From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Tue Jul 19 19:17:17 2011 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Wednesday, July 20 2011 Volume 01 : Number 3749 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: fsj: transfer case fluid and driveshaft requirements Re: fsj: leaf spring bushings RE: fsj: transfer case fluid and driveshaft requirements fsj: Leaf Spring bushings Re: fsj: Leaf Spring bushings Re: fsj: Leaf Spring bushings fsj: More leaf spring thoughts Re: fsj: More leaf spring thoughts fsj: FW: 1972 Jeep Commando (Lake Stevens) $5000 FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 18:37:58 -0500 From: Kim Tesar Subject: Re: fsj: transfer case fluid and driveshaft requirements I removed the front driveshaft on the 89 GW from Austin to Alamagorda, NM to get better mileage. No noticeable improvement. - - Landon /////// On Jul 18, 2011, at 6:25 PM, john wrote: > It depends on your transfer case on whether you could pull that > front driveshaft. > > NO MATTER WHICH ONE IT IS NOT A GOOD IDEA... > > You likely have an NP228 or NP229 and if you were to pull that > front driveshaft and 4wheel drive is engaged > that will be the end of forward movement and very likely the end of > your transfer case... well, just the expensive > internal differential/coupler part... don't do it. > > All aluminum transfer cases take ATF - I recommend Amsoil Synthetic > ATF - it's universal. > http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/ - appreciate the business if you > decide to go with Amsoil. > > > If, in the unlikely event that you have an NP208, there's no point > to removing the front driveshaft because you'd have hubs. :) > It also takes ATF. > > The NP228/229 are selectrac tranfer cases - part time/ full time > units... the 228 has a differential coupler (supposedly) and the > 229 has > a viscous coupler - neither would like you operating them without > that driveshaft in place. :) > > there is also an NP219 - used 80-82 - it's a full time unit - > always on... decent units... > > biggest danger to these transfer cases is ignorance of mechanics > who think they use gear lube... not a big deal in an NP208, > but death to the coupler in a 219/228/229. > > john > > ----- > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > -o|||||o- > Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > > > On Mon, 18 Jul 2011, Claude Cohen wrote: > > # > # Hi John, > # > # claude again, > # > # i have en other question, i am planing in changing the tranfer > case fluid , which type should i use on my GW 90 for the transfer > case oil replacement ? > # > # Also i really do not use the 4x4 , and i am planing to remove > the front drive shaft, any recommendation about that, is it good or > bad , will it be a problem down the road with the transfer case > differential ? > # > # thnx > # > # Claude > # > # > Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 08:57:37 -0700 > # > From: john-at-wagoneers.com > # > To: ccohen1-at-hotmail.com > # > CC: fsj-at-digest.net; xj-at-digest.net > # > Subject: Re: Info replacement turn/cruise switch 90 wagoneer > # > > # > when you say '90 wagoneer... are you talking Grand Wagoneer, > or the XJ? there is a difference. > # > the details on column repair should work for both... > # > > # > > # > for the Grand Wagoneer, the details on the tilt repair will > get you close, you'd have to pull > # > the wiring harness out of the column after disconnecting > below, fishing the connector through > # > won't be easy, but should work. > # > > # > http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/tech/Tilt-Column-Repair/steering- > column.html > # > > # > http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/tech/Tilt-Column-Repair/ > # > http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/tech/Tilt-Column-Repair/all-pix.html > # > > # > > # > will share this with the XJ and FSJ list in case there is > another site that has info. > # > > # > john > # > > # > ----- > # > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > # > -o|||||o- > # > Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > # > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > # > http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http:// > fotomeister.us > # > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > # > > # > > # > On Sat, 9 Jul 2011, Claude Cohen wrote: > # > > # > # > # > # Hello John > # > # > # > # after searching for a while on you website i was not able > to find any info on how to replace the turn signal/ cruise switch > on my wagoneer 90 > # > # > # > # Is there a page on your site dedicated to it ? or do you > know where i could find the full procedure for the replacement of > this switch online ? > # > # > # > # Thnx > # > # > # > # Claude > # > # > # ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 18:45:42 -0500 From: Kim Tesar Subject: Re: fsj: leaf spring bushings I don't think they're sagging, but I don't have a reference...the rears have separate coils as helpers... I should get 3/4" of lift in front just from having the bushings replaced, or in place at all. Will look at prices, but it's looking like poly for ease of install and firm response at this point. Time to pull out the manual ! - - Landon /////// On Jul 17, 2011, at 2:46 PM, Jim Blair wrote: > Graphite synthetic blend grease on the poly bushings seems to help > a lot with > noises. It's much stiffer. > Are your springs sagging? New spring packs come with bushings. > Or you could > buy just new main leafs and cut the eyes off the old one and > relegate it to #2 > spring in the pack. > That way you cure 2 issues at the same time. > >> Subject: Re: fsj: leaf spring bushings >> To: ltesar3421-at-sbcglobal.net; fsj-at-digest.net >> From: fullsizejeeps-at-gmail.com >> Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 18:56:54 +0000 >> >> Avoid polyurethane, squeaks and vibrates. >> __john_at_http://wagoneers.com__ >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Kim Tesar >> Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net >> Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 12:59:36 >> To: local Jeep list >> Reply-To: Kim Tesar Subject: fsj: leaf >> spring > bushings >> >> Ok, >> need some enlightenment. I found that the lower shock bushings were >> missing, replaced those. Crawling around under the J10 last night, i >> found that the front spring eye bushings are gone as well. Then >> looked at the other shackle/leaf spring bushings, and they probably >> all need to be replaced. >> RockAuto has a selection from Moog, Raybestos, TRW, BJs has a kit, >> BJ's also has heavy duty shackles with slight lift that are >> attractive. >> What guidance can you give about Polyurethane vs rubber, and any >> brands that are recommended? If I don't get two piece bushings, does >> that mean the springs have to come off and the bushings pressed in? >> This note from ifsja.org helped me understand a little what we're >> looking at: http://www.ifsja.org/tech/suspension/bushings.html >> >> - Landon >> 79 J10 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 17:43:36 -0700 From: Jim Blair Subject: RE: fsj: transfer case fluid and driveshaft requirements I found that the hubs gave me the best fuel economy boost on the highway. Even with the "plugs" you could pull the drive slug out on each side for long trips. Of course doing the wheelbearings with synthetic grease and ensuring the brake calipers aren't dragging helps too! > CC: ccohen1-at-hotmail.com; fsj-at-digest.net > From: ltesar3421-at-sbcglobal.net > Subject: Re: fsj: transfer case fluid and driveshaft requirements > Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 18:37:58 -0500 > To: john-at-wagoneers.com > > I removed the front driveshaft on the 89 GW from Austin to > Alamagorda, NM to get better mileage. No noticeable improvement. > > - Landon > > /////// > On Jul 18, 2011, at 6:25 PM, john wrote: > > > It depends on your transfer case on whether you could pull that > > front driveshaft. > > > > NO MATTER WHICH ONE IT IS NOT A GOOD IDEA... > > > > You likely have an NP228 or NP229 and if you were to pull that > > front driveshaft and 4wheel drive is engaged > > that will be the end of forward movement and very likely the end of > > your transfer case... well, just the expensive > > internal differential/coupler part... don't do it. > > > > All aluminum transfer cases take ATF - I recommend Amsoil Synthetic > > ATF - it's universal. > > http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/ - appreciate the business if you > > decide to go with Amsoil. > > > > > > If, in the unlikely event that you have an NP208, there's no point > > to removing the front driveshaft because you'd have hubs. :) > > It also takes ATF. > > > > The NP228/229 are selectrac tranfer cases - part time/ full time > > units... the 228 has a differential coupler (supposedly) and the > > 229 has > > a viscous coupler - neither would like you operating them without > > that driveshaft in place. :) > > > > there is also an NP219 - used 80-82 - it's a full time unit - > > always on... decent units... > > > > biggest danger to these transfer cases is ignorance of mechanics > > who think they use gear lube... not a big deal in an NP208, > > but death to the coupler in a 219/228/229. > > > > john > > > > ----- > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > -- > > -o|||||o- > > Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > > http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > -- > > > > > > On Mon, 18 Jul 2011, Claude Cohen wrote: > > > > # > > # Hi John, > > # > > # claude again, > > # > > # i have en other question, i am planing in changing the tranfer > > case fluid , which type should i use on my GW 90 for the transfer > > case oil replacement ? > > # > > # Also i really do not use the 4x4 , and i am planing to remove > > the front drive shaft, any recommendation about that, is it good or > > bad , will it be a problem down the road with the transfer case > > differential ? > > # > > # thnx > > # > > # Claude > > # > > # > Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 08:57:37 -0700 > > # > From: john-at-wagoneers.com > > # > To: ccohen1-at-hotmail.com > > # > CC: fsj-at-digest.net; xj-at-digest.net > > # > Subject: Re: Info replacement turn/cruise switch 90 wagoneer > > # > > > # > when you say '90 wagoneer... are you talking Grand Wagoneer, > > or the XJ? there is a difference. > > # > the details on column repair should work for both... > > # > > > # > > > # > for the Grand Wagoneer, the details on the tilt repair will > > get you close, you'd have to pull > > # > the wiring harness out of the column after disconnecting > > below, fishing the connector through > > # > won't be easy, but should work. > > # > > > # > http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/tech/Tilt-Column-Repair/steering- > > column.html > > # > > > # > http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/tech/Tilt-Column-Repair/ > > # > http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/tech/Tilt-Column-Repair/all-pix.html > > # > > > # > > > # > will share this with the XJ and FSJ list in case there is > > another site that has info. > > # > > > # > john > > # > > > # > ----- > > # > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > -- > > # > -o|||||o- > > # > Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > > # > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > > # > http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http:// > > fotomeister.us > > # > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > -- > > # > > > # > > > # > On Sat, 9 Jul 2011, Claude Cohen wrote: > > # > > > # > # > > # > # Hello John > > # > # > > # > # after searching for a while on you website i was not able > > to find any info on how to replace the turn signal/ cruise switch > > on my wagoneer 90 > > # > # > > # > # Is there a page on your site dedicated to it ? or do you > > know where i could find the full procedure for the replacement of > > this switch online ? > > # > # > > # > # Thnx > > # > # > > # > # Claude > > # > # > > # ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 21:38:16 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Wallace Subject: fsj: Leaf Spring bushings I recently did the rear shackle bushings on my Wag. I just ordered the rubber ones from BJ's. Rubber will be softer and quieter (and cheaper), but won't last for all eternity. Mine were original which is to say 30 years old and 235,000 miles showing. I have new front shackle bushings on order from BJ's. Same rubber ones I used in the rear. I ordered sway bar bushings as well...I think I am mixing and matching polyurethane and rubber on the sway bar. And then I ordered BJ's engine and transmission mount kit all in polyurethane because over the years I have broken about four driver side engine mounts. I don't mind noisy, squeaky, rattly cars that shudder when they launch, click around the corner and so on. I prefer the noisy brake pads to the quiet ones. They stop you better. By the time I am done with my current little project I will have all new rubber everywhere in the car. Getting the bushings out...I think you could do it with a big vice with the proper press plates. I attempted it on my work bench and got them to budge, but a nervous system injury has left me with less strength and more pain than I'd like in my shoulders. So I took them to my local NAPA guy and he pressed them in for like $5. $5 is way cheaper than a missed day of work or a trip to the emergency room or a session of physical therapy, so money well spent. Getting the leaf springs out is a dirty, nasty, unpleasant job and you may have to cut the eye bolts. I have a bunch of pointers on that if you are going to get into that job...I think i have done that job three or four times. For the amount of energy required I'd spend the bucks and do the lift. Mark Wallace 81 Wag ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 00:48:19 -0500 From: Kim Tesar Subject: Re: fsj: Leaf Spring bushings Thanks for all the advice. I went for the poly kit from BJ's for the front. Also got a Prothane trans mount, transfer case mount bushings, and leaf spring pads from Team GW. I need to replace body bushings before I go thinking about suspension lifts.... All the emissions are done. With all the built in vacuum leaks (PCV, Evap Canister, EGR?) no wonder these engines ran poorly and developed oil leaks over time, if not well maintained and tuned. For example, the filter on the bottom of the evap canister from the junkyard was absolutely filthy and fell apart in my hand, but air is coming into the intake stream through this. I won't leave that hooked up very long, I need all the vacuum I can get. Will let you know how it goes with the state inspection. If anyone has a spare thermal vacuum switch (the light blue disc that mounts in the side of the air cleaner) I'm interested, the ports are melted on mine. - - Landon 79 J10 //////////////// On Jul 18, 2011, at 8:38 PM, Mark Wallace wrote: > I recently did the rear shackle bushings on my Wag. I just ordered > the rubber > ones from BJ's. Rubber will be softer and quieter (and cheaper), > but won't > last for all eternity. Mine were original which is to say 30 years > old and > 235,000 miles showing. I have new front shackle bushings on order > from BJ's. > Same rubber ones I used in the rear. I ordered sway bar bushings as > well...I > think I am mixing and matching polyurethane and rubber on the sway > bar. And > then I ordered BJ's engine and transmission mount kit all in > polyurethane > because over the years I have broken about four driver side engine > mounts. I > don't mind noisy, squeaky, rattly cars that shudder when they > launch, click > around the corner and so on. I prefer the noisy brake pads to the > quiet ones. > They stop you better. By the time I am done with my current little > project I > will have all new rubber everywhere in the car. > > Getting the bushings out...I think you could do it with a big vice > with the > proper press plates. I attempted it on my work bench and got them > to budge, > but a nervous system injury has left me with less strength and more > pain than > I'd like in my shoulders. So I took them to my local NAPA guy and > he pressed > them in for like $5. $5 is way cheaper than a missed day of work or > a trip to > the emergency room or a session of physical therapy, so money well > spent. > > Getting the leaf springs out is a dirty, nasty, unpleasant job and > you may > have to cut the eye bolts. I have a bunch of pointers on that if > you are going > to get into that job...I think i have done that job three or four > times. For > the amount of energy required I'd spend the bucks and do the lift. > > Mark Wallace > 81 Wag ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 23:24:38 -0700 From: Michel Balea Subject: Re: fsj: Leaf Spring bushings 2X Getting the old bushing out .... torch works best.... as for removing old front springs... i cut the bolt off.... too much rust at 300K or 4 years ago.... of course 3 weeks later I broke the leaf springs.... so it was easier to install the replacements from BJ's. Michel On Mon, Jul 18, 2011 at 6:38 PM, Mark Wallace wrote: > > > Getting the bushings out...I think you could do it with a big vice with the > proper press plates. I attempted it on my work bench and got them to budge, > but a nervous system injury has left me with less strength and more pain > than > I'd like in my shoulders. So I took them to my local NAPA guy and he > pressed > them in for like $5. $5 is way cheaper than a missed day of work or a trip > to > the emergency room or a session of physical therapy, so money well spent. > > Getting the leaf springs out is a dirty, nasty, unpleasant job and you may > have to cut the eye bolts. I have a bunch of pointers on that if you are > going > to get into that job...I think i have done that job three or four times. > For > the amount of energy required I'd spend the bucks and do the lift. > > Mark Wallace > 81 Wag ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 10:00:39 -0600 From: "wallacem7-at-aol.com" Subject: fsj: More leaf spring thoughts For leaf spring removal usually a few of the bolts are polite and a few are not. Something I have had some luck with is grinding the heads off the bolts and then drawing them out by tightening the nut over a series of spacers. I did this with a monster breaker bar some years back (and two hernias and one nerve injury ago) and I did it after all the injuries with the impact wrench. The impact wrench is way easier. I had some junkyard springs for quite a few years that had been torched out and the heat damaged the metal. Most of the leaves eventually broke and the springs collapsed around the eyes. Right now Cap Scrap is paying ten cents a pound for steel. So how bad is emissions in Texas? What is the cut off year? Texas is on the list for grad skool, but if they won't tolerate my cars then they go off the list. Mark Wallace 81 Wag Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 09:43:51 -0700 From: Michel Balea Subject: Re: fsj: More leaf spring thoughts The first time I worked on the front springs... I had the same hardship..... big breaker bar, then I sawed off the bolt body by slide a hacksaw blade between the shackle and the eyebolt, I then managed to extract the bushing.... by whatever mean..... that was in the early 90's, no internet, no group support.... As for emissions, it is a race of being ahead of the smog police. I believe that NV has started to check all diesel vehicles lower than 10k lbs GVWR.... Cal will certainly follow.... The best is to find that pristine pre-68 wagoneer.... I got one mothballed in low humidity area.... just in case.... Those unabused or nicely rebuilt and modified wagoneers show up from time to time.... in fact now there is a know how connection, and sometimes I get a call for a good catch, but I am stocked up. The last one was a 66 w a chevy 390ish cid.... Dana 20.... M On Tue, Jul 19, 2011 at 9:00 AM, wallacem7-at-aol.com wrote: > For leaf spring removal usually a few of the bolts are polite and a few are > not. Something I have had some luck with is grinding the heads off the > bolts > and then drawing them out by tightening the nut over a series of spacers. I > did this with a monster breaker bar some years back (and two hernias and > one > nerve injury ago) and I did it after all the injuries with the impact > wrench. The impact wrench is way easier. I had some junkyard springs for > quite a few years that had been torched out and the heat damaged the metal. > Most of the leaves eventually broke and the springs collapsed around the > eyes. Right now Cap Scrap is paying ten cents a pound for steel. > > So how bad is emissions in Texas? What is the cut off year? Texas is on the > list for grad skool, but if they won't tolerate my cars then they go off > the > list. > > Mark Wallace > 81 Wag > > Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 19:16:24 -0700 From: "Joe Hughes" Subject: fsj: FW: 1972 Jeep Commando (Lake Stevens) $5000 This looks like a fun ride! Joe Hughes Feed: craigslist seattle | all for sale / wanted search "dodge diesel" Posted on: Sunday, July 17, 2011 8:35 PM Author: webmaster-at-craigslist.org Subject: 1972 Jeep Commando (Lake Stevens) $5000 1972 Jeep Commando sitting on a 1983 K5 frame. 37inch Military H1 tires. 94 dodge cummins turbo diesel powering this awesome ride. Needs front Hubs and bearings. Everything else is great!! $5000 obo. Please email rucus1982-at-gmail.com - -- Posted from Craigslist Mobile for iPhone http://itunes.apple.com/app/id430667358?mt=8 * Location: Lake Stevens * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests View article... ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #3749 **************************