From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Thu Apr 13 14:59:07 2000 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Thursday, April 13 2000 Volume 01 : Number 816 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: http://www.WAGONEERS.com/FSJ/new-FSJ-logo.jpg fsj: leaving on a jet airplane... Re: [fsj: CB radio] fsj: finally, after 200k, a name... fsj: synthethic question fsj: in memory of Joe fsj: where are you/rusted Re: fsj: where are you/rusted Re: [fsj: CB radio] Re: fsj: Exhaust leak & P'Blaster fsj: radio waves Re: fsj: where are you/rusted Re: [fsj: CB radio] fsj: Rear Main Seal fsj: Power steering box FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 22:05:26 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: http://www.WAGONEERS.com/FSJ/new-FSJ-logo.jpg try this one... http://www.WAGONEERS.com/FSJ/new-FSJ-logo.jpg At 12:35 AM 4/13/00 -0400, Ray Drouillard wrote: >I would be glad to - if the link would work so that I can see the final >version. > >Ray > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: john >To: Michael Shimniok >Cc: ; <1FSJ-at-egroups.com> >Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2000 11:32 PM >Subject: Re: [fsj: updated test logo...] > > >> At 04:04 PM 4/12/00 MDT, Michael Shimniok wrote: >> > http://WWW.WAGONEERS.COM/FSJ/new-FSJ-logo.jpg >> > >> >(If this is a late response, sorry, been busy!) >> > >> >Anyway, SWEET!!! This rocks!!! If I can put in an order, >> >I'd like to order 4 of them. Don't change a thing, this one is perfect. >> >Michael >> >> If someone will second and third this design I'll go to press, >> I'm fixing to fly out to Florida Saturday and already have a ton >> of stuff to do before I leave. If I could get the order in with >> what I've already got I could have 'em in stock before I get back. >> >> I'm leaning heavily toward having more than one design, because >> I also like the one with the lettering off to the side. >> >> I have this design ready for the printers... I spent about 12 hours >> on what I've got so far, moving it around a bit would take another >> hour or two to get everything done... I kind of like the way the URL >> goes across the bottom of the FSJ emblem, it adds depth to the image, >> at least in my mind. >> >> I was hoping to order a large quanity this time to get the price >> down, but at this point I'll go with a smaller order and continue >> work on the design... I've got a killer design in work for the >> coffee cups, check the inwork version out at: >> http://WWW.WAGONEERS.COM/FSJ/fsj-j-trucks.jpg >> >> I'm gonna add a wagoneer and a cherokee off to the left... is this >> gonna be cool or what? Chris is the admin I hired last year, he's >> really sharp, and we're having a blast working together. >> >> FWIW, it takes me about 6 months to a year of selling these stickers >> to get my money initial out of them... they kind of trickle out >> of here. :) It's kind of like my AMSOIL sales... enough to buy me a >> lunch every now and then. :) One thing for certain, I can't afford to >> quit the day job. :) >> >> john >> ----------------------------------------------------- >> john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com >> ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! >> Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... >> ----------------------------------------------------- >> >> > - ----------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 22:21:39 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: leaving on a jet airplane... I'll be in Orlando this Saturday... through next Saturday, for a Linux class offered by HP. flying by way of Denver. (I'll be in Denver from 1127A till 1224P... not much time... and I know it's over an hour drive from Denver to the airport... :( On the 22nd I'll be coming back through Denver, arrive 5:03p, leave 8PM. flying United. Enough time for dinner, if you can stomach airport food. I'll have my laptop, it's like I won't even be gone... ;) Gonna meet up with a few folks in Orlando... Drop me an email if you're near Orlando. I'll have Thursday and Friday free, planning on heading over to the coast by Melbourne to visit my sister... john - ----------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 22:24:00 -0700 From: john Subject: Re: [fsj: CB radio] the best position for interstate use is front left, right? because of the ground plane created by the body, it causes the field to head off toward on coming traffic... or have I got it bassakwards? ;) A whip on the roof here is a problem because of branches on the trails... rip it right off... or beat the snickers out of things... :) john At 10:13 PM 4/12/00 PDT, michel balea wrote: >John and Michael S. thank you for the help. > >Mounting the antenna, is pref onto the middle of the roof, magnet or non >magnet mount, so you get the best reflection (our ham tech use some other >words) with the roof. > >Fiberglass is nice but break as you said. > >Metal is better, but if you loose it , it will puncture your tire. So you >have to tie it with a rope attached to some sturdy part on either way of the >roof, if you go magnet... > >thank you, ideas are coming, i am learning! > >Michel >74 wag >______________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > - ----------------------------------------------------------- http://www.WAGONEERS.com/JEEPS/jeep-family-March-2000-1.jpg SuperDawg, SuperPup (the little wagoneer), and Mark's J3000 http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/FSJ_filters.html Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 22:25:54 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: finally, after 200k, a name... I finally came up with a name for the little wagoneer... Superpup. ;) Sure, it took 200,000 miles to figure it out. See the whole family via the link in my sig file. ;) john - ----------------------------------------------------------- http://www.WAGONEERS.com/JEEPS/jeep-family-March-2000-1.jpg SuperDawg, SuperPup (the little wagoneer), and Mark's J3000 http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/FSJ_filters.html Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 23:05:37 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: synthethic question >I've got a question concerning synthetics. I'm getting ready to change all >my fluids (the ones that I can) over to synthetics. I was thinking about >going with Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic brand, and have read that 0W-30 is a >wonderful oil to use, but am wondering if this is a good idea since really >thin oil supposedly leaks more? I have no major leaks, but it is a minor >concern. Also going to use TranX synthetic transmission fluid, synthetic >power steering fluid, gear fluid, etc. Any recommendations, suggestions, or >comments in general are appreciated =) > >Joe Aldridge >'88 Wagoneer Any Synthetic is a good thing. For fuel economy the thinner your lubricants, the better... provided that they have the "strength" to keep metal from contacting metal. Mobil 1 has been a player for a long time, I'm sure they're ok. As my rigs get older I start using a heavier weight of Synthetics... Superdawg, Superpup and my daughters car, all have amsoil 20w50 racing oil in their pans. I have used the series 2000 0w30 in superpup, my little wagoneer... and it did fine, solid oil pressure, no leaks (other than the rear main) and so on. I didn't notice any mileage increase, and no more power than usual... :) Mosel Ludel has written up about the benefits of amsoil products in four wheeler a few years back... water resistance and such... (not even sure if I spelled his name write... ;) I've got a copy around here somewhere... BTW, it is a MYTH that synthetics leak more. It's just that you notice when they do because they tend to cling to the block and areas that are visible. Thinner oil will of course find smaller holes, whether synthetic or petroleum. :) Of course you know I recommend amsoil because of it's long history and experience, not to mention extended drain intervals and so on... I've got spec sheets on my server. But like I said in the beginning ANY synthetic is a good thing. :) ttyl, john - ----------------------------------------------------- http://www.wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/ To order 1-800-956-5695 customer# 283461 Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 23:09:36 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: in memory of Joe http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/JOE-SEGO/ as I find more of his stuff I'll put it up in this directory... (Joe passed away unexpectedly on July 19, 1999) We all miss Joe. He was a special friend to many. john - ----------------------------------------------------------- http://www.WAGONEERS.com/JEEPS/jeep-family-March-2000-1.jpg SuperDawg, SuperPup (the little wagoneer), and Mark's J3000 http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/FSJ_filters.html Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 08:45:55 -0500 From: "Landon Tesar" Subject: fsj: where are you/rusted Subject: Re: fsj: Exhaust leak & P'Blaster At 07:53 PM 4/12/00 -0500, Landon Tesar wrote: >So far, I've messed up three components that should have turned but >didn't - where are you that you're having so much trouble with rusted components? My son and I just went out and swapped the rear shocks on his 67 J3000, it's pretty corroded and dirty, some rust... but he did it himself with normal handtools... Just down here in Austin, TX. The Wagoneer was delivered to Shreveport, LA. I bought it here in Austin. Don't know if it spent any time down on the coast. I may try to trace it back to the original owner. There are a few minor rust spots, but I generally expect it on manifold studs. My dad wants a heavy hauling truck, but there are no J20's in the Truck Trader. Anybody know of one ? He'd probably be willing to go buy a Cummins TD and put it in. - - Landon '89 GW Austin, TX ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 09:13:30 -0500 From: Jamie.L.Phillips-at-us.ul.com Subject: Re: fsj: where are you/rusted Here in Illinois, where I can still see signs of salt residue on roads, I get reasonable results from WD-40 and a small propane torch.(repeated applications) Then again, when I do exhaust work (since I don't have an oxy/acety torch) I get a lot of use out of a small cutting wheel. Sometimes the rust wins and it is cheaper and easier to just replace it (if possible). In fact, after I get my truck running and start doing body work, I am considering completely fiberglassing the underside of the entire body. (besides painting and "Rhino"? coating the bed) Has anybody on the list done or considered this? Later, Jamie "always fighting rust" Phillips '73 J4600 '77 F250 home email: jphil78888-at-aol.com work email: Jamie.L.Phillips-at-us.ul.com "Landon Tesar" cc: Sent by: Subject: fsj: where are you/rusted owner-fsj-at-digest .net 04/13/2000 08:45 AM Please respond to "Landon Tesar" Subject: Re: fsj: Exhaust leak & P'Blaster At 07:53 PM 4/12/00 -0500, Landon Tesar wrote: >So far, I've messed up three components that should have turned but >didn't - where are you that you're having so much trouble with rusted components? My son and I just went out and swapped the rear shocks on his 67 J3000, it's pretty corroded and dirty, some rust... but he did it himself with normal handtools... Just down here in Austin, TX. The Wagoneer was delivered to Shreveport, LA. I bought it here in Austin. Don't know if it spent any time down on the coast. I may try to trace it back to the original owner. There are a few minor rust spots, but I generally expect it on manifold studs. My dad wants a heavy hauling truck, but there are no J20's in the Truck Trader. Anybody know of one ? He'd probably be willing to go buy a Cummins TD and put it in. - - Landon '89 GW Austin, TX ********* Internet E-mail Confidentiality Disclaimer ********** This e-mail message may contain privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you may not disclose, use, disseminate, distribute, copy or rely upon this message or attachment in any way. If you received this e-mail message in error, please delete the e-mail and any attachments and notify Underwriters Laboratories Inc. at e-mail_Disclaimer-at-us.ul.com. UL does not accept liability for any errors, omissions, corruption or virus in the contents of this message or any attachments that arise as a result of e-mail transmission. ************************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 08:40:38 -0700 From: Thunderbird Subject: Re: [fsj: CB radio] john wrote: > > the best position for interstate use is front left, right? > because of the ground plane created by the body, it causes > the field to head off toward on coming traffic... or have > I got it bassakwards? ;) I think the last statement was correct. AIUI (As I understand it), the plane goes out the direction of the body mass from the location of the antenna. IOW, mounting it RR will feed the signal toward the LF...or as you stated above, mounting it LF will feed the signal toward the RR. Of course, I could be the one that "got it bassakwards"! ;] Brian 78 J10-4 4bbl/360/TH400/PTQT/D44/D44 97 Thunderbird LX 4.6 V8/Sport "Four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo - use in that order." - --Ed Howdershelt ______________________________________________________ Get your free web-based email at http://www.xoom.com Birthday? Anniversary? Send FREE animated greeting cards for any occasion at http://greetings.xoom.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 11:55:49 -0400 From: Robert Barry Subject: Re: fsj: Exhaust leak & P'Blaster >So, great idea, folks, decided to go after the exhaust leak probably on >the passenger side where the manifold connects to the down-pipe, since >it was/is misaligned, should be Fixed. Got socket, got extension, got >ratchet. Oh, it's 14mm, not 9/16. OK, get other socket. Oh, it's Well, it *is* a 9/16" bolt, but it's rusted itself down to a 14mm... :( >stuck. Hmm. Well, I'll get the P'Blaster, and let it soak. Soak. Ok, >let's try again, still stuck. I don't want to strip the nut, or twist >off the stud. Hmm. Ok, more soak. I know, let's get impact wrench - >yeah, he'll loosen anything. More soak. 15 min. later: >bam-bam-bam-bam. No budge. 15 seconds of bam-bam. Hey it's >loosening. bam bam. Ok, it's off. Now let's clean up the threads on >the nut and the stud, and put it back on and, hey, this thing is sliding >right on to the stud. Crud. The P'Blaster ate all the threads which >had corroded together away, and it disintegrated when impacted. Well, the PB-Blaster dissolved the rust that would have disintegrated anyway when you went to put that nut back on. PB-Blaster is the best thing for taking off rusted-on nuts that I've ever found. >I'm open to suggestion: >1. Put some new threads on the stud, and put it back together - requires >dropping the exhaust. Would 5/16-18 work ? You could do that, but I suspect that stud is not long for this world; if the threads have rusted, the shank is undoubtedly rusted as well, and it will fail if you tighten it very much. >2. Take the exhaust manifold off and put it on a bench and remove the >studs and replace them - requires manifold removal and finding the right >studs. You can probably remove the studs with the manifold still on the engine; it would require removing the Y-pipe, using a torch to heat up the manifold area in which the stud is stuck, and using a stud-extractor to work out the stud. Removing the manifold carries its own set of hazards, such as breaking off a bolt in the head. As far as replacement, these studs are the standard GM-style studs you'll find pre-packaged in the "HELP!" line at Pep-Boys or the like. I've taken to replacing all old studs with new black-oxide coated studs and using brass nuts with split lockwashers. These brass nuts don't rust to the stud, and don't break off; if anything strips out, it would be the nut, not the stud, which is much easier to remedy. I've never had a problem with this setup loosening at all, either, but when it's time to disassemble the parts, they come right off. ________________________________________________ Bob Barry MailTo:RBarry-at-Providence.Edu http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 11:17:54 -0500 From: Jamie.L.Phillips-at-us.ul.com Subject: fsj: radio waves AIUI (as I understand it): The antenna is the primary source of your transmission. For a straight line antenna, assumed to be infinitly long and discounting reflection and interferance, the radio waves will travel outward in concentric rings around the antenna. When the radio waves encounter a conductive material such as the FSJ body, they are reflected depending on how good the conductor is. There is a really neat experiment that demonstrates this (among other things) that floats a magnet on a flat plane of super conducting material that reflects the electromagnetic waves without using any feedback. So your vehicle will cause a slight "shadow" that may be filled in by other sources of reflection. Similiar to taking a portable radio inside a metal building. Later, Jamie "I didn't fall asleep in all of my classes, just some of them" Phillips '73 J4600 '77 F250 home email: jphil78888-at-aol.com work email: Jamie.L.Phillips-at-us.ul.com ********* Internet E-mail Confidentiality Disclaimer ********** This e-mail message may contain privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you may not disclose, use, disseminate, distribute, copy or rely upon this message or attachment in any way. If you received this e-mail message in error, please delete the e-mail and any attachments and notify Underwriters Laboratories Inc. at e-mail_Disclaimer-at-us.ul.com. UL does not accept liability for any errors, omissions, corruption or virus in the contents of this message or any attachments that arise as a result of e-mail transmission. ************************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 09:56:29 -0700 From: john Subject: Re: fsj: where are you/rusted At 08:45 AM 4/13/00 -0500, Landon Tesar wrote: >My dad wants a heavy hauling truck, but there are no J20's in the Truck >Trader. Anybody know of one ? He'd probably be willing to go buy a >Cummins TD and put it in. >>- Landon >'89 GW >Austin, TX I know of one Cummins TD install in a Wagoneer... very, very tight fit... A j20 won't be any different... Cool idea, but a lot of work. I'd recommend a V-type Diesel, ford, chevy, or whatever... the Cummins is very, very tall, and very, very noisy... and heavy... Not a good swap candidate in my opinion. The 6.5L Turbo Diesel would be, as would the PowerStroke... but I've researched neither extensively... There are J trucks popping up from time to time up here... don't know of any right now. john - ----------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 10:03:08 -0700 From: john Subject: Re: [fsj: CB radio] I'll grab a cup of coffee and head down the hall to a fellow EE type and refresh my feeble memory cells on this one... ;) (Intermec does wireless network stuff as well as barcode, rfid, printers and stuff like that... my buddy on the other end of the building eats this stuff all day long... I'm just taking care of the unix workstations so these guys can design cool stuff... I haven't done any electronic design stuff since about 89 or 90... ;) john At 08:40 AM 4/13/00 -0700, Thunderbird wrote: >john wrote: > > > > the best position for interstate use is front left, right? > > because of the ground plane created by the body, it causes > > the field to head off toward on coming traffic... or have > > I got it bassakwards? ;) > >I think the last statement was correct. AIUI (As I understand it), the plane >goes out the direction of the body mass from the location of the antenna. IOW, >mounting it RR will feed the signal toward the LF...or as you stated above, >mounting it LF will feed the signal toward the RR. > >Of course, I could be the one that "got it bassakwards"! ;] > > >Brian >78 J10-4 4bbl/360/TH400/PTQT/D44/D44 >97 Thunderbird LX 4.6 V8/Sport > >"Four boxes to be used in defense of >liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo - use in >that order." >--Ed Howdershelt - ----------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 14:10:37 EDT From: GrandNational86n-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: Rear Main Seal I am looking to buy an '84 Grand Wagoneer with an '89 360 motor in it. It needs a new rear main seal and I was wondering if the seal can be changed with the motor still in the truck? I don't want to have to pull the engine out to change this seal. Thanks for any advice. Rob Andersen 84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer ---- Hopefully...... 86 Buick Grand National ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 14:20:09 -0400 From: Michael Baxter Subject: fsj: Power steering box Brad Seevers writes: >> At some point in the early/mid 70s?? Jeep switched to the 76 4 bolt bo= x and kept it till the very end. You should already have it in a 78. << Don't hold me to this, but if I had to make an educated guess; I'd say th= e 4 bolt '76" box came into being in '76. That's the 1st year of the redesigned frame and it included a better "flush" steering box mount. The= other candidate was '74 when Jeep 1st use a variable ratio box box, but I= don't know if it was a 3 bolt or 4 bolt version. Michael Baxter, MBaxter-at-Compuserve.com-OR-N7OVD-at-arrl.net http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA on 12-Apr-2000 ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #816 *************************