From: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net (diesel-benz-digest) To: diesel-benz-digest-at-krusty-motorsports.com Subject: diesel-benz-digest V1 #64 Reply-To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Sender: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Errors-To: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Precedence: bulk diesel-benz-digest Thursday, December 31 1998 Volume 01 : Number 064 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles John Meister Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: Thank you John IPF replacement headlights the last issue... IPF headlight page RE: the last issue... Re: Parts for older vehicles RE: vacuum leaks RE: vacuum leaks Re: IPF replacement headlights RE: vacuum leaks Miscellaneous ramblings/ Fixing Old Smokey vacuum and HEATER RE: vacuum leaks Re: vacuum and HEATER Re: vacuum and HEATER Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 01:37:42 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: Thank you John At 01:18 AM 12/30/98 +0100, Pieter Noorlander wrote: >Using the trip odometer to monitor fuel consumption is probably the most >reliable solution, but you know how it is, I just can't stand it if my >Herman has any defects, even minor. I'm afraid this attitude will cause me >lots of labour in the coming years, but it will keep me from the street ;-) tell me about it... the move to the Benz is a relief after working on full size Jeeps for years... At least when you work on a Mercedes it stays fixed for more than a month at a time. :) The remaining issue on Fritz as of today is the vacuum system... :) >>Btw, I really like the way you manage this list, your enthusiasm works >infectious on me... funny, my family uses terms like "obsessive"... :) >Pieter Noorlander >1983 300TD (Herman) > John 81 300D (Fritz) - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... ------------ http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html Jesus - don't leave life without him... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 01:49:55 -0800 From: john Subject: IPF replacement headlights Just finished installing the IPF replacement headlights on Fritz. Was going to use the 90/145 Watt lamps but couldn't make the wiring loom fit through the headlight buckets on Fritz (81 300D). So I used the 90/110W Super Jey Bulbs, which only have an actual power rating of 55/60W so I can use the stock wiring. On the little wagoneer (88 wagoneer limited) I am using the Marine Blue lamps, they have a rating of 110/130 (illumination) with only 55/60 Watts consumption. While the light is clear, it's not as full as the 90/110W I will use the 90/145 W with the wiring loom to brighten them up. Awesome. I can see again. Fritz had standard Halogen headlights before. I was running my fog lamps to help fill in the headlights. With the IPF lights I can barely tell that the fog lights are on now. Nice white light with the typical Eurpoean cutoff. Reminds me of the lights on my European sedans. (BMW 2500) When I flick on the high beams I can see quite a ways down the road. Awesome. I'm ready for a light war now. :) I got the lights through ARB in Seattle. There are a number of distributers for ARB across the states. You can contact ARB in Seattle for one near you. I've written a couple of articles on some of their other lights and have them up on my website. http://www.wagoneers.com/JEEPS/XJ-cherokees/IPF-lights/ - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... ------------ http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html Jesus - don't leave life without him... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 02:07:45 -0800 From: john Subject: the last issue... Fritz is coming along. He just got his windshield replaced. Just installed the IPF replacement H4 lights... (major improvement) the remaining problem is getting the vacuum system working properly so he actually turns off when I turn him off... The lock system is working. What is weird is if I shut him off and restart him WITHOUT locking the doors, he has no power, doesn't shift right, etc. If I forget, I just stop, shut him off, lock and unlock the doors and restart with no problems.... Too weird. Any ideas on what part of the vacuum system is causing this problem? If I bypass the lock system I think it shuts off quickly. But the system works... I'm confused. Have a MightyVac Vacuum tester ordered at NAPA, should be in soon... This is a strange problem... I've also noticed a change in shifting when I fiddle with the connections under the hood. Why would an otherwise well engineered car rely so much on vacuum? :) later, john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... ------------ http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html Jesus - don't leave life without him... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 03:03:01 -0800 From: john Subject: IPF headlight page I just finished putting it together... http://www.wagoneers.com/DieselBenz/IPF-replacement-headlights.html I'll have some pictures added later, pretty simple process... only needed a phillips screwdriver. :) john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... ------------ http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html Jesus - don't leave life without him... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 09:57:27 -0500 From: "David Masinick" Subject: RE: the last issue... John, You may have a leaking diaphragm on one of your doors, your fuel door, or your trunk. On my 300D, I had BOTH a leaking shutoff switch on the back of the ignition keyswitch and a bad diaphragm on a door lock. It took awhile to trace both of those down (lack of experience), but with a factory manual and a mightyvac, I feel confident that I can trace most of them (leaks) down. John, per your question about the reliability of vacuum, etc., my guess is that the materials technology of the day is what got the vacuum thing going way back before the space age produced better electrics/electronics. - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of john Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 5:08 AM To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Subject: the last issue... Fritz is coming along. He just got his windshield replaced. Just installed the IPF replacement H4 lights... (major improvement) the remaining problem is getting the vacuum system working properly so he actually turns off when I turn him off... The lock system is working. What is weird is if I shut him off and restart him WITHOUT locking the doors, he has no power, doesn't shift right, etc. If I forget, I just stop, shut him off, lock and unlock the doors and restart with no problems.... Too weird. Any ideas on what part of the vacuum system is causing this problem? If I bypass the lock system I think it shuts off quickly. But the system works... I'm confused. Have a MightyVac Vacuum tester ordered at NAPA, should be in soon... This is a strange problem... I've also noticed a change in shifting when I fiddle with the connections under the hood. Why would an otherwise well engineered car rely so much on vacuum? :) later, john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... ------------ http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html Jesus - don't leave life without him... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 11:28:43 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: Parts for older vehicles At 12:31 PM 12/30/98 -0500, B. COLUCCI wrote: SUBJECT: MB Cuts Up Chrysler Pie >Greetings To The FSJ World! >OFFICIAL NEWS ON PARTS! >Do not try to go to your local Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge/Jeep dealer to >pick up that remanufactured carb, master cylinder, or any other reman. >part. They will nolonger be carrying them for order. MB has decided >that only selected NEW parts will be available no more remans. >The scary part is that there is talk about discontinuing slow moving new >parts as well. When stock is gone no new parts will be manufactured. >Hey John what is the policy on old MB parts at the MB dealer? Are there >parts you just can not get? >Until The Next Dimension >Admiral "Coluch." >End Transmission >Starfleet Headquarters >Ohio Post..................................... RE: Parts for older vehicles First, Brian, take a deep breath and RELAX!!!! All systems are normal. Second, Daimler and Chrysler have not officially made any changes to the (Jeep) parts processes, policies or procedures. There is lots of talk and planning, but nothing has been implemented yet. Any changes they do make will probably bring Jeep more into line with industry standards, thereby making it more cost-effective. (read fewer vintage parts in the system... :-( Third, Standard industry practice in the parts business is to quit carrying parts for vehicles 5 to 10 years after the model has been discontinued. The fact that Jeep maintains a CD library going back to 1981 and a microfiche going back to 1968 is unique and phenomenal! As far as Mercedes parts I have no trouble at all locating parts for my 300D. The body style began in 1976. I've yet to run across a discontinued part. So if Mercedes is an example you Jeep guys can relax. :) The body style that ended in 1975 (my old 240d) still has some parts available as well. That's over 20 years since model retirement! As far as parts obsolence, I ran into this on vehicles still in PRODUCTION with GM parts. I couldn't locate a timing cover for an engine still being produced!!! The parts business is based on how often inventory "turns". If a part sits on a shelf for very long at all, it's history. The parts business is about "turn". It costs money to store parts. The part has to pay for it's parking space. (after owning about 14 Jeeps I've yet to need a new timing cover... actually, I did need one for a non-Jeep engine swap... that's when I ran into the GM parts thing... :-) Jeep has been a foster stepchild for years. Willys, Kaiser, AMC, Chrysler, now DaimerChrysler... Yet through it all it keeps getting better, yet retains it's unique identity and functionality. It remains the winner in the 4x4 world. Over the years the quality of the product has improved, along with it's reliability and performance. I've owned Jeeps/Willys models from 53 to 88. I've looked at, driven and worked on the newer models. I am very impressed with the new WJ. If it weren't for the raked windshield I would have felt like I was in an SJ. It behaved well off-road, very similar to my FSJ's. I miss the "panascopic" vision of the SJ... I still feel the XJ had the best off-road feel out of the three Jeep models though. I've only sat in the ML series Mercedes, but test reports are impressive. And Mercedes is the company of the UNIMOG, the ultimate Swiss-Army Knife of vehicles. :) My guess is Jeeps will only get better under the joint leadership of Chrysler and Daimler Benz. It will probably mean less OEM parts for vintage rigs like our SJ's... But that was inevitable anyways, anyone that believed otherwise was a clueless optimist. :-) Owning both a Jeep and a Mercedes, I'm thinking this whole thing could work out pretty well... :-) Anybody checked out the pictures of the 240TD in the FSJ in Sweden? http://www.wagoneers.com/FSJ/Rigs/Swedish-FSJs/tommy-98-2-240td.jpg maybe a 300TD in that old 81 J10 out in my yard might just be the way to go... :) later, john ------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com - http://www.wagoneers.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... ------------------------------------------------- http://www.wagoneers.com/DieselBenz/diesel-benz-list.html (81 300D) http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/JEEP/FSJ-list.html (81 J10) http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/JEEP/XJ-list.html (88 xj wagoneer) ------------------------------------------------- jesus, don't leave life without him... ------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 11:57:45 -0800 From: john Subject: RE: vacuum leaks At 09:57 AM 12/30/98 -0500, David Masinick wrote: >John, >You may have a leaking diaphragm on one of your doors, your fuel door, or >your trunk. On my 300D, I had BOTH a leaking shutoff switch on the back of >the ignition keyswitch and a bad diaphragm on a door lock. It took awhile >to trace both of those down (lack of experience), but with a factory manual >and a mightyvac, I feel confident that I can trace most of them (leaks) >down. Thanx for the input David... Any tips on how to isolate the leaker? Lets say it's the rear door, driver's side. Could I just plug off those lines and operate the lock manually? I guess the unit is only about $80 at the dealer, $60 via IMPCO... But I don't want to use the shotgun approach to Mercedes repair... :) Actually, I think I did plug those lines and the motor still "dieseled". :) The factory manual does not provide a good troubleshooting aid for this system... unless I haven't found the right section.... I had GP Automotive in Everett, WA troubleshoot it once. He found a bad trunk element and master switch element. I've replaced both and the doors work fine now, except the drivers side rear door, it's slow... john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... ------------ http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html Jesus - don't leave life without him... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 15:27:42 -0500 From: "David Masinick" Subject: RE: vacuum leaks Hey John, Bingo! You answered your own question. Test the slow diaphragm and you likely will find it is the culprit. That's how I isolated mine after replacing the ignition shut-off. Sure, you can disconnect the offending unit. Just be sure to plug the line back to the system so you aren't venting the system more than your leaking diaphragm does. For future reference, you can pull up your carpet (it is nice that they used snaps instead of glue), and all of the vacuum lines run along the floorboard with some nice rubber connections along the way that can be disconnected to test the individual circuits. I was going to suggest the "look for the slow lock" method in my last note, but decided against it in case it was your fuel door or trunk lock. Which manual did you use to troubleshoot? I thought the factory manual did a pretty good job on the Central Locking System (it is in the 123 Chassis and Body Manual Vol. 2). BTW, I am interested in the headlight conversion on my 300D. How much did this cost you? I thought the Hella lights from Impco for $51 each was a little steep (we are frugal here in New Hampshire), but I keep hearing gushing praises for the Euro spec lights. I have read a bunch of posts and web-site articles by Daniel Stern of Stern Lighting on the topic of lighting conversion. Maybe I'll take the plunge some day. Bye for now, Dave - -----Original Message----- From: john-at-virtual-cafe.com [mailto:john-at-virtual-cafe.com] Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 2:58 PM To: David Masinick Cc: 'Diesel-Benz List' Subject: RE: vacuum leaks At 09:57 AM 12/30/98 -0500, David Masinick wrote: >John, >You may have a leaking diaphragm on one of your doors, your fuel door, or >your trunk. On my 300D, I had BOTH a leaking shutoff switch on the back of >the ignition keyswitch and a bad diaphragm on a door lock. It took awhile >to trace both of those down (lack of experience), but with a factory manual >and a mightyvac, I feel confident that I can trace most of them (leaks) >down. Thanx for the input David... Any tips on how to isolate the leaker? Lets say it's the rear door, driver's side. Could I just plug off those lines and operate the lock manually? I guess the unit is only about $80 at the dealer, $60 via IMPCO... But I don't want to use the shotgun approach to Mercedes repair... :) Actually, I think I did plug those lines and the motor still "dieseled". :) The factory manual does not provide a good troubleshooting aid for this system... unless I haven't found the right section.... I had GP Automotive in Everett, WA troubleshoot it once. He found a bad trunk element and master switch element. I've replaced both and the doors work fine now, except the drivers side rear door, it's slow... john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... ------------ http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html Jesus - don't leave life without him... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 13:55:30 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: IPF replacement headlights At 04:09 PM 12/30/98 -0500, Chris Klass wrote: >How much were they for the MB? >>Chris http://www.summitoffroad.com/ipf.html has them for $32 apiece. This is the best price I've seen. I believe retail price is $51 each... Hella's run about $46 to $51, Candella's about $36 or so. Both come with bulbs, the IPF's don't, but you can get a standard H4 bulb for about $17 a pair... john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... ------------ http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html Jesus - don't leave life without him... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 14:46:28 -0800 From: john Subject: RE: vacuum leaks At 03:27 PM 12/30/98 -0500, David Masinick wrote: >Hey John, > >Bingo! You answered your own question. Test the slow diaphragm and you >likely will find it is the culprit. That's how I isolated mine after >replacing the ignition shut-off. Sure, you can disconnect the offending >unit. Just be sure to plug the line back to the system so you aren't >venting the system more than your leaking diaphragm does. Do I just plug both lines??? both ends??? 4 golf tees... :) > >For future reference, you can pull up your carpet (it is nice that they used >snaps instead of glue), and all of the vacuum lines run along the floorboard >with some nice rubber connections along the way that can be disconnected to >test the individual circuits. >I was going to suggest the "look for the slow lock" method in my last note, >but decided against it in case it was your fuel door or trunk lock. > >Which manual did you use to troubleshoot? I thought the factory manual did >a pretty good job on the Central Locking System (it is in the 123 Chassis >and Body Manual Vol. 2). I've got them... which pages should I look at? > >BTW, I am interested in the headlight conversion on my 300D. How much did >this cost you? I thought the Hella lights from Impco for $51 each was a >little steep (we are frugal here in New Hampshire), but I keep hearing >gushing praises for the Euro spec lights. I have read a bunch of posts and >web-site articles by Daniel Stern of Stern Lighting on the topic of lighting >conversion. Maybe I'll take the plunge some day. They are good... much better than standard halogen replacement lamps... john > >Bye for now, Dave > >-----Original Message----- >From: john-at-virtual-cafe.com [mailto:john-at-virtual-cafe.com] >Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 2:58 PM >To: David Masinick >Cc: 'Diesel-Benz List' >Subject: RE: vacuum leaks > >At 09:57 AM 12/30/98 -0500, David Masinick wrote: >>John, >>You may have a leaking diaphragm on one of your doors, your fuel door, or >>your trunk. On my 300D, I had BOTH a leaking shutoff switch on the back of >>the ignition keyswitch and a bad diaphragm on a door lock. It took awhile >>to trace both of those down (lack of experience), but with a factory manual >>and a mightyvac, I feel confident that I can trace most of them (leaks) >>down. > >Thanx for the input David... > >Any tips on how to isolate the leaker? Lets say it's the rear door, >driver's >side. Could I just plug off those lines and operate the lock manually? >I guess the unit is only about $80 at the dealer, $60 via IMPCO... But >I don't want to use the shotgun approach to Mercedes repair... :) Actually, >I think I did plug those lines and the motor still "dieseled". :) > >The factory manual does not provide a good troubleshooting aid for this >system... unless I haven't found the right section.... > >I had GP Automotive in Everett, WA troubleshoot it once. He found a bad >trunk element and master switch element. I've replaced both and the doors >work fine now, except the drivers side rear door, it's slow... > >john >---------------------------------------------- >john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com > Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... > ------------ > http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html > Jesus - don't leave life without him... >---------------------------------------------------- > > > > - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... ------------ http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html Jesus - don't leave life without him... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 17:45:01 -0600 From: Alec Cordova Subject: Miscellaneous ramblings/ Fixing Old Smokey No particular questions in this post, I'm just a little brain dead this afternoon, and want to ramble on about the car. I'm referring to her (maroon 85 300DT) as Old Smokey, but that may be subject to modification. It just doesn't fit quite as well as the last one. We had an 80 240D, in that light beige/tan color, perfectly named Cream Puff. Soft and sweet. Anyway, since I still find myself with a distinct lack of appropriate tools, Old Smokey went to Ben's Workshop in Austin yesterday. I figure he can spend 1998's budget on her, and help me identify/prioritize future work that I can attempt myself. Her symptoms have been identified as a dying inner right CV joint, misbehaving brakes, including a half-frozen right front caliper and hot-spotted rotors, a dead climate control blower motor, two dead glow plugs, dead rear sway bar bushing, assorted dead or dying front suspension rubber parts, and a couple of small gasket leaks under the hood. It's embarrassing to realize how much I've been neglecting her these last few years, but encouraging to realize she's still such a pleasure to live with, even with all of these problems. When she's finished tomorrow, she'll be the proud recipient of half a new axle, a revitalized brake system, and a full set of reamed and replaced glow plugs. At least she'll start, go, and stop. As long as I keep her moving, I get SOME air through the climate control system, of reasonably appropriate temperature, but I'll HAVE to fix that blower before the Texas summer rolls around in March or April. Hope Santa (or your favorite/preferred holiday character) was good to you and yours. Maybe he even gave some restraint to Neil, however unlikely it is that he'll imbibe. Stay warm, and don't rely on your Benz to drive you home drunk. (I had to throw a couple of jabs into this post!) Regards, Alec Cordova Taylor, Texas 85 300DT, >185K 97 BMW Z3 1.9 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 17:09:03 -0800 From: john Subject: vacuum and HEATER David, et al, forgot that the heater doesn't always work properly either. If I let it run in the morning until warm I'll have heat until I start driving it or make any adjustments to it. The A/C worked fine all summer... Is the heat control related to vacuum??? Thanx, on the section number I'll check it out... john john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... ------------ http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html Jesus - don't leave life without him... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 18:14:58 -0800 From: john Subject: RE: vacuum leaks At 06:47 PM 12/30/98 -0500, you wrote: >Hi John, > >Thanks for the endorsement on the lights! no problem... I'm so happy with them after suffering through a bad halogen and an old incadescent unit that I robbed from one of my old jeeps... :) > >1. You only have to plug the line back to the main system, not the line to >the offending unit. ok. >2. Look in section 80, Central Locking System. Read the whole section >because it explains the theory before walking you though the tests. I've TRIED to read this... I'm sorry I've only had postgraduate education... :) Try this on for size: "The utilization of pneumatic pressure-difference forces for completing certain functions in a vehicle is increasingly gaining in significance. Well known examples for the employment of such pneumatic forces are the adjustment of the firing point by means of a vacuum..." Then I'm not sure where to go because the phrase off to the right and up doesn't make much more sense... Maybe I should get the German version. :) Who wrote this stuff any ways? The Germans I worked with in electronics and telecommunications, and the Germans I'm working with with Software and CAD systems don't communicate like this!!!! I'll try to read it... I will, I really will... :) Anyone have the reader's digest version? :) john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... ------------ http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html Jesus - don't leave life without him... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:44:33 -0600 (CST) From: "M. Mason" Subject: Re: vacuum and HEATER john -- It seems in my '80 240d (123) that the flaps in the firewall which are adjusted when i "crank up the heat," opening wider the more I turn the dial, have some component of vacuum control as well. When I swapped the doors from the '82 parts hulk (and the vacuum system was wide open), those flaps didn't open at all. _____________________________ Matthew J. Mason mmason-at-blue.weeg.uiowa.edu On Wed, 30 Dec 1998, john wrote: > David, et al, > > forgot that the heater doesn't always work properly either. > If I let it run in the morning until warm I'll have heat until > I start driving it or make any adjustments to it. > > The A/C worked fine all summer... > > Is the heat control related to vacuum??? > > Thanx, on the section number I'll check it out... > john > john > ---------------------------------------------- > john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com > Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... > ------------ > http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html > Jesus - don't leave life without him... > ---------------------------------------------------- > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 00:06:03 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: vacuum and HEATER At 08:44 PM 12/30/98 -0600, M. Mason wrote: >>john -- >>It seems in my '80 240d (123) that the flaps in the firewall which are >adjusted when i "crank up the heat," opening wider the more I turn the >dial, have some component of vacuum control as well. When I swapped the >doors from the '82 parts hulk (and the vacuum system was wide open), those >flaps didn't open at all. >_____________________________ >Matthew J. Mason >mmason-at-blue.weeg.uiowa.edu For enterainment this evening I read section 80 of Vol2 of the Service Manual... my wife woke me up in time for Dharma and Greg... :) Tomorrow I'll trace some of the vacuum lines back and see if the heater controls have the right lines. Between the manual and the IMPCO catalog I should be able to sort out the plumbing. I should have a MightyVac tester in at NAPA one of these days... I know this isn't a big problem, but this and that little light for the heater controls is gonna take a day to troubleshoot, I just know it... :) You know, thinking about it I'm wondering if the previous owner, or the shop he used, didn't scramble the stuff under the dash. You wouldn't believe how the radios was wired... Seems my friend had some trouble with water getting into the heater or something... I haven't looked at the rest of the stuff in the console. I wouldn't be surprised if he cross plumbed something by accident. Thanx for the reminder Matt... john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... ------------ http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html Jesus - don't leave life without him... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #64 ********************************