From: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net (diesel-benz-digest) To: diesel-benz-digest-at-krusty-motorsports.com Subject: diesel-benz-digest V1 #197 Reply-To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Sender: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Errors-To: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Precedence: bulk diesel-benz-digest Monday, August 30 1999 Volume 01 : Number 197 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles John Meister Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: eberspacher and ratio questions Re: oil cooler flush Re: oil cooler flush Re: oil cooler flush Re: oil cooler flush Re: oil cooler flush Engine knock Re: Engine knock Re: Engine knock Re: Engine knock Re: oil cooler flush Re: oil cooler flush Re: oil cooler flush balancing drift Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 19:37:32 PDT From: Daniel A Jacobs Subject: Re: eberspacher and ratio questions I got an engine block heater installed in my '79 300 D for $150. IMO, pay more than that in american $'s, and it had better be gold plated and plug itself in at night. Dan kc7nol-at-juno.com On Mon, 23 Aug 1999 09:46:32 -0400 "S.D.Byers" writes: > >Does anybody have a eberspacher hydronic diesel block pre-heater on >their >300D, and where is the best place to buy one, which one do you have, >etc >etc etc? > >I am looking into a D5W hydronic for mine. Prices seem to be around >the 1k >mark, for the kit. > >Also, does anybody know the final drive ratio for the early 80s 300D, >300SD std and turbo? Also max rpm? > > >Also, what do people know about the "idle stabiliser screw" thing? I >have >been told it is great thing to replace, being a 20 dollar part, and >it >can make you run much smoother. I have one for the 300SD I am driving >(not >my car) but do not know where to put it. > > > Thanks, > Simon Byers. > > > ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 13:13:26 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: oil cooler flush it has been said over and over by makers of Diesel engines not to use 10w40 oils in a Diesel. Whether this is still true is not known to me. The reason is that the vi improvers used in 10w40 will collect on the rings and actually score the cylinder walls... Isn't it Shell Delo??? Many truckers I've talked to use Delo, whether it's shell or chevron doesn't matter. :) Pennzoil is bad news from my experience in a gas engine... major crud... coking and varnish in a 4.0L jeep engine I bought, service records showed Pennzoil and Valvoline... engine had major deposits in it, nasty... FWIW, I typically go about 5,000 to 7,000 miles with my AMSOIL 15w40 Marine Grade Synthetic Diesel oil, even though AMSOIL says it'll go 15,000 miles. Of course Fritz seems to leak or burn it anyways, I'm putting a quart in every other tank it seems anyways... (a quart in 800 to 1000 miles?) In fact, I'm in the mode now where I just change the filter and keep adding oil... :) john On Sat, 28 Aug 1999, Daniel A Jacobs wrote: >-->If your oil stays clean at all after an oil change in a diesel engine, >-->you are one of the few for all the engines out there. Make sure you use >-->an oil that is designed for diesel engines, there is more crud and >-->unburned fuel in diesel engine oil than in a comparably used gasoline >-->model. There are special additives in oil designed for diesel motors >-->that likely aren't present in oil for gasoline engines. I use Chevron >-->Delo 400 15-40 in my car. The previous owner used penzoil 10-40 for >-->gasoline engines. Now my car smokes less, runs more quietly, and goes >-->longer between oil changes. Do not worry about flushing the oil cooler, >-->what little oil remains in there will not hurt anything when the oil is >-->changed, since you sound like the type that changes oil often to worry >-->about something like that. the only piece of advice left to give you is >-->frequent oil changes (3K miles) is the best insurance to keeping the >-->engine running for a long time. >--> >-->By the way, there was a message about x-40 weight oils causing garbage to >-->collect in the crankcase of some unlucky motors due to modifiers used to >-->make it 40 weight, and the resulting engine damage was very expensive. >-->The trucking industry uses 15-40 oil almost exclusively in their heavy >-->duty engines, and those engines are now able to run more than 1,000,000 >-->before a tear down is necessary, and most tear downs at that mileage >-->weren't quite necessary, but the bearings, etc., are replaced because the >-->engine is torn down already, may as well do that, too. Sounds to me that >-->oil wasn't being changed often enough or the wrong oil was used for the >-->engine type or the work the engine was made to do. >--> >-->Dan >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com **** Snohomish, Washington USA don't leave life without jesus, please... http://wagoneers.com - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 14:10:28 PDT From: Daniel A Jacobs Subject: Re: oil cooler flush The heavy duty engine manufacturers (cummins, detroit diesel, caterpillar, international, mack, volvo, etc.,) all send out their newly manufactured engines with a high quality heavy duty 15-40 oil in them. It is the recommended oil for nearly all temperatures encountered in the continental US and canada. If the temps get below 30 degrees F, most truckers don't shut their trucks off anyway, anything inside would freeze by the time they finished unloading for an extended period, and new low sulfur fuels have a cloud point of around 5*F, so they are not shut off anywhere near that for obvious reasons. The trucking company I used to drive for as a team long haul 48 states and canada driver had a policy that the truck was not shut off if the temps got below 20*F. That was to keep the batteries topped off, the oil circulated in the engine, and the fuel warm and flowing. The 15-40 viscosity doesn't matter at that point if the engine continues to run until it gets _very_ much colder than that. Dan kc7nol-at-juno.com On Sun, 29 Aug 1999 13:13:26 -0700 (PDT) john writes: > >it has been said over and over by makers of Diesel engines not to use >10w40 oils in a Diesel. Whether this is still true is not known to >me. >The reason is that the vi improvers used in 10w40 will collect on the >rings and actually score the cylinder walls... > >Isn't it Shell Delo??? Many truckers I've talked to use Delo, whether >it's shell or chevron doesn't matter. :) Pennzoil is bad news from my >experience in a gas engine... major crud... coking and varnish in a >4.0L >jeep engine I bought, service records showed Pennzoil and Valvoline... >engine >had major deposits in it, nasty... > >FWIW, I typically go about 5,000 to 7,000 miles with my AMSOIL 15w40 >Marine >Grade Synthetic Diesel oil, even though AMSOIL says it'll go 15,000 >miles. >Of course Fritz seems to leak or burn it anyways, I'm putting a quart >in >every other tank it seems anyways... (a quart in 800 to 1000 miles?) >In >fact, I'm in the mode now where I just change the filter and keep >adding >oil... :) > >john > >On Sat, 28 Aug 1999, Daniel A Jacobs wrote: > >>-->If your oil stays clean at all after an oil change in a diesel >engine, >>-->you are one of the few for all the engines out there. Make sure >you use >>-->an oil that is designed for diesel engines, there is more crud and >>-->unburned fuel in diesel engine oil than in a comparably used >gasoline >>-->model. There are special additives in oil designed for diesel >motors >>-->that likely aren't present in oil for gasoline engines. I use >Chevron >>-->Delo 400 15-40 in my car. The previous owner used penzoil 10-40 >for >>-->gasoline engines. Now my car smokes less, runs more quietly, and >goes >>-->longer between oil changes. Do not worry about flushing the oil >cooler, >>-->what little oil remains in there will not hurt anything when the >oil is >>-->changed, since you sound like the type that changes oil often to >worry >>-->about something like that. the only piece of advice left to give >you is >>-->frequent oil changes (3K miles) is the best insurance to keeping >the >>-->engine running for a long time. >>--> >>-->By the way, there was a message about x-40 weight oils causing >garbage to >>-->collect in the crankcase of some unlucky motors due to modifiers >used to >>-->make it 40 weight, and the resulting engine damage was very >expensive. >>-->The trucking industry uses 15-40 oil almost exclusively in their >heavy >>-->duty engines, and those engines are now able to run more than >1,000,000 >>-->before a tear down is necessary, and most tear downs at that >mileage >>-->weren't quite necessary, but the bearings, etc., are replaced >because the >>-->engine is torn down already, may as well do that, too. Sounds to >me that >>-->oil wasn't being changed often enough or the wrong oil was used >for the >>-->engine type or the work the engine was made to do. >>--> >>-->Dan >>--> > > ---- > >------------------------------------------------------------------------- > john-at-wagoneers.com **** Snohomish, Washington USA > don't leave life without jesus, please... > http://wagoneers.com >------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 23:07:41 PDT From: Daniel A Jacobs Subject: Re: oil cooler flush On Sun, 29 Aug 1999 13:13:26 -0700 (PDT) john asked the most important question in the whole wide wide World of Sports (tm): >Isn't it Shell Delo??? Many truckers I've talked to use Delo, whether >it's shell or chevron doesn't matter. :) It is Chevron Delo 400, Or Shell Rotella, both good heavy duty diesel engine oils. Dan kc7nol-at-juno.com ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Aug 1999 23:43:09 PDT From: Daniel A Jacobs Subject: Re: oil cooler flush On Sun, 29 Aug 1999 13:13:26 -0700 (PDT) john was thinking about slippery subjects when he told us: >FWIW, I typically go about 5,000 to 7,000 miles with my AMSOIL 15w40 >Marine >Grade Synthetic Diesel oil, even though AMSOIL says it'll go 15,000 >miles. Consumer Reports (sue me, I used their name, I'm a Consumers Union member, kind of a Teamster of Truth in Advertising) did as test where they ran numerous taxi cabs in New York city for 60K miles and used almost the major brands of oil in dino and synthetic forms and found there to be such an insignificant difference in wear protection that they could not warrant paying the extra money for the synthetic. They suggested simply getting your oil changed every 3K miles (they went 6K miles for there testing between oil changes) and the difference should never even be noticeable between real and laboratory oil. Dan kc7nol-at-juno.com ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 01:44:57 -0500 From: "Jon Filina" Subject: Re: oil cooler flush John was commenting about oils and said: > it has been said over and over by makers of Diesel engines not to use > 10w40 oils in a Diesel. Whether this is still true is not known to me. > The reason is that the vi improvers used in 10w40 will collect on the > rings and actually score the cylinder walls... I've heard the same thing. 15w40 oils are a different beast though. I use Chevron Delo400 15w40 here in Texas, year round. I've used it about 3 years in two different diesel engines and have been happy with it. I tried Shell Rotella, essentially the same basic oil as Delo400, but it appeared to break down around 1500-2000 mi. resulting in slightly lower oil pressure at idle when the engine was fully warmed up. I went back to Delo400. > FWIW, I typically go about 5,000 to 7,000 miles with my AMSOIL 15w40 Marine > Grade Synthetic Diesel oil, even though AMSOIL says it'll go 15,000 miles. > Of course Fritz seems to leak or burn it anyways, I'm putting a quart in > every other tank it seems anyways... (a quart in 800 to 1000 miles?) Did you have any leaks on Fritz when you got him? Mathilde has none, and I'd like to keep it that way. The only reason I haven't switched to synthetic oil, aside from my "frugal" nature (cheapskate and worse, according to my wife...), is the possibility of a leak starting due to the thinner oil. The leak would start eventually, but I'd rather see it later than sooner..... I heard a little tip concerning oil consumption from another list I'm on, from a few individuals whose recommendations I fully trust. I haven't tried it yet, but will shortly. They said that when they change the oil, they refill so the dipstick reads half way between full and add. When it drops to add, they fill it back to the halfway point. Their oil consumption has dropped considerably. Where I am used to 800-1000 mi. per quart, they are getting about 2000-2500! > In fact, I'm in the mode now where I just change the filter and keep adding > oil... :) Funny....I hope. If you get down to 200-400 mi. per qt., supposedly MB's bottom end of their oil consumption specs, I'd consider it. Not at 800-1000, though. Incidently, John. I just installed Unix on my other partition.... This old CP/M and DOS head is goin' nuts...and having fun. I've got to get my Zip drive and the internet working then I'll see if I can live with it. So far, I like it. Jon '81 240D 232,000 mi. "Mathilde" Still drivin' 100 mi. a day and gettin' 33-34 mpg! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 09:23:30 -0400 From: Robbie Honerkamp Subject: Engine knock I've got an '82 300CD that has recently developed a slight knock in the engine when I accelerate. At first I thought that it might be a rod or something else bad. My mechanic says that it's a bad fuel injector. I've never heard of a bad injector causing a knock before. He suggested adding some transmission fluid to the diesel to quiet the knock until I could bring the car in for new injectors. Before I do this, I thought I'd check here, since I've never heard of any of this before.. Thanks, Robbie ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 09:34:20 -0500 (CDT) From: matthew j mason Subject: Re: Engine knock Robbie -- I've had the problem before... usually it means there's dirt or some kind of obstruction in your injector nozzle (one of four or five, depending on your engine). The apertures are SO small, and the fuel's going through them at such HIGH pressure, that any little change in the path (or, rather, in the pattern of fuel spray) as it enters the combustion chamber is going to cause some noise; the timing of the combustion in the cylinder which receives fuel from the sticking injector is going to be thrown off, and timing in a diesel (as we know) is VERY important. As for the ATF idea... I had heard the same thing, but I'm hesitant to add very much of anything that's so viscous to the system. It's logical to think that the lubricating qualities of ATF will help to un-stick a sticking injector nozzle, but it's important not to add too much, or to let that fuel stay in your tank for very long... ATF tends to get sludgy, I think... To find the troubled injector -- go somewhere where a few ounces of spilled diesel isn't going to be a problem. Run the car with one injector pipe loosened at a time (at the injector end is probably easiest)... the car will run roughly ANYWAY when the line is open like that, but when it sounds the least noisy (taking into account the open line), you've probably isolated the disconnected injector as the one with the problem. The mechanics of these injectors is not difficult to understand, or so I'm told... but I've never opened one up. ______________________________________________ Matthew J. Mason matthew-mason-at-uiowa.edu Colleges of Education and Liberal Arts University of Iowa On Mon, 30 Aug 1999, Robbie Honerkamp wrote: > I've got an '82 300CD that has recently developed a slight knock in the > engine when I accelerate. At first I thought that it might be a rod > or something else bad. My mechanic says that it's a bad fuel injector. > I've never heard of a bad injector causing a knock before. He suggested > adding some transmission fluid to the diesel to quiet the knock until > I could bring the car in for new injectors. Before I do this, I thought > I'd check here, since I've never heard of any of this before.. > > Thanks, > Robbie > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 09:16:13 PDT From: Daniel A Jacobs Subject: Re: Engine knock If transmission fluid was intended to be used to reduce knocking in diesel engines it would say so on the bottle. I would recommend using any of the major brand lubricity additives available for the newer low sulfur fuel currently sold. It will add lubrication agents that replace what was refined out of the fuel when the feds mandated low sulfur fuel. The brand I use is called Howes Lubricator, available usually at truck stops and very welled stocked auto parts stores. If you live where it gets pretty cold in the winter, the Howes company will pay your tow if you buy a case, send in the card you will find in the case, and then while using their product, your fuel gels in cold weather. And remember, folks, tranny fluid is only for drinkin' and tranny's. Dan kc7nol-at-juno.com On Mon, 30 Aug 1999 09:23:30 -0400 Robbie Honerkamp writes: >I've got an '82 300CD that has recently developed a slight knock in >the >engine when I accelerate. At first I thought that it might be a rod >or something else bad. My mechanic says that it's a bad fuel injector. >I've never heard of a bad injector causing a knock before. He >suggested >adding some transmission fluid to the diesel to quiet the knock until >I could bring the car in for new injectors. Before I do this, I >thought >I'd check here, since I've never heard of any of this before.. > >Thanks, >Robbie > > ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 10:10:27 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: Engine knock i wouldn't use atf in a diesel injection system... will damage the seals in the pump/injectors... I asked a shop about this once. use the stuff the truckers use, go to a truck stop or a co-op. AMSOIL makes several products as well that work quite well for cold weather or high sulfur fuels... john - ----------------------------------------------------- http://www.wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/ To order 1-800-956-5695 customer# 283461 - ----------------------------------------------------- On Mon, 30 Aug 1999, Daniel A Jacobs wrote: >-->If transmission fluid was intended to be used to reduce knocking in >-->diesel engines it would say so on the bottle. I would recommend using >-->any of the major brand lubricity additives available for the newer low >-->sulfur fuel currently sold. It will add lubrication agents that replace >-->what was refined out of the fuel when the feds mandated low sulfur fuel. >-->The brand I use is called Howes Lubricator, available usually at truck >-->stops and very welled stocked auto parts stores. If you live where it >-->gets pretty cold in the winter, the Howes company will pay your tow if >-->you buy a case, send in the card you will find in the case, and then >-->while using their product, your fuel gels in cold weather. >--> >-->And remember, folks, tranny fluid is only for drinkin' and tranny's. >-->Dan >-->kc7nol-at-juno.com >-->On Mon, 30 Aug 1999 09:23:30 -0400 Robbie Honerkamp >--> writes: >-->>I've got an '82 300CD that has recently developed a slight knock in >-->>the >-->>engine when I accelerate. At first I thought that it might be a rod >-->>or something else bad. My mechanic says that it's a bad fuel injector. >-->>I've never heard of a bad injector causing a knock before. He >-->>suggested >-->>adding some transmission fluid to the diesel to quiet the knock until >-->>I could bring the car in for new injectors. Before I do this, I >-->>thought >-->>I'd check here, since I've never heard of any of this before.. >-->> >-->>Thanks, >-->>Robbie >-->> >-->> >--> >-->___________________________________________________________________ >-->Get the Internet just the way you want it. >-->Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! >-->Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com **** Snohomish, Washington USA don't leave life without jesus, please... http://wagoneers.com - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 10:17:02 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: oil cooler flush On Mon, 30 Aug 1999, Jon Filina wrote: >-->Did you have any leaks on Fritz when you got him? Mathilde has none, and yes, worse than now... had the valve cover gasket replaced... I suspect he's was using oil when I got him and only slowed the problem down with the AMSOIL. :) >-->I'd like to keep it that way. The only reason I haven't switched to >-->synthetic oil, aside from my "frugal" nature (cheapskate and worse, >-->according to my wife...), is the possibility of a leak starting due to the >-->thinner oil. The leak would start eventually, but I'd rather see it later >-->than sooner..... won't happen, that's a myth. In the very early days of synthetics, early 70's, that was an issue. The synlube folks fixed that years and years ago. If you have a leak, AMSOIL may actually help stop it, or point it out more clearly. :) When it's 30 below outside you'll become a believer in AMSOIL... :) >-->I heard a little tip concerning oil consumption from another list I'm on, >-->from a few individuals whose recommendations I fully trust. I haven't tried >-->it yet, but will shortly. They said that when they change the oil, they >-->refill so the dipstick reads half way between full and add. When it drops >-->to add, they fill it back to the halfway point. Their oil consumption has >-->dropped considerably. Where I am used to 800-1000 mi. per quart, they are >-->getting about 2000-2500! could be related to crankcase pressure... makes sense. >-->Incidently, John. I just installed Unix on my other partition.... This old >-->CP/M and DOS head is goin' nuts...and having fun. I've got to get my Zip >-->drive and the internet working then I'll see if I can live with it. So far, >-->I like it. good for you... I'm convinced that Linux will beat the snot out of microslop as soon as the install process is refined a bit more. RedHat 6.0 is a pretty painless install, but they can make it simpler and add more device drivers... it's coming along nicely. :) john >--> >-->Jon >-->'81 240D 232,000 mi. "Mathilde" Still drivin' 100 mi. a day and gettin' >-->33-34 mpg! >--> >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com **** Snohomish, Washington USA don't leave life without jesus, please... http://wagoneers.com - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 10:21:47 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: oil cooler flush the test you speak of was slammed by a large number of oil producers and AMSOIL. AMSOIL had at one point an entire page criticizing the poor test method and illogical conclusion they drew from the test. look around on AMSOIL's site... it may still be there.. :) Consumer Reports needs to learn how to use the scientific method of testing. john On Sun, 29 Aug 1999, Daniel A Jacobs wrote: >--> >-->On Sun, 29 Aug 1999 13:13:26 -0700 (PDT) john was >-->thinking about slippery subjects when he told us: >--> >-->>FWIW, I typically go about 5,000 to 7,000 miles with my AMSOIL 15w40 >-->>Marine >-->>Grade Synthetic Diesel oil, even though AMSOIL says it'll go 15,000 >-->>miles. >--> >-->Consumer Reports (sue me, I used their name, I'm a Consumers Union >-->member, kind of a Teamster of Truth in Advertising) did as test where >-->they ran numerous taxi cabs in New York city for 60K miles and used >-->almost the major brands of oil in dino and synthetic forms and found >-->there to be such an insignificant difference in wear protection that they >-->could not warrant paying the extra money for the synthetic. They >-->suggested simply getting your oil changed every 3K miles (they went 6K >-->miles for there testing between oil changes) and the difference should >-->never even be noticeable between real and laboratory oil. >-->Dan >-->kc7nol-at-juno.com >--> >-->___________________________________________________________________ >-->Get the Internet just the way you want it. >-->Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! >-->Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com **** Snohomish, Washington USA don't leave life without jesus, please... http://wagoneers.com - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 13:25:06 -0400 From: "S.D.Byers" Subject: Re: oil cooler flush Consumer reports has been slammed in a number of forums I frequent for their testing and evaluations of almost everything.... SDB On Mon, 30 Aug 1999, john wrote: | |the test you speak of was slammed by a large number of oil producers |and AMSOIL. AMSOIL had at one point an entire page criticizing the poor |test method and illogical conclusion they drew from the test. | |look around on AMSOIL's site... it may still be there.. :) | |Consumer Reports needs to learn how to use the scientific method of testing. | |john | |On Sun, 29 Aug 1999, Daniel A Jacobs wrote: | |>--> |>-->On Sun, 29 Aug 1999 13:13:26 -0700 (PDT) john was |>-->thinking about slippery subjects when he told us: |>--> |>-->>FWIW, I typically go about 5,000 to 7,000 miles with my AMSOIL 15w40 |>-->>Marine |>-->>Grade Synthetic Diesel oil, even though AMSOIL says it'll go 15,000 |>-->>miles. |>--> |>-->Consumer Reports (sue me, I used their name, I'm a Consumers Union |>-->member, kind of a Teamster of Truth in Advertising) did as test where |>-->they ran numerous taxi cabs in New York city for 60K miles and used |>-->almost the major brands of oil in dino and synthetic forms and found |>-->there to be such an insignificant difference in wear protection that they |>-->could not warrant paying the extra money for the synthetic. They |>-->suggested simply getting your oil changed every 3K miles (they went 6K |>-->miles for there testing between oil changes) and the difference should |>-->never even be noticeable between real and laboratory oil. |>-->Dan |>-->kc7nol-at-juno.com |>--> |>-->___________________________________________________________________ |>-->Get the Internet just the way you want it. |>-->Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! |>-->Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. |>--> | | ---- | |------------------------------------------------------------------------- | john-at-wagoneers.com **** Snohomish, Washington USA | don't leave life without jesus, please... | http://wagoneers.com |------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | | | | ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 14:34:19 -0400 From: "S.D.Byers" Subject: balancing drift Part number 617 589 00 63 00, flywheel balancing drift for OM617 engines. I just finally found somebody willing to sell me one of these to balance my new flywheel to my old. Most dealers insist it does not exist. 960 USD. This thing is a steel arbor on which 2 flywheels are mounted. Nothing special. Anybody ever seen one and can tell me it is gold plated? SDB ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #197 *********************************