Pressure Valve Seal Replacement

This was done on a 1991 Mercedes 300D 5 cylinder 2.5L Turbo Diesel, but this process should be the same on most Diesels.
gather parts and tools... recommend the two special tools - the socket with the splines and the crows foot for the injector lines... although a good 14mm wrench would work fine.
before picture so I know for sure how it's supposed to be... (trying to keep my track record up of having things work, look like they did before and not have extra parts left over when done. ;) Note the Diesel fuel on the top of the pump... after careful examination I noticed that fuel was leaking, seeping actually, from the #3 line at the base.
looking down on pump
loosened injector lines to get them clear shot showing the 1/4" drive ratchet with extension and the special 14mm crowsfoot.
pulled the locking plate bolts off injector lines off
pulled the lines for #1 & #2
removed the lines in the back to give extra room by the pump.
shot of the two special tools, roughly around 20 to 25 USD each The spline tool might be available other then from the dealer, but trying to do this job without it would result in damage. Torque spec works out to about 25.8 Foot Pounds of Torque - 35NM. Injector lines get around 7 ftlbs.
The locking plates off the pump.
note the protection for the fender... hood barely clears carport roof... :)
Disassembled pressure valve also showing the new O-rings, springs and brass washers. Cleaned everything out with cotton swabs. The special tools are shown again.
Closeup shot of the disassembled pressure valve. Not sure if it's visible but the original o-rings were quite distorted and flattened out. It was a good thing I replaced all 5 valve part internals.
looking down into the top of the pump.
The hardest parts were getting it started again... and getting the dirt off of my forearms... Runs great now, and no more smell of Diesel fuel leaking onto the ground. John Meister © September 13, 2003 Snohomish, Washington


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