From: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net (diesel-benz-digest) To: diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Subject: diesel-benz-digest V1 #650 Reply-To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Sender: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Errors-To: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Precedence: bulk diesel-benz-digest Thursday, September 20 2001 Volume 01 : Number 650 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: RE: Running Questions [300D] RE: Running Questions [300D] timing chain Rear Brakes Re: Rear Brakes RE: valve adj... Mechanic in San Diego? The Slug is Home Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 22:17:00 -0500 From: "Alec Cordova" Subject: RE: Running Questions [300D] I would put a valve adjustment on the short list. Supposed to be done every 15,000 miles. Fairly easy. Parts cost is a cheap valve cover gasket. They sell special bent wrenches, but I did my 85 turbo 300D with just a (friend's) decent collection of SnapOns and a cheap feeler gauge. Big altitude changes always present a challenge to a motor. I'm not sure what an older non-turbo uses to compensate for the thinner air. You might spend some quality time under the hood checking all vacuum lines for leaks and/or clogs. Pay particular attention to any tubes that look like they connect to anything near the fuel injection pump. That's what would have to be informed about air pressure changes. This stuff can get pricy if you pay someone else to do it, since it's kind of slow work. Good place to save money if you have the patience and persistence to do it yourself. I'm leaning towards the valve adjustment, though. They could cause the noise, the smoke, the loss of power, and the hard starting. And while you (or someone else) are in there, check the timing chain for stretch. Doesn't add much time if the valve cover is off anyway. Good luck, Alec Cordova Taylor, Texas 95 C280 89 300CE no current diesels :-( - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of JC Jones Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 9:33 PM To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Subject: Running Questions [300D] Sorry for the length of this post, I want you guys to have enough information to give good advice. Here's a question for all you Mercedes Diesel experts out there. The car is a 78 300D, I have had it almost 2 weeks. When I first got it, it did not really smoke at all once it warmed up (it smoked a little bit when it was still cold). Yesterday I took it up in the mountains, approximately 60 miles with 6% grades from 5000 feet to around 12000 feet, then back down to around 9000 feet. It ran pretty good on the way up there, but it seemed to have a little less power when I got where I was going (about 9000 feet altitude). I shut it off and it sat for about 7 hours, then when I went to start it, it was very difficult to start (it was still about 55 degrees out). I had to crank it for nearly 3 minutes to get it started, and the first 2 minutes it did not even fire at all, just cranked, then for about the last 1 minute it very slowly started to caugh a bit and finally started. On the way back I noticed that it had a slight clatter at certain RPM's (around idle, then again just at the top of the power curve). Still did not smoke at idle, but right at the top of the power curve in each gear it had a bit of clatter and belched out quite a bit of smoke. Now, today I have noticed that it's much more difficult to start, smokes a lot more when it's cold and has just the slightest trace of smoke when it's idling after it's warm (slight clatter at idle too). Also, it starts smoking a lot just before it reaches the top of the power curve in each gear (slight to moderate clatter at this RPM too), then as soon as the power curve flattens out it stops smoking and the clatter goes away. I don't think it's a major mechanical problem because during most of the RPM range it does not smoke and sounds normal, it's just at idle and just before the top of the power curve that is smokes and clatters. Thanks in advance for any advice or help. JC Jones http://www.wagoneer.net 1979 Jeep J-10 "Max" 1984 Grand Wagoneer "Eeyore" 1978 MB 300D "Fritz" 1986 Jeep XJ Cherokee "Junior" * * * * * =================== "They that can give up * * * * =================== essential liberty to * * * * * =================== obtain a little ============================= temporary safety ============================= deserve neither ============================= liberty nor safety." ============================= -Benjamin Franklin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 21:24:57 -0600 From: "JC Jones" Subject: RE: Running Questions [300D] Cool, Thanks Alec. The guy I got the car from loaned me a set of Mercedes valve adjustment wrenches and said they probably needed to be re-adjusted for winter. He just adjusted them in May though, so I thought part of the hard starting problem could be that but I did not realize it could cause everything else. I guess I'll do that very soon, I've never adjusted Mercedes valves before, but I used to do lots of Japanese cars years ago - can't be much different. JC Jones http://www.wagoneer.net 1979 Jeep J-10 "Max" 1984 Grand Wagoneer "Eeyore" 1978 MB 300D "Fritz" 1986 Jeep XJ Cherokee "Junior" * * * * * =================== "They that can give up * * * * =================== essential liberty to * * * * * =================== obtain a little ============================= temporary safety ============================= deserve neither ============================= liberty nor safety." ============================= -Benjamin Franklin - -> -----Original Message----- - -> From: Alec Cordova [mailto:acordova-at-austin.rr.com] - -> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 9:17 PM - -> To: jcjones-at-ifsja.org; diesel-benz-at-digest.net - -> Subject: RE: Running Questions [300D] - -> - -> - -> I would put a valve adjustment on the short list. Supposed - -> to be done every 15,000 miles. Fairly easy. Parts cost is a - -> cheap valve cover gasket. They sell special bent wrenches, - -> but I did my 85 turbo 300D with just a - -> (friend's) decent collection of SnapOns and a cheap feeler gauge. - -> - -> Big altitude changes always present a challenge to a motor. - -> I'm not sure what an older non-turbo uses to compensate for - -> the thinner air. You might spend some quality time under the - -> hood checking all vacuum lines for leaks and/or clogs. Pay - -> particular attention to any tubes that look like they - -> connect to anything near the fuel injection pump. That's - -> what would have to be informed about air pressure changes. - -> This stuff can get pricy if you pay someone else to do it, - -> since it's kind of slow work. Good place to save money if - -> you have the patience and persistence to do it yourself. - -> - -> I'm leaning towards the valve adjustment, though. They could - -> cause the noise, the smoke, the loss of power, and the hard - -> starting. And while you (or someone else) are in there, - -> check the timing chain for stretch. Doesn't add much time if - -> the valve cover is off anyway. - -> - -> Good luck, - -> Alec Cordova - -> Taylor, Texas - -> 95 C280 89 300CE no current diesels :-( - -> - -> -----Original Message----- - -> From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net - -> [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On - -> Behalf Of JC Jones - -> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 9:33 PM - -> To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net - -> Subject: Running Questions [300D] - -> - -> Sorry for the length of this post, I want you guys to have - -> enough information to give good advice. - -> - -> Here's a question for all you Mercedes Diesel experts out - -> there. The car is a 78 300D, I have had it almost 2 weeks. - -> When I first got it, it did not really smoke at all once it - -> warmed up (it smoked a little bit when it was still cold). - -> Yesterday I took it up in the mountains, approximately 60 - -> miles with 6% grades from 5000 feet to around 12000 feet, - -> then back down to around 9000 feet. It ran pretty good on - -> the way up there, but it seemed to have a little less power - -> when I got where I was going (about 9000 feet altitude). I - -> shut it off and it sat for about 7 hours, then when I went - -> to start it, it was very difficult to start (it was still - -> about 55 degrees out). I had to crank it for nearly 3 - -> minutes to get it started, and the first 2 minutes it did - -> not even fire at all, just cranked, then for about the last - -> 1 minute it very slowly started to caugh a bit and finally - -> started. On the way back I noticed that it had a slight - -> clatter at certain RPM's (around idle, then again just at - -> the top of the power curve). Still did not smoke at idle, - -> but right at the top of the power curve in each gear it had - -> a bit of clatter and belched out quite a bit of smoke. Now, - -> today I have noticed that it's much more difficult to start, - -> smokes a lot more when it's cold and has just the slightest - -> trace of smoke when it's idling after it's warm (slight - -> clatter at idle too). Also, it starts smoking a lot just - -> before it reaches the top of the power curve in each gear - -> (slight to moderate clatter at this RPM too), then as soon - -> as the power curve flattens out it stops smoking and the - -> clatter goes away. - -> - -> I don't think it's a major mechanical problem because during - -> most of the RPM range it does not smoke and sounds normal, - -> it's just at idle and just before the top of the power curve - -> that is smokes and clatters. - -> - -> Thanks in advance for any advice or help. - -> - -> JC Jones http://www.wagoneer.net - -> 1979 Jeep J-10 "Max" 1984 Grand Wagoneer "Eeyore" - -> 1978 MB 300D "Fritz" 1986 Jeep XJ Cherokee "Junior" - -> * * * * * =================== "They that can give up - -> * * * * =================== essential liberty to - -> * * * * * =================== obtain a little - -> ============================= temporary safety - -> ============================= deserve neither - -> ============================= liberty nor safety." - -> ============================= -Benjamin Franklin - -> ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 00:07:17 -0500 From: richard Subject: timing chain can you cut the old one and roll in the new one and brad in a master link??? richard, 300-sd ------------------------------ Date: 19 Sep 2001 23:29:00 -0700 From: "Mark Fountain" Subject: Rear Brakes As long as we were on the subject of brakes, I thot I'd mention that just overhauled my rear brakes on my 82 300D last month. For safety's sake, please be sure to check the rear brake hoses as mine were all cracked and just about worn out. They're not that expensive, especially if you get them from Rusty. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 03:56:56 -0500 From: Jon Filina Subject: Re: Rear Brakes Mark added the following brake tip: > As long as we were on the subject of brakes, I thot I'd mention that > just overhauled my rear brakes on my 82 300D last month. For safety's > sake, please be sure to check the rear brake hoses as mine were all > cracked and just about worn out. They're not that expensive, especially > if you get them from Rusty. The rubber brake hoses have a nasty habit of swelling up on the inside when they fail. When you look at the hoses, they'll look fine. The end result is that when you press the brake pedal, the pressure on the system is not reduced when you remove your foot. The caliper thinks the brake pedal is depressed when it really isn't. My mechanic replaced my right rear about two years ago. When he did it, I mentioned that I'd like to have all four hoses replaced. He's of the school of thought that "If it ain't broken, don't fix it". Two years later the only brake hose that has failed was the one he replaced at the time..... that one is fine and the others haven't gone bad. When the rubber brake hose goes south, the caliper will hang up causing the brake fluid to heat up causing the brake light on the dash to come on and the pedal to go to the floor. Pumping the pedal will eventually bring the brakes back to life. Once you replace the offending hose, all will be ok. Replacing the other three hoses, if you feel so inclined, will eliminate having to do them in the future and will allow you to enter the "anal retentive" club. I have only had to replace one rubber brake hose on "Mathilde". When the next one goes, I'll know it. When it does, it's history! Until then, I'll keep on driving. "It ain't broken, so why fix it??" Also, FYI, the right rear hose that went south really chewed up the rotor. My mechanic, who doesn't stock a lot of parts, didn't have a new rotor in stock. He suggested I put new pads on it and replace the rotor the next time... Two years later, the car still stops like it should. The rotor is scored deeply, but the pads have apapted to the wear and the car feels like it should. So much for the AR crowd.... Watch out for those rubber brake lines, but don't go overboard... Jon '81 240D "Mathilde" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 10:27:04 -0600 From: "HAALAND,SCOTT (A-Roseville,ex1)" Subject: RE: valve adj... So, what is the procedure for adjusting the valves? I've never attempted to adjust any valves on any car, but I think the Silver Hornet is due, since I got her at 199K miles and now she has 215K, and I know it hasn't been done since I've had her. The more details, the better! Thanks, Scott 80 300SD - Silver Hornet 69 Chevy Pickup 83 VW Vanagon w/ 2000 Jetta engine 87 Acura Legend Hey, do I have more cars than John Meister right now? What's going on with the universe? - -----Original Message----- From: John Heflin [mailto:greenmercedes240d-at-hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 6:48 PM To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Subject: RE: valve adj... lol, oh yes, still the same pop the pin calipers, easy to do! I replaced my back brakes a few years ago and they still have lots of pad left on them, I did notice the other day the inner pad on the right rear side is frozen, guess I'll just have to wait for another day... john, can you tell us the process for testing the injectors again? I am wondering if all mine are still peachy-keen... John 78 240 69 4.5 >From: "Alec Cordova" >Reply-To: >To: >Subject: RE: valve adj... >Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 20:34:57 -0500 > >I've had MB calipers lock up, and having them professionally rebuilt was >not >very successful. Sorry. At least double check that parts didn't get bunged >up and misaligned. That's your possible cheap fix. > >Also check your back brakes. They have probably only been changed once, if >ever, and my experience has been that you get a nasty, mushy pedal from >worn >rears. > >Is changing the pads on a 78 as wonderfully simple as it was on my 80 240 >and 85 300? Just a couple of pins to knock out, then everything comes out >without unscrewing anything. > > >Alec > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-diesel-benz-at-digest.net] On >Behalf Of John Heflin >Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 7:53 PM >To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net >Subject: RE: valve adj... > >thanks Alec, > >I'll check the timing chain while im in there then. It has been a little >rough starting lately, having to keep the key on until the engine revs up >enough to stay running. also now yesterday and today i have really been >able to smell my brakes, I put new pads up front 2 weeks ago and yesterday >the pedal wenalmost to the floor to stop and the brakes squealed loudly >(only was going about 15mph stopping in front of my house) they also did >the >same the first day I put them in, but i figured they needed to wear in a >little. Yesterday there was smoke coming out from behind my left front >wheel, somethings not right and I don't have any free time to check it out! >When's the next nat'l holiday?! > >John > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 13:43:25 EDT From: FDavid1063-at-aol.com Subject: Mechanic in San Diego? Does anyone know a good (and honest!) MB mechanic in the San Diego area? Dave 83 300D Turbo Diesel 135 or so k ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 19:31:23 -0400 From: Michael Frank Subject: The Slug is Home I was able to retrieve my car today....the Port Authority called me to let me know I could do it. I had to check in with the police command post, and I had an escort in and out of the "zone". The area is well and truly ruined. There's "stuff", for lack of a better word, three inches deep over everything. The streets are crammed with generator vans, as Con Ed can't power the whole area yet. The garage survived intact, although many windows were broken. I was shocked that even the cars that were inside were covered with a thick layer of debris. The roof, where my car was parked, looked positively lunar. It was pouring rain today, all the stuff had turned into a thick soupy morass. It had the consistency of paper mache, which is not a surprise, since it seems to be mostly gypsum and paper. Much of the paper is the stuff you expect to find in offices, but there isn't a whole sheet in all the acres of mud. It's torn and shredded and burned, little confetti flecks in a sea of grey mud. Front loaders moved about digging up the muck. My car had many pounds of this stuff covering it. I scraped some off the windshield, and got out of there pronto. I was gratified when the engine fired up with one glow cycle, I couldn't have stayed on that roof for one more minute. There was no opportunity to wash the car, there's no water or electricity in the building. One committed to the street, I had to follow my guide out, without pausing. I came within a block of the pile, it's just shattering to see it from so close. I was led to the FDR, and there was no stopping until I was out of Manhattan, every exit was blocked as far up as 96th Street. I wasn't too concerned about clogging the filters or hurting the motor, the rain was just pouring down so there was little dust in the air. I finally stopped at a car wash in the Bronx. At first, they were surprised to see a customer, but when they looked at the car, they understood. I had the place to myself, so I gave them forty bucks, and told them to do their best. Half an hour later, the worst was down the drain. But there are serious stains all over the car. I think it's the glue or binder that holds gypsum board together. Whatever it is, it's stuck fast to the paint in big blotchy masses. I tried everything on the shelf: green stuff, orange stuff, purple stuff, and nothing works. The best solution seems to be to flood the surface with water, and then rub it down with compound. It's a slow go, and I'm concerned about rubbing off the paint. Does anyone have any ideas? Here's a photo of where I was: http://www.westnet.com/~mfrank/wtcattack2.jpg I would ask you all to think about how fortunate we are to have what we have. It would seem that I've personally escaped unscathed, but just by blocks. There are many who were not so lucky. Mike Frank 1979 300CD New York ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #650 *********************************