From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Sat Apr 9 13:55:36 2011 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Saturday, April 9 2011 Volume 01 : Number 3722 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: Temperature issues from 5 years ago, probably found Re: fsj: rhino chaser on #27 RE: fsj: fuel prices and some general advice/reminders Re: fsj: rhino chaser on #27 Re: fsj: fuel prices and some general advice/reminders Re: fsj: fuel prices and some general advice/reminders FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 12:47:43 -0700 From: Michel Balea Subject: fsj: Temperature issues from 5 years ago, probably found The rear seal of the intake manifold decided to call it quit... which is good because Moab is in a few days, of course as gas goes up, it may make sense to go for a shorter trip, or see below for some interesting link while we return to our scheduled program. So I believe that some pitting around the rear cooling port, explained some temp fluctuations that I had a 5 years ago.... yes 5 years ago, as the rust built up, it plugged the small needle hole between the rear most bolt and the water passage, coolant never worked its way around, just a lot of rust when I removed the last bolt. Coolant level was fine, temperature stabilized to slightly above the old standards but still in the 1/3 lower range. I smoothed out and sanded as much rust as I could on the head. Put RTV and let is sit for 24hrs hours.... The funny thing is that this 24hr rule..... I never waited 24hrs before, and I am sure that the mechanics ever wait 24hrs, they may use heat lamp while reassembling. After doing a little search you realize that RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanization, of course room or garage temp varies from winter 45 to summer 90 degrees for the lucky ones. It seems that the curing needs moisture to complete, so I should have added the coolant right away, but being in SF, our moisture is always 75-90%. Back to the link mentioned in paragraph one, a crown vic in hells revenge.... so I may use the civic instead to go to Moab..... it comes with OEM tow hooks... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFwPXEeJ3aI Michel 74 wag ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 13:30:31 -0700 (PDT) From: JeepNut Subject: Re: fsj: rhino chaser on #27 Oh yeah. Now that's the ticket. JeepNut - ---------------------------------------------------------- '92 Cherokee Laredo, bought new, an heirloom. Passed to one of the grandkids in 2009 -at- 270K miles.... '04 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Bone stock. It's hers. '87 Street Comanche #24/100. In storage. '88 Grand Wagoneer - '81 AMC 360 -.030 over- Edelbrock Performer/1400 600cfm 4bbl, TFI System upgrade, TF727 -mild kit- NP229, D44's F/R -3:31- B.J.'s Offroad 6" kit/ drop pittman, stainless extended brake lines, ProComp 3000 shocks, Maxxis Buckshot 33x12.5x15 14 Spoke OEM Wagonwheels, IPF 65/55 lamps...and then some. - ---------------------------------------------------------- Registered Linux user #287453 - --- On Fri, 4/8/11, john wrote: > From: john > Subject: fsj: rhino chaser on #27 > To: "full size jeep list" > Date: Friday, April 8, 2011, 1:06 AM > whaddya think? > > http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/rigs/1983-J10-white/2011-04-07-J10-rhino/ALL.html > > > > ----- > - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where > Jeeps don't rust, they mold > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > si vis pacem, para bellum > tunc aperuit illis sensum ut > intellegerent scripturas > http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us > - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 13:44:42 -0700 From: Jim Blair Subject: RE: fsj: fuel prices and some general advice/reminders On the vacuum hoses: switch to high heat silicone hose and be done with it. On the fuel cost overseas, is that Euros/liter? If so, the liter to gallon conversion (constant) is to divide liters by 3.78 to get a US gallon. Currently it's $1.45 US to 1 Euro. So 1.80 x 1.45/3.78 = $6.90 USD/us gal. > Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 11:52:27 -0700 > From: john-at-wagoneers.com > To: > Subject: fsj: fuel prices and some general advice/reminders > > my friend from Holland sent his current fuel prices below my sig file... > I tanked up the rav4 (23mpg) at costco for 2.65, the tdi for 4.29, prices US dollar per gallon. > > > I'm heading out to fix the tail lights on my "new" '83 J10 pickup and thinking about a few of the emails off list about things > mechanical and feel it's a good idea to bring them up across a wider audience. > > SOME GENERAL REMINDERS AND TIPS (learned the hard way): (I have links and pictures behind most of these... ;) > > please add to the list, this was a quick note off the top of my head... the information for a specific type of vehicle > is often applicable to other types... electrical connections, vacuum issues, fluids, and so on are somewhat universal... > > > > Mercedes Diesels and other vehicles with timing chains: > - good idea to replace timing chains and associated hardware around 200,000 miles > - valves on OM617s need to be adjusted, ck the chain, mileage will improve if it's in spec > - ignition switches on W201 and W124s should be replaced prior to about 175,000 miles... > - if you hear a funny sound from the front of the engine, check the OIL pump chain > - if your car doesn't shut off, FIX your vacuum leaks > - if your door locks don't work, FIX your vacuum leaks > - if your climate control does not work, USE MERCEDES BENZ PARTS to fix, you can reflow solder connections first > - if you have electrical issues, FIRST replace all the fuses, even if they "look" good. > - if your door window doesn't work, do NOT assume it's the window motor, check the switch and connectors first, clean, tighten. > > VW TDI - belt change at recommended intervals, watch the intake manifold for buildup... > - use fuel that has good lubricity > - be careful of "wisdom" on the various boards - one group will say block egr, another say reprogram... for now I plan on cleaning again > - if you can shift around 2,000 rpm you'll see very good mileage, read that 1,800 is ideal for a Diesel, (not sure which one) > > XJs - keep an eye on the fuel injector o-rings... if you take that rail off, REPLACE ALL of the O-rings! > - keep an eye on the oil level if your rear main leaks - run good oil, change often > - if you have a slip yoke, keep an eye on that seal and the ATF level in the aluminum xfr case. > - if you have a pre-HO engine, using comfort over power will save about 1mpg, lower shifting rpm > - if you replace your injectors make sure they are the right ones... '87-'90 will work in HO and vice versa, mileage will vary. > - if you have electrical issues with a non-HO XJ check the bulkhead connector > > WJs - keep an eye on the coolant levels - especially with the 4.0s (very critical on XJ's mid-99 and up) > - if your rotors warp, replace with performance slotted rotors - aftermarket (same is true for Mercedes) > - warm the 4.7L up whenever you drive it, use good oil, avoid pennzoil, quaker state, valvoline and cheap brands... sludge is an enemy > - avoid 4.0L's in WJ unless you're only driving in town, the 42RE doesn't help mileage on the freeway(18 mpg was my best) > - if you're doing a lot of freeway driving, get a 4.7L V8 the 45RFE will get good mileage (21.3 mpg my best) > - if you're adding a trailer, USE the factory wiring modules that PLUG in... don't let someone splice into the harness. > > FSJs - keep intake and exhaust manifolds tight, use loctite when off > - replace ALL rubber lines under the hood on an annual basis > - recommend jacobs ignition wires (only) or any excellent wires... many ideas on coils/conversion to HEI etc... ymmv > - grounds are a big deal, protect wiring > - remember an automatic transmission does NOT route ATF to the cooler when in park, idle in NEUTRAL! > - if you have a 4.2 the weber carb will improve mileage and performance > - if you have a 360/5.9 the edelbrock performer manifold and carb will help mileage... a little bit, but it'll run smoother > > GENERAL across brands > - exercise all the switches and windows monthly > - clean battery contacts and make sure grounds are solid > - check for wires rubbing and tape up... the handyman's secret weapon is fine... > - with newer vehicles recommend using factory parts, especially electrical parts > - avoid carfax as a deciding factor in buying a vehicle, they sell FUD... take it to a good mechanic rather > - use the lists and forums (google) to troubleshoot... many forums have FAQs (asking is easier and on most lists a friendly way of meeting folks) > - as always, amsoil synthetic is my recommendation, been a dealer since 1983: > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > > ----- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 si vis pacem, para bellum > tunc aperuit illis sensum ut intellegerent scripturas > http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Stef > > > John, here the gas price in the Nethetlands per liter > Gas advice price BP Esso Shell Texaco Total > Euro95 1.741 1.739 1.739 1.739 1.749 1.739 > Super plus 1.809 nvt nvt nvt 1.809 1.809 > Super MLV 1.829 1.829 > Diesel 1.431 1.429 1.429 1.429 1.439 1.429 > LPG 0.820 0.825 0.819 0.809 0.829 0.819 > V-Power 1.799 1.799 > V-Power Diesel 1.509 1.509 > Ultimate ong 98 1.799 1.799 > Ultimate Diesel 1.479 1.479 > Excellium Benzine 1.799 1.799 > Excellium Diesel 1.499 1.499 > Euro XL 1.809 1.809 > Energy Supreme 1.799 1.799 > Laatste prijswijziging: zaterdag 9 april 2011 > > > > .,======, oOOo > //_____I_,\____\,____ > I_/---\__I___/---OIIIIIIIO > ._(o)_)_____(o)_)-o--)_)__ > > Mvg. > Stef Sliedrecht ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 20:48:40 +0000 From: john Subject: Re: fsj: rhino chaser on #27 Got it in my shop, tail lights, fuel gauge, stereo and tach next. john at http://wagoneers.com - -----Original Message----- From: JeepNut Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 13:30:31 To: john; FSJ List Subject: Re: fsj: rhino chaser on #27 Oh yeah. Now that's the ticket. JeepNut - ---------------------------------------------------------- '92 Cherokee Laredo, bought new, an heirloom. Passed to one of the grandkids in 2009 -at- 270K miles.... '04 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Bone stock. It's hers. '87 Street Comanche #24/100. In storage. '88 Grand Wagoneer - '81 AMC 360 -.030 over- Edelbrock Performer/1400 600cfm 4bbl, TFI System upgrade, TF727 -mild kit- NP229, D44's F/R -3:31- B.J.'s Offroad 6" kit/ drop pittman, stainless extended brake lines, ProComp 3000 shocks, Maxxis Buckshot 33x12.5x15 14 Spoke OEM Wagonwheels, IPF 65/55 lamps...and then some. - ---------------------------------------------------------- Registered Linux user #287453 - --- On Fri, 4/8/11, john wrote: > From: john > Subject: fsj: rhino chaser on #27 > To: "full size jeep list" > Date: Friday, April 8, 2011, 1:06 AM > whaddya think? > > http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/rigs/1983-J10-white/2011-04-07-J10-rhino/ALL.html > > > > ----- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where > Jeeps don't rust, they mold > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > si vis pacem, para bellum > tunc aperuit illis sensum ut > intellegerent scripturas > http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 20:49:28 +0000 From: john Subject: Re: fsj: fuel prices and some general advice/reminders Where can one find this? Will it have enough rigidity so it won't collapse? john at http://wagoneers.com - -----Original Message----- From: Jim Blair Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 13:44:42 To: ; Subject: RE: fsj: fuel prices and some general advice/reminders On the vacuum hoses: switch to high heat silicone hose and be done with it. On the fuel cost overseas, is that Euros/liter? If so, the liter to gallon conversion (constant) is to divide liters by 3.78 to get a US gallon. Currently it's $1.45 US to 1 Euro. So 1.80 x 1.45/3.78 = $6.90 USD/us gal. > Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 11:52:27 -0700 > From: john-at-wagoneers.com > To: > Subject: fsj: fuel prices and some general advice/reminders > > my friend from Holland sent his current fuel prices below my sig file... > I tanked up the rav4 (23mpg) at costco for 2.65, the tdi for 4.29, prices US dollar per gallon. > > > I'm heading out to fix the tail lights on my "new" '83 J10 pickup and thinking about a few of the emails off list about things > mechanical and feel it's a good idea to bring them up across a wider audience. > > SOME GENERAL REMINDERS AND TIPS (learned the hard way): (I have links and pictures behind most of these... ;) > > please add to the list, this was a quick note off the top of my head... the information for a specific type of vehicle > is often applicable to other types... electrical connections, vacuum issues, fluids, and so on are somewhat universal... > > > > Mercedes Diesels and other vehicles with timing chains: > - good idea to replace timing chains and associated hardware around 200,000 miles > - valves on OM617s need to be adjusted, ck the chain, mileage will improve if it's in spec > - ignition switches on W201 and W124s should be replaced prior to about 175,000 miles... > - if you hear a funny sound from the front of the engine, check the OIL pump chain > - if your car doesn't shut off, FIX your vacuum leaks > - if your door locks don't work, FIX your vacuum leaks > - if your climate control does not work, USE MERCEDES BENZ PARTS to fix, you can reflow solder connections first > - if you have electrical issues, FIRST replace all the fuses, even if they "look" good. > - if your door window doesn't work, do NOT assume it's the window motor, check the switch and connectors first, clean, tighten. > > VW TDI - belt change at recommended intervals, watch the intake manifold for buildup... > - use fuel that has good lubricity > - be careful of "wisdom" on the various boards - one group will say block egr, another say reprogram... for now I plan on cleaning again > - if you can shift around 2,000 rpm you'll see very good mileage, read that 1,800 is ideal for a Diesel, (not sure which one) > > XJs - keep an eye on the fuel injector o-rings... if you take that rail off, REPLACE ALL of the O-rings! > - keep an eye on the oil level if your rear main leaks - run good oil, change often > - if you have a slip yoke, keep an eye on that seal and the ATF level in the aluminum xfr case. > - if you have a pre-HO engine, using comfort over power will save about 1mpg, lower shifting rpm > - if you replace your injectors make sure they are the right ones... '87-'90 will work in HO and vice versa, mileage will vary. > - if you have electrical issues with a non-HO XJ check the bulkhead connector > > WJs - keep an eye on the coolant levels - especially with the 4.0s (very critical on XJ's mid-99 and up) > - if your rotors warp, replace with performance slotted rotors - aftermarket (same is true for Mercedes) > - warm the 4.7L up whenever you drive it, use good oil, avoid pennzoil, quaker state, valvoline and cheap brands... sludge is an enemy > - avoid 4.0L's in WJ unless you're only driving in town, the 42RE doesn't help mileage on the freeway(18 mpg was my best) > - if you're doing a lot of freeway driving, get a 4.7L V8 the 45RFE will get good mileage (21.3 mpg my best) > - if you're adding a trailer, USE the factory wiring modules that PLUG in... don't let someone splice into the harness. > > FSJs - keep intake and exhaust manifolds tight, use loctite when off > - replace ALL rubber lines under the hood on an annual basis > - recommend jacobs ignition wires (only) or any excellent wires... many ideas on coils/conversion to HEI etc... ymmv > - grounds are a big deal, protect wiring > - remember an automatic transmission does NOT route ATF to the cooler when in park, idle in NEUTRAL! > - if you have a 4.2 the weber carb will improve mileage and performance > - if you have a 360/5.9 the edelbrock performer manifold and carb will help mileage... a little bit, but it'll run smoother > > GENERAL across brands > - exercise all the switches and windows monthly > - clean battery contacts and make sure grounds are solid > - check for wires rubbing and tape up... the handyman's secret weapon is fine... > - with newer vehicles recommend using factory parts, especially electrical parts > - avoid carfax as a deciding factor in buying a vehicle, they sell FUD... take it to a good mechanic rather > - use the lists and forums (google) to troubleshoot... many forums have FAQs (asking is easier and on most lists a friendly way of meeting folks) > - as always, amsoil synthetic is my recommendation, been a dealer since 1983: > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > > ----- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 si vis pacem, para bellum > tunc aperuit illis sensum ut intellegerent scripturas > http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Stef > > > John, here the gas price in the Nethetlands per liter > Gas advice price BP Esso Shell Texaco Total > Euro95 1.741 1.739 1.739 1.739 1.749 1.739 > Super plus 1.809 nvt nvt nvt 1.809 1.809 > Super MLV 1.829 1.829 > Diesel 1.431 1.429 1.429 1.429 1.439 1.429 > LPG 0.820 0.825 0.819 0.809 0.829 0.819 > V-Power 1.799 1.799 > V-Power Diesel 1.509 1.509 > Ultimate ong 98 1.799 1.799 > Ultimate Diesel 1.479 1.479 > Excellium Benzine 1.799 1.799 > Excellium Diesel 1.499 1.499 > Euro XL 1.809 1.809 > Energy Supreme 1.799 1.799 > Laatste prijswijziging: zaterdag 9 april 2011 > > > > .,======, oOOo > //_____I_,\____\,____ > I_/---\__I___/---OIIIIIIIO > ._(o)_)_____(o)_)-o--)_)__ > > Mvg. > Stef Sliedrecht ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 13:54:58 -0700 (PDT) From: JeepNut Subject: Re: fsj: fuel prices and some general advice/reminders I think I know what Jim's talking about. It's like the hose that came w/ my airhorn kit. Silicone, thick walled tubing I was thinking that it seems stiff enough that it wouldn't collapse under reasonable vacumn, but that thought revealed the better question: What is the collapse value in Hg.? That way we'd know where to and where NOT to use it. Probably varies by diameter I suppose. JeepNut - ---------------------------------------------------------- '92 Cherokee Laredo, bought new, an heirloom. Passed to one of the grandkids in 2009 -at- 270K miles.... '04 Grand Cherokee Laredo. Bone stock. It's hers. '87 Street Comanche #24/100. In storage. '88 Grand Wagoneer - '81 AMC 360 - -.030 over- Edelbrock Performer/1400 600cfm 4bbl, TFI System upgrade, TF727 - -mild kit- NP229, D44's F/R -3:31- B.J.'s Offroad 6" kit/ drop pittman, stainless extended brake lines, ProComp 3000 shocks, Maxxis Buckshot 33x12.5x15 14 Spoke OEM Wagonwheels, IPF 65/55 lamps...and then some. - ---------------------------------------------------------- Registered Linux user #287453 - --- On Sat, 4/9/11, john wrote: > From: john > Subject: Re: fsj: fuel prices and some general advice/reminders > To: "Jim Blair-email" , fsj-digest-at-digest.net > Date: Saturday, April 9, 2011, 3:49 PM > Where can one find this? Will > it have enough rigidity so it won't collapse? > john at http://wagoneers.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Blair > Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 13:44:42 > To: ; > > Subject: RE: fsj: fuel prices and some general > advice/reminders > > On the vacuum hoses: switch to high heat silicone hose and > be done with it. > > On the fuel cost overseas, is that Euros/liter? If so, the > liter to gallon conversion (constant) is to divide liters by > 3.78 to get a US gallon. > Currently it's $1.45 US to 1 Euro. > > So 1.80 x 1.45/3.78 = $6.90 USD/us gal. > > > Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 11:52:27 -0700 > > From: john-at-wagoneers.com > > To: > > Subject: fsj: fuel prices and some general > advice/reminders > > > > my friend from Holland sent his current fuel prices > below my sig file... > > I tanked up the rav4 (23mpg) at > costco for 2.65, the tdi for 4.29, prices US dollar per > gallon. > > > > > > I'm heading out to fix the tail lights on my "new" '83 > J10 pickup and thinking about a few of the emails off list > about things > > mechanical and feel it's a good idea to bring them up > across a wider audience. > > > > SOME GENERAL REMINDERS AND TIPS (learned the hard > way): (I have links and pictures behind most of these... ;) > > > > please add to the list, this was a quick note off the > top of my head... the information for a specific type of > vehicle > > is often applicable to other types... electrical > connections, vacuum issues, fluids, and so on are somewhat > universal... > > > > > > > > Mercedes Diesels and other vehicles with timing > chains: > > - good idea to replace timing > chains and associated hardware around 200,000 miles > > - valves on OM617s need to be > adjusted, ck the chain, mileage will improve if it's in > spec > > - ignition switches on W201 and > W124s should be replaced prior to about 175,000 miles... > > - if you hear a funny sound from > the front of the engine, check the OIL pump chain > > - if your car doesn't shut off, FIX > your vacuum leaks > > - if your door locks don't work, > FIX your vacuum leaks > > - if your climate control does not > work, USE MERCEDES BENZ PARTS to fix, you can reflow solder > connections first > > - if you have electrical issues, > FIRST replace all the fuses, even if they "look" good. > > - if your door window doesn't work, > do NOT assume it's the window motor, check the switch and > connectors first, clean, tighten. > > > > VW TDI - belt change at recommended intervals, > watch the intake manifold for buildup... > > - use fuel that has good lubricity > > - be careful of "wisdom" on the > various boards - one group will say block egr, another say > reprogram... for now I plan on cleaning again > > - if you can shift around 2,000 rpm > you'll see very good mileage, read that 1,800 is ideal for a > Diesel, (not sure which one) > > > > XJs - keep an eye on the fuel > injector o-rings... if you take that rail off, REPLACE ALL > of the O-rings! > > - keep an > eye on the oil level if your rear main leaks - run good oil, > change often > > - if you have a slip yoke, keep an > eye on that seal and the ATF level in the aluminum xfr > case. > > - if you have a pre-HO engine, > using comfort over power will save about 1mpg, lower > shifting rpm > > - if you replace your injectors > make sure they are the right ones... '87-'90 will work in HO > and vice versa, mileage will vary. > > - if you have electrical issues > with a non-HO XJ check the bulkhead > connector > > > > WJs - keep an eye on the coolant > levels - especially with the 4.0s (very critical on XJ's > mid-99 and up) > > - if your rotors warp, replace with > performance slotted rotors - aftermarket (same is true for > Mercedes) > > - warm the 4.7L up whenever you > drive it, use good oil, avoid pennzoil, quaker state, > valvoline and cheap brands... sludge is an enemy > > - avoid 4.0L's in WJ unless you're > only driving in town, the 42RE doesn't help mileage on the > freeway(18 mpg was my best) > > - if you're doing a lot of freeway > driving, get a 4.7L V8 the 45RFE will get good mileage (21.3 > mpg my best) > > - if you're adding a trailer, USE > the factory wiring modules that PLUG in... don't let someone > splice into the harness. > > > > FSJs - keep intake and > exhaust manifolds tight, use loctite when off > > - replace ALL rubber lines under > the hood on an annual basis > > - recommend jacobs ignition wires > (only) or any excellent wires... many ideas on > coils/conversion to HEI etc... ymmv > > - grounds are a big deal, protect > wiring > > - remember an automatic > transmission does NOT route ATF to the cooler when in park, > idle in NEUTRAL! > > - if you have a 4.2 the weber carb > will improve mileage and performance > > - if you have a 360/5.9 the > edelbrock performer manifold and carb will help mileage... a > little bit, but it'll run smoother > > > > GENERAL across brands > > - exercise all the switches and > windows monthly > > - clean battery contacts and make > sure grounds are solid > > - check for wires rubbing and tape > up... the handyman's secret weapon is fine... > > - with newer vehicles recommend > using factory parts, especially electrical parts > > - avoid carfax as a deciding factor > in buying a vehicle, they sell FUD... take it to a good > mechanic rather > > - use the lists and forums (google) > to troubleshoot... many forums have FAQs (asking is easier > and on most lists a friendly way of meeting folks) > > - as always, amsoil synthetic is my > recommendation, been a dealer since 1983: > > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > > > > ----- > > > - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Snohomish, Washington > -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > si vis pacem, para bellum > > tunc aperuit illis sensum ut > intellegerent scripturas > > http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us > > > - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > > From: Stef > > > > > > John, here the gas price in the Nethetlands per > liter > > Gas advice price BP Esso Shell Texaco Total > > Euro95 1.741 1.739 > 1.739 1.739 1.749 1.739 > > Super plus 1.809 nvt > nvt nvt 1.809 1.809 > > Super MLV 1.829 > 1.829 > > Diesel 1.431 1.429 > 1.429 1.429 1.439 1.429 > > LPG 0.820 0.825 0.819 > 0.809 0.829 0.819 > > V-Power > 1.799 1.799 > > V-Power Diesel > 1.509 1.509 > > Ultimate ong 98 1.799 > 1.799 > > Ultimate Diesel 1.479 > 1.479 > > Excellium Benzine > 1.799 1.799 > > Excellium Diesel > 1.499 1.499 > > Euro XL 1.809 > 1.809 > > Energy Supreme > 1.799 1.799 > > Laatste prijswijziging: > zaterdag 9 april 2011 > > > > > > > > .,======, oOOo > > //_____I_,\____\,____ > > I_/---\__I___/---OIIIIIIIO > > ._(o)_)_____(o)_)-o--)_)__ > > > > Mvg. > > Stef Sliedrecht ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #3722 **************************