From: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net (diesel-benz-digest) To: diesel-benz-digest-at-krusty-motorsports.com Subject: diesel-benz-digest V1 #189 Reply-To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Sender: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Errors-To: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Precedence: bulk diesel-benz-digest Saturday, August 14 1999 Volume 01 : Number 189 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles John Meister Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: recommended mechanics in Portland Oregon Re: Moving to Clackamas Re: Moving to Clackamas Re: 116 a/c parts adapting a later glow relay Re: adapting a later glow relay Re: xj: RE: Synthethic stock Re: adapting a later glow relay Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 22:09:02 PDT From: Daniel A Jacobs Subject: Re: recommended mechanics in Portland Oregon MBI Motors, 1309 SE Hawthorne blvd, 503-231-0444 Dan kc7nol-at-juno.com On Fri, 06 Aug 1999 22:10:44 -0700 john writes: >do you have number and address? > >john > >At 12:25 AM 8/6/99 PDT, Daniel A Jacobs wrote: >>BTW, there are german car parts all over this town, MBI in SE >Portland >>handles all MBZ parts, new and used. >>>the german auto salvage place in Gresham doesn't deal w/ MBz, >>>so where do y'all find parts? >>> >>>john >> >----------------------------------------------------- > john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com > ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! > Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... >----------------------------------------------------- ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 22:07:10 PDT From: Daniel A Jacobs Subject: Re: Moving to Clackamas On Fri, 06 Aug 1999 22:09:54 -0700 john pondered: >Anyways... are there any Benz yards down your way??? I just bought >a window regulator and motor from Aurora Auto Wrecking will come via >UPS on monday... Have dealt with Benz friends in the past... > >john Johns import auto wrecking is the big one in the portland area, decent selection, good guarantee, good prices. Like those easy to damage fog lights on the 123, $12 in like new condition. Dan kc7nol-at-juno.com ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 22:15:48 -0700 From: john Subject: Re: Moving to Clackamas At 10:07 PM 8/10/99 PDT, Daniel A Jacobs wrote: >Johns import auto wrecking is the big one in the portland area, decent >selection, good guarantee, good prices. Like those easy to damage fog >lights on the 123, $12 in like new condition. >Dan >kc7nol-at-juno.com Where is John's Imports? Is that down on SE 82 or up in NE somewhere? john - ----------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 03:18:30 -0500 From: "Jon Filina" Subject: Re: 116 a/c parts John decided to make his W116 a bit cooler to drive and asked: > I am contemplating fixing my a/c system. It has not worked in at least 10 > years, I know the compressor is shot. I was wondering if I should buy a > compressor and reciver dryer, replace all the o-rings for r-134 evacuate and > charge with dye and look for leaks or just start new with hoses, evaporator > etc.I'm in the process of converting my son's 318 BMW, almost as nice to > work on as my '79 300SD. Thanks John A friend of mine is in the process of repairing the a/c on his '80 300SD. Being a college professor, he researched this subject to the nth degree and came to the conclusion that it was best to stay with the R12, Freon, if at all possible. The conversion to R134a, while feasible, did not make sense here in Texas due to the high summer temps. Up north, you may not notice it, but here in Texas the less efficient R134a would not cool the car near as well as the old Freon, R12. With your '79 300SD, you'll be replacing the compressor and the drier. You should also have the hoses and o-rings swapped out in addition to the evaporator valve. For the R134a to be as efficient, here in Texas, a larger condenser should be installed. The difference in price of installing a larger condenser and converting to R134a compared to thoroughly flushing the existing condenser and evaporator and filling the system with R12 would be much more cost effective. R12 will be with us for quite some time. It is much more efficient that R134a, and only 10% more harmful to the environment (if you buy that line of doodoo) and shouldn't need any servicing for several years since you've already replaced everything in the a/c system except for the evaporator and condenser! I'll be getting the A/C on my '81 240D back on line in the next month or so, and intend to stay with R12 if at all possible. Good luck. Jon '81 240D 231,000 "Mathilde" ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 20:38:47 -0400 From: "Matthew J. Mason" Subject: adapting a later glow relay Hi... I've hit a snag... The '82 (parts) 240D uses a glow plug relay (the box in the driver's front corner on the 123 cars), and Jeff D. was kind enough to open ours up a while back and wire it for a cutoff switch (to avoid burning out the plugs). We'd really like to adapt it to the '80, but find that the connectors are very different (and the wires are probably color-coded very differently as well, if past experience is any indication). We've misplaced the guide I drew up last year indicating which color on the '80 system corresponds on the '82, so can anyone point me to a source (or, do you happen to know the correlation offhand)? Admittedly I haven't checked the Haynes book yet.. off to do that right now... Also -- where did we decide was the best place to send a fritzed-out cruise amplifier? My ISP isn't letting me connect right now, but if someone remembers the digest numbers where this was covered, I'll check out the links on wagoneers.com thanks -- mjm ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 23:30:25 -0400 From: "Matthew J. Mason" Subject: Re: adapting a later glow relay *thwacks self in forehead* Oops, the wiring diagrams were right under my nose. Making sense of them, on the other hand, will take a little time... :) Still looking for cruise amp hints, though. I'm about to complain to the internet people... we've been without access for a day or two already. > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 20:48:03 -0700 From: john Subject: Re: xj: RE: Synthethic stock At 06:52 PM 8/13/99 -0400, Doug Wright wrote: >So, is this correct? .... Some synthetics are made by filtering out a >petroleum based product so that all the molecules are of uniform size and structure, and a true >synthetic is made through a reaction between molecules of non-petroleum >products. there's more to it. The engineered synthetic has better thermal and shear characteristics. >Is the end result of both processes a product with the same molecular structure? no, they're not the same. The petroleum product does not have the same molecular bonding characteristics as a synthetic. I'm not a chemist so my explanations are not going to adequately explain the differences. >If so, why would my 4.0L care how it was made? If they are different, what >makes a true synthetic better? a true synthethic will have much better thermal characteristics, higher shear strength, will resist oxidation and water contamination, and because of it's molecular structure will tend to cling to metal parts because of the electrical attraction. This is why a true synthetic will protect an engine that has lost it's primary cooling system or even lost an oil pump. I've heard of countless stories of folks loosing an oil pump or all their oil and the only reason the motor shut off is because the lifters collapsed! Remember that your oil provides something like 40% of your engine cooling! That's why most Diesels, police interceptors, and high performance cars have engine oil coolers. The specifications of any true synthetic will clearly exceed those of a petroleum based lubricant or a synthesized hydro-carbon based lubricant. To sum up, you get cling factor so you're engine is protected on startup, you have better heat transfer so your engine will run cooler and the oil won't oxidize (turn dark and smelly), will provide more protection for your internal parts, will protect your engine against rust, will resist mixing with water, will flow at very cold temperatures (this was one of the reasons the Germans developed synthetics, because of the east front...) but will not break down at higher temperatures. The Corvette and Mercedes come out of the factory now with Synthetics! The selling point of amsoil, is the formulation for extended drain intervals. This is possible because of the ability to hold dirt in suspension until filtered, and the way the oil is designed. Other synthetics will have benefits for racing, like higher shear or extreme pressure ratings, or higher temperature ranges, etc. There are trade-offs, you give something here for something there. The trick is to hit a balance where you get most of everything you want. :) I've been a dealer since 1983, I'm a dealer because I use it and know it's a good product. I'm not making (and not trying to make) any money at it, and don't care. :) I really believe the air filters are the best value in the auto business. They cost half of what a K&N does and filter so much better... But don't believe me, look at the spec sheets I've scanned in and copied up to my server. Let the data speak for itself. http://www.wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/Filter_INFORMATION/air_filter-1.jpg http://www.wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/Filter_INFORMATION/air_filter-2.jpg Remember also, that higher flow rates don't mean squat. A 600cfm carb on a 360 used in a jeep is too much if you do the math. So don't be mislead by the flow info, even a clean paper element works for getting air in... it's just that they clog up fast and you loose it right away. An amsoil filter is consistent until it can't hold any more... and it holds more than a K&N. I've had a couple K&N's and hated them. They are a pain to maintain and let way too much crap through. sorry for going so long... :) Synthetics are great. (what really scares me is when I see a local government vehicle running around with a bumper sticker saying they're using recycled oil! yikes.) john - ----------------------------------------------------- http://www.wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/ To order 1-800-956-5695 customer# 283461 Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 20:57:37 -0700 From: john Subject: Re: adapting a later glow relay At 08:38 PM 8/13/99 -0400, Matthew J. Mason wrote: >Also -- where did we decide was the best place to send a fritzed-out cruise >amplifier? My ISP isn't letting me connect right now, but if someone >remembers the digest numbers where this was covered, I'll check out the >links on wagoneers.com If you're looking to send one for experimentation I'll take it. I've kind of wanted to reverse engineer one and tighten up the hysteresis so it behaves better... If I were gonna score a new one I'd check with Rusty. john - ----------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com http://www.wagoneers.com ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #189 *********************************