From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Fri Sep 12 15:01:52 2008 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Friday, September 12 2008 Volume 01 : Number 3169 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: fsj: j-10 Re: fsj: Re: electric motors fsj: fuel tank skid plate / coffin Re: xj: RE: fsj: Re: [WJ-Grand] Amsoil RE: fsj: j-10 Re: fsj: Re: [db] electric motors RE: fsj: Re: [WJ-Grand] Amsoil RE: fsj: Re: electric motors Re: fsj: Re: electric motors RE: fsj: j-10 Re: fsj: Re: [db] electric motors fsj: Diesel options FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 17:14:14 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: fsj: j-10 most likely an NP208. they changed over to NP in 1980. john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Wed, 10 Sep 2008, Tesar Landon-R16884 wrote: # guess I'm gonna have to go look at this one.... # # http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/828758008.html # # what transfer case on 1980 with 4-spd, D20? # # - Landon # ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 17:18:08 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: fsj: Re: electric motors there is no reason to worry about it... the Mercedes transmissions have a small rear pump to keep fluid flowing over the output shaft bearings... all you need to do is put it in neutral, it won't hurt it and the parasitic drag will be no worse than a truck mirror. :) there is a reason I'm going with German engineering as part of this... things that the Germans figured out decades ago americans are still working on... of course things that americans solved decades ago the Germans are still clueless about. ;) ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Wed, 10 Sep 2008, Neal Hoover wrote: # the rear locking hubs would make it a bit of a hassle to switch from # electric mode to conventional mode while driving. ;) # # Neal A. Hoover # Project '76 J-10 # Project '96 XJ # http://community.webshots.com/user/proj96xj # # # ----- Original Message ----- # From: "Jim Blair" # To: "Neal Hoover" ; "local Jeep list" # # Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 1:03 PM # Subject: RE: fsj: Re: electric motors # # # # NP208 will allow you to do that. If it's in 2wd, the front driveshaft is # freewheeling. Part of why I was looking into doing that with mine, but lack # of money and time has been keeping me from following through (especially # since I'm working 12 hour days now 6 days a week) Having locking hubs on the # rear axle (MUCH easier to do with full floaters) will enable you not to turn # the other mass of axles and diff at the same time. # # Jim Blair, Lynnwood, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10 # # # > From: proj96xj-at-bellsouth.net # > To: john-at-wagoneers.com; fsj-at-digest.net # > Subject: fsj: Re: electric motors # > Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 06:53:01 -0400 # > # > you'd also have to have a method of disengaging one system while the other # > system is operational. you don't want to drive the internals of that # tranny # > by the rear wheels whilst trucking around on electrical power. # > # > Neal A. Hoover # > Project '76 J-10 # > Project '96 XJ # > http://community.webshots.com/user/proj96xj # > # # # _________________________________________________________________ # Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn ^S10 hidden secrets^T from Jamie. # http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 # ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 18:45:52 -0600 From: Troy Phagan Subject: fsj: fuel tank skid plate / coffin Hi all... I picked up some stainless fuel tank straps, but I still really need a usable fuel tank skid plate / "coffin" for my 1982 wagon. My plastic tank is sound, I just need everything that goes around it. I have made some junkyard inquiries, but I am not having any luck. I am not real keen on the aerotank solutions, either. It seems that someone is developing a stainless replacement, but it is not actually available yet. Thanks much to all.... - -- - -Troy Troy Phagan C.R.P. 4x4 & Auto Accessories 2102 9th ST Greeley, CO 80631 970-351-8603 fax: 970-353-3066 tsp-at-crptruck.com www.crptruck.com www.smilingcharleys.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 20:21:29 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: xj: RE: fsj: Re: [WJ-Grand] Amsoil you make a good point... changing the filter is a recommended practice with amsoil, about once a year... the benefit of the synthetic is it holds more in suspension than does dino oil... also, it's formulated without all the extra additives to have good thermal properties so it doesn't break down over time... basic dino oil has issues under stress, synthetics don't. Detergent is an additive because the oil was leaving deposits, ash, varnish and such as the volatile elements evoporated or cooked off... adding additives to used dino oil is like adding fresh coffee grounds to your old grounds and expecting good coffee... it'll be ok, but it won't be the same... I think they call that Navy coffee... I don't know, I was in the Army, we didn't reuse our grounds. ;) dino oil can be reprocessed and recycled, it's cleaned in a centrifuge and then an additive package is added back in... many governments, including the military use this oil, but it's durability and balance isn't as good and I wouldn't recommend it... it's fine for burning in a Diesel as fuel though. ;) a good dino oil of the right viscosity, meaning a straight weight, properly filtered and monitored for proper ph balance could indeed go longer than the recommended amount, in fact, that's what mercedes is probably doing with their newer rigs, monitoring the oil quality... but synthetics of any brand are better from the start than dino oil... less volatiles to boil off, less impurities to deal with and a common molecular size so filtration is more effective, and you have a natural electrical charge to the oil to make it cling to the surfaces providing enhanced fricition reduction and reduced oxidation/rust of the engine... also better thermal transfer... synthetics are an absolute and total no-brainer, anyone saying dino oil is better has some serious reading to do, has a major mental flaw or deficiency or is listening to an ill-informed idiot who thinks that synthetics cause oil leaks and is too thin. :) there have been bad synthetics made early on... they aren't around any more... I only know amsoil, so I can't speak about other brands, but basic logic tells me that they will still be better than any known dino or mineral oil. john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Wed, 10 Sep 2008, Ed Kummel wrote: # Not to make this a "synthetic oil" list, I do have a question. # you state the main benefit of synth oils (see below for copied excerpt) # If you do use synth oil and drive your vehicle beyond the recommended 3kmiles that dino oil says, what about the oil filter? Should this be changed at the regular 3kmile intervals? I would think that the oil is accumulating the same amount of debris as regular dino oil, so the filter should be getting pretty well clogged at 20k miles! # And what about oil detergents? I read (somewhere) that not only does the oil viscosity break down over time/use, but the oil detergents become useless in 3kmiles. In fact, I remember reading (again, somewhere) that if you can put the additives back into your crankcase oil, dino oil should be good for 6-10k miles. # Any thoughts? # Ed # web/gadget guru # # ------------------------------------------------------------------------ # Never mind that we just had an incredibly cold winter in North America and huge record snowfalls across the continent. As Al Gore said to a bunch of us the other day, these record cold spells and record snowfalls are actually caused by global warming. To which Jerry York replied, 'Jeez then I guess we better stop this global warming before we all f**king freeze to death, eh?' # # - 'Fake' Steve Jobs 3/24/08 blog entry # # --- On Wed, 9/10/08, john wrote: # # From: john # Subject: xj: RE: fsj: Re: [WJ-Grand] Amsoil # To: "Jim Blair" # Cc: "xj-list" , "diesel-benz list" , "full size jeep list" # Date: Wednesday, September 10, 2008, 3:03 PM # # the main benefit of amsoil is the extended oil drain... 35,000 miles! # I've gone over 20,000 miles on both gas and Diesel, and had oil analysis # confirm that I could have gone longer!!! # # saving money is the motivation... ease of maintenance another... and protection # against failure of cooling or lube systems is another... then there is the # "green" factor... saving oil and fuel... it's ALL good! # # john # # ----- # ------------------------------------------------------------------------- # Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold # SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 # SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf # http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html # ------------------------------------------------------------------------- # # # On Wed, 10 Sep 2008, Jim Blair wrote: # # # # # Originally Mobil 1 was a true synthetic, but after Castrol came out with the # modified Hydrocarbon from natural base oil, there was a lawsuit about the # definition of synthetic. Mobil lost (there was a huge writeup on the lawsuit # online back in '99) and they switched to the same modified oil base, which # is why the cost of synthetic oil dropped so drastically in the past few years. # # Amsoil is one of only a handful of true synthetic oils still being # produced. # # # # Jim Blair, Lynnwood, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10 # # # ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 21:57:39 -0700 From: Jim Blair Subject: RE: fsj: j-10 At least it's still likely to be a T18 (4:1 first gear). If the front driveshaft is on the pass side, it may be a straggler '79 with T18A (6:1 first gear) and D20. Jim Blair, Lynnwood, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10 > Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 17:14:14 -0700 > From: john-at-wagoneers.com > To: landon.tesar-at-freescale.com > CC: fsj-digest-at-digest.net > Subject: Re: fsj: j-10 > > most likely an NP208. they changed over to NP in 1980. > > john > > ----- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf > http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > On Wed, 10 Sep 2008, Tesar Landon-R16884 wrote: > > # guess I'm gonna have to go look at this one.... > # > # http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/828758008.html > # > # what transfer case on 1980 with 4-spd, D20? > # > # - Landon > # _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 22:03:45 -0700 From: Jim Blair Subject: Re: fsj: Re: [db] electric motors Did you already get them home? I have a long trailer that is just a bare frame about that long (was a travel trailer) From: john Subject: fsj: Re: [db] electric motors ah yes, well then, come on over I need help upgrading the snohomish monster garage, picked up five free 24' long trusses!!! :) and it's NOT raining today! yee haw... but first, will those wj seats fit in my 124 series 300D? :) john _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 22:16:06 -0700 From: Jim Blair Subject: RE: fsj: Re: [WJ-Grand] Amsoil From http://www.f150online.com/forums/engine/64533-castrol-syntec-vs-mobil-1-a.html (There is more on that page) msparks Senior Member Location: Clarksville, Tennessee There are at least 4 types of base stocks BASE OIL CLASSIFICATION Before reviewing how base oil is manufactured, we should explain the American Petroleum Institute^Rs (API) Base Oil Classification system. The API classifies base oils into five major groups, as shown below: API Base Oil Characteristics Manufacturing Group Sulphur Saturates Viscosity Index Method Wt, % Wt, % VI I> 0.03 < 90 80-119 Solvent Refined II < 0.03> 90 80-119 Hydroprocessed III < 0.03> 90 120 + Severely Hydroprocessed IV Polyalpha Olefins (PAOs) Oligomerization V Other Base Oils Various Group I, or conventional base oils manufactured by Solvent Refining, make up most of the base oil produced in the world today. Containing more than 0.03 wt % Sulphur and less than 90 wt % Saturates, they are less pure than Hydroprocessed or Synthetic base oils. Group II and III base oils are manufactured by what the API calls Hydropro-cessing or Severe Hydroprocessing. These are just other names for Petro-Canada^Rs HT Severe Hydrocracking process. With Sulphur contents of less than 0.03 wt % and Saturates contents of more than 90 wt %, they are more pure than Group I base oils. The Hydrocracking process: Several different reactions occur in this process, the principal ones being: ^U Removal of polar compounds, containing sulphur, nitrogen and oxygen ^U Conversion of aromatic hydrocarbons to saturated cyclic hydrocarbons ^U Breaking up of heavy polycyclo-paraffins to lighter saturated hydrocarbons These reactions take place at temperatures as high as 4000C , pressures around 3000 psi and in the presence of a catalyst. The hydrocarbon molecules that are formed are very stable and this makes them ideal for use as lubricant base oils. They are classified by the API as Group II base oils. There are two stages in the Petro-Canada Hydrocracking process. The first one removes unwanted polar compounds and converts the aromatic compo-nents to saturated hydrocarbons. After separation into desired viscosity grades by vacuum distillation, batches of waxy lube base oil are chill dewaxed. These are then passed through a second high pressure hydro-treater for additional saturation. This final step maximizes base oil stability, by removing the last traces of aromatic and polar molecules. I would say that Syntec is a good oil, but at what cost? Surely not equal to the price of mobil1 or Amsoil, but it costs half as much to make! Syntec is probably the best conventional oil on the market, your truck should perform just fine for hundreds of thousands of miles, And yes it is okay to switch. Since all oils nowaday's are compatible, both synthetic and conventional. And yet more: http://www.syntheticsbestoil.com/mobil.htm http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 22:21:37 -0700 From: Jim Blair Subject: RE: fsj: Re: electric motors Good point. There are different kinds of hubs. One way over running hubs would freewheel if the wheel turns faster than the axle is spinning (they used those on the front of F350s with diesels) That way the diff and rest of the rear wheel drivetrain wouldn't be spinning, freeing up some power to the front. Jim Blair, Lynnwood, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10 > From: proj96xj-at-bellsouth.net > To: fsj-at-digest.net > Subject: Re: fsj: Re: electric motors > Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 19:22:26 -0400 > > the rear locking hubs would make it a bit of a hassle to switch from > electric mode to conventional mode while driving. ;) > > Neal A. Hoover > Project '76 J-10 > Project '96 XJ > http://community.webshots.com/user/proj96xj _________________________________________________________________ Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550 F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 06:32:03 -0400 From: "Neal Hoover" Subject: Re: fsj: Re: electric motors nifty. Neal A. Hoover Project '76 J-10 Project '96 XJ http://community.webshots.com/user/proj96xj - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Blair" To: "Neal Hoover" ; "local Jeep list" Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 1:21 AM Subject: RE: fsj: Re: electric motors > Good point. There are different kinds of hubs. One way over running hubs would > freewheel if the wheel turns faster than the axle is spinning (they used those > on the front of F350s with diesels) That way the diff and rest of the rear > wheel drivetrain wouldn't be spinning, freeing up some power to the front. > > Jim Blair, Lynnwood, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10 > > > > From: proj96xj-at-bellsouth.net > > To: fsj-at-digest.net > > Subject: Re: fsj: Re: electric motors > > Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 19:22:26 -0400 > > > > the rear locking hubs would make it a bit of a hassle to switch from > > electric mode to conventional mode while driving. ;) > > > > Neal A. Hoover > > Project '76 J-10 > > Project '96 XJ > > http://community.webshots.com/user/proj96xj > _________________________________________________________________ > Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live. > http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550 > F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 06:40:23 -0700 From: "Tesar Landon-R16884" Subject: RE: fsj: j-10 Thanks, all. I'm looking forward to shifting gears again. - - L ________________________________ From: Jim Blair [mailto:carnuck-at-hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 11:58 PM To: john; Tesar Landon-R16884 Cc: fsj-digest-at-digest.net Subject: RE: fsj: j-10 At least it's still likely to be a T18 (4:1 first gear). If the front driveshaft is on the pass side, it may be a straggler '79 with T18A (6:1 first gear) and D20. Jim Blair, Lynnwood, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10 > Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 17:14:14 -0700 > From: john-at-wagoneers.com > To: landon.tesar-at-freescale.com > CC: fsj-digest-at-digest.net > Subject: Re: fsj: j-10 > > most likely an NP208. they changed over to NP in 1980. > > john > > ----- > - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ - - > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf > http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html > - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ - - > > > On Wed, 10 Sep 2008, Tesar Landon-R16884 wrote: > > # guess I'm gonna have to go look at this one.... > # > # http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/828758008.html > # > # what transfer case on 1980 with 4-spd, D20? > # > # - Landon > # ________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. See Now ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 07:28:03 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: fsj: Re: [db] electric motors borrowed my neighbor's equipment trailer we tore down part of the riif yesterday... hope to have the trusses up by Saturday. you and any on the list are welcome to come over and asist. :) john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Wed, 10 Sep 2008, Jim Blair wrote: # Did you already get them home? I have a long trailer that is just a bare frame # about that long (was a travel trailer) # # # From: john # Subject: fsj: Re: [db] electric motors # # ah yes, well then, come on over I need help upgrading the snohomish monster # garage, # picked up five free 24' long trusses!!! :) and it's NOT raining today! # # yee haw... # # but first, will those wj seats fit in my 124 series 300D? :) # # john # _________________________________________________________________ # See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of # your life. # http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/ # ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 15:01:05 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: fsj: Diesel options any Diesel Powered LHD Grand Cherokees of the WJ variety in my price range over there? ;) '99 - '04... we like our WJ... I think we're going to keep it... thought we were going to get down to two cars... but my wife won't drive the blazer and I'd prefer to drive the benz, but drive the blazer so she doesn't drive the WJ and run up a large gas bill... :) I'm not in love with the Blazer, but it does what I want it to do... does all of what I want... it's what I was trying to do with the Grand Wagoneer, it just lacks style, class and the same feel... thought about maybe a BMW 524td, but they have timing belts and head issues and then I'd have two nice German Diesel sedans that couldn't pull my trailer or get out of the drive in the winter... :) this weekend, rebuilding the carport... http://wagoneers.com/fotos/2008/09-Sep-12-carport-rebuild/ALL.html when that's done, will put the passenger side WJ seat in the Blazer, then start figuring out a WVO heater setup on the Blazer to run straight filtered waste oil... not fond of the smell of BioDiesel before it's burned, not sure what it is I'm smelling, methanol or lye or what.... ;) john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Fri, 12 Sep 2008, Stephen Rigley wrote: # yeah, the VM, hardy unit but this one wasn't looked after previously :-( # Got home, picked up my tools and headed back to the Heep, it was popped push # rod. # Think I found the source of my leak (crack in the cam cover, badly patched # previously) AND my starting issues too (melted glow plug connectors).. so # all in all.. it was a positive outcome ;-) # I'd better go and order some pushrods while I think of it.. # Cheers, # Steve # # On Fri, Sep 12, 2008 at 5:49 PM, john wrote: # # > this is the VM motor? # > # > ----- # > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- # > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold # > SAVE fuel: use synthetics: http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 # > SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf # > http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html # > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- # > # > # > On Fri, 12 Sep 2008, Stephen Rigley wrote: # > # > # Thanks for that John, looks like it'll have to wait now though.. its # > only # > # running on 3 cylinders since about 5 minutes ago :-( I reckon either # > its # > # lost compression in the cylinder or one of the push rods has popped out # > of # > # its rocker again.. * sigh * # > # # > # On Fri, Sep 12, 2008 at 5:18 PM, john wrote: # > # # > # > http://wagoneers.com/XJ/tech/OldManEmu/ome-lw.html # > # > # > # > ----- # > # > # > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- # > # > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold # > # > SAVE fuel: use synthetics: # > http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 # > # > SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf # > # > http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html # > # > # > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- # > # > # > # > # > # > On Fri, 12 Sep 2008, Stephen Rigley wrote: # > # > # > # > # Think I did, can't find the link now.. do you have it handy? # > # > # Thanks # > # > # Steve # > # > # # > # > # On Fri, Sep 12, 2008 at 3:39 PM, john wrote: # > # > # # > # > # > shocks should be easy... never had any break off.... especially # > # > # > without rust... did you see the pictures of the OME install? # > # > # > # > # > # > john # > # > # > # > # > # > ----- # > # > # > # > # > # > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- # > # > # > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they # > mold # > # > # > SAVE fuel: use synthetics: # > # > http://www.AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 # > # > # > SAVE power: use LINUX: http://johnmeister.com/tmcp.pdf # > # > # > http://wagoneers.com http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html # > # > # > # > # > # > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- # > # > # > # > # > # > # > # > # > On Fri, 12 Sep 2008, Stephen Rigley wrote: # > # > # > # > # > # > # Hi, # > # > # > # I've a couple of new Gabriel shocks staring at me for the last # > few # > # > weeks # > # > # > at # > # > # > # home.. weather looks good for the weekend so I thought I might # > put # > # > them # > # > # > in # > # > # > # (yes, I'm a glutton for punishment). # > # > # > # So, should I go bolt shopping now? I read that the upper shock # > # > bolts are # > # > # > # almost guaranteed to snap off on me.. any truth to it? Its # > pretty # > # > clean # > # > # > up # > # > # > # there, no rust. # > # > # > # # > # > # > # Steve # > # > # > # # > # > # # > # # ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #3169 **************************