Sun Jul 5, 2009 From: Edward Pomeroy John - for your database on the OVP relay and repairing it. Final report with pictures - Removed battery, moved first ECU out of the way. The trick to getting the OVP relay out is that on one side of the plastic frame that holds it, there is a hole (closed slot) that receives the tang on one side of the relay box, on the far side closest to the firewall, it is not a closed but a knife slot. * **The trick to removing is to carefully twist the relay slightly clockwise (facing the rear of the can that has the tangs) then pulling/pushing the relay and blade that goes into the closed pocket outwards (towards the firewall) at which point the whole relay can be moved away from the plastic holder and unplugged from the connector. * Remove the 10A fuse (or two if yours had two), then pry the crimps on the base of the can away from the plastic pin holder. It is a very tight fit, I did minor damage (visible pry marks) on the can. Picture 25 shows can, relay and minor damage. Picture 26 show what the relay looks like board side, notice the oxidized rosin where the factory had re-soldered several point. Also note the lead almost in the center that seems to have boulders around the pin, this was the bad connection, intermittent like all get out. Crystalized tin and corrosion all round this one point. Of course, this was the one point not re-soldered at the factory and thus failed. It also happens to be one leg of the contact feeding the relay contact as best I can determine. Picture 27 -s looking down from the top, can see the relay coil and big honking diode. Picture 28 side view, again looking at relay and large diode in heatsink the full size of the can wall. Picture 29 - after cleaning with fine wire brush, re-flowing all the bad and questionable connections (with high quality 60/40) and then cleaning with deoxit. End result! The ABS light is off, the idle control is back to normal and as a bonus, now the cruise control which had gone totally random and mostly non functional, WORKS normally again and I don't get pulsing brakes on the downhill, which means that if you have pulsing and sometimes self shutoff of the cruise control on downhill, it is very likely the OVP and not the actual cruise control amplifier, though I took the latter apart and re-flowed several questionable connections about a month back, with no change in behaviour, hence, it was the OVP. This little beastie of a relay seems to have come into use after 86, the earlier diesels and gassers did not use it or at least I can't find it in the older manual. Next, to either pay someone to dismantle the dash and repair/replace the A/C item leaking in there or to try it myself..... leaning to paying a pro for that, too much work involved. Was a great 4th of July, hope everyone enjoyed the weekend. Edward
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