From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Thu Aug 13 21:31:59 2009 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Friday, August 14 2009 Volume 01 : Number 3402 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: RE: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation Re: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation Re: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation Re: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation fsj: get the popcorn ready... (Diesel dreamin') RE: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation RE: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation RE: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 06:57:46 +0000 From: Michel Balea Subject: RE: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation Thank you.... I think that would crush my chest, the brain is already gone .... but using a floor jack w a transmission attachment, after putting the wagoneer on 8x8 blocks seems doable. I need to find the vent tube. I was doing some experimentation on the 85 and found a vent tube behind the engine w a snorkel configuration.... but there was too much pine needles mixed w oil.... then I ran out of gloves..... so I could not go on an mess up the dinner preparation. Michel > To: fsj-digest-at-digest.net > Subject: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation > Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 02:36:59 -0400 > From: wallacem7-at-aol.com > > I have a system that has worked fairly well for New Process T-case removal and installation. I have used it on the NP219 on my Wagoneer and the NP 242 on my Dakota. I wouldn't recommend it for a cast iron case like a Dana 20 or an NP 203. > > > > It takes me about an hour and fifteen minutes to pull the T-case from the Wag, a little longer on the Dakota. This is what I do. I pull the driveshafts...I'll typically remove them from the truck entirely, pull the linkages, the wires, the speedo cable and any vent tubes. I will then pull the top two bolts that hold the t-case to the transmission, then the bottom two and then the side two. I will lie under the truck with my head under the transmission, and my feet under the rear axle and I will just pull it off and drop it on my chest. My head is out of the way to minimise the risk of inadvertantly crushing my brain. To put it back in I'll set it on my chest, slide under the truck and do it in reverse. It works pretty well for me. That being said i am reasonably strong. > > > > Mark Wallace > > 81 Wag > > > > ? _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live^Y: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=PID23384::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:NF_BR_syn c:082009 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 00:15:11 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation I've used this same technique on transmission... tranny jacks never work well enough... ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://creationwiki.org http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Thu, 13 Aug 2009, wallacem7-at-aol.com wrote: # I have a system that has worked fairly well for New Process T-case removal and installation. I have used it on the NP219 on my Wagoneer and the NP 242 on my Dakota. I wouldn't recommend it for a cast iron case like a Dana 20 or an NP 203. # # # # It takes me about an hour and fifteen minutes to pull the T-case from the Wag, a little longer on the Dakota. This is what I do. I pull the driveshafts...I'll typically remove them from the truck entirely, pull the linkages, the wires, the speedo cable and any vent tubes. I will then pull the top two bolts that hold the t-case to the transmission, then the bottom two and then the side two. I will lie under the truck with my head under the transmission, and my feet under the rear axle and I will just pull it off and drop it on my chest. My head is out of the way to minimise the risk of inadvertantly crushing my brain. To put it back in I'll set it on my chest, slide under the truck and do it in reverse. It works pretty well for me. That being said i am reasonably strong. # # # # Mark Wallace # # 81 Wag # # # # ? # ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 00:26:43 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation yep, dropped more than one... have a tranny jack and it's miserable to use, even on smooth concrete... when I swapped the transfer case in Omega I tried to use my trans jack and ended up herc'ing it in... john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://creationwiki.org http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Thu, 13 Aug 2009, wallacem7-at-aol.com wrote: # Yes...jacks are next to impossible to get at the right angle. You could theoretically tip the t-case or the trans, but then it slips off and you are back to square 1. # ------Original Message------ # From: john # To: wallacem7-at-aol.com # Cc: fsj-digest-at-digest.net # Subject: Re: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation # Sent: Aug 13, 2009 1:15 AM # # I've used this same technique on transmission... tranny jacks # never work well enough... # # # # ----- # ------------------------------------------------------------------------ # Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold # http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://creationwiki.org # http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us # ------------------------------------------------------------------------ # # # On Thu, 13 Aug 2009, wallacem7-at-aol.com wrote: # # # I have a system that has worked fairly well for New Process T-case removal and installation. I have used it on the NP219 on my Wagoneer and the NP 242 on my Dakota. I wouldn't recommend it for a cast iron case like a Dana 20 or an NP 203. # # # # # # # # It takes me about an hour and fifteen minutes to pull the T-case from the Wag, a little longer on the Dakota. This is what I do. I pull the driveshafts...I'll typically remove them from the truck entirely, pull the linkages, the wires, the speedo cable and any vent tubes. I will then pull the top two bolts that hold the t-case to the transmission, then the bottom two and then the side two. I will lie under the truck with my head under the transmission, and my feet under the rear axle and I will just pull it off and drop it on my chest. My head is out of the way to minimise the risk of inadvertantly crushing my brain. To put it back in I'll set it on my chest, slide under the truck and do it in reverse. It works pretty well for me. That being said i am reasonably strong. # # # # # # # # Mark Wallace # # # # 81 Wag # # # # # # # # ? # # # # # Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry # ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 14:22:36 -0400 From: wallacem7-at-aol.com Subject: Re: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation If I recall the vent tube is in the back of the transfer case, runs up the tunnel, and then ends on the dash panel (firewall if you are outside detroit). My gas tank is out right now so if you want I can snap a few pics. It might have terminated at the Charcoal canisterB Also with as rusty as my Wag is I actually have kept if fairly clean. My standard MO is to pull the t-case one evening, rebuild it the next, and then put it back in the third evening. I'll be leisurely about the whole thing...drink my coffee and listen to my music while I am working. B I'll typically leave the truck on the ground to pull the t-case, my arms aren't long enough to reach up that high and then if I get sidetracked by some other life event it's not too hard to move the car (or if I have to shove it out of the shop for some other project). With a transmission I'll put the truck on Jack stands. I am actually contemplating putting my Wag up on jack standsB to drop the frame out from under the body rather than lifting the body off the frame. I think that will be a winter job so that I can wear all my heavy stuff for sandblasting, grinding, and welding and be comfortable. Mark Wallace - -----Original Message----- From: Michel Balea To: wallacem7-at-aol.com; fsjdigest digest Sent: Thu, Aug 13, 2009 12:57 am Subject: RE: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation Thank you.... I think that would crush my chest, the brain is already gone .... but using a floor jack w a transmission attachment, after putting the wagoneer on 8x8 blocks seems doable. I need to find the vent tube. I was doing some experimentation on the 85 and found a vent tube behind the engine w a snorkel configuration.... but there was too much pine needles mixed w oil.... then I ran out of gloves..... so I could not go on an mess up the dinner preparation. Michel > To: fsj-digest-at-digest.net > Subject: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation > Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 02:36:59 -0400 > From: wallacem7-at-aol.com > > I have a system that has worked fairly well for New Process T-case removal and installation. I have used it on the NP219 on my Wagoneer and the NP 242 on my Dakota. I wouldn't recommend it for a cast iron case like a Dana 20 or an NP 203. > > > > It takes me about an hour and fifteen minutes to pull the T-case from the Wag, a little longer on the Dakota. This is what I do. I pull the driveshafts...I'll typically remove them from the truck entirely, pull the linkages, the wires, the speedo cable and any vent tubes. I will then pull the top two bolts that hold the t-case to the transmission, then the bottom two and then the side two. I will lie under the truck with my head under the transmission, and my feet under the rear axle and I will just pull it off and drop it on my chest. My head is out of the way to minimise the risk of inadvertantly crushing my bra in. To put it back in I'll set it on my chest, slide under the truck and do it in reverse. It works pretty well for me. That being said i am reasonably strong. > > > > Mark Wallace > > 81 Wag > > > > ? Windows Liveb^D": Keep your life in sync. Check it out. = ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 13:22:16 -0700 (PDT) From: diesel john Subject: fsj: get the popcorn ready... (Diesel dreamin') RE: building the ultimate daily driver Diesel Jeep... curtis and I had a meeting of the minds... came up with a plan that will keep the popcorn fresh for weeks... background: - --------------------- - superdawg (my '83 j10 stepside) has been under full frame off resto since about 2001... considered a variety of engines and mods... bought an '80 j10 last year for the 4.2 and axles for superdawg - the '86 cj-10a (tug) was purchased last year for the SD33 and auto... been getting a solid 18mpg as a daily driver on the low mileage and proven Diesel drivetrain... not exactly fast at 38 seconds in 0 to 60, but will cruise at 70mph... - purchased a used SD33T... injection pump no good... can't use until fixed... found another... but not out of the scout yet... money tight right now... time to fix and get setup limited... will postpone the SD33T setup... - the cj-10a came with either a 4.2 or a SD33 from the factory. Using the 4.2 originally intended for superdawg keeps it in a stock configuration and leaves me with a known good spare drivetrain for superdawg! PLAN: - --------------------- - drive the tug down to Centralia in September, pull the SD33/TF727 (with known good trans and shift kit) and use it in Superdawg with the plan of upgrading to a good SD33T in the future for 20% power/economy improvement. while the body is off the frame getting the SD33 drivetrain in makes sense... - put the 4.2/t176 or t5 into the tug immediately (need a clutch pedal setup for the cj-10a) and drive it home... (will stay down there a couple of days). The tug has 3.31 gears and with the 4.2 should be a lot of fun, and will be more easily sold with the 4.2... :) I'm concerned I may have too much fun with it setup like this and try to keep it... :) - curtis will finish up superdawg with the proven Diesel drivetrain - maybe during Christmas john will swap in the SD33T if one is running. :) The next few weeks are consumed by my daughter's wedding, so I'll be heading down to Centralia on 5 Sept with coveralls to start the swaps... :) meanwhile curtis is sanding, priming, painting and reassembling the J10 stepside... FINAL CONFIGURATIONS: - ---------------------------- - - 1986 CJ-10A - 4.2/T-176 or T-5/np208 3.31 gears 235r75/15 - for sale - - 1983 J10 stepside - SD33/TF727/NP208 3.54 gears 235r75/15 - with planned swap to SD33T will have leather seats from an XJ or WJ, air conditioning (stock), power windows and door locks (from '86 GW) and a sunroof from a '92 XJ. painted the same color as my '99 WJ. :) - - 1980 J10 - remains to curtis, along with the T5 if we use the 176 in the tug. - - T19/Dana 300 from scout - For sale (now) - - adapaters for T18/19 for SD33/t - for sale - - TF727 from scout - spare - - SD33 from tug after SD33T swap - spare. - - extra SD33T injection pumps - spares. The 3.54's with 235s in the J10 should improve in town performance a bit and possibly help economy... if it doesn't work out or freeway speeds are hard to maintain (not likely) then I can install larger tires. Down the road I could always upgrade the tf727 to one of those Big Block TF/519's or whatever the overdrive version of the 727 is... The tug with the 4.2 and manual trans and 3.31s should be an absolute blast to drive... should get reasonable mileage as well... and be a lot easier to sell as most folks buying bobtails aren't likely to be all that Diesel saavy... I know, there's a few out there, but they already own CJ-10As. ;) keep the popcorn fresh, go easy on the salt, ya'll gotta watch your blood pressure. ;) with this plan I hope to keep our '99 WJ... :) john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://creationwiki.org http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 22:03:42 +0000 From: Michel Balea Subject: RE: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation Mark, A few pictures are always useful. Just finished replacing the passenger exhaust manifold on the 85project. The bolts have been soaked for over 3 months, and "sili kroil" was really the one that broke the rust loose, not a single broken bolt. I even managed to save on removing parts and not removing the heater box -because of the A/C- and slid the manifold from under between the frame and the engine. Michel 74wag 85Gwag > From: wallacem7 > If I recall the vent tube is in the back of the transfer case, runs up the > tunnel, and then ends on the dash panel (firewall if you are outside detroit). > My gas tank is out right now so if you want I can snap a few pics. It might > have terminated at the Charcoal canisterB Also with as rusty as my Wag is I > actually have kept if fairly clean. > > > My standard MO is to pull the t-case one evening, rebuild it the next, and > then put it back in the third evening. I'll be leisurely about the whole > thing...drink my coffee and listen to my music while I am working. B > > > > I'll typically leave the truck on the ground to pull the t-case, my arms > aren't long enough to reach up that high and then if I get sidetracked by some > other life event it's not too hard to move the car (or if I have to shove it > out of the shop for some other project). With a transmission I'll put the > truck on Jack stands. I am actually contemplating putting my Wag up on jack > standsB to drop the frame out from under the body rather than lifting the > body off the frame. I think that will be a winter job so that I can wear all > my heavy stuff for sandblasting, grinding, and welding and be comfortable. > > > Mark Wallace > > -----Original Message----- > From: Michel Balea > To: wallacem7-at-aol.com; fsjdigest digest > Sent: Thu, Aug 13, 2009 12:57 am > Subject: RE: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation > > > > Thank you.... > > I think that would crush > my chest, the brain is already gone .... but using a floor jack w a > transmission attachment, after putting the wagoneer on 8x8 blocks seems > doable. I need to find the vent tube. I was doing some experimentation on the > 85 and found a vent tube behind the engine w a snorkel configuration.... but > there was too much pine needles mixed w oil.... then I ran out of gloves..... > so I could not go on an mess up the dinner preparation. > > Michel > > > To: fsj-digest-at-digest.net > > Subject: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation > > Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 02:36:59 -0400 > > From: wallacem7-at-aol.com > > > > I have a system that has worked fairly well for New Process T-case removal > and installation. I have used it on the NP219 on my Wagoneer and the NP 242 on > my Dakota. I wouldn't recommend it for a cast iron case like a Dana 20 or an > NP 203. > > > > > > > > It takes me about an hour and fifteen minutes to pull the T-case from the > Wag, a little longer on the Dakota. This is what I do. I pull the > driveshafts...I'll typically remove them from the truck entirely, pull the > linkages, the wires, the speedo cable and any vent tubes. I will then pull the > top two bolts that hold the t-case to the transmission, then the bottom two > and then the side two. I will lie under the truck with my head under the > transmission, and my feet under the rear axle and I will just pull it off and > drop it on my chest. My head is out of the way to minimise the risk of > inadvertantly crushing my bra > in. To put it back in I'll set it on my chest, slide under the truck and do it > in reverse. It works pretty well for me. That being said i am reasonably > strong. > > > > > > > > Mark Wallace > > > > 81 Wag > > > > > > > > ? > > Windows Liveb^D": Keep your life in sync. Check it out. = _________________________________________________________________ Express your personality in color! Preview and select themes for Hotmail.. http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/LearnMore/personalize.aspx?ocid=PID23391:: T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HYGN_express:082009 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 16:14:52 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: RE: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation it's hard to take pictures when you have a transfer case on your chest... :) ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://creationwiki.org http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Thu, 13 Aug 2009, Michel Balea wrote: # Mark, # # A few pictures are always useful. # Just finished replacing the passenger exhaust manifold on the 85project. The # bolts have been soaked for over 3 months, and "sili kroil" was really the one # that broke the rust loose, not a single broken bolt. I even managed to save on # removing parts and not removing the heater box -because of the A/C- and slid # the manifold from under between the frame and the engine. # # Michel # 74wag # 85Gwag # # > From: wallacem7 # # > If I recall the vent tube is in the back of the transfer case, runs up the # > tunnel, and then ends on the dash panel (firewall if you are outside # detroit). # > My gas tank is out right now so if you want I can snap a few pics. It might # > have terminated at the Charcoal canisterB Also with as rusty as my Wag is I # > actually have kept if fairly clean. # > # > # > My standard MO is to pull the t-case one evening, rebuild it the next, and # > then put it back in the third evening. I'll be leisurely about the whole # > thing...drink my coffee and listen to my music while I am working. B # > # > # > # > I'll typically leave the truck on the ground to pull the t-case, my arms # > aren't long enough to reach up that high and then if I get sidetracked by # some # > other life event it's not too hard to move the car (or if I have to shove # it # > out of the shop for some other project). With a transmission I'll put the # > truck on Jack stands. I am actually contemplating putting my Wag up on jack # > standsB to drop the frame out from under the body rather than lifting the # > body off the frame. I think that will be a winter job so that I can wear # all # > my heavy stuff for sandblasting, grinding, and welding and be comfortable. # > # > # > Mark Wallace # > # > -----Original Message----- # > From: Michel Balea # > To: wallacem7-at-aol.com; fsjdigest digest # > Sent: Thu, Aug 13, 2009 12:57 am # > Subject: RE: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation # > # > # > # > Thank you.... # > # > I think that would crush # > my chest, the brain is already gone .... but using a floor jack w a # > transmission attachment, after putting the wagoneer on 8x8 blocks seems # > doable. I need to find the vent tube. I was doing some experimentation on # the # > 85 and found a vent tube behind the engine w a snorkel configuration.... # but # > there was too much pine needles mixed w oil.... then I ran out of # gloves..... # > so I could not go on an mess up the dinner preparation. # > # > Michel # > # > > To: fsj-digest-at-digest.net # > > Subject: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation # > > Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 02:36:59 -0400 # > > From: wallacem7-at-aol.com # > > # > > I have a system that has worked fairly well for New Process T-case # removal # > and installation. I have used it on the NP219 on my Wagoneer and the NP 242 # on # > my Dakota. I wouldn't recommend it for a cast iron case like a Dana 20 or # an # > NP 203. # > > # > > # > > # > > It takes me about an hour and fifteen minutes to pull the T-case from the # > Wag, a little longer on the Dakota. This is what I do. I pull the # > driveshafts...I'll typically remove them from the truck entirely, pull the # > linkages, the wires, the speedo cable and any vent tubes. I will then pull # the # > top two bolts that hold the t-case to the transmission, then the bottom two # > and then the side two. I will lie under the truck with my head under the # > transmission, and my feet under the rear axle and I will just pull it off # and # > drop it on my chest. My head is out of the way to minimise the risk of # > inadvertantly crushing my bra # > in. To put it back in I'll set it on my chest, slide under the truck and do # it # > in reverse. It works pretty well for me. That being said i am reasonably # > strong. # > > # > > # > > # > > Mark Wallace # > > # > > 81 Wag # > > # > > # > > # > > ? # > # > Windows Liveb^D": Keep your life in sync. Check it out. = # # _________________________________________________________________ # Express your personality in color! Preview and select themes for Hotmail.. # http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/LearnMore/personalize.aspx?ocid=PID23391:: # T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HYGN_express:082009 # ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 21:29:58 -0700 From: Jim Blair Subject: RE: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation I use the Herc method most of the time, but when I rolled my truck and had a broken rib, I used a comealong across the frame to cinch up the NP208J. Jim Blair, Lynnwood, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10 - ---------------------------------------- > Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 00:26:43 -0700 > From: john-at-wagoneers.com > To: wallacem7-at-aol.com > CC: fsj-at-digest.net > Subject: Re: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation > > yep, dropped more than one... have a tranny jack and it's miserable > to use, even on smooth concrete... > > when I swapped the transfer case in Omega I tried to use my trans jack > and ended up herc'ing it in... > > john > > > > ----- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://creationwiki.org > http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > On Thu, 13 Aug 2009, wallacem7-at-aol.com wrote: > > # Yes...jacks are next to impossible to get at the right angle. You could theoretically tip the t-case or the trans, but then it slips off and you are back to square 1. > # ------Original Message------ > # From: john > # To: wallacem7-at-aol.com > # Cc: fsj-digest-at-digest.net > # Subject: Re: fsj: New Process T-case removal and installation > # Sent: Aug 13, 2009 1:15 AM > # > # I've used this same technique on transmission... tranny jacks > # never work well enough... > # > # > # > # ----- > # ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > # Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > # http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://creationwiki.org > # http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us > # ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > # > # > # On Thu, 13 Aug 2009, wallacem7-at-aol.com wrote: > # > # # I have a system that has worked fairly well for New Process T-case removal and installation. I have used it on the NP219 on my Wagoneer and the NP 242 on my Dakota. I wouldn't recommend it for a cast iron case like a Dana 20 or an NP 203. > # # > # # > # # > # # It takes me about an hour and fifteen minutes to pull the T-case from the Wag, a little longer on the Dakota. This is what I do. I pull the driveshafts...I'll typically remove them from the truck entirely, pull the linkages, the wires, the speedo cable and any vent tubes. I will then pull the top two bolts that hold the t-case to the transmission, then the bottom two and then the side two. I will lie under the truck with my head under the transmission, and my feet under the rear axle and I will just pull it off and drop it on my chest. My head is out of the way to minimise the risk of inadvertantly crushing my brain. To put it back in I'll set it on my chest, slide under the truck and do it in reverse. It works pretty well for me. That being said i am reasonably strong. > # # > # # > # # > # # Mark Wallace > # # > # # 81 Wag > # # > # # > # # > # # ? > # # > # > # > # Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > # _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live^Y: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=PID23384::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:NF_BR_syn c:082009 ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #3402 **************************