From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Thu Aug 18 08:20:10 2011 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Thursday, August 18 2011 Volume 01 : Number 3769 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: 115107539182042919519 shared an album with you. Re: fsj: 1989 GW purchase for a restoration project Re: fsj: 1989 GW purchase for a restoration project Re: fsj: 1989 GW purchase for a restoration project Re: fsj: 1989 GW purchase for a restoration project fsj: The final part out in Seattle commences! fsj: Ken's New Wag fsj: Willys firetruck Re: fsj: Ken's New Wag Re: fsj: Ken's New Wag FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 03:01:37 +0000 From: 115107539182042919519 Subject: fsj: 115107539182042919519 shared an album with you. Ken's 1989 GW Purchase https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=104534363165030459929&target=ALBUM&id=5641297036397108289&authkey=Gv1sRgCKbvg8Xlh9-_GA&feat=email [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of picasaweblogo-en_US.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of email.jpg] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 20:13:49 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: fsj: 1989 GW purchase for a restoration project I've given up on wagoneers... "omega" was my last... oh, they're nice rigs, especially with a Diesel... but after 20+ years of FSJ ownership I have developed the dreaded TailgateWindowPhobia... my son and friends have tried to help me overcome this dreaded condition... but I just can't get over it... I would go in through the back seat to put stuff in the back, fearing that if I rolled that window down it wouldn't come back up... sure, Omega had more trouble with the sunroof than the rear window, and the last four FSJs were all fine... but I think the thing that sealed my fate was that pretty white narrow track Cherokee... I worked all weekend on replacing every seal and part in the tailgate, it was perfect... finished moving all my goodies from superdawg to my new FSJ... was going to sell superdawg and have him shipped to belgium for a princely sum... but on the maiden voyage of that pretty narrow track I rolled the window down, loaded the trash can in the back, drove up to the top of the driveway, unloaded, then went to roll the window up and it either fell into the back or failed to work... I went back down the drive, canceled the sale of superdawg, put all my goodies back on superdawg and promptly sold the white narrow track... my first fsj was a '67 wagoneer... manual rear window... it was cursed as well, but not quite as bad... old blue was marginal in the rear window department... and omega never missed a beat, and neither has the '85 GW that lives in my driveway... but I just can't bring myself to another wagoneer... the XJ and WJ hatches make more sense... someday someone will come up with a hatch mod for the wagoneer and I may have another... the panel doors in the back would be nice, but the one I had was horribly maintainted and rattled... superdawg has a nice simple tailgate... you put a hook through the openings... no levers, no fuss, no muss... :) and the tailgate doesn't come off... just hangs down on chains... john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Wed, 17 Aug 2011, Ken Gaines wrote: # They must be hidden in an account somewhere. I'll have to download them and # post them in my own account. # # Seller also sent me a couple of videos. One had the engine starting up. The # temp gauge showed cold and I couldn't hear a ticking sound that threw up any # red flags at all. The other video showed the rear dome light and the command # console working. I was wrong about the dome light missing. It is there. # # The rear window is apparently off the regulator. It also looks like the # whole lock cylinder and tailgate switch are missing. More stuff to buy and # put together. I hope the regulator is actually there. That's half the battle # won if it is there. # On Aug 17, 2011 9:35 PM, "T.Halmshaw" wrote: # > I see no images :( # > # > # > # > # > At 10:01 AM 18/08/2011, you wrote: # >> # http://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewer#album/104534363165030459929/5641297036397108289 # >> # >>Picture album supplied by seller. Review and comment as you guys feel # >>appropriate. # >>On Aug 17, 2011 6:50 PM, "Michel Balea" wrote: # >> > # >> > Neat, for $1050, this is a score for a diesel. # >> > # >> > for the window, check for the ground first, some of the wire may be a # bit # >>oxidized. Mine does not roll up well on 12v, but is fine when the engine # is # >>running which is 14.4 volts. # >> > # >> > The trany leak(s) can be anything such as the oil pan and gasket being # too # >>tight or the pan not being flat, then the NSS (neutral safety switch) # which # >>is plastic, being cooked up by the hot trany fluid, and the bad case is # the # >>shift shaft selector seal.... and worst, because unless you have a body # >>lift kit, it is impossible to access.... and that wagoneer has a body # lift. # >> > # >> > As for A/C vent, give us the color and we can grab one next time one of # us # >>find a GW at the junkyard... but they are getting rarer.... # >> > # >> > cheers # >> > # >> > Michel # >> > # >> > # >> > On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 1:52 PM, Ken Gaines # wrote: # >> >> # >> >> Looks like I got that GW after all. I got it for $1050 off eBay. It is # >>being # >> >> picked up in Oklahoma tomorrow and I will get it here in Shreveport on # >>Labor # >> >> Day. The pics shown by the eBay seller were very informative. The # carpets # >> >> look surprisingly good all around. PO states he has been driving it # >>around # >> >> for about a week now and all seems well save for a nasty tranny fluid # >>leak # >> >> that I will fix before I drive it home. I'll check his adjustment on # the # >> >> kickdown linkage as I am pretty sure he did it wrong after he did the # >>MC2150 # >> >> carb rebuild. (Sounds like a good candidate for a tranny overhaul # right # >>off # >> >> the bat. Glad I can do this myself.) He said the t-case linkage was # >> >> disconnected for an unknown reason. Comments anyone? Rebuild or # replace # >>with # >> >> salvage yard unit? Could this just be the vacuum motor needing to be # >> >> replaced? The engine ticks a little on start-up but settles down # pretty # >> >> quickly from what I was told. Maybe a stuck lifter? The headliner # >>definitely # >> >> needs to be replaced as all of the fabric is gone. It didn't even # appear # >>to # >> >> have the rear dome light assembly from the pics he sent. Other issues # >> >> include a badly cracked dashboard pad and the cracked driver seat # >>leather. # >> >> There is some rust on the rear quarter panels as I would expect. I # >>haven't # >> >> had a chance to look for frame rust behind the gas tank but if it is # >>there # >> >> it will get fixed. The clear coat on the hood is all but completely # gone. # >> >> the driver's door is dented up some but I am sure a decent body shop # >>could # >> >> fix it while they are repainting the thing. PO also states that the # >>driver's # >> >> window will not roll up on its own. Sounds like a rotten window motor # to # >>me. # >> >> I wonder if I could free it up with a little WD-40 and a few # educational # >> >> taps with a hammer to the side. He also says all of the A/C hardware # is # >> >> there as is the cruise control stuff. One of the pictures showed a # messed # >>up # >> >> A/C vent. Anyone know of a good source for these? I looked online some # >>and # >> >> couldn't find a replacement specific to the GW. # >> >> # >> >> One neat little add-on...he said another PO had included a 3rd row of # >> >> seating for the GW. I wonder how he did this. I can't wait to see how # it # >> >> goes in the back. Might be a good addition for kid hauling even though # it # >> >> isn't factory and would detract from a full factory restoration. # >> >> # >> >> All in all, this doesn't seem like too bad of a purchase. IMHO it is a # >>great # >> >> base vehicle to use a start for a complete restoration. At first # glance # >>it # >> >> looks like the cosmetic issues should be pretty easy to iron out.The # wife # >> >> even said she might want to drive it as a DD if it were fixed up well # >> >> enough. I don't know if I could let her do that...she might inherit my # >>2008 # >> >> JK Sahara 4-dr on 5" of lift and 35" meats. # >> >> # >> >> Comments are welcomed. # >> >> # >> >> -- # >> >> Ken Gaines # >> >> Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman # >> >> Red River Oil & Gas, LLC # >> >> (318) 227-4870 Office # >> >> (318) 422-5731 Mobile # >> >> arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com # >> >> http://www.rrog.net # >> # >>__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus # >>signature database 6387 (20110817) __________ # >> # >>The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. # >> # >>http://www.eset.com # ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 20:21:19 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: fsj: 1989 GW purchase for a restoration project Diesel? did I miss something? :) ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Wed, 17 Aug 2011, Michel Balea wrote: # Neat, for $1050, this is a score for a diesel. # # for the window, check for the ground first, some of the wire may be a bit # oxidized. Mine does not roll up well on 12v, but is fine when the engine is # running which is 14.4 volts. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 22:26:06 -0500 From: Ken Gaines Subject: Re: fsj: 1989 GW purchase for a restoration project No, it isn't a diesel and I don't see any evidence of a body lift on it either. Looks like a bone stock 1989 GW with an AMC 360 up front. Pretty standard. Yes it needs a little help in the cosmetics department but aside from that it looks pretyt solid...and for $1050 it was REALLY hard to beat. On Aug 17, 2011 10:21 PM, "john" wrote: > Diesel? > > did I miss something? :) > > > ----- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all > Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > On Wed, 17 Aug 2011, Michel Balea wrote: > > # Neat, for $1050, this is a score for a diesel. > # > # for the window, check for the ground first, some of the wire may be a bit > # oxidized. Mine does not roll up well on 12v, but is fine when the engine is > # running which is 14.4 volts. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 20:41:29 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: fsj: 1989 GW purchase for a restoration project they are nice rigs... the torque on those 360s is "consistent"... not fast, just steady... the 360's I've had went the same speed whether there was 5,000lbs behind it or empty... ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Wed, 17 Aug 2011, Ken Gaines wrote: # No, it isn't a diesel and I don't see any evidence of a body lift on it # either. Looks like a bone stock 1989 GW with an AMC 360 up front. Pretty # standard. Yes it needs a little help in the cosmetics department but aside # from that it looks pretyt solid...and for $1050 it was REALLY hard to beat. # On Aug 17, 2011 10:21 PM, "john" wrote: # > Diesel? # > # > did I miss something? :) # > # > # > ----- # > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ # > -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all # > Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold # > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 # > http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us # > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ # > # > # > On Wed, 17 Aug 2011, Michel Balea wrote: # > # > # Neat, for $1050, this is a score for a diesel. # > # # > # for the window, check for the ground first, some of the wire may be a # bit # > # oxidized. Mine does not roll up well on 12v, but is fine when the engine # is # > # running which is 14.4 volts. # ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 20:50:27 -0700 From: Jim Blair Subject: fsj: The final part out in Seattle commences! '76 J10 townside shortbox Tailgate and tail lights $200 (fits '73 to '88 Jtrucks) 290 motor from a '69 Rebel $200 Complete front clip '91 Cherokee $100 w/o the bumper (other parts will be posted later) Need any other parts? Jim Blair, Lynnwood, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 00:41:29 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Wallace Subject: fsj: Ken's New Wag Ken - Welcome to the list. Lotsa thoughts. I have had my Wag for over 20 years and it has been in my family for almost 30. The rear window off the regulator. You really can't be a proper Wagoneer owner without having fixed this at least once. It is highly probable that the channel has rusted out. No biggie. Order a new one from BJ's Off Road and glue the old glass in with butyl windshield adhesive. Did that to mine in the 90's and it is still good. Also the channel is held to the regulator with some clips that don't always hold together very well. I took the clips off and drilled and threaded some holes in the regulator pins. Much less trouble. Also did that in the 1990's. Frame rust. I have done that repair and I have a bunch of pictures of it on my webshots page. http://community.webshots.com/user/GenXMark I think they are in the album labeled "Wag" Lot of cutting, lot of grinding, lot of welding, lot of working outside in the snow. If it is not rusted I would suggested pulling the gas tank, cleaning everything really well, consider replacing the fuel and brake pipes while you are in there cleaning it up and painting it with something...brush on Rust-o-leum, POR 15 or if you are so inclined proper auto paint like PPG Concept or DuPont Chroma System. Tranny. Get that kickdown working before you drive too far. Without it you will tear up the second/reverse band and definitely be in for a tranny rebuild. Even if you have to tie it all back together with zip ties to make the trip home make sure it kicks into second when you floor it. For the leak also check the cooling lines. They can come loose and crack. It is also possible that someone over torqued the pan bending it and making it very hard to get to not leak. You actually can straighten them. My solution however was a cast aluminum deep pan. Also you can't use gasket adhesive (e.g. permatex) on the tranny pan as the tranny fluid eats it up and then it clogs the filter. I have found that the gasket and filter kits from Napa are consistently good quality. T-Case. Get the linkage working first and see if the t-case is still good. It probably is. Also make sure it has oil in it. Or I think on that one it takes tranny fluid. More than one of us has had them leak dry due to bad seals. Daily Driver...I used mine as a daily driver from 1991 to about 2003 and occasionally after that until 2006. I drove it across the country several times one time driving form Boston Massachusetts to Portland and Seattle. I put 600 miles a week on it in the 1999-2000 school year (still in college at the time). At the time it was a very livable daily driver. I don't think I would enjoy driving it across the country again, but I don't like driving anymore. Mark Wallace 81 Wag 235,000 Miles ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 01:19:17 -0700 From: Jim Blair Subject: fsj: Willys firetruck http://theamcforum.com/forum/willys-fire-truck_topic31988.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 09:47:29 -0500 From: Ken Gaines Subject: Re: fsj: Ken's New Wag Thanks for the advice, Mark! As of now, the main goal is to get the thing home. I talked to the PO several times yesterday. He even sent me some videos of the thing starting up and of the overhead console that actually works. Once I get it home I'll start really digging into it. I may just go ahead and pull the engine and tranny/t-case just for a good pressure washing and clean-up along with a good once-over for good measure. I doubt the PO has ever adjusted the tranny bands OR checked the t-case fluid so while I am in the process of checking things out both of those tasks will be done. If the engine compression checks out I'll probably throw a coat of paint on the thing while I have it all out of the truck and cleaned up. Now might even be a good time to go ahead and change the oil pan gasket and the rear main crank seal. The deep aluminum tranny pan is a good idea. Where did you find it? Does it interfere with the front driveshaft? Any ground clearance issues? I remember when I put the 727 in my CJ7 the front driveshaft came dangerously close to the front servo housing in the tranny. At full passenger side suspension droop the driveshaft was close enough to be a cause for major concerns. >From the pics, it looks like the linkage that is disco'd is the LO/HI range. I hope all the parts are there to get it back together. The vacuum motor is still connected but it is all covered with grease and other assorted nasty. On 8/17/11, Mark Wallace wrote: > Ken - Welcome to the list. Lotsa thoughts. I have had my Wag for over 20 > years > and it has been in my family for almost 30. > > The rear window off the regulator. You really can't be a proper Wagoneer > owner > without having fixed this at least once. It is highly probable that the > channel has rusted out. No biggie. Order a new one from BJ's Off Road and > glue > the old glass in with butyl windshield adhesive. Did that to mine in the > 90's > and it is still good. Also the channel is held to the regulator with some > clips that don't always hold together very well. I took the clips off and > drilled and threaded some holes in the regulator pins. Much less trouble. > Also > did that in the 1990's. > > Frame rust. I have done that repair and I have a bunch of pictures of it on > my > webshots page. > > http://community.webshots.com/user/GenXMark > > I think they are in the album labeled "Wag" > > Lot of cutting, lot of grinding, lot of welding, lot of working outside in > the > snow. If it is not rusted I would suggested pulling the gas tank, cleaning > everything really well, consider replacing the fuel and brake pipes while > you > are in there cleaning it up and painting it with something...brush on > Rust-o-leum, POR 15 or if you are so inclined proper auto paint like PPG > Concept or DuPont Chroma System. > > Tranny. Get that kickdown working before you drive too far. Without it you > will tear up the second/reverse band and definitely be in for a tranny > rebuild. Even if you have to tie it all back together with zip ties to make > the trip home make sure it kicks into second when you floor it. For the leak > also check the cooling lines. They can come loose and crack. It is also > possible that someone over torqued the pan bending it and making it very > hard > to get to not leak. You actually can straighten them. My solution however > was > a cast aluminum deep pan. Also you can't use gasket adhesive (e.g. permatex) > on the tranny pan as the tranny fluid eats it up and then it clogs the > filter. > I have found that the gasket and filter kits from Napa are consistently good > quality. > > T-Case. Get the linkage working first and see if the t-case is still good. > It > probably is. Also make sure it has oil in it. Or I think on that one it > takes > tranny fluid. More than one of us has had them leak dry due to bad seals. > > Daily Driver...I used mine as a daily driver from 1991 to about 2003 and > occasionally after that until 2006. I drove it across the country several > times one time driving form Boston Massachusetts to Portland and Seattle. I > put 600 miles a week on it in the 1999-2000 school year (still in college at > the time). At the time it was a very livable daily driver. I don't think I > would enjoy driving it across the country again, but I don't like driving > anymore. > > Mark Wallace > 81 Wag > 235,000 Miles > - -- Ken Gaines Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman Red River Oil & Gas, LLC (318) 227-4870 Office (318) 422-5731 Mobile arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com http://www.rrog.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 10:19:30 -0500 From: Ken Gaines Subject: Re: fsj: Ken's New Wag Another question... The A/C parts are all there as far as I can tell. The engine video that PO sent to me showed an intact compressor and hoses. Are there any other pitfalls (other than freon leaks) that I need to look out for? How well do these systems agree with an R-134 retrofit? I know the seals and such have to be replaced. What about replacing the receiver/drier too? I remember my last Waggy had a pretty good A/C system. With this Wag, having the A/C work is a must. It will likely be used as a road warrior and kid hauler. With temps soaring over 100F everyday here in Louisiana for the last couple of months the A/C is gonna have to work. On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 9:47 AM, Ken Gaines wrote: > Thanks for the advice, Mark! As of now, the main goal is to get the > thing home. I talked to the PO several times yesterday. He even sent > me some videos of the thing starting up and of the overhead console > that actually works. Once I get it home I'll start really digging into > it. I may just go ahead and pull the engine and tranny/t-case just for > a good pressure washing and clean-up along with a good once-over for > good measure. I doubt the PO has ever adjusted the tranny bands OR > checked the t-case fluid so while I am in the process of checking > things out both of those tasks will be done. If the engine compression > checks out I'll probably throw a coat of paint on the thing while I > have it all out of the truck and cleaned up. Now might even be a good > time to go ahead and change the oil pan gasket and the rear main crank > seal. > > The deep aluminum tranny pan is a good idea. Where did you find it? > Does it interfere with the front driveshaft? Any ground clearance > issues? I remember when I put the 727 in my CJ7 the front driveshaft > came dangerously close to the front servo housing in the tranny. At > full passenger side suspension droop the driveshaft was close enough > to be a cause for major concerns. > > From the pics, it looks like the linkage that is disco'd is the LO/HI > range. I hope all the parts are there to get it back together. The > vacuum motor is still connected but it is all covered with grease and > other assorted nasty. > > On 8/17/11, Mark Wallace wrote: > > Ken - Welcome to the list. Lotsa thoughts. I have had my Wag for over 20 > > years > > and it has been in my family for almost 30. > > > > The rear window off the regulator. You really can't be a proper Wagoneer > > owner > > without having fixed this at least once. It is highly probable that the > > channel has rusted out. No biggie. Order a new one from BJ's Off Road and > > glue > > the old glass in with butyl windshield adhesive. Did that to mine in the > > 90's > > and it is still good. Also the channel is held to the regulator with some > > clips that don't always hold together very well. I took the clips off and > > drilled and threaded some holes in the regulator pins. Much less trouble. > > Also > > did that in the 1990's. > > > > Frame rust. I have done that repair and I have a bunch of pictures of it > on > > my > > webshots page. > > > > http://community.webshots.com/user/GenXMark > > > > I think they are in the album labeled "Wag" > > > > Lot of cutting, lot of grinding, lot of welding, lot of working outside > in > > the > > snow. If it is not rusted I would suggested pulling the gas tank, > cleaning > > everything really well, consider replacing the fuel and brake pipes while > > you > > are in there cleaning it up and painting it with something...brush on > > Rust-o-leum, POR 15 or if you are so inclined proper auto paint like PPG > > Concept or DuPont Chroma System. > > > > Tranny. Get that kickdown working before you drive too far. Without it > you > > will tear up the second/reverse band and definitely be in for a tranny > > rebuild. Even if you have to tie it all back together with zip ties to > make > > the trip home make sure it kicks into second when you floor it. For the > leak > > also check the cooling lines. They can come loose and crack. It is also > > possible that someone over torqued the pan bending it and making it very > > hard > > to get to not leak. You actually can straighten them. My solution however > > was > > a cast aluminum deep pan. Also you can't use gasket adhesive (e.g. > permatex) > > on the tranny pan as the tranny fluid eats it up and then it clogs the > > filter. > > I have found that the gasket and filter kits from Napa are consistently > good > > quality. > > > > T-Case. Get the linkage working first and see if the t-case is still > good. > > It > > probably is. Also make sure it has oil in it. Or I think on that one it > > takes > > tranny fluid. More than one of us has had them leak dry due to bad seals. > > > > Daily Driver...I used mine as a daily driver from 1991 to about 2003 and > > occasionally after that until 2006. I drove it across the country several > > times one time driving form Boston Massachusetts to Portland and Seattle. > I > > put 600 miles a week on it in the 1999-2000 school year (still in college > at > > the time). At the time it was a very livable daily driver. I don't think > I > > would enjoy driving it across the country again, but I don't like driving > > anymore. > > > > Mark Wallace > > 81 Wag > > 235,000 Miles > > > > > -- > Ken Gaines > Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman > Red River Oil & Gas, LLC > (318) 227-4870 Office > (318) 422-5731 Mobile > arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com > http://www.rrog.net > - -- Ken Gaines Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman Red River Oil & Gas, LLC (318) 227-4870 Office (318) 422-5731 Mobile arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com http://www.rrog.net ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #3769 **************************