From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Thu Aug 18 09:04:34 2011 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Thursday, August 18 2011 Volume 01 : Number 3770 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: fsj: Ken's New Wag RE: fsj: Ken's New Wag Re: fsj: Ken's New Wag Re: fsj: Ken's New Wag FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 08:29:23 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: fsj: Ken's New Wag there are kits with compatible oil for conversion, I've done several without changing the dryer or any rings... various makes and models... R134 is nasty stuff, R12 is so much better... and safer, more inert... ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Thu, 18 Aug 2011, Ken Gaines wrote: # Another question... # The A/C parts are all there as far as I can tell. The engine video that PO # sent to me showed an intact compressor and hoses. Are there any other # pitfalls (other than freon leaks) that I need to look out for? How well do # these systems agree with an R-134 retrofit? I know the seals and such have # to be replaced. What about replacing the receiver/drier too? I remember my # last Waggy had a pretty good A/C system. With this Wag, having the A/C work # is a must. It will likely be used as a road warrior and kid hauler. With # temps soaring over 100F everyday here in Louisiana for the last couple of # months the A/C is gonna have to work. # # On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 9:47 AM, Ken Gaines wrote: # # > Thanks for the advice, Mark! As of now, the main goal is to get the # > thing home. I talked to the PO several times yesterday. He even sent # > me some videos of the thing starting up and of the overhead console # > that actually works. Once I get it home I'll start really digging into # > it. I may just go ahead and pull the engine and tranny/t-case just for # > a good pressure washing and clean-up along with a good once-over for # > good measure. I doubt the PO has ever adjusted the tranny bands OR # > checked the t-case fluid so while I am in the process of checking # > things out both of those tasks will be done. If the engine compression # > checks out I'll probably throw a coat of paint on the thing while I # > have it all out of the truck and cleaned up. Now might even be a good # > time to go ahead and change the oil pan gasket and the rear main crank # > seal. # > # > The deep aluminum tranny pan is a good idea. Where did you find it? # > Does it interfere with the front driveshaft? Any ground clearance # > issues? I remember when I put the 727 in my CJ7 the front driveshaft # > came dangerously close to the front servo housing in the tranny. At # > full passenger side suspension droop the driveshaft was close enough # > to be a cause for major concerns. # > # > From the pics, it looks like the linkage that is disco'd is the LO/HI # > range. I hope all the parts are there to get it back together. The # > vacuum motor is still connected but it is all covered with grease and # > other assorted nasty. # > # > On 8/17/11, Mark Wallace wrote: # > > Ken - Welcome to the list. Lotsa thoughts. I have had my Wag for over 20 # > > years # > > and it has been in my family for almost 30. # > > # > > The rear window off the regulator. You really can't be a proper Wagoneer # > > owner # > > without having fixed this at least once. It is highly probable that the # > > channel has rusted out. No biggie. Order a new one from BJ's Off Road and # > > glue # > > the old glass in with butyl windshield adhesive. Did that to mine in the # > > 90's # > > and it is still good. Also the channel is held to the regulator with some # > > clips that don't always hold together very well. I took the clips off and # > > drilled and threaded some holes in the regulator pins. Much less trouble. # > > Also # > > did that in the 1990's. # > > # > > Frame rust. I have done that repair and I have a bunch of pictures of it # > on # > > my # > > webshots page. # > > # > > http://community.webshots.com/user/GenXMark # > > # > > I think they are in the album labeled "Wag" # > > # > > Lot of cutting, lot of grinding, lot of welding, lot of working outside # > in # > > the # > > snow. If it is not rusted I would suggested pulling the gas tank, # > cleaning # > > everything really well, consider replacing the fuel and brake pipes while # > > you # > > are in there cleaning it up and painting it with something...brush on # > > Rust-o-leum, POR 15 or if you are so inclined proper auto paint like PPG # > > Concept or DuPont Chroma System. # > > # > > Tranny. Get that kickdown working before you drive too far. Without it # > you # > > will tear up the second/reverse band and definitely be in for a tranny # > > rebuild. Even if you have to tie it all back together with zip ties to # > make # > > the trip home make sure it kicks into second when you floor it. For the # > leak # > > also check the cooling lines. They can come loose and crack. It is also # > > possible that someone over torqued the pan bending it and making it very # > > hard # > > to get to not leak. You actually can straighten them. My solution however # > > was # > > a cast aluminum deep pan. Also you can't use gasket adhesive (e.g. # > permatex) # > > on the tranny pan as the tranny fluid eats it up and then it clogs the # > > filter. # > > I have found that the gasket and filter kits from Napa are consistently # > good # > > quality. # > > # > > T-Case. Get the linkage working first and see if the t-case is still # > good. # > > It # > > probably is. Also make sure it has oil in it. Or I think on that one it # > > takes # > > tranny fluid. More than one of us has had them leak dry due to bad seals. # > > # > > Daily Driver...I used mine as a daily driver from 1991 to about 2003 and # > > occasionally after that until 2006. I drove it across the country several # > > times one time driving form Boston Massachusetts to Portland and Seattle. # > I # > > put 600 miles a week on it in the 1999-2000 school year (still in college # > at # > > the time). At the time it was a very livable daily driver. I don't think # > I # > > would enjoy driving it across the country again, but I don't like driving # > > anymore. # > > # > > Mark Wallace # > > 81 Wag # > > 235,000 Miles # > > # > # > # > -- # > Ken Gaines # > Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman # > Red River Oil & Gas, LLC # > (318) 227-4870 Office # > (318) 422-5731 Mobile # > arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com # > http://www.rrog.net # > # # # # ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 08:32:25 -0700 From: Jim Blair Subject: RE: fsj: Ken's New Wag I would wash it down while still in the rig (coin op places here for doing that) and see if you can determine where any oil is currently coming from. Make sure the PCV system is functioning like it should. > Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 09:47:29 -0500 > Subject: Re: fsj: Ken's New Wag > From: arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com > To: wallacem7-at-aol.com > CC: fsj-digest-at-digest.net > > Thanks for the advice, Mark! As of now, the main goal is to get the > thing home. I talked to the PO several times yesterday. He even sent > me some videos of the thing starting up and of the overhead console > that actually works. Once I get it home I'll start really digging into > it. I may just go ahead and pull the engine and tranny/t-case just for > a good pressure washing and clean-up along with a good once-over for > good measure. I doubt the PO has ever adjusted the tranny bands OR > checked the t-case fluid so while I am in the process of checking > things out both of those tasks will be done. If the engine compression > checks out I'll probably throw a coat of paint on the thing while I > have it all out of the truck and cleaned up. Now might even be a good > time to go ahead and change the oil pan gasket and the rear main crank > seal. > > The deep aluminum tranny pan is a good idea. Where did you find it? > Does it interfere with the front driveshaft? Any ground clearance > issues? I remember when I put the 727 in my CJ7 the front driveshaft > came dangerously close to the front servo housing in the tranny. At > full passenger side suspension droop the driveshaft was close enough > to be a cause for major concerns. > > From the pics, it looks like the linkage that is disco'd is the LO/HI > range. I hope all the parts are there to get it back together. The > vacuum motor is still connected but it is all covered with grease and > other assorted nasty. > > On 8/17/11, Mark Wallace wrote: > > Ken - Welcome to the list. Lotsa thoughts. I have had my Wag for over 20 > > years > > and it has been in my family for almost 30. > > > > The rear window off the regulator. You really can't be a proper Wagoneer > > owner > > without having fixed this at least once. It is highly probable that the > > channel has rusted out. No biggie. Order a new one from BJ's Off Road and > > glue > > the old glass in with butyl windshield adhesive. Did that to mine in the > > 90's > > and it is still good. Also the channel is held to the regulator with some > > clips that don't always hold together very well. I took the clips off and > > drilled and threaded some holes in the regulator pins. Much less trouble. > > Also > > did that in the 1990's. > > > > Frame rust. I have done that repair and I have a bunch of pictures of it on > > my > > webshots page. > > > > http://community.webshots.com/user/GenXMark > > > > I think they are in the album labeled "Wag" > > > > Lot of cutting, lot of grinding, lot of welding, lot of working outside in > > the > > snow. If it is not rusted I would suggested pulling the gas tank, cleaning > > everything really well, consider replacing the fuel and brake pipes while > > you > > are in there cleaning it up and painting it with something...brush on > > Rust-o-leum, POR 15 or if you are so inclined proper auto paint like PPG > > Concept or DuPont Chroma System. > > > > Tranny. Get that kickdown working before you drive too far. Without it you > > will tear up the second/reverse band and definitely be in for a tranny > > rebuild. Even if you have to tie it all back together with zip ties to make > > the trip home make sure it kicks into second when you floor it. For the leak > > also check the cooling lines. They can come loose and crack. It is also > > possible that someone over torqued the pan bending it and making it very > > hard > > to get to not leak. You actually can straighten them. My solution however > > was > > a cast aluminum deep pan. Also you can't use gasket adhesive (e.g. permatex) > > on the tranny pan as the tranny fluid eats it up and then it clogs the > > filter. > > I have found that the gasket and filter kits from Napa are consistently good > > quality. > > > > T-Case. Get the linkage working first and see if the t-case is still good. > > It > > probably is. Also make sure it has oil in it. Or I think on that one it > > takes > > tranny fluid. More than one of us has had them leak dry due to bad seals. > > > > Daily Driver...I used mine as a daily driver from 1991 to about 2003 and > > occasionally after that until 2006. I drove it across the country several > > times one time driving form Boston Massachusetts to Portland and Seattle. I > > put 600 miles a week on it in the 1999-2000 school year (still in college at > > the time). At the time it was a very livable daily driver. I don't think I > > would enjoy driving it across the country again, but I don't like driving > > anymore. > > > > Mark Wallace > > 81 Wag > > 235,000 Miles > > > > > -- > Ken Gaines > Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman > Red River Oil & Gas, LLC > (318) 227-4870 Office > (318) 422-5731 Mobile > arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com > http://www.rrog.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 10:32:48 -0500 From: Ken Gaines Subject: Re: fsj: Ken's New Wag ...and R-134 systems IMO don't work nearly as well. The one in my 2008 Sahara changes temperature noticeably when I slow or stop the vehicle for any period of time and I KNOW it has plenty of refrigerant in it. Isn't R-12 very hard/impossible to find now without a whole bunch of licensing and notes from your mommy? On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 10:29 AM, john wrote: > there are kits with compatible oil for conversion, I've done several > without changing the dryer or any rings... various makes and models... > R134 is nasty stuff, R12 is so much better... and safer, more inert... > > > > ----- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all > Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > On Thu, 18 Aug 2011, Ken Gaines wrote: > > # Another question... > # The A/C parts are all there as far as I can tell. The engine video that > PO > # sent to me showed an intact compressor and hoses. Are there any other > # pitfalls (other than freon leaks) that I need to look out for? How well > do > # these systems agree with an R-134 retrofit? I know the seals and such > have > # to be replaced. What about replacing the receiver/drier too? I remember > my > # last Waggy had a pretty good A/C system. With this Wag, having the A/C > work > # is a must. It will likely be used as a road warrior and kid hauler. With > # temps soaring over 100F everyday here in Louisiana for the last couple > of > # months the A/C is gonna have to work. > # > # On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 9:47 AM, Ken Gaines > wrote: > # > # > Thanks for the advice, Mark! As of now, the main goal is to get the > # > thing home. I talked to the PO several times yesterday. He even sent > # > me some videos of the thing starting up and of the overhead console > # > that actually works. Once I get it home I'll start really digging into > # > it. I may just go ahead and pull the engine and tranny/t-case just for > # > a good pressure washing and clean-up along with a good once-over for > # > good measure. I doubt the PO has ever adjusted the tranny bands OR > # > checked the t-case fluid so while I am in the process of checking > # > things out both of those tasks will be done. If the engine compression > # > checks out I'll probably throw a coat of paint on the thing while I > # > have it all out of the truck and cleaned up. Now might even be a good > # > time to go ahead and change the oil pan gasket and the rear main crank > # > seal. > # > > # > The deep aluminum tranny pan is a good idea. Where did you find it? > # > Does it interfere with the front driveshaft? Any ground clearance > # > issues? I remember when I put the 727 in my CJ7 the front driveshaft > # > came dangerously close to the front servo housing in the tranny. At > # > full passenger side suspension droop the driveshaft was close enough > # > to be a cause for major concerns. > # > > # > From the pics, it looks like the linkage that is disco'd is the LO/HI > # > range. I hope all the parts are there to get it back together. The > # > vacuum motor is still connected but it is all covered with grease and > # > other assorted nasty. > # > > # > On 8/17/11, Mark Wallace wrote: > # > > Ken - Welcome to the list. Lotsa thoughts. I have had my Wag for > over 20 > # > > years > # > > and it has been in my family for almost 30. > # > > > # > > The rear window off the regulator. You really can't be a proper > Wagoneer > # > > owner > # > > without having fixed this at least once. It is highly probable that > the > # > > channel has rusted out. No biggie. Order a new one from BJ's Off > Road and > # > > glue > # > > the old glass in with butyl windshield adhesive. Did that to mine in > the > # > > 90's > # > > and it is still good. Also the channel is held to the regulator with > some > # > > clips that don't always hold together very well. I took the clips > off and > # > > drilled and threaded some holes in the regulator pins. Much less > trouble. > # > > Also > # > > did that in the 1990's. > # > > > # > > Frame rust. I have done that repair and I have a bunch of pictures > of it > # > on > # > > my > # > > webshots page. > # > > > # > > http://community.webshots.com/user/GenXMark > # > > > # > > I think they are in the album labeled "Wag" > # > > > # > > Lot of cutting, lot of grinding, lot of welding, lot of working > outside > # > in > # > > the > # > > snow. If it is not rusted I would suggested pulling the gas tank, > # > cleaning > # > > everything really well, consider replacing the fuel and brake pipes > while > # > > you > # > > are in there cleaning it up and painting it with something...brush > on > # > > Rust-o-leum, POR 15 or if you are so inclined proper auto paint like > PPG > # > > Concept or DuPont Chroma System. > # > > > # > > Tranny. Get that kickdown working before you drive too far. Without > it > # > you > # > > will tear up the second/reverse band and definitely be in for a > tranny > # > > rebuild. Even if you have to tie it all back together with zip ties > to > # > make > # > > the trip home make sure it kicks into second when you floor it. For > the > # > leak > # > > also check the cooling lines. They can come loose and crack. It is > also > # > > possible that someone over torqued the pan bending it and making it > very > # > > hard > # > > to get to not leak. You actually can straighten them. My solution > however > # > > was > # > > a cast aluminum deep pan. Also you can't use gasket adhesive (e.g. > # > permatex) > # > > on the tranny pan as the tranny fluid eats it up and then it clogs > the > # > > filter. > # > > I have found that the gasket and filter kits from Napa are > consistently > # > good > # > > quality. > # > > > # > > T-Case. Get the linkage working first and see if the t-case is still > # > good. > # > > It > # > > probably is. Also make sure it has oil in it. Or I think on that one > it > # > > takes > # > > tranny fluid. More than one of us has had them leak dry due to bad > seals. > # > > > # > > Daily Driver...I used mine as a daily driver from 1991 to about 2003 > and > # > > occasionally after that until 2006. I drove it across the country > several > # > > times one time driving form Boston Massachusetts to Portland and > Seattle. > # > I > # > > put 600 miles a week on it in the 1999-2000 school year (still in > college > # > at > # > > the time). At the time it was a very livable daily driver. I don't > think > # > I > # > > would enjoy driving it across the country again, but I don't like > driving > # > > anymore. > # > > > # > > Mark Wallace > # > > 81 Wag > # > > 235,000 Miles > # > > > # > > # > > # > -- > # > Ken Gaines > # > Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman > # > Red River Oil & Gas, LLC > # > (318) 227-4870 Office > # > (318) 422-5731 Mobile > # > arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com > # > http://www.rrog.net > # > > # > # > # > # > - -- Ken Gaines Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman Red River Oil & Gas, LLC (318) 227-4870 Office (318) 422-5731 Mobile arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com http://www.rrog.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 16:03:59 +0000 From: john Subject: Re: fsj: Ken's New Wag R12 is mucho bucks per pound. Probably fluctuates with gold. Anyone know the current rate? __john_at_http://wagoneers.com__ - -----Original Message----- From: Ken Gaines Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 10:32:48 To: Reply-To: Ken Gaines Subject: Re: fsj: Ken's New Wag ...and R-134 systems IMO don't work nearly as well. The one in my 2008 Sahara changes temperature noticeably when I slow or stop the vehicle for any period of time and I KNOW it has plenty of refrigerant in it. Isn't R-12 very hard/impossible to find now without a whole bunch of licensing and notes from your mommy? On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 10:29 AM, john wrote: > there are kits with compatible oil for conversion, I've done several > without changing the dryer or any rings... various makes and models... > R134 is nasty stuff, R12 is so much better... and safer, more inert... > > > > ----- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all > Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 > http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > On Thu, 18 Aug 2011, Ken Gaines wrote: > > # Another question... > # The A/C parts are all there as far as I can tell. The engine video that > PO > # sent to me showed an intact compressor and hoses. Are there any other > # pitfalls (other than freon leaks) that I need to look out for? How well > do > # these systems agree with an R-134 retrofit? I know the seals and such > have > # to be replaced. What about replacing the receiver/drier too? I remember > my > # last Waggy had a pretty good A/C system. With this Wag, having the A/C > work > # is a must. It will likely be used as a road warrior and kid hauler. With > # temps soaring over 100F everyday here in Louisiana for the last couple > of > # months the A/C is gonna have to work. > # > # On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 9:47 AM, Ken Gaines > wrote: > # > # > Thanks for the advice, Mark! As of now, the main goal is to get the > # > thing home. I talked to the PO several times yesterday. He even sent > # > me some videos of the thing starting up and of the overhead console > # > that actually works. Once I get it home I'll start really digging into > # > it. I may just go ahead and pull the engine and tranny/t-case just for > # > a good pressure washing and clean-up along with a good once-over for > # > good measure. I doubt the PO has ever adjusted the tranny bands OR > # > checked the t-case fluid so while I am in the process of checking > # > things out both of those tasks will be done. If the engine compression > # > checks out I'll probably throw a coat of paint on the thing while I > # > have it all out of the truck and cleaned up. Now might even be a good > # > time to go ahead and change the oil pan gasket and the rear main crank > # > seal. > # > > # > The deep aluminum tranny pan is a good idea. Where did you find it? > # > Does it interfere with the front driveshaft? Any ground clearance > # > issues? I remember when I put the 727 in my CJ7 the front driveshaft > # > came dangerously close to the front servo housing in the tranny. At > # > full passenger side suspension droop the driveshaft was close enough > # > to be a cause for major concerns. > # > > # > From the pics, it looks like the linkage that is disco'd is the LO/HI > # > range. I hope all the parts are there to get it back together. The > # > vacuum motor is still connected but it is all covered with grease and > # > other assorted nasty. > # > > # > On 8/17/11, Mark Wallace wrote: > # > > Ken - Welcome to the list. Lotsa thoughts. I have had my Wag for > over 20 > # > > years > # > > and it has been in my family for almost 30. > # > > > # > > The rear window off the regulator. You really can't be a proper > Wagoneer > # > > owner > # > > without having fixed this at least once. It is highly probable that > the > # > > channel has rusted out. No biggie. Order a new one from BJ's Off > Road and > # > > glue > # > > the old glass in with butyl windshield adhesive. Did that to mine in > the > # > > 90's > # > > and it is still good. Also the channel is held to the regulator with > some > # > > clips that don't always hold together very well. I took the clips > off and > # > > drilled and threaded some holes in the regulator pins. Much less > trouble. > # > > Also > # > > did that in the 1990's. > # > > > # > > Frame rust. I have done that repair and I have a bunch of pictures > of it > # > on > # > > my > # > > webshots page. > # > > > # > > http://community.webshots.com/user/GenXMark > # > > > # > > I think they are in the album labeled "Wag" > # > > > # > > Lot of cutting, lot of grinding, lot of welding, lot of working > outside > # > in > # > > the > # > > snow. If it is not rusted I would suggested pulling the gas tank, > # > cleaning > # > > everything really well, consider replacing the fuel and brake pipes > while > # > > you > # > > are in there cleaning it up and painting it with something...brush > on > # > > Rust-o-leum, POR 15 or if you are so inclined proper auto paint like > PPG > # > > Concept or DuPont Chroma System. > # > > > # > > Tranny. Get that kickdown working before you drive too far. Without > it > # > you > # > > will tear up the second/reverse band and definitely be in for a > tranny > # > > rebuild. Even if you have to tie it all back together with zip ties > to > # > make > # > > the trip home make sure it kicks into second when you floor it. For > the > # > leak > # > > also check the cooling lines. They can come loose and crack. It is > also > # > > possible that someone over torqued the pan bending it and making it > very > # > > hard > # > > to get to not leak. You actually can straighten them. My solution > however > # > > was > # > > a cast aluminum deep pan. Also you can't use gasket adhesive (e.g. > # > permatex) > # > > on the tranny pan as the tranny fluid eats it up and then it clogs > the > # > > filter. > # > > I have found that the gasket and filter kits from Napa are > consistently > # > good > # > > quality. > # > > > # > > T-Case. Get the linkage working first and see if the t-case is still > # > good. > # > > It > # > > probably is. Also make sure it has oil in it. Or I think on that one > it > # > > takes > # > > tranny fluid. More than one of us has had them leak dry due to bad > seals. > # > > > # > > Daily Driver...I used mine as a daily driver from 1991 to about 2003 > and > # > > occasionally after that until 2006. I drove it across the country > several > # > > times one time driving form Boston Massachusetts to Portland and > Seattle. > # > I > # > > put 600 miles a week on it in the 1999-2000 school year (still in > college > # > at > # > > the time). At the time it was a very livable daily driver. I don't > think > # > I > # > > would enjoy driving it across the country again, but I don't like > driving > # > > anymore. > # > > > # > > Mark Wallace > # > > 81 Wag > # > > 235,000 Miles > # > > > # > > # > > # > -- > # > Ken Gaines > # > Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman > # > Red River Oil & Gas, LLC > # > (318) 227-4870 Office > # > (318) 422-5731 Mobile > # > arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com > # > http://www.rrog.net > # > > # > # > # > # > - -- Ken Gaines Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman Red River Oil & Gas, LLC (318) 227-4870 Office (318) 422-5731 Mobile arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com http://www.rrog.net ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #3770 **************************