From: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net (diesel-benz-digest) To: diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Subject: diesel-benz-digest V1 #472 Reply-To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Sender: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Errors-To: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Precedence: bulk diesel-benz-digest Tuesday, January 9 2001 Volume 01 : Number 472 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles John Meister Digest Coordinator Contents: Diesel oil question for the oil experts out there Cruise control question and intro Re: Diesel oil question for the oil experts out there Re: Cruise control question and intro Rebuilt transmissions Intros Re: 300D (and 240D!) Instrument Panel Lighting Re: Diesel oil question for the oil experts out there Re: 300D (and 240D!) Instrument Panel Lighting Intros Re: a Gwagen! No posi traction a few questions Re: Intros Re: a Gwagen! fuel costs Intros RE: Intros Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 20:58:57 -0800 (PST) From: Glenn Hansel Subject: Diesel oil question for the oil experts out there I just bought a 1981 VW Jetta diesel. I have about 5 cases of 5W30 motor oil that is not C (diesel) rated. I would like to use this oil in the Jetta unless someone can give me a good reason not to. I figure that since I drive mostly highway miles (67 miles every day to/from work) and change my oil every 3,000 miles, I should be able to use this oil. I figure that by changing it every 3k, the oil will not break down and will not have much of a chance to accumulate the "diesel soot." Let me know your thoughts. Also, can I use this oil in the diesel in the summer? I had a very hard time accepting the fact that our gas engine car recommends using only 5W30 all year long. I used to put straight 30 weight or 20W50 in my cars during the summers. From what I've heard, the modern 5W30 oils are supposed to provide protection even in the summer. Any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance for any help. Glenn Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 21:02:59 -0800 (PST) From: Glenn Hansel Subject: Cruise control question and intro My dad has a 79 240D automatic (these cars are well known for its neck snapping acceleration). The cruise control only works very sporadically and I was wondering what some of you have done as a fix. He was also wondering if any of you have put an aftermarket electronic cruise control on your Mercedes diesels and how much it cost/how hard was it to do the job? Thanks I have been a diesel fan since I got my first used 79 Rabbit diesel in 1984. It was a great car. I have also owned an 81 300SD Mercedes that ran great. I am not a fan of the Mercedes vacuum system, however. Currently I drive a 1981 VW Jetta diesel that gets good fuel mileage for my 67 mile daily roundtrip from Patagonia to Nogales (Arizona). Glenn Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 21:03:36 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: Diesel oil question for the oil experts out there if it's not Diesel rated (C - compression) do NOT use it. IT will not have sufficient shear strength, the correct TBN or the additive package and Viscosity index Improvers could even damage your rings as they may break down and cause cylinder scoring. You'd be better off to pour it in the tank in the summer and use it as Diesel fuel. :) It'll work, nicely. ;) The VW Diesels are pretty durable, so in reality you might get away with it... but why take an unnecessary risk. They have the ratings for a reason... :) john At 08:58 PM 1/8/01 -0800, Glenn Hansel wrote: >I just bought a 1981 VW Jetta diesel. I have about 5 cases of 5W30 motor >oil that is not C (diesel) rated. I would like to use this oil in the >Jetta unless someone can give me a good reason not to. I figure that >since I drive mostly highway miles (67 miles every day to/from work) and >change my oil every 3,000 miles, I should be able to use this oil. I >figure that by changing it every 3k, the oil will not break down and will >not have much of a chance to accumulate the "diesel soot." Let me know >your thoughts. > Also, can I use this oil in the diesel in the summer? I had a >very hard time accepting the fact that our gas engine car recommends using >only 5W30 all year long. I used to put straight 30 weight or 20W50 in my >cars during the summers. From what I've heard, the modern 5W30 oils are >supposed to provide protection even in the summer. Any thoughts on this? >Thanks in advance for any help. Glenn >Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 21:06:50 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: Cruise control question and intro take the amplifier (it's under the dash) apart and reflow all the solder joints.... or contact Rusty Cullen and buy a rebuilt one... guess they're running under two bills... much less hopefully. :) john At 09:02 PM 1/8/01 -0800, Glenn Hansel wrote: >My dad has a 79 240D automatic (these cars are well known for its >neck snapping acceleration). The cruise control only works very >sporadically and I was wondering what some of you have done as a fix. He >was also wondering if any of you have put an aftermarket electronic cruise >control on your Mercedes diesels and how much it cost/how hard was it to >do the job? Thanks > > > I have been a diesel fan since I got my first used 79 Rabbit diesel in >1984. It was a great car. I have also owned an 81 300SD Mercedes that ran >great. I am not a fan of the Mercedes vacuum system, however. >Currently I drive a 1981 VW Jetta diesel that gets good fuel mileage for >my 67 mile daily roundtrip from Patagonia to Nogales (Arizona). Glenn >Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 00:55:20 EST From: Swbkrs-at-aol.com Subject: Rebuilt transmissions JoErnest: The e mail address for sun valley mercedes dismantlers is www.mercedesdismantlers.com I was impressed with their work and prices and so far the tranny is performing well. Wayne Cobb ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 01:10:36 EST From: JoErnest-at-aol.com Subject: Intros I'm a Civil/Environmental engineer in the SF Bay area of CA. The first car I have memories of is my Dad's 190D. While in college my brother bought a Rabbit diesel and I bought a Dasher Diesel wagon from the same dealer on the same day. A few short days later we were both doing the first of many head gasket dances on both cars. My Dasher was replaced by a Peugeot 504 D wagon, and my brother got a newer Rabbit, so his old one went to our youngest brother where it became the first of his 3 Rabbit diesels. The Peugeot was eventually replaced by an MB 240 D as my wife's commute car - she loved it but hated its lack of pace, so I gave it to my Dad, who killed it last month. I picked up a Vanagon Diesel Westfalia and then a 1967 Land Rover with a Rover Marine Diesel up front. I got my wife a Volvo 765 TD, which she enjoyed until compression went from low to zero. Now she refused to ever have anything to do with another diesel, that is, until I brought home an 83 300 CD Turbo for her. My current fleet consists of: 83 MB 300 CD Turbo 89 Vanagon Westfalia Syncro 67 Land Rover 109 Diesel Carawagon 89 Range Rover (wish it had a 300 D turbo motor) 82 Vanagon Westfalia Diesel, 1.6 TD being installed, then maybe a 1.9 TD 82 MB 240D 4spd with dead motor (from my Dad, in TX) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 03:04:18 -1100 From: Jon Filina Subject: Re: 300D (and 240D!) Instrument Panel Lighting John Heflin squinted and wrote: > > That reminds me.... I still have no dash lights. > Is there two points on the back of the rheostat(or anywhere) that I can jump > to just have the dash lights on full (which is what they normally were at) > > its in a 1978 240D, which after seeing a, I think, a 85 300D panel, i > realized they are different. Provided the fuses are ok, have you tried twisting the adjustment knob back and forth? If it's dark when you try this, you should see the dash lights flicker as you spin the knob. If not, the rheostat is probably bad. The part is pretty cheap, even from the dealer. My 240D rheostat is a bit flakey. Many times, after I reset the trip meter, the dash lights don't come on. After a few seconds of twisting back and forth I get them back. As to the brightness of the display.... A "bright dim" is all I have been able to get from mine. The bulbs are 2 watt, I believe. Do not replace them with higher wattage bulbs as you will have some melted plastic. I did hear about a guy that added a bulb or two with success. I have learned to live with the dim dash lights. The only part of the display I have a hard time reading is the trip meter. The rest of the dash is easy to see at 2 AM... Jon '81 240D 267,500 mi. "Mathilde" ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 04:06:00 -0500 (EST) From: Dan Jacobs Subject: Re: Diesel oil question for the oil experts out there I'd ask my self this question: How much are those five cases gonna cost if I store them for a while or sell them to someone that can use them versus what I paid for this car? You bought a used diesel, gave no other information about the engine (i.e., oil analysis results, compression testing, recently rebuilt, etc.) that could help us figure out if you could get away with it. If you owned diesels B4, one thing you will remember (or notice if your a newbie) is that right after you change the oil, the fresh oil in the crankcase is BLACK!! Thats because you really can't get all the soot outta there. Also, there are other problems that C rated oil is designed to handle (contaminants that gasoline rated oil can't deal with that will harm your motor over time.) If you live near a Costco and you want to have a case of oil laying around to use, go in there and buy a case of Chevron Delo oil. You should have a pretty good starter and a good battery if you live in a very cold area for this stuff, the viscosity is 15-40. This is the stuff I use in my BIG truck (or Valvoline Blue, Shell Rotella, the kind of oil you buy at truck stops in 1 gallon jugs.) Keep it topped off and change it often, and you will have a happy engine! Naturally, this is my opinion, but it has worked very well for me, it might work very well for you, too. Has anyone else switched to "BIG rig" oil in this group? Do you notice anything different? Diesel Dan, your "Don't use that wimpy gas engine oil in your beloved diesel engine!!" man in Vancouver, WA - ------Original Message------ From: john To: Glenn Hansel Sent: January 9, 2001 5:03:36 AM GMT Subject: Re: Diesel oil question for the oil experts out there if it's not Diesel rated (C - compression) do NOT use it. IT will not have sufficient shear strength, the correct TBN or the additive package and Viscosity index Improvers could even damage your rings as they may break down and cause cylinder scoring. You'd be better off to pour it in the tank in the summer and use it as Diesel fuel. :) It'll work, nicely. ;) The VW Diesels are pretty durable, so in reality you might get away with it... but why take an unnecessary risk. They have the ratings for a reason... :) john At 08:58 PM 1/8/01 -0800, Glenn Hansel wrote: >I just bought a 1981 VW Jetta diesel. I have about 5 cases of 5W30 motor >oil that is not C (diesel) rated. I would like to use this oil in the >Jetta unless someone can give me a good reason not to. I figure that >since I drive mostly highway miles (67 miles every day to/from work) and >change my oil every 3,000 miles, I should be able to use this oil. I >figure that by changing it every 3k, the oil will not break down and will >not have much of a chance to accumulate the "diesel soot." Let me know >your thoughts. > Also, can I use this oil in the diesel in the summer? I had a >very hard time accepting the fact that our gas engine car recommends using >only 5W30 all year long. I used to put straight 30 weight or 20W50 in my >cars during the summers. From what I've heard, the modern 5W30 oils are >supposed to provide protection even in the summer. Any thoughts on this? >Thanks in advance for any help. Glenn >Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 06:02:06 -0500 From: Jeffrey Creager Subject: Re: 300D (and 240D!) Instrument Panel Lighting The rheostat on my '74 240D was the source of my no-instrument-lights problem. On a '74, you can disassemble the rheostat. On mine, the little brass slider which rotates around a coiled up resistance wire had corroded. A little sand paper work made it functional, although not perfect. (FWIW, one of the nice things about the car is how easily the instrument pod can be removed from the dash. It's held in by a rubber strip, and you essentially just pull it out a few inches--no screws, unplug the wiring harness, disconnect the oil pressure feed line with a 10mm wrench, untwist the speedometer cable...and you're done. A person who's done it before could probably do it in a minute. All procedures should be so easy.) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 08:12:56 EST From: WSAMKELLY-at-aol.com Subject: Intros I'm a surgical equipment sales rep covering Georgia and South Carolina. I underwent my diesel indoctrination in 1982, when I began working for a medical diagnostic lab. We used new Rabbit diesels as company cars, traveling the state retreiving blood samples from docs' offices. I drove mine 400 miles a day for two years straight, and learned to love 'em...had a new diesel Rabbit/ Golf/ Jetta ( except for the '87 EuroJetta 16V test car, which is another story ) every 1.5 years or so through 1991. Since then I've gone through an Audi 5000 NA diesel, a 1983 Audi 5000 TD, a 1982 K5 Blazer 6.2 ( should've kept it ), and a 1981 Buick Diesel Estate Barge ( 100,000 trouble free miles ! ) I'm currently driving a 1991 Jetta Ecodiesel ( 145K ) , and considering an MB 300SDL, SD, or one of the MB diesel wagons. I'm currently gathering info to make a purchase in the next year or so. I'd like to talk my wife out of her Volvo 745T and into a 300SDL, and get a newer Jetta TD for me. Or maybe a Benz 300ETDwagon ( I believe there is such an animal - the smaller one? ) for me, and the Dreaded Minivan for her....fortunately, the combinations are many, probably will depend on service records, ect.... Lurking and learning - Bill Kelly 1991 Jetta Eco 1989 Volvo 745T ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:23:51 -0500 From: "S.D.Byers" Subject: Re: a Gwagen! John et al, Am currently running around in Germany. I have learnt the location of the guy who disposes of all the Grenzschutz G-wagons. I will not have time this trip but I may investigate further through a proxy at some stage. The prices are around 4k US I think. Diesel or Petrol. Now import to the US is tricky but I also know a guy who can do that, for a price. SDB On Sat, 6 Jan 2001, john wrote: |bill, I'm sending this to my diesel-benz list. we've discussed |the gwagen before, in fact on the diesel-benz page on my server I |may have a link to them... | |how much are they asking? I'd love to get one and drop a Diesel |into it... of course you're on the other side of the continent from |me... but I'm curious what they're asking, and if you pass and it's |driveable, I may jump on it. :) | |john | | |>Date: Sat, 06 Jan 2001 00:40:58 -0400 |>From: samfans |>Subject: xj: OT - sorry - need Mercedes G wagen help !!! |>Guys and Gals, |>Sorry for the off-topic post, but I didn't know where else to turn. |>I need some help with a potentiallty new to me 1982 Mercedes |>Gelaendewagen (Gwagen) and I figured someone might be able to help, |>point me to someone who can, or even forward this to other folks / lists |>in hopes someon can reply to me and help. |>Situation: A local dealer has come into posession of a 1982 Mercedes |>Gwagen, and the silly buggers want a very reasonable price for it - |>which is killing me. thing is - they are as rare as hens teeth here - |>no one knows anything or can get any parts. So I'm wondering if anyone |>can help with insight, advice, links, help, parts sources, info sources |>etc. |>Details are: |>1982 G Wagen |>4 Cyl gas engine |>4 speed manual |>fr and rr hydraulic locking diffs |>140 000 km |>Specific questions I have so far are: |>What's it worth? |>Any idea of mielage? |>Where on earth does one get parts / a manual?, are they expensive? |>What are the known problems, areas to watch when buying a used Gwagen? |>Are any of these things I noticed common problems with easy fixes or |>what: |>1) At idle the oil pressure light comes on, but goes away |>immediately the throttle is blipped - could it be gauge / sender or is |>it a really bad sighn? |>2) The brakes work ok for a 2800kg truck - but you really have to get |>into them (push pedal hard and far) - is this a weakness, or sign of new |>brakes needed or worse (vaccum booter problem?) |>3) What are the 4 Transfer case positions labeled S, SA, SA, and GA. |>I'm guessing they are 2wd, 4wd hi range full time, 4wd high range part |>time (centre diff locked), and 4wd lo range centre diff locked |>4) What's the proper shifting procedure for the modes - so I can |>properly test them all? |>5) There is a vibration, that feels like driveshaft, at about 110km.h |>- - is this common? |>It's in unbelievable condition , built like a tank, 4 wheel coils with |>radius arms, HUGE box frame, and steering linkage all BEHIND the front |>axle. |>Any help is VERY much appreciated. |>Thanks |>Bill |>------------------------------ | |------------------------------------------------------ | http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ | Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... | jesus, don't leave life without him, please! |------------------------------------------------------- | ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 09:52:45 -0700 From: John Bathory Subject: No posi traction I was always wondering if my 81 300TD had a limited slip differential or not. It DOESN'T as I found put at 6 this morning on an isolated road. I managed to get stuck and was just about to put on the chains when a kind soul happened by and managed to push me out. Anybody know if any of the 123 series came with a limited slip differential that would be a nice feature. 87 jetta TD 350 k miles 81 300 TD 180 k miles 97 Passat 30 k miles ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 09:22:37 -0800 From: chris-at-califormula.com Subject: a few questions John, The TDI Jetta is probably the best car in the world right now. I do not own one because we cannot have them here. A 300D or 300SD are probably the next choice. 1981-1991 300SD is perfect. Around here range from 2 to 7 thousand dollars depending on condition. Parts are all available. Mercedes keeps 30 years worth of parts available. 1970 parts are now being moved to the historical warehouse and are still available but no more are being made so when they are gone "Go Fish" ... I prefer the 1981-1984 300D or 1980-1984 240D 4 speed. The 240D will last for 40 or 50 years and never fail you if you change fluids. I have seen hundreds of these cars without a tranny or rear end problem. Diesels wear out eventually. Most problems in a neglected car start around 250k miles. A well taken car of 240 or 300D will go to 500k no problem. I have owned 19 MBs in my life. All of them old used ones 'cause I'm not a yuppie, I'm a pap or "Poor ass Person" I get by on $650 a month and surprise everyone around me. If you want a great car 1981-1984 300D is the choice for power windows and automatic tranny. I know they were made until 1985 but the 1985 has some differences that limit it. Like the 1967 VW Bug. Best Beetle ever, but parts are 1967 only. Same with the 1985 300D. 1981 is great because the foam seats last forever and no Turbo. 1982-1985 have the Turbo here they do anyway. I won't swear to this but from my sightings somewhere early 1980 and older cars have horsehair seats like VW did until 1986. My 86 Jetta Diesel had crappy seats. I had a 1977 240 with crappy seats. My 1981 has great seats in it. 1975-1985 123 Chassis cars are basically all the same. I like Mercedes' 10 year car bodies. I had a 1981 300SD and found a wrecked 1991 and changed all the cosmetic differences including the rear third brakelight and nobody knew its age...:) I just got my lasest 300D a 1981 for $2400. It could use paint, but interior is perfect and 5k ago a new engine was installed. I have the $4700 in reciepts. I am happy. In the paper here there are several 82-85 cars from 1800 to 5000. Find a good shop and ask questions we have about 40 benz fixers here in San Diego. Take your choice of car and have a compression and leak down test done. check the locks, windows, and climate control out and if all is okay get it...:) Chris in Sandy Eggo... PS if anyone wants to email me a copy of the vacuum and wiring diagram from the CD I would be grateful. also if you have any idea where to get European headlights let me know... >From: "John D. Shelton" >Subject: a few questions >I'm new to the list and have a few questions. I don't own a diesel Mercedes >yet but I do own a '99 Jetta TDI which I love. It's relatively fast and gets >49 mpg on the highway and has the perfect combination of sporty smooth ride. >I'll drive it till the wheels fall off, then glue them on and drive it some >more. I've become a huge fan of diesels and now want to get a Mercedes >diesel, specifically, a 300D. My budget is fairly limited, only $5K, so I'll >be limited to an early 80s model. Here are my questions: >- -Are there any years or certain model numbers I need to be wary of? >- -Can I expect to get a good runner for only $5K? >- -I'll be moving to Brunswick, Maine in a couple of years (I'm in the Navy so >will be able to put a LOT of miles on my Mercedes if I get one). Does anyone >on this list live up north and if so what kind of problems do you encounter? >Keep in mind I probably won't have a garage. >- -I ride an old BMW motorcycle. BMW is fantastic about keeping old parts in >stock. Is Mercedes the same way? Is parts availability a problem for anyone? >What about finding a shop to work on it? - - -Any other words of advice would be greatly appreciated. John Shelton ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 11:48:32 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: Intros On Tue, 9 Jan 2001 WSAMKELLY-at-aol.com wrote: >-->I'm a surgical equipment sales rep covering Georgia and South Carolina. I I met my wife in Columbia, SC (Ft. Jackson). We lived in Hepzibah outside Ft. Gordon near Augusta... :) Lived down there on and off from 1974 through 1982. john ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com **** http://wagoneers.com don't leave life without Jesus, please... Snohomish, Washington USA - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 11:51:19 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: a Gwagen! we can always try to bring them in through Canada... :) Where are you in Germany? I'm envious. I used to live in Frankfurt, Messel and Weiterstadt, both near Darmstadt... john On Tue, 9 Jan 2001, S.D.Byers wrote: >--> >--> >-->John et al, >--> Am currently running around in Germany. I have learnt the >-->location of the guy who disposes of all the Grenzschutz G-wagons. I will >-->not have time this trip but I may investigate further through a proxy at >-->some stage. The prices are around 4k US I think. >--> >-->Diesel or Petrol. ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com **** http://wagoneers.com don't leave life without Jesus, please... Snohomish, Washington USA - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 12:21:02 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: fuel costs Just got our propane bill!!! $1.83/gallon, delivered at home!!!! it's always been very inexpensive... jumped way up in price!!! reg unleaded 1.47 - 1.55 Diesel 1.83 - 1.88 john ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com **** http://wagoneers.com don't leave life without Jesus, please... Snohomish, Washington USA - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 14:26:27 -0700 From: scott_haaland-at-agilent.com Subject: Intros I'm an IT Engineer (Software) at Agilent Technologies (a recent split-off from HP). I work in Roseville, which is near Sacramento, CA. I bought my first Diesel about 2 years ago, an MB 1980 300SD from my brother-in-law, who was leaving the country and asked me to try to sell it for him. He wanted to get at least $1500 for it, and I found no takers, so I bought it rather than deal with the hassel. I sold my '92 Mustang GT convertable for $5K, and figured I netted $3.5K and got a much more practical car. I call it the silver hornet, out of respect for Peter Sellers (any Pink Panther fans out there?). The paint is quite oxidized, and it has many problems like : Needs new engine mounts, two windows don't roll down, three don't roll up ;), it spews gray smoke at every acceleration, the fuel tank leaks on sharp left turns, the tach light is out, the climate control is sporadic at best, the AC needs charging, I think the alternator is having problems so I charge the battery every other day, it needs an oil change, etc.... I think it was very neglected by it's previous owners (and current one :( ), who put 199K miles on it. I've got 210K now. I drive it to and from work, about 15 miles each way, and use it for hauling stuff from home depot since the paint is already shot. I get about 18-22 mpg and can go 0-60 mph in about 10-11 seconds. I've only done what is necessary to keep it running, although I would love to fix many of these problems (I just never seem to get the time or energy). I just put some new tires on it, the Yokohama Avid T-4, which was about the cheapest I could find with ~some~ performance characteristics -- I never go over 85mph, and even though I try to drive it like a sports car, let's face it, it isn't one. I got it aligned, but it's still pulling right - have to take it back in. I have an 83 VW Vanagon which isn't running right now. Any day now, my new Jetta 2.0L conversion kit from TiiCo is going to arrive, so that'll be my project for January/Feb...it's supposed to fit right into the Vanagon, and it gets much better mileage with more power than the waterboxer engine. At that point, I'll switch off driving the Silver Hornet and the VW. I like to have an extra car, since they are all so old (my wife has an 87 acura legend with 150K miles). I've been enjoying all the helpful hints and discussions on the list. Thanks John for all your work and input! - - Scott 1980 MB 300SD - W116 1983 VW Vanagon - needs engine 1987 Acura Legend ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 10:32:05 +1300 From: Euan Kennedy Subject: RE: Intros Hi there from the Antipodes. I'm Euan. Been a subscriber to this listserver for several years, and now have a valued print-out folder of technical info for future use. Thanks you guys. My vehicle is a 1985 W123 300TD 5-speed manual with 152K (miles) on the clock. Light metallic blue with dark blue cloth trim. This is my first diesel and first MB. Although leisurely in its acceleration (the car requires written applications before considering overtaking manoeuvres on the highway), it has been far more reliable and comfortable than my earlier Fiat 132 and Volvo 360 GLT. The only incapacitating failure so far has been a clutch master cylinder. The car was built in Holland, used in Europe and imported to New Zealand with its original English immigrant owner in 1987. I bought it from him in 1988, along with a mountain of spares (NZ, he was told, was the only place in the world where you'd get a computer delivered in a Model T Ford-pretty much good advice for NZ in the 60's and 70's). The price was, well... bowel-wrenchingly high by your North American standards, so I won't embarrass us all by revealing it. My only regret is that he did not tick the A/C and turbo options when he ordered the car from the factory, but I gather from postings here that these are engineering trouble-points in the model. My hope is that the car will last at least until the new hydrogen-powered vehicles are affordable here. So far, we're looking good to achieve that. Cheers Euan PS-Some of you might remember my postings about the failed vibration damper on my short drive shaft. We never did find a replacement but I have a smaller W124 damper fitted as an interim measure. It takes the worst of the vibrations out of the driveshaft. If any of you know where I can get a W123 damper in pristine condition (without having to buy the short driveshaft as well)... ___________________________________________________________ Euan S Kennedy 5 Banks Avenue Shirley Christchurch 8006 New Zealand Ph (home): 64 3 385 5714 E-mail: euan-at-chch.planet.org.nz ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #472 *********************************