What you see in this picture is donor springs spread out and ready for
matching.  The Springs from the J10 aren't clearly visible,
but are significantly flatter than the ones shown.  In the table
below you will see that the J10 springs have less arch.  The J10 did
not appear to be sagging, not as other FSJ's have that I've owned.  The
stock springs seem fine, if not even too stiff, but since it's a truck
you'd expect that.  




The J10 weighs around 4,100 lbs.  Most Wagoneers I've owned weighed in
around 4,500 to 5,200 lbs.  The Wagoneers also use more springs in their
packs.  By using Wagoneer springs and one Add-A-Leaf (aal) I hope to gain
height, articulation and improved ride.  Since I've done this before with
success I have no reason to believe it won't work this time.




The numbers below height are rough estimates of the total, the
number directly below that is the average.  The height indicates
the amount of arch at the center of the spring.  These are all approximate
and relative measurements used to match up springs to provide the best
ride, articulation and around two to three inches of lift.  The springs
from the wagoneer seem to flex better than the J10's.  The springs on the
wagoneer supported more weight than the J10 on a regular basis.  Since
the objective with this suspension is ride and articulation and not load
carrying capability, the stock J10 springs will be replaced with a slightly
longer, higher arched spring from the Wagoneer.




While the basis of the poor man lift kit is primarily to hand select
the best springs out of salvaged spring sets, I lucked out and found
a pair of Rancho Add-A-Leafs in one of the packs.  In addition, I had
the remnants of an XJ lift kit that also had a pair of AALs.  So I have
two pairs, one for each end, that are either 1.5 or 2" worth of lift.




The problem with AAL's is they tend to make the ride harsher... so I will
compensate for that buy using weaker, thinner, longer springs for the
balance of the pack.  Because AAL's tend to weaken the springs directly
adjacent to them, I will double up my longest springs so it will be
more difficult to break the main spring.  Kind of like  a military wrap
second leaf, only without the wrap.  I used this trick on Old Blue
and it worked. well.




When assembling the leaf packs I will coat all internal surfaces with
AMSOIL synthethic grease and replace the pads with new ones.  I will
not goop as much grease on as I have in the past, just a light coating
except near main friction points.  I believe this helped both the
ride and the articulation on Old Blue.  FWIW, Old Blue scored about
673 points on the ramp, which shocked not only me, but several others.
So, the poor man lift tricks for an SJ, or any leaf spring setup do
work.  Old Blue also had a wonderful ride.  Ride, lift and articulation,
who could ask for anything more?  :)

Calculations on springs

The numbers below represent a trial combination.  The letters are
a relative pointer to the table above.  The main springs are not
considered in the equations.  The reason for not removing the main
leaf spring is primarily to avoid messing with the main spring alignment
and bushings.  




The table below is a rough guess of how I'll reassemble the spring packs.
My base spring will go from 14 inches to 22 inches as I use the Rancho
and Rough Country AAL's as a base.  Next to them will be a longer spring
than what was originally in the pack. The reason for this is to prevent
a negative curve from being formed in the main spring.  This happened with
an earlier version of this technique.  I then tore that spring pack apart
and used a longer 2nd spring so it actually came up under the spring shackles,
this relieved the main spring and gave me peace of mine.  Kind of like a 
military wrap without the expense...