From: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net (diesel-benz-digest) To: diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Subject: diesel-benz-digest V1 #467 Reply-To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Sender: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Errors-To: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Precedence: bulk diesel-benz-digest Friday, January 5 2001 Volume 01 : Number 467 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles John Meister Digest Coordinator Contents: Oil analysis oil analysis RE: Oil analysis RE: oil analysis Re: oil drains Re: Oil analysis RE: oil analysis RE: Oil Drains Re: oil drains My climate control is lit! (kind of long) RE: oil drains bob bounced this one... Re: oil drains RE: Oil Drains RE: oil drains been thinkin' more thinkin' (engine specs) insurance Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 10:08:42 -0700 From: John Bathory Subject: Oil analysis Alright who does the oil analysis, what can one expect to find out form one and what's the cost of it? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 11:17:22 -0600 From: "Italiano, Joseph J" Subject: oil analysis I've heard quite a bit lately on oil analysis. Where do you get it done, and how much does it cost? What are the advantages of doing it versus just sticking to the maintenance schedule? It seems like for most do-it-yourselfers, the money would be better spent on just changing the oil, and all the filters (oil, fuel, air) more often. I'm I missing something? Joe ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 12:30:58 -0500 From: "Steven B." Subject: RE: Oil analysis I use Blackstone Labs. They are quick and provide a detailed and easy to understand report. It lists the wear metals and other "stuff" normally found in oil used in your particular application and lists the levels found and where those levels fall within the range of "expected" levels. It is a great preventative maintenance tool as it can detect problems before they become apparent. Steve B. www.blackstone-labs.com (the address in case the hyperlink doesn't function) Alright who does the oil analysis, what can one expect to find out form one and what's the cost of it? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 13:02:28 -0500 From: "Steven B." Subject: RE: oil analysis Perhaps you're right for your circumstances. Oil Analysis is a must for anyone extending their drain intervals. Synthetic oil typically does not "wear out" when operated under normal conditions under normal change intervals. However it can become contaminated (i.e. leaking head gasket, fuel dilution, silicon from a dirty air filter, etc.). Oil analysis will detect these conditions as well as a bearing which may be "going out", but has not yet failed. I do not use oil analysis for every oil change. For those who follow the manufacturers recommended intervals, perhaps oil analysis is not for you. However once every 30-40 thousand miles would not hurt and might show a problem before it becomes serious. As for cost, it varies. $15 to $20 USD is typical I would say. Hope this helps. Steve B. I've heard quite a bit lately on oil analysis. Where do you get it done, and how much does it cost? What are the advantages of doing it versus just sticking to the maintenance schedule? It seems like for most do-it-yourselfers, the money would be better spent on just changing the oil, and all the filters (oil, fuel, air) more often. I'm I missing something? Joe ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 10:29:15 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: oil drains At 06:34 AM 1/4/01 -0600, Marshall & Kristin wrote: >I ran amsoil back in the mid 80's in a Surburban/g/350. I changed the oil >once a year and changed filters at 6 months. Some years I went 25,000 and >some year not. I sold the Surburan with 186,000mi on it. The compression >was checked before the individual would buy it and all cylinders checked >good. I am switiching my 350 SDL to amsoil, my Zetor Tractor, and my F-350 >power stroke also to amsoil. I plan on getting the same quality of service >from amsoil as before. >Marshall I've heard and read of a number of folks that have done this. Under the right conditions it works out great. I've got a sales video of a guy with a 600,000 mile truck that had never been rebuilt. They made him pay for a rebuild when he went to trade it in and found it within new specs! Pretty cool. If you drive your rig far enough to warm it up and change the filters as scheduled and don't have any mechanical problems, it's very possible... john... who someday will have a new car or engine to do this to... :) - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 10:36:24 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: Oil analysis At 10:08 AM 1/4/01 -0700, John Bathory wrote: >Alright who does the oil analysis, what can one expect to find out form one >and what's the cost of it? I get them from my distributor, not sure of current costs, they were $10 a piece. Any Injector shop will have a source, also the Dealer. and of course Amsoil sells an analysis service too... (independent lab I think... never used it...) john - ----------------------------------------------------- http://www.wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/ To order 1-800-956-5695 customer# 283461 Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 10:47:09 -0800 From: john Subject: RE: oil analysis The lab I've used is in Spokane. The kits used to be $10. I still have one but it's about 10 years old... ;} (of course it's a prepaid kit, it comes with a box, a bottle and a label, you apply postage and wait for the report. ) Oil Analysis Lab, Inc. PO Box 3928 East 1514 Sprague Spokane, WA 99202 Like Joe said it's not always cost effective to analyze the oil every time, unless you're running a fleet, over the road truck, taxi service or do a LOT of driving. When you have an older rig things happen that contaminate the oil, so for most of us it's easier to cut the suggested extended drain interval in half and still see some benefit of using the synthetic. (gas 25,000 miles would be about 12,500 or so, Diesel 15,000 would be around 7,500 miles). What you can do to make sure all things are ok is to do a couple samples as a baseline. You could do a fresh oil change, run it for 500 miles, take a sample. Then see what the report says... if it's good, then drive that oil for 10,000 miles or whatever is reasonable in your mind, and do another sample. The report tells no lies. :) If there is a problem you will even be given ideas on how to fix it. The shop in Spokane CALLED ME to tell me I had a bad injector on one of my Diesels!!!! They were right and I was amazed! :) Make sure you get a clean sample... just pretend you're in the army and you've been selected for a random drug test... ;) It helps to have a bypass filter setup with an oil sample fitting... otherwise you have to try to get a little out of the drain plug without losing a bunch... ;) (I suppose you could change the filter and get the drippings... hmm... interestings problem... is that a "good" sample??? ;) john At 01:02 PM 1/4/01 -0500, Steven B. wrote: >Perhaps you're right for your circumstances. Oil Analysis is a must for >anyone extending their drain intervals. Synthetic oil typically does not >"wear out" when operated under normal conditions under normal change >intervals. However it can become contaminated (i.e. leaking head gasket, >fuel dilution, silicon from a dirty air filter, etc.). Oil analysis will >detect these conditions as well as a bearing which may be "going out", but >has not yet failed. I do not use oil analysis for every oil change. For >those who follow the manufacturers recommended intervals, perhaps oil >analysis is not for you. However once every 30-40 thousand miles would not >hurt and might show a problem before it becomes serious. As for cost, it >varies. $15 to $20 USD is typical I would say. > >Hope this helps. > >Steve B. > >I've heard quite a bit lately on oil analysis. Where do you get it done, >and how much does it cost? What are the advantages of doing it versus just >sticking to the maintenance schedule? > >It seems like for most do-it-yourselfers, the money would be better spent on >just changing the oil, and all the filters (oil, fuel, air) more often. I'm >I missing something? > >Joe - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 18:39:16 -0500 (EST) From: Dan Jacobs Subject: RE: Oil Drains - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Just to add my experiences to what John has said.... I would like to thank John in particular for all his inputs. I read them all and believe that this list is a great resource. - ----------------------------------------------------------------- YAHOO! Give it up for John!! Everyone should give him a huge pat on the back for the work he does for this list and the resources he has and shares. Also, lets not forget about ourselves, selflessly giving what we know to others so they might find happiness. Let's just agree that we won't call this the "Church of the Diesel Benz" list, OK? Diesel Dan, your "Should I be facing Mecca when I crank this thing over? Would that help?" man in Vancouver, WArshington. P.S.: If you ever do meet John in person, don't pat him on the back too hard, my left arm is starting to get better, but I can't go back to work yet! What was that move you put on me, John? The Snohomish Super-twist with a full gainer and a half-hitch? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 18:49:31 -0500 (EST) From: Dan Jacobs Subject: Re: oil drains john... who someday will have a new car or engine to do this to... :) - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- DON'T EVER BUY A NEW CAR, JOHN!! WE WON'T BE ABLE TO RECOGNIZE YOU IN A NEW CAR!! DON'T DO IT!! It's bad!!! Repeat after me: Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 21:09:14 -0600 From: "Alec Cordova" Subject: My climate control is lit! (kind of long) Had to get a little creative, since I'm not much of a tool hound, but the climate control buttons and dial are finally lit in my 89 300CE. Got a pair of bulbs at the dealer for a couple of bucks. The challenge was in removing the old bulbs. They are deep within the recesses of the ACC thingy, only accessible behind two little squares of metallic tape, which cover a small, round hole in front of each bulb. The bulbs themselves just press in to their sockets. Like cheap Christmas lights, but a little more industrial. Little tube bulbs. So there's nothing to grab them by. I saw one list suggestion recently to use some small tubing. Neat. But I can't find any tubing around here. OK. I've got the dash taken apart. I'm gonna get these old ones out if I have to crush them, and pull them out by the filaments (if I had a decent pair of baby needle-nose pliers). Keep looking for "tools." Aha! If I smooth off the end of a plastic "zip" cable tie to give it more surface area, and I find the wife's SuperGlue for her fake fingernails, and I stick the end of the cable tie into the little hole and SuperGlue it to the side of the light bulb, and let it set up for a few minutes while pressed against the bulb by the weight of a ballpoint pen balanced on the unstuck end of the cable tie.... The darned bulbs pull right out when you mount a handle to them. ;-) Getting the replacements in wasn't too bad. I was just a little anxious about the payoff of this struggle. Receipts show that the previous owner of this car had the climate control pushbutton unit replaced a while back. Maybe he got a rebuilt one, and it's a solder problem, not simply bad bulbs. Let's see. Plug it in, stuff it in, screw it down, turn the headlights knob (I know, I know; but I often do crossword puzzles in pen, too), make or find some shade over this thing... Woohoo! Looked even better later in the day, once the sun went down. Looks a little strange. The thing hasn't been lit since I bought the car in February. Reminds me of when I found out that there was supposed to be a light in the ashtray of my 85 W123 300D. Two trips to the dealer later (they gave me the newer style of bulb first, which mounts significantly differently), I could finally see where to put my butt! ;-) This was after about five years in that car with no ashtray light. And I'm a smoker. (I know, I know ((again)). But I'm working on the weight first. Asking for trouble if you try to fix both at once.) Also finally got the little square rubber pads on the trunklid replaced, and the plastic piece surrounding the rear passenger window switch in the back. Both for the W124c. Now I just have to track down where the power steering fluid leak lives. I think it's the hose connected to the bottom of the pump. Oh well. I'm trained by this M103 motor to top up fluids regularly. (6 or 7 hundred miles per quart of oil) The old 617 turbodiesel, with around 200K miles and a leak at the vacuum pump mounting gasket, only goes down about a half a quart on the dipstick by the time your religiously 3,000 mile dino oil change comes around. Marks parking spots pretty well, though. I really hope that's just a diesel leak. ;-) Oh well. I'll stretch it out a little and wish everyone Happy Holidays. Alec "Benzaholic" Cordova Taylor, Texas 95 C280, 115K (new $38 front rotors from Rusty have arrived, waiting for wife's car to return to town with her) 89 300CE, 118K, Damn, I STILL look good in this car 85 300DT, ~200K, happily on extended loan to a friend, this motor absolutely refuses to disappoint ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 21:23:56 -0600 From: "Alec Cordova" Subject: RE: oil drains ROTFLMAO! But what's wrong with "Church of the Diesel Benz" List? Alec - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of Dan Jacobs Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 5:50 PM To: diesel-benz list Subject: Re: oil drains john... who someday will have a new car or engine to do this to... :) - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- DON'T EVER BUY A NEW CAR, JOHN!! WE WON'T BE ABLE TO RECOGNIZE YOU IN A NEW CAR!! DON'T DO IT!! It's bad!!! Repeat after me: Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" Recycling cars is good for the planet I live near Seattle, I must act "green" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 21:52:24 -0800 From: john Subject: bob bounced this one... From: bob X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.06 [en] (Win95; I) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Subject: engine kaput Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit The mechanics tell me my 240D has a terminal case of low compression. Blow-by was pretty severe and a compression check showed the disease had spread to 3 of 4 cylinders. So I will poll the group about a course of action. Total rebuild, re-ring & lap the valves (a.k.a. the poor man's-overhaul), buy a rebuilt long block, find a running donor, what do you think? I'd rather sink a couple of grand into this than end up spending the money on some used econo box. Thanks for the advice. Bob - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 21:58:58 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: oil drains the only thing "green" about my vehicles is the mold growing on them. :) john At 06:49 PM 1/4/01 -0500, Dan Jacobs wrote: >john... who someday will have a new car or engine to do this to... :) >------------------------------------------------------ >http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ >Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... >jesus, don't leave life without him, please! >------------------------------------------------------- > >DON'T EVER BUY A NEW CAR, JOHN!! WE WON'T BE ABLE TO RECOGNIZE YOU IN A NEW >CAR!! DON'T DO IT!! It's bad!!! > >Repeat after me: > >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 22:00:23 -0800 From: john Subject: RE: Oil Drains rofl... you're outta control dude... about the only way I could hurt you is if I drove into you with my J10. :) (the 300SD wouldn't do any damage...) thanx for the kind words though... john At 06:39 PM 1/4/01 -0500, Dan Jacobs wrote: >----------------------------------------------------------------- >Just to add my experiences to what John has said.... > >I would like to thank John in particular for all his inputs. I >read them all and believe that this list is a great resource. > >----------------------------------------------------------------- > >YAHOO! Give it up for John!! Everyone should give him a huge pat on the >back for the work he does for this list and the resources he has and shares. > >Also, lets not forget about ourselves, selflessly giving what we know to >others so they might find happiness. > >Let's just agree that we won't call this the "Church of the Diesel Benz" >list, OK? > >Diesel Dan, your "Should I be facing Mecca when I crank this thing over? >Would that help?" man in Vancouver, WArshington. > >P.S.: If you ever do meet John in person, don't pat him on the back too >hard, my left arm is starting to get better, but I can't go back to work >yet! What was that move you put on me, John? The Snohomish Super-twist >with a full gainer and a half-hitch? - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 21:53:26 -0800 From: john Subject: RE: oil drains I think Dan has spent a wee bit too much time in the cockpit lately... :) john At 09:23 PM 1/4/01 -0600, Alec Cordova wrote: >ROTFLMAO! > >But what's wrong with "Church of the Diesel Benz" List? > >Alec > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On >Behalf Of Dan Jacobs >Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 5:50 PM >To: diesel-benz list >Subject: Re: oil drains > >john... who someday will have a new car or engine to do this to... :) >------------------------------------------------------ >http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ >Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... >jesus, don't leave life without him, please! >------------------------------------------------------- > >DON'T EVER BUY A NEW CAR, JOHN!! WE WON'T BE ABLE TO RECOGNIZE YOU IN A NEW >CAR!! DON'T DO IT!! It's bad!!! > >Repeat after me: > >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" >Recycling cars is good for the planet >I live near Seattle, I must act "green" - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 22:42:11 -0800 From: john Subject: been thinkin' been thinkin', I know, I know, my boss, my wife, my friends, they all discourage it, but hey... a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do... anywho. superdawg. engine. transmission. transfer case. Diesel? thinkin' about a 3.0L Mercedes Turbo Diesel as I drove back from Seattle tonight in the 300SD... With over 42 gallons of fuel, even at 20 mpg I'd go a long, long way. Considering my J10 has taller gears and only weighs about 300 lbs or so more than the 300SD I might even see mileage up in the 26 to 28 mpg range... that would give me a range of about 1176 miles! Ok, here comes the questions. 1) how in the world do I connect a Mercedes turbo Diesel to ANY transmission that will bolt up to my transfer case or ANY xfr case???? a) use my T-5? then I'd have to find a flywheel for the 3.0L TD. (doesn't solve the problem with my left leg/lower back... :( b) use the MBz 4speed automatic? How do I mate THAT to ANY xfr case? divorced case? which ones would work to replace an NP208??? c) use an Aisin Warner 4speed auto? Where do I find an adapter to mate engine/trans??? might not be that hard... but will the torque converter from the Aisin Warner mate to the Benz flex plate? Oh, drat, how would one solve the computer problems??? A manual box, but that could risk burning it up by accident... :( Ideas, suggestions? This is just thinkin' now... :) Other thoughts include an '89 Ford 302 with Fuel injection, complete engine/ trans, etc. $1,500... Question is how hard to convert a Ford AT to work with a transfer case? advance adapter tail shaft for more than we care to think? divorced case? (need to learn more about these mythical beasts... ;) Still thinking about whit's old 5.2L V8... haven't had time to check on a rebuild... would still need to figure out which tranny to use... Rebuilding anything doesn't excite me right now... however, ...then there is always the harebrained idea of having my 4.2L rebuilt and putting a 4.0L head on it, use the 4.0L distr and so on... and an Aisin Warner. The 1983 4.2L was the same compression ratio, 9.2:1 as the 4.0L, same basic block from what I can gather from the factory manual that has the 4.0/4.2 in the same book! :) (more engine specs under separate email... ) So, here I sit, thinkin'... how do I want to go about this? :) No hurry, always a good position to be in when doing something like this. :) Actually had a call on the 300SD this morning. The ad started in the Seattle papers today... Mixed emotions on selling it... I need the money to extend my garage and do the engine swap... but it sure is a nice car... :( But, when it comes down to it. I'd rather have my J10 than a Mercedes... You know one things I dislike most about the Mercedes is that climate control setup... what a Rube Goldberg setup that is. I drove the little wagoneer into town at lunch, we adjusted the heater where we wanted it and never touched it again... went to Seattle in the Benz and I was constantly having to fiddle with the settings to get it comfortable... almost took out a section of guardrail on 520... ;) HEY, that would have solved TWO out of three of my problems. :) It would have provided an engine for SuperDawg and would have paid off the Benz... the only problem it wouldn't solve is the insurance issue... I'm FINALLY out of the woods from hitting that tree over three years ago! sorry for going so long... but I've been thinkin'. ;) john - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 23:10:43 -0800 From: john Subject: more thinkin' (engine specs) figured this info deserved it's own page. :) year - engine - HP -at- rpm - torque -at- rpm - ---------------------------------------------------- 83 - J10 4.2L - 115 hp -at- 3,200 - 210 ft lbs -at- 1,800 <-- current 83 - 300SD 3.0L - 125 hp -at- 4,350 - 170 ft lbs -at- 2,400 <-- the benz 83 - J10 360V8 - 129 hp -at- 3,700 - 245 ft lbs -at- 1,600 <-- Old Blue 88 - XJ 4.0L - 177 hp -at- 4,500 - 224 ft lbs -at- 2,500 <-- little wag 91 - XJ 4.0L - 190 hp -at- 4,750 - 225 ft lbs -at- 4,000 <-- first choice ??? 97 - ZJ 5.2L - 220 hp -at- 4,400 - 300 ft lbs -at- 3,200 <-- whit's motor 97 - ZJ 4.0L - 185 hp -at- 4,600 - 220 ft lbs -at- 2,400 78 - SJ 401V8 - 215 hp -at- 4,400 - 320 ft lbs -at- 2,800 88 - GM 6.2L Dsl- 130 hp -at- 3,600 - 240 ft lbs -at- 2,000 88 - GM 350V8-FI- 210 hp -at- 4,000 - 300 ft lbs -at- 2,800 89 - Ford 302-FI- 185 hp -at- 3,400 - 270 ft lbs -at- 2,400 83 - 240D 2.4L - 72 hp -at- 4,400 - 97 ft lbs -at- 2,400 :) other possibilities... (not) 92 - lawnmower - 5 hp -at- 2,500 - 3 ft lbs -at- 2,500 ;) 98 - Dan's truck- 850 hp -at- 1,500 - 1500 ft lbs -at- 1,000 or somethin' like that... The other variable is fuel economy, and then there is longevity, durability, cost to acquire and the small problem of making it fit in the hole. :) This is the fun part... thinking of the possibilities... I think the Mercedes Turbo Diesel would be pretty cool... transmission connection is the biggest issue... :( any ideas? john - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 23:24:54 -0800 From: john Subject: insurance >Subject: xj: Insuring Lifted Vehicles >When I called yesterday to have my "new" '84 XJ added to my car insurance >policy (I'm with Nationwide), I got lectured by the lady when I told her I >might put a lift on it at some point. She said that Nationwide will NOT >insure any vehicle that has been lifted due to safety reasons, blah, blah, >blah. I didn't bother arguing with her and just said, "okay, so it won't >get a lift." Of course, I was lying through my teeth. >'Course, she also told me that they count moving violations for FIVE YEARS, >as opposed to the three that they appear on your license. Talk about a load >of crap. And I have two dropping off by the time my policy expires in May. >What it really means is that in five months when this policy is up for >renewal, I'll be looking for a new company. Anybody have any >recommendations on more accomodating ones? I've already been with >Progressive and didn't like them (they will surcharge you for comp claims). >Rob without teenagers - National Merit with teenagers but no trees - Pemco with teenagers, with trees - Hartford (through Washington Mutual bank) Pemco was very good, but they upped my rates about $400 a year when I totalled the little wagoneer. Hartford saved me some over Pemco, and still beats Liberty Mutual, even after the three years. Another company that used to be good was Prefered Risk, haven't heard about them in years though. I'll be doing a study on this as my policy renews in February. The Alumni Association from the University of Maryland sent me some insurance stuff... need to call and check rates... Oh, Pemco actually paid me MORE money on the total of my XJ because of the Old Man Emu lift kit!!! None of the companies I mentioned asked or cared about lifts, bigger tires, etc. EXCEPT to add a surcharge in case of a total loss. Pemco listed my Aussie Bull Bar and the IPF lights after I rebuilt and reinsured, I think the surcharge was quite minimal, but it did add coverage to some very expensive accessories. If you're ticket free, have a vehicle that's less than 10 years old and over 25 National Merit could save you a bunch of bucks. Pemco is the next good deal... but Liberty Mutual seems to be competing... Hartford has been ok, and I'm still going to check with Geico... john - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #467 *********************************