From: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net (diesel-benz-digest) To: diesel-benz-digest-at-krusty-motorsports.com Subject: diesel-benz-digest V1 #65 Reply-To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Sender: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Errors-To: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Precedence: bulk diesel-benz-digest Friday, January 1 1999 Volume 01 : Number 065 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles John Meister Digest Coordinator Contents: 8.5 seconds 0 to 60mph! MB/Jeep world vehicle... RE: vacuum and HEATER Re: MB/Jeep world vehicle... RE: vacuum and HEATER mono valve or aux water pump publishers? Re: 8.5 seconds 0 to 60mph! RE: vacuum and HEATER RE: vacuum and HEATER RE: mono valve or aux water pump 300SD MPG Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 00:15:53 -0800 From: john Subject: 8.5 seconds 0 to 60mph! 8.5 seconds!! 27mpg in town and 30 something on the highway! I wish Jeep would put a Diesel in their rig, or MB would make the ML270TD available here... Anyways, I've picked out the colors of the E300 Turbo Diesel I want, and my wife even agrees on the colors: smoke-silver with the gray leather interior. Sunroof, A/c, and so on. Ok, so who's going to buy it and take care of it for, oh, say, 15 years or so until we can afford it? :-) We'll be waiting and enjoying Fritz and the little wagoneer in the meantime... Take good care of him... :-) Fritz only has 132,000 miles on him, the little wagoneer just turned 189,000, original engine/trans/xfr case! These 4.0L xj's are pretty decent rigs for an american built system using gasoline... :) john ------------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com - http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john http://www.wagoneers.com Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... ------------------------------------------------- http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ (81 300D) ------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 08:47:18 +0000 From: Tony Wirtel Subject: MB/Jeep world vehicle... john wrote: > > maybe a 300TD in that old 81 J10 out in my yard might just be the way to > go... :) > > later, > john THAT would be something...MB power unit in an AMC with GM ignition key, Ford electrical bits and a sprinkling from most of the rest of the world. Perhaps you could drop in some miscellaneous parts from Jaguar, BMW and something from Japan and you'd have your stage one world car. Stage two would be stuff from Korea, Russia and the former Eastern block, but would only reduce power and perforamnce with added weight!!! Regards, Tony ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 09:04:47 -0500 From: "David Masinick" Subject: RE: vacuum and HEATER Hi John, Yes the heater control doors are vacuum-operated, but this one sounds non-vacuum related. The nice thing about these cars is their predictability. If your fan is blowing the cool air out of the right vents, it sounds like you have a problem with the mono valve, or with your auxiliary coolant pump. The aux pump circulates the coolant through the heating system. The mono valve is cheap and easy to repair. It has a rubber diaphragm (surprise!) that eventually fails. The mono valve is located on the firewall inboard of the battery. It has coolant hoses running in and out, and has a flat, square top with an electrical connection. It is mounted at the highest point in the cooling system, so you don't have to drain the coolant to repair it (great engineering!). You can get a repair kit for the mono valve from your dealer or Impco. I haven't had to diagnose the aux pump yet, however.........if you have not yet invested, buy a manual from you dealer entitled Service Manual Heater, Air Conditioning, Automatic Climate Control Model 123. It has a great system description and diagnostic section. I'll forewarn you on your car ('81 300D?) that the heater/A/C pushbutton control unit will go bad eventually. I have fooled with units from salvage yards ($100) and eventually bought a rebuilt one (2 yr warranty) from Impco, although I'm sure they are sold by others. Anyway, I get ahead of myself. Get the manual and check the mono valve and aux pump first. Regards, Dave - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of john Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 8:09 PM To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Subject: vacuum and HEATER David, et al, forgot that the heater doesn't always work properly either. If I let it run in the morning until warm I'll have heat until I start driving it or make any adjustments to it. The A/C worked fine all summer... Is the heat control related to vacuum??? Thanx, on the section number I'll check it out... john john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... ------------ http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html Jesus - don't leave life without him... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 09:57:30 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: MB/Jeep world vehicle... At 08:47 AM 12/31/98 +0000, Tony Wirtel wrote: >john wrote: >> maybe a 300TD in that old 81 J10 out in my yard might just be the way to >> go... :) >> later, >> john > >THAT would be something...MB power unit in an AMC with GM ignition key, Ford >electrical bits and a sprinkling from most of the rest of the world. Perhaps >you could drop in some miscellaneous parts from Jaguar, BMW and something from >Japan and you'd have your stage one world car. Stage two would be stuff from >Korea, Russia and the former Eastern block, but would only reduce power and >perforamnce with added weight!!! >Regards, >Tony Jeep has already done this... :) They've mixed Kaiser, Buick, Ford, GM, Renault, Chrysler and who knows what into some of their rigs. :) My 85 xj had a Renault Turbo Diesel with some Bosch components, Ford glass, Chrysler and GM stuff... Always fun to work on. :) Man, do I ever LOVE my Mercedes. It's so nice having a vehicle that is NOT a rolling project that is never completed. :) There is always something else you can do to "improve" a Jeep (instead of just fixing it.) I think I'm gonna go outside and give Fritz a hug now... :-) john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com 81 J10 / 81 300D / 88 wagoneer limited (xj) Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 10:22:01 -0800 From: john Subject: RE: vacuum and HEATER David, This is awesome information. I'm usually giving info like this to Jeep SJ/XJ owners. Now I know how they feel. :) Thanx. Yep, the air vents change position when I push the buttons... I'm buying a complete set of manuals from a friend over at Boeing that just sold his 300CD... man, I'm kicking myself that I didn't get on that ferry and buy that rig when I had a chance... His son ended up buying it and then trading it in for a new truck... It was my favorite color and everything... oh well... I should have the manuals in a week or two. Is there some way of testing that valve thing out manually? Any ideas on why the door locks work ok but the car won't shut off quickly? I had all the lock system checked out by a shop and they diagnosed the trunk element and master switch as bad, replaced them and seems to have fixed the lock, except that the passdoor drivers side is slow... will disconnect and see if that helps anything... thanx again, john At 09:04 AM 12/31/98 -0500, David Masinick wrote: >Hi John, >Yes the heater control doors are vacuum-operated, but this one sounds >non-vacuum related. >The nice thing about these cars is their predictability. If your fan is >blowing the cool air out of the right vents, it sounds like you have a >problem with the mono valve, or with your auxiliary coolant pump. The aux >pump circulates the coolant through the heating system. The mono valve is >cheap and easy to repair. It has a rubber diaphragm (surprise!) that >eventually fails. The mono valve is located on the firewall inboard of the >battery. It has coolant hoses running in and out, and has a flat, square >top with an electrical connection. It is mounted at the highest point in >the cooling system, so you don't have to drain the coolant to repair it >(great engineering!). You can get a repair kit for the mono valve from your >dealer or Impco. I haven't had to diagnose the aux pump yet, >however.........if you have not yet invested, buy a manual from you dealer >entitled Service Manual Heater, Air Conditioning, Automatic Climate Control >Model 123. It has a great system description and diagnostic section. >I'll forewarn you on your car ('81 300D?) that the heater/A/C pushbutton >control unit will go bad eventually. I have fooled with units from salvage >yards ($100) and eventually bought a rebuilt one (2 yr warranty) from Impco, >although I'm sure they are sold by others. >Anyway, I get ahead of myself. Get the manual and check the mono valve and >aux pump first. > >Regards, > Dave > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On >Behalf Of john >Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 8:09 PM >To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net >Subject: vacuum and HEATER > >David, et al, > >forgot that the heater doesn't always work properly either. >If I let it run in the morning until warm I'll have heat until >I start driving it or make any adjustments to it. > >The A/C worked fine all summer... > >Is the heat control related to vacuum??? > >Thanx, on the section number I'll check it out... >john >john >---------------------------------------------- >john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com > Jeeps don't rust in Snohomish, WA, they mold... > ------------ > http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/saved.html > Jesus - don't leave life without him... >---------------------------------------------------- > > > > - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com 81 J10 / 81 300D / 88 wagoneer limited (xj) Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 10:52:15 -0800 From: john Subject: mono valve or aux water pump David, et al, I'm looking at the IMPCo catalog. Both parts are over $100 each... Which is more likely to fail, and how to I bypass or test them? It'll be a week or two before I can get the shop manuals... I've got Vol 1 & 2 only... These MB's are so much easier to work on than American iron. These things are well engineered. The symptoms are that if it's sitting it works mostly fine. If I adjust the temperature or am driving, it doesn't work... vents blow air and changes from defrost to vents etc when buttons are pushed... (What really makes this an issue is the theromstat in the little wagoneer isn't allowing it to heat up all the way so both rigs are cold right now... doesn't bother me or my son, but the females in the household don't approve... and it's a lot easier to work on the Benz than to change the tstat in the 4.0L and have to bleed that coolant system... :) I think Jeep worked a little too closely with the French on this design... :) john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... Jesus - don't leave life without him... http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 11:06:10 -0800 From: john Subject: publishers? Anyone know of a publisher? I'm working on a book on Jeeps and am wondering what format they'll want it in. Most of my stuff is either in Word or HTML. I can press it onto a CDROM... Or do they want hard copy??? Guess it'd be nice to know which way to go so I don't have to do it twice. The word files are getting quite large though... I'm looking for any advice I can find at this point. thanx, john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com 81 J10 / 81 300D / 88 wagoneer limited (xj) Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 13:03:26 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: 8.5 seconds 0 to 60mph! At 02:53 PM 10/31/98 -0600, Jason Zolghadr wrote: >At 12:15 AM 12/31/98 -0800, you wrote: >>8.5 seconds!! 27mpg in town and 30 something on the highway! >>I wish Jeep would put a Diesel in their rig, > >They do...The hummer! > >-Jason Zolghadr > "Call you out our name...but be forwarned, dear" > ah yes, the AM part of AMC. :) only problem is the hummer is too wide and a tad bit unrefined for my tastes... :) after having several full size leather lined Jeeps and a few Mercedes autos I'm very spoiled. :) john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... Jesus - don't leave life without him... http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 16:16:05 -0500 From: "David Masinick" Subject: RE: vacuum and HEATER Hi John, To check the mono valve diaphragm, with engine cold, disconnect the electrical plug (careful not to break off one of the ears), pull the four screws and lift the valve element out. You will see immediately if the diaphragm is ripped. To check the electrical portion of the mono valve is a little more involved and is covered in the Heater/AC manual. Requires pulling out your glove box, and using an ohm meter. The circulation pump should be running (I think you should be able to hold the body of the pump and feel it operating) when the coolant is above 40 degrees C, and the heater is turned on. I am almost certain you'll find the mono valve is the target. On the follow-up on the slow lock, the diaphragms don't necessarily leak until the vacuum reservoir is empty, since they are bi-directional units (you'll understand after you work on one). Your engine might shut off faster locked or unlocked, depending on the failure mode of the faulty unit. There is a vacuum accumulator (above the fuel tank under the rear package shelf) that looks like a pool-ball case. That probably is not cracked (it's plastic), but it could be. I have only had problems with "things that move". I have not found any cracked lines or rubber connections (although mine has led a very sheltered life). BTW, I get a kick out of helping others, so this is fun for me. You know the feeling. Happy New Year, Dave - -----Original Message----- From: john-at-virtual-cafe.com [mailto:john-at-virtual-cafe.com] Sent: Thursday, December 31, 1998 1:22 PM To: David Masinick Cc: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Subject: RE: vacuum and HEATER David, This is awesome information. I'm usually giving info like this to Jeep SJ/XJ owners. Now I know how they feel. :) Thanx. Yep, the air vents change position when I push the buttons... I'm buying a complete set of manuals from a friend over at Boeing that just sold his 300CD... man, I'm kicking myself that I didn't get on that ferry and buy that rig when I had a chance... His son ended up buying it and then trading it in for a new truck... It was my favorite color and everything... oh well... I should have the manuals in a week or two. Is there some way of testing that valve thing out manually? Any ideas on why the door locks work ok but the car won't shut off quickly? I had all the lock system checked out by a shop and they diagnosed the trunk element and master switch as bad, replaced them and seems to have fixed the lock, except that the passdoor drivers side is slow... will disconnect and see if that helps anything... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:18:14 -0800 From: john Subject: RE: vacuum and HEATER At 04:16 PM 12/31/98 -0500, David Masinick wrote: >Hi John, > >To check the mono valve diaphragm, with engine cold, disconnect the >electrical plug (careful not to break off one of the ears), pull the four >screws and lift the valve element out. You will see immediately if the >diaphragm is ripped. To check the electrical portion of the mono valve is a >little more involved and is covered in the Heater/AC manual. Requires >pulling out your glove box, and using an ohm meter. > >The circulation pump should be running (I think you should be able to hold >the body of the pump and feel it operating) when the coolant is above 40 >degrees C, and the heater is turned on. I am almost certain you'll find the >mono valve is the target. > >On the follow-up on the slow lock, the diaphragms don't necessarily leak >until the vacuum reservoir is empty, since they are bi-directional units >(you'll understand after you work on one). Your engine might shut off >faster locked or unlocked, depending on the failure mode of the faulty unit. >There is a vacuum accumulator (above the fuel tank under the rear package >shelf) that looks like a pool-ball case. That probably is not cracked (it's >plastic), but it could be. I have only had problems with "things that >move". I have not found any cracked lines or rubber connections (although >mine has led a very sheltered life). > >BTW, I get a kick out of helping others, so this is fun for me. You know >the feeling. >Happy New Year, > Dave great stuff. I'm working on my Jeep book today, and of course, as normal, it's mizzling outside. I'm gonna try shutting off with the locks engaged and see if it makes a difference... I doubt it. The shop gave a clean bill of health to the storage tank, etc. So either I have a routing problem. My guess the vacuum problem is related to that because of the symptom of not having full power after shutting off without locking up... :) This stuff is too strange. If this were a Jeep I'd just replace all the rubber components and it'd be fine... :) john ============================================================= The just shall live by Faith... Der Gerechte wird aus Glauben leben... Mas El Justo vivira Por Fe... Le Juste vivra par la foi... Habakkuk 2:4b, Romans 1:17, Galations 3:11, Hebrews 10:38 ============================================================= john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com/LivingByFaith/ ============================================================= ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:14:31 -0800 From: john Subject: RE: mono valve or aux water pump At 04:19 PM 12/31/98 -0500, David Masinick wrote: >John, > >You don't need to replace the whole mono valve, just buy the rebuild kit (I >think it's $19 or something). > Dave $31.18 in the current IMPCO catalog, but better than $121.68. (you have to wonder how they come up with their pricing... :) john - ---------------------------------------------- john-at-virtual-cafe.com http://www.wagoneers.com Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... Jesus - don't leave life without him... http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john - ---------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 15:16:43 -0500 From: Chris Klass Subject: 300SD MPG I would like to know what kind of MPG everyone who has a simular car is getting. Thanks - -- Chris Klass New Jersey 82 300SD - 139k miles 84 Volvo 245 - 85k miles 98 Monster 750 - Just plain Magic ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #65 ********************************