the JB heater


From jasonbassett@juno.com Wed Aug 17 17:15:22 2005
From: Jason R Bassett 

Since we are all so determined to run our poor diesels on garbage oils, I
think I should post an official explanation (sans pictures....sigh) of
how I made a very effective heater for my garbage oil. (Think veggie....)
This is (in theory) far more thermally efficient than the Greasel.com
hoses because copper is a much better heat conductor than any plastic.

This is probably a $50 idea, yours free for being such a great list.

You will need:
10' of 3/4" ID Heater hose
10' of 1/4" OR 3/8" soft copper tubing (1/4" for small motors, 3/8" for
big ones)
~1' of 3/4" copper pipe 
2 3/4"X3/4"X3/4" copper sweat T's
3/4" copper sweat valve (1/4 turn ball) (optional*)
1/4" OR 3/8" drill bit and drill
Solder and related equipment
6 hose clamps to fit (~1")
2 mini hose clamps (fuel)
Grinder, file, or sandpaper aids installation on some vehicles

*Valve allows you to control the amount of flow through the heater. Not
usually necessary, but if you live in a hot climate this might be a good
idea.

1. Unroll the tubing and heater hose. Slide the tubing inside the heater
hose. (MUCH easier with an assistant!)

2. Cut 6 1-1/2" sections of copper pipe (the 3" is used if using valve)
3a. Solder the 1-1/2" stubs into the T's
3b. (Optional) If using valve, solder the valve onto the non-through leg
of the T. Solder the 3" stub into the valve.

4a. Drill a hole the size of the copper tubing in one T opposite the
non-through leg of the T.
4b. If not using valve, repeat 4a on other T. If using valve, drill a
hole in ONE side of the 3" piece of pipe attached to the valve. Once
drill breaks through, turn drill slowly sideways to create an oblong
hole. 



5. Slide tubing slightly out of heater hose on one end, and insert tubing
into one of the small holes. IF USING A VALVE, START WITH THE OBLONG HOLE
IN THE 3" STUB, or you will have great difficulty getting the tubing
through the hole. It will probably be advisable to make a gentle bend in
the end of the tubing. Once the tubing is through the hole, solder it
down. Leave about 3/4" sticking out to slide the fuel hose over.




6. Slide the heater hose over the stub on the end which now has the
tubing soldered in, and CLAMP IT.





7. It is advisable in some situations to wind the hose and tubing around
a cylinder (such as a large aerosol can) to make the heater into a
compact unit. This can be unrolled easily if need be for installation.
(Mine was partially unrolled due to space limitations, and the remainder
of the roll went in the fender well.) IF YOU DO CHOOSE TO ROLL IT, DO SO
NOW. It changes the geometry a bit to roll it, and because of this, doing
so actually makes the remainder of the process easier.

8. After rolling hose and tubing, you should have several inches of
tubing sticking out beyond the hose. If you do not, or if you do not roll
it, CAREFULLY cut off the heater hose so that you have about 3" of tubing
extending beyond the hose end. Slide this tubing through the hole in the
remaining T, then slide the hose over the stub. Clamp the hose, and
solder the tubing in. (Be especially efficient in this solder joint,
because keeping the pipe hot too long can damage the heater hose.)

9. Your heater is now ready to install. Grinding the burrs off of the
remaining stub ends is advisable, and a slight taper helps on many
vehicles, because the 3/4" pipe is often slightly larger than the hoses
that must slide over it. (1/2" copper is much too small, however, and I
would not recommend it.) Tapering (rounding) the edges allows the
existing hoses to stretch and slide over the stubs much more easily.

10. Cut the heater lines before any control mechanisms so that the
coolant will always flow through the heater, regardless of whether or not
the cabin heat is on. Be sure to choose locations where there is room for
the extra connections (fuel heater hoses and fuel lines.) Slide the
existing hoses over the stubs and clamp the connections. Cut waste oil
line, and install on ends of tubing. (Extending the fuel lines may be
necessary.)

11. Refill the radiator, but leave the cap off. Once the engine is
started, add coolant. The hoses will burp extensively, and will raise the
capacity of your cooling system noticeably. KEEP AN EYE ON THE LEVEL FOR
A FEW DAYS. It may be advisable to slightly overfill your expansion tank,
since the system will draw some.

12. Purge the fuel system to draw the oil through the heater and get rid
of the air.

13. Enjoy your nice hot (free) waste oil!
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