From dieseljohn@comcast.net Fri Jan 16 10:02:41 2004 From: john meister I'm sending this to myself... ;) john Message: 11 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 04:53:50 -0800 From: Steve Nervig Subject: Re: [MB] Removing W124 Center heating Vents On Jan 16, 2004, at 4:37 AM, Sergio Movsessian wrote: >> Hi list, >> The center (2) heating/cooling vents on my W124 are stuck. They move >> up/down but not side to side. Also, the round knob to open and close >> airflow, is also stuck (fortunately, open). >> How do I remove them? I see a 4 mm hex screw. Anything else have to >> come of? Don't find in the service manual. All I see there is the >> entire dash removal and I certainly want to avoid having to do that. >> Thanks, >> Sergio >> '95 E320 118.5K miles Here's what the wily George Murphy sez on the subject: How to Remove Dash Vents in Model W124 Models by George Murphy, Technical Committee Chairman, Director at Large LEFT & RIGHT VENTS: There are four spring clips that secure the vent to the dash. They are located inside the vent louver assembly. Using a flashlight, look inside the vent at the lower and upper surfaces - you'll see spring clips with a small hole just protruding above the surface of the vent - 2 on the bottom and 2 on the top. The trick is to use a small pointed tool inserted into the hole in the clip. Lift the clip upward (or downward for the upper ones) while applying an outward pulling force on the assembly - I use needle nose pliers padded with a cloth on the jaws so as not to mar the vent vanes. Don't pry against the dash - it's soft and can be torn or dented. Just maintain an outward pull on the assembly while you lift each spring clip in turn - the vent assembly will ease on out. It is then a simple matter to unplug the illumination bulb and replace it. DO NOT USE MORE THAN 0.4 WATT BULBS - the excess heat will distort the plastic bulb holder and make it impossible to ever get the bulb and socket out again. The correct bulb is part no. 000 825 00 99 - a tiny push-in type bulb with gray plastic sleeve and straight contacts. The bulb wattage is marked on the gray sleeve. CENTER OUTLET: In this case, first release the operating lever inside the vent using a metric Allen wrench (about 2 or 3 mm) to unscrew the flap link from the wheel. Shine a light inside the vent along the right side of the wheel - the Allen screw is visible inside - unscrew (turn counter-clockwise) the screw to release the link. On the right side, there is a Phillips-head screw accessible when the glove box door is open. As above, look inside for spring clips to retract that will allow the assembly to move outward. Use same size bulb as above. When re-assembling, after the unit is seated, re-attach the wheel link to the flap lever by engaging the Allen screw and rotating it clockwise. Tighten the screw only enough so that the wheel closes the vent with slight resistance. (If you over tighten it, you get to buy a new assembly...) -- ---- ------------------------------------------------------------------------- * john-at-wagoneers.com * Snohomish, WA USA - http://wagoneers.com where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. ** trust Jesus ** ------------------------------------------------------------------------- win, mac & linux: http://www.mozilla.org/ the new alternatives ------------------------------------------------------------------------- From schwertwal@ewetel.net Wed Jan 7 23:21:23 2004 From: Andreas Kreft hi, I found an article about reading the error codes from an ASD control unit, unfortunately it's very long and in German, but babelfish provided a quite useful translation... sure, it's horrible English, but the main points are clear... if you don't understand some phrases, e-mail them to me, I'll translate them with my brain power :) here's the source.. http://f22.parsimony.net/forum43054/messages/3478.htm and that's what babelfish made from it (I cut some unimportant words): Thus, you must at the test clutch (right beside the battery longish housing approx.. 5 cm large) to socket 5 a long cable (up to the driver's seat) attach. Engine start. The cable of the test clutch for approx.. 1 sec. against mass hold (to ground it). Then the cable from mass loosen. After the mass bridge goes the ASD light for approx.. 2 sec. out, and begins to flash then. Depending upon number of flashing there is the following error list. After the flashing again constantly shining ASD lamp. After the disturbance was eliminated must the error code be deleted. Therefore socket 5 and 1 at the test clutch for min. 10 sec. connect. Afterwards the ASD lamp is out. Error code: 1 x no disturbance 2 x ASD controller def., renew. 3 x stop light switch def., switches and lines examine. 4 x front wheel number of revolutions VL 5 x front wheel number of revolutions VR 6 x rear wheel number of revolutions 7 x all number of revolutions impulses are missing 8 x single solenoid valve or stop light switch def, ern. To 4 to 7: the testing set is also for 4-Matic. If the lamp 4 to 7 times flashes, speed pickups are disturbed and must be through-measured (is however again much text), dann AC signals to examine, installation position and for mechanical damages to examine, lines examine, Evtl. ABS controller def. if ASD and ABS control shines. hope you can understand it :) later a. kreft -- Q: How many Bell Labs Vice Presidents does it take to change a light bulb? A: That's proprietary information. Answer available from AT&T on payment of license fee (binary only). From dieseljohn@comcast.net Thu Nov 6 17:22:11 2003 From: john meister Message: 3 Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 17:16:59 -0800 From: DaveC Subject: [MB] Mechanical speedo fix for wavering needle and... Hey, guys and gals, I thought the speedometer in my W123 had died. It has wavered up and down when driving below about 40 mph, recently increasing its erratic behavior. The last thing it finally did is stick at anywhere from 40 to 60, regardless how fast I drove. I pulled out my spare speedo that I had gotten from an earlier model ( a300D, I think it was...) and put that in. Needless to say, it was no where accurate (my 208E is geared differently), but at least it did not waver like the old one. So, I figured that a little "organ transplatation" was in order. I opened up both speedos and saw right away that the gearing (the two long white nylon ones) was different, based on the differences in rear drive ratios and other things. Everything else looked the same. After a little playing around, I saw that the input shaft that drives the little disc-shaped magnet was severely gummed up with old grease. It was stiff, to say the least. This, it turns out, was the source of all the problems in the speedo. By being difficult to turn, the speedometer cable -- being very flexible -- would "wind up" until it overcame the resistance of the input shaft. Then the shaft would spin very fast, dissipating all the energy from the cable which would send the needle flying, then again drag to a stop. This caused the needle bounce I was used to seeing. So I fixed it! And you can. too -- 1. Remove the instrument cluster from the dashboard. 2. Remove the clock (or tachometer, or whatever is installed in the right side of the instrument cluster). 3. Remove the speedometer. 4. Remove the cruise control speed-sensor (one screw in the middle of it) from the back of the speedo. 5. Remove the back shield from the speedo (2 screws). 6. Remove the input shaft/magnet bearing assembly (2 slotted screw). 7. Using a small drift or even a small flat blade screw driver, knock out the bronze bushing in which the long lateral nylon gear/shaft rides. Remove the gear/shaft. 8. Remove the input shaft/magnet end bearing bracket (1 slotted screw). The input shaft/magnet will slide out of the cast input assembly. 9. Clean the shaft and the bushing in which it rotates with appropriate solvent. 10. Grease it sparingly (I used a good synthetic grease). Be sure to not lose the little nylon collar bearing that can pop out at the bottom of the input assembly when you remove the input shaft/magnet. Put a small amount of grease on each of the nylon gears and the ends that ride in the bronze bushings. 11. Reassemble. Be sure to use the two gears/shafts that originally came with your speedo; they are the things that give your odometer its accuracy. My speedo is now very constant (no wavering) and has apparently corrected a 10 percent error down to about 2 percent (I attribute this to the drag that is no longer there). Pictures to follow, sometime soon... Dave ------------------------------ ------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... Jesus, don't leave life without him, please! ----------------------------------------------------------------------