From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Tue Aug 17 07:07:14 1999 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Tuesday, August 17 1999 Volume 01 : Number 524 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: tranny trouble, hope this is something simple. Re: fsj: E-Brake Down -- E-Brake Up ----- It's Not Designed To Wrok This Way Re: fsj: E-Brake Down -- E-Brake Up ----- It's Not Designed To Wrok This Way fsj: 360 oil pressure troubles.... fsj: FW: 360 oil pressure troubles.... fsj: 700r4 to ? fsj: Sparkless Re: fsj: 360 oil pressure troubles.... fsj: j10 pictures... :( fsj: Re: j10 pictures... :( fsj: I need a 4v carb... fsj: to J10 or to Wagoneer... Re: fsj: I need a 4v carb... Re: fsj: to J10 or to Wagoneer... Re: fsj: I need a 4v carb... Re: fsj: I need a 4v carb... FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 08:44:10 -0600 From: "Tacoma White" Subject: fsj: tranny trouble, hope this is something simple. ok.. I haven't looked at any diagnostic literature on this yet, it's 8:30am and I've been up all night, BUT..... the wife's Jeep will not shift into Drive while cold... oops, I meant, it will not ENGAGE drive when cold. It works a little better in 1st or 2nd, but still won't shift well, lots of hesitation. Once it's been warmed up for the day, it runs fine. Fluid levels are ok. I haven't looked at the filter or anything yet either. My M725 also started to develop this problem, Phoenix listers' opinions are it's the filter.. but that truck has MUCH bigger troubles right now... hehe. Is this probably just the filter? Or is this another &#$(-at-^** Jeep nightmare hehe.. I'd rather just replace a filter than rebuild a tranny this week... hehe interesting side note: this week I will be removing 2 motors, one tranny, one transfer case (alone! so we'll see if youth=strength or not heeh, besides, a 205 is light haha!!), and replacing a motor.... FUN FUN FUN!! I'm going to go try to sleep now, while my stomach twists in knots over the impending punishment I'm about to inflict upon myself LOL>. Thanks for your help! in UT Tacoma 67 Kaiser M725 "Gigantor the Heep" icq 5058954 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 08:46:02 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: fsj: E-Brake Down -- E-Brake Up ----- It's Not Designed To Wrok This Way it's in the lever mechanism... there to the right under the dash... :( john On Mon, 16 Aug 1999, B. COLUCCI wrote: >-->Greetings To The FSJ World! >--> >-->OK here's an annoying FSJ problem that only happens when it is cold; or >-->the A/C has been chilling for awhile. I go to park the USS GW and apply >-->the E-Brake to keep the load off of the trany park powl. Depress the >-->petal and it makes that familiar racheting clicking noise on the way >-->down. Then I take my foot off of the petal and it pops back up; making >-->the racheting noise on the way back to the up stop. The racheting unit >-->is disengaged when you normally pull the handle so that the petal just >-->snaps to the up stop silently. After 3 or 4 rounds of the down up >-->ritual it will stay down. >--> >-->OK what is causing this and how can it be fixed. Lady Susan's 90 >-->Plymouth Sundance has the same problem. Gee I wonder if they both use >-->the same supplier? >--> >--> >--> >-->Until The Next Dimension, >-->Admiral "Coluch." >-->Starfleet Headquarters >-->Ohio Post >-->End Transmission........................................ >--> >--> >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com **** Snohomish, Washington USA don't leave life without jesus, please... http://wagoneers.com - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 08:59:28 -0700 From: Thunderbird Subject: Re: fsj: E-Brake Down -- E-Brake Up ----- It's Not Designed To Wrok This Way I would try lubricating the latch (the thing making the ratcheting sound.) john wrote: > it's in the lever mechanism... there to the right under the dash... :( > john > > > On Mon, 16 Aug 1999, B. COLUCCI wrote: > > >-->Greetings To The FSJ World! > >--> > >-->OK here's an annoying FSJ problem that only happens when it is cold; or > >-->the A/C has been chilling for awhile. I go to park the USS GW and apply > >-->the E-Brake to keep the load off of the trany park powl. Depress the > >-->petal and it makes that familiar racheting clicking noise on the way > >-->down. Then I take my foot off of the petal and it pops back up; making > >-->the racheting noise on the way back to the up stop. The racheting unit > >-->is disengaged when you normally pull the handle so that the petal just > >-->snaps to the up stop silently. After 3 or 4 rounds of the down up > >-->ritual it will stay down. > >--> > >-->OK what is causing this and how can it be fixed. Lady Susan's 90 > >-->Plymouth Sundance has the same problem. Gee I wonder if they both use > >-->the same supplier? > >--> > >--> > >--> > >-->Until The Next Dimension, > >-->Admiral "Coluch." > >-->Starfleet Headquarters > >-->Ohio Post > >-->End Transmission........................................ > >--> > >--> > >--> > > ---- > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > john-at-wagoneers.com **** Snohomish, Washington USA > don't leave life without jesus, please... > http://wagoneers.com > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > Brian 78 J-10 4bbl/360/TH400/PTQT/D44/D44 97 Thunderbird 4.6 V8/Sport/LSD I went to school to become a wit, only got halfway through... I won't insult your intelligence by suggesting that you really believe what you just said - -William Buckley, Jr. ______________________________________________________ Get your free web-based email at http://www.xoom.com Birthday? Anniversary? Send FREE animated greeting cards for any occasion at http://greetings.xoom.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 12:36:28 -0400 From: "Bednarik, Nathan" Subject: fsj: 360 oil pressure troubles.... Hello!!! My oil pressure gauge plummeted to nothing all of the sudden this weekend. I just recently had my 360 rebuilt and have been sorting out minor problems one at a time. This was the last thing I expected. I had pressure intermittently for a while but now there is none. I installed a timing chain lubricating system from the sending unit into the timing cover. I disconnected it to determine/verify there really was no pressure and that it was not just the gauge. I pulled the pump off last week already to replace the gasket and seal and it worked fine for a few days. I thought maybe some of the gasket sealer maybe squeezed in and clogged the filter or something so, I replaced the oil filter and that wasn't it. Now I have developed a slight tick in the valves because of the lack of oil, that gets worse with every start. So, now I am hesitant to attempt to start it at all until I can sort this out. The oil pump gears and components are all new. Would over torqued bolts effect this? What else do you think it might be? I was going to take it all apart again tonight and re-inspect. What exactly creates the pressure? How do the oil pump components work? Wow!! I sound pretty ignorant. And I thought I knew it all...=) Any thoughts, theory's, suggestions are greatly appreciated. Nate ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 12:54:55 -0400 From: "Bednarik, Nathan" Subject: fsj: FW: 360 oil pressure troubles.... Sorry...still figuring out how this works...I'm a newby =) > ---------- > From: Bednarik, Nathan > Sent: Monday, August 16, 1999 9:36 AM > To: 'fsj-at-digest.net' > Subject: 360 oil pressure troubles.... > > Hello!!! > > My oil pressure gauge plummeted to nothing all of the sudden this > weekend. I just recently had my 360 rebuilt and have been sorting out > minor problems one at a time. This was the last thing I expected. > > I had pressure intermittently for a while but now there is none. I > installed a timing chain lubricating system from the sending unit into the > timing cover. I disconnected it to determine/verify there really was no > pressure and that it was not just the gauge. > > I pulled the pump off last week already to replace the gasket and seal and > it worked fine for a few days. I thought maybe some of the gasket sealer > maybe squeezed in and clogged the filter or something so, I replaced the > oil filter and that wasn't it. > > Now I have developed a slight tick in the valves because of the lack of > oil, that gets worse with every start. So, now I am hesitant to attempt > to start it at all until I can sort this out. > > The oil pump gears and components are all new. Would over torqued bolts > effect this? What else do you think it might be? I was going to take it > all apart again tonight and re-inspect. > > What exactly creates the pressure? How do the oil pump components work? > > Wow!! I sound pretty ignorant. And I thought I knew it all...=) Any > thoughts, theory's, suggestions are greatly appreciated. > > Nate > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 17:43:11 -0400 From: Michael Baxter Subject: fsj: 700r4 to ? "Jason Whitaker" writes: >> A double-cardan would be out of alignment when used like this though. Would the lateral angle cause vibes? Maybe there is no warnings because i= ts so rare to have this situation. << I think they would have warned about since a lot of older CJs also run an offset rear-end and many get t-case upgrades. The rear driveshaft on a= CJ is prime candidate for a double-cardan and I'm sure many have been converted over the years. My Q-T's front drive shaft has a little bit of lateral angle, but it isn't much? Like .4 degrees. I'll see if I can find more data on using the double-cardan with significant lateral angle present. -- Michael Baxter, MBaxter-at-Compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA on 16-Aug-1999 = ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 17:43:10 -0400 From: Michael Baxter Subject: fsj: Sparkless "toboggan hill farm" writes: >> So far I have replaced the coil, condenser, ignition control module (twice because I was sure that was the problem), cap, rotor, plugs, and coil wire. The "I" terminal on the starter solenoid seems to be functioni= ng as it should. << >> I can't figure out how to remove the trigger wheel (to gain access to the stator). << Based on the description of your problem, you had a 50/50 chance it was the ignition module or the magnetic/inductive pick-up in the distributor.= And there is no really good way to test either for a thermal related intermittent. Ford guys used to put a bare 100 watt light bulb up against= the control module for a few hours, start the engine and then hit the module with a hammer. If the engine died, the module was the problem. If the engine ran, they replaced the inductive pick-up :-). The trigger wheel can usually be removed by: Remove the cap & rotor of course. Wrap a rag around the dist. shaft below the reluctor (trigger wheel) and= form it into a bowl as best you can. Grab a hold of the reluctor and yank upwards sharply. Look around in the rag for the small roll pin which retains the reluctor after you get it off the shaft. The roll pin fits in one of the two vertical grooves in the shaft. It doesn't make any difference which groov= e on each part the roll pin goes back-in either. In the event the reluctor is rusted/stuck to the shaft good, there are a few things you can do. One is to soak the reluctor to shaft union with penetrating oil. The best would be to apply a little oil twice a day for several days before trying to remove it again. = Also very small 2 or 3 jaw pullers are available which will remove it. Just make sure the tapered point of the puller somehow (like use a 1/4" drive socket) is seated firmly against the solid top of the dist. shaft a= nd not seated against the recess wall where the rotor mounts. If you find a felt pad down in the recess, sitting on top of the solid part, don't loos= e it. Put a few drops of oil on it when you put it back together too. The jaws should grab the reluctor in the strongest place possible...meaning avoid pulling on the "teeth." A small piece of rather thick metal above each jaw would be a good idea to spread the load out. -- Michael Baxter, MBaxter-at-Compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA on 16-Aug-1999 = ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 16:32:59 -0700 From: "R.J. Baynum" Subject: Re: fsj: 360 oil pressure troubles.... maybe you have gasket sealer in some of the oil ports in the engine? R.J. "Bednarik, Nathan" wrote: > > Hello!!! > > My oil pressure gauge plummeted to nothing all of the sudden this weekend. > I just recently had my 360 rebuilt and have been sorting out minor problems > one at a time. This was the last thing I expected. > > I had pressure intermittently for a while but now there is none. I > installed a timing chain lubricating system from the sending unit into the > timing cover. I disconnected it to determine/verify there really was no > pressure and that it was not just the gauge. > > I pulled the pump off last week already to replace the gasket and seal and > it worked fine for a few days. I thought maybe some of the gasket sealer > maybe squeezed in and clogged the filter or something so, I replaced the oil > filter and that wasn't it. > > Now I have developed a slight tick in the valves because of the lack of oil, > that gets worse with every start. So, now I am hesitant to attempt to start > it at all until I can sort this out. > > The oil pump gears and components are all new. Would over torqued bolts > effect this? What else do you think it might be? I was going to take it > all apart again tonight and re-inspect. > > What exactly creates the pressure? How do the oil pump components work? > > Wow!! I sound pretty ignorant. And I thought I knew it all...=) Any > thoughts, theory's, suggestions are greatly appreciated. > > Nate ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 19:25:38 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: j10 pictures... :( I finally got the J10 pix from CA. It's not a stepside, needs paint, and isn't worth a trip down. :( On the other hand, Hey Whit, are those dana44 front 3.07's with Disc brakes? There is a cheaper (read: needs work) short wb J10 locally... Maybe we can do some horsetrading yet. :) gotta run, john - ----------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 20:28:19 -0600 From: "Tacoma White" Subject: fsj: Re: j10 pictures... :( > On the other hand, Hey Whit, are those dana44 front 3.07's with Disc brakes? ack! 3.07's!! I'm talking myself OUT of 4.56's for the Cherokee and into 4.89's or 5.13's for the M725 (cuz it's getting overdrive eheh) moooohahaha. This winter I will have a freakin' 4x4 showroom in my garage! (containing a 396, a 454, a cracked 460, an SM465 tranny, a 205 xfer, 14bolt axle, Ranger overdrive etc etc... heheh... and lots of shiny new parts heheh.. good thing most of it's free!!) in UT Tacoma 67 Kaiser M725 "Gigantor the Heep" icq 5058954 > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 21:48:19 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: I need a 4v carb... I need a 4v carb...for my 77 Wagoneer, 360 v-8, motorcraft 4350 (I think)... It has secondaries the size of... well, they're large... I bought an Edelbrock carb but can't find an adapter anywhere that will work... :( I'm not excited about buying a manifold too... I'm not 100% sure the engine is worth that much effort. :) Someone on one of the lists (I thought it was the fsj list) offered me a 4v carb that was working. If it's a good carb I'd even consider swapping my Edelbrock 1406 for it... sorry for the slightly off topic problem... FWIW, the little wagoneer and Fritz are doing pretty good... :) john - ----------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 21:44:29 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: to J10 or to Wagoneer... Ok... the pictures came, and the idea of a J10 from sunny CA went. That leaves me with two (currently) options: 1) find a stinkin' carb (or manifold) for my wagoneer and get the silly thing assembled and running 2) make the guy with the white 76 J10/4spd drum brakes an offer of $5oo and then convert to power discs... or 3) sell everything for scrap metal and save aluminum cans and change until I can afford a new Grand Cherokee with dual heating controls and quadradrive... :) (I'm striking out in other wheelin' and dealin' too... the 86 xj I was gonna buy and trade for an 82 or 83 300SD isn't worthy of such a trade... the motor isn't "new" it's got 65000 miles on it! and it's leaking, and has a cracked exhaust and the tranny... oh, never mind... :) So I'm stuck with Fritz, who has a few problems to deal with but nothing pressing... ) Anyways... A j10 would be cool, but I have a nice looking Wagoneer with dual tanks and a rear carrier... just need a carb... john john - ----------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 22:01:41 -0700 From: Whit Subject: Re: fsj: I need a 4v carb... Why won't the Edelbrock fit? My Holley fits fine on my Edelbrock manifold and I assume that the Holley will fit on the stock 4V manifold, or maybe not? I might have something that will help if you tell me the problem. Whit At 09:48 PM 8/16/99 -0700, you wrote: >I need a 4v carb...for my 77 Wagoneer, 360 v-8, motorcraft 4350 (I >think)... It has >secondaries the size of... well, they're large... I bought an Edelbrock >carb but can't find an adapter anywhere that will work... :( I'm not excited >about buying a manifold too... I'm not 100% sure the engine is worth that much >effort. :) > >Someone on one of the lists (I thought it was the fsj list) offered me >a 4v carb that was working. If it's a good carb I'd even consider swapping >my Edelbrock 1406 for it... > >sorry for the slightly off topic problem... FWIW, the little wagoneer and >Fritz are doing pretty good... :) > >john >----------------------------------------------------- > john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com > ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! > Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... >----------------------------------------------------- Whit ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 22:08:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: fsj: to J10 or to Wagoneer... A: That's how I convinced my wife to let me play with my Cherokee rather than spend money on something else right now. Everything that we liked was over $20,000! John wrote: Ok... the pictures came, and the idea of a J10 from sunny CA went. That leaves me with two (currently) options: =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A01) find a stinkin' carb (or manifold) for my wagoneer and =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 get the silly thing assembled and running =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A02) make the guy with the white 76 J10/4spd drum brakes an =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 offer of $5oo and then convert to power discs... or 3) sell everything for scrap metal and save aluminum cans and change until I can afford a new Grand Cherokee with dual heating controls and quadradrive... :) (I'm striking out in other wheelin' and dealin' too... the 86 xj I was gonna buy and trade for an 82 or 83 300SD isn't worthy of such a trade... the motor isn't "new" it's got 65000 miles on it! and it's leaking, and has a cracked exhaust and the tranny... oh, never mind... :) So I'm stuck with Fritz, who has a few problems to deal with but nothing pressing... ) Anyways... A j10 would be cool, but I have a nice looking Wagoneer with dual tanks and a rear carrier... just need a carb... john Jim Blair, Seattle WA 1983 Cherokee 4 dr 4.2L six, 999 AT, Manual hubs Homepage: http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html FREE Online Photo Album: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=3D13998&Auth=3Dfal= se ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 22:06:41 -0700 From: john Subject: Re: fsj: I need a 4v carb... At 10:01 PM 8/16/99 -0700, Whit wrote: >Why won't the Edelbrock fit? My Holley fits fine on my Edelbrock manifold >and I assume that the Holley will fit on the stock 4V manifold, or maybe >not? I might have something that will help if you tell me the problem. >Whit The stock manifold has a wide, large secondary pattern. the primaries are small and close together. The edelbrock is more along the lines of a squarebore... the secondaries are pretty close to the same size as the primaries... It'll bolt right on... except'n that the holes don't quite line up. The Motorcraft 4350 does not mate to an edelbrock or a holley... :( I looked at an adapter, and it won't cover up the space left between the two primaries. Jim Blair mentioned getting a plate to cover that part then using the adapter... he also suggested a 2v-to-4v converter.... that sorta works, but I'll need to plug a bunch of holes because I'm using it the wrong way. The thought of changing manifolds is not attractive either... that's another $200 plus and then all the pain and suffering of installing it... yech. I just want a working FSJ that I can "PUTTER" with, not rebuild. The only thing that is keeping me going is the fact that the grille and hood look out at me every morning as I turn my Benz around... I really like the way the grille looks... and the yellow... It keeps me from giving up... gotta find that carb... or a pair of 80 and up axles so I can use my 4.0L/AW/NP231... :) john - ----------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 22:28:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: fsj: I need a 4v carb... A: My spare axles are now going in my Cherokee (it's going UP! 8^) so I can overcome the 9.5x33" tires that are going on it. At 10:01 PM 8/16/99 -0700, Whit wrote: Why won't the Edelbrock fit? My Holley fits fine on my Edelbrock manifold and I assume that the Holley will fit on the stock 4V manifold, or maybe not? I might have something that will help if you tell me the problem. Whit The stock manifold has a wide, large secondary pattern. the primaries are small and close together. =A0 The edelbrock is more along the lines of a squarebore... the secondaries are pretty close to the same size as the primaries... It'll bolt right on... except'n that the holes don't quite line up. The Motorcraft 4350 does not mate to an edelbrock or a holley... :( I looked at an adapter, and it won't cover up the space left between the two primaries. =A0 Jim Blair mentioned getting a plate to cover that part then using the adapter... he also suggested a 2v-to-4v converter.... that sorta works, but I'll need to plug a bunch of holes because I'm using it the wrong way. The thought of changing manifolds is not attractive either... that's another $200 plus and then all the pain and suffering of installing it... yech. =A0 I just want a working FSJ that I can "PUTTER" with, not rebuild. The only thing that is keeping me going is the fact that the grille and hood look out at me every morning as I turn my Benz around... I really like the way the grille looks... and the yellow... It keeps me from giving up... gotta find that carb... or a pair of 80 and up axles so I can use my 4.0L/AW/NP231... :) john Jim Blair, Seattle WA 1983 Cherokee 4 dr 4.2L six, 999 AT, Manual hubs Homepage: http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html FREE Online Photo Album: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=3D13998&Auth=3Dfal= se ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #524 *************************