any dealership anywhere according to the guy who checked it for me. Anyone have a mirror switch laying around you would part with? Or parts of one? May have to fab in a Cherokee switch or sumthin, but would rather like to keep the original. JeepNut - -- "Microsoft Certified Professionals are to the computing industry what McDonald Certified Food Specialists are to gourmet restaurants." -Michael Bacarella 00Mar15 - ---------------------------------------------------------- '87 Street Comanche #24/100 '88 Grand Wagoneer ...and they say there's only one... '92 Cherokee Laredo - ---------------------------------------------------------- Registered Linux user #287453 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 20:18:27 -0500 From: Jeep Nut Subject: fsj: head checks Hi all, Have pulled the 360 out of my parts truck and am prepping it for transplant. This motor was supposed to have been recently rebuilt but the guy I bought it from didn't have the details. Now to me a rebuild would be lower and upper ends but hey, everybody has their own interpretation of things. I want to check the heads at least superficially. I know I need to do compression checks on each of the cylinders. But what else should/can I do that doesn't require pulling the heads off? RE: the compression checks. The engine is on a stand now and if I recall, for one of the checks, you're supposed to crank the engine around a few times to pump up the compression checker and then see if it holds. hmm.... I'm thinking about remounting the starter and using my charger/starter to crank the engine over with all the plugs out of it. Is this completely stupid? Is it going to flop over on it's side when I crank it? ;-) Any input is welcome! Thanks! JeepNut - -- "Microsoft Certified Professionals are to the computing industry what McDonalds Certified Food Specialists are to gourmet restaurants." -Michael Bacarella 00Mar15 - ---------------------------------------------------------- '87 Street Comanche #24/100 '88 Grand Wagoneer ...and they say there's only one... '92 Cherokee Laredo - ---------------------------------------------------------- Registered Linux user #287453 ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #2164 **************************