From: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net (diesel-benz-digest) To: diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Subject: diesel-benz-digest V1 #677 Reply-To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Sender: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Errors-To: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Precedence: bulk diesel-benz-digest Monday, December 3 2001 Volume 01 : Number 677 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: More charging problems with the 240D Re: More charging problems with the 240D administrivia: if you miss email, bellsouth.net outage, etc. 270 and 320 CDI Re: 270 and 320 CDI Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 15:00:58 -0600 From: Jim & Barb Hoffman Subject: Re: More charging problems with the 240D Thanks for the idea John... But I just came in from the car and it isn't even getting to the starter (higher voltage out of the alternator that is). I measured the voltage at the battery with the car running and it almost always 12.3vdc. Then I crawled under the car and measured at the point where the wires come together at the starter solenoid. Only 12.3vdc there too. Now that's only 8 inches from the alternator with nothing but wire in-between. The alternator must not be putting out the 14+vdc that it should be right? I wish I could measure right off the alternator but with the plug harness disconnected it's too hard to get in there with the engine running and I don't know the correct pin out anyway. There may be a marginal problem with the solenoid but I don't think that is the problem in this case. What do you guys think?? Jim/ '83 240D John Heflin wrote: > hey Jim, back on thanksgiving my 240 made me an hour late, by being stuck at > a gas station with a dead battery (and they didnt have a jump box or > cables!!). turns out the alternator belt (i only have the single belt > design, they had double in later years) had worked its way loose and was > slipping enough to not keep the battery charged up all the way. > > as for your starting problems. starter solenoid. the click gave it away, > mine had the same problem so I took it apart and sanded it with emory paper > and voila works like new again. a temporary fix is to carry a hammer or > better yet, a 2-3 foot section of pipe, or some similar object and when it > wont start, just knock the starter/solenoid with it and bingo, should start > right up. > > John > 69 280SE 4.5 > 78 240D > > >From: Jim & Barb Hoffman > >CC: diesel-benz-at-digest.net > >Subject: Re: More charging problems with the 240D > >Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 06:20:48 -0600 > > > >Thanks for the info Jon, > > > > I haven't gotten the shotgun out yet ;) > > > >Where in the heck are "6" grounds?!?! I found TWO. > >One from the battery to the fender well, and another from > >the frame to the bell housing on the driver's side. Can you > >give good directions for finding the other four?? > > > >I actually got the dash out a few months ago and never > >pushed it all the way back in. So I'm imagining that I > >will get to the headlight switch that way right? Or did > >you get at it from underneath? > > > >I'm also going to put the car up on ramps and check the > >contacts at the starter and make sure they are all clean > >and tight. I replaced the starter a year ago. Maybe I > >didn't tighten the bolts well enough? > > > >As I mentioned before, quite frequently I will turn the > >key to the glow position... wait for the glow light to > >go out and try to start the car. I just hear a "click" and > >nothing. Then re-glow and try to start and it will start > >right up. Maybe a problem in the key switch and not > >the solenoid? Could a bad key switch be causing my > >battery to not charge? > > > >Thanks for all the help guys! > > > >Jim/ > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 15:44:35 -0600 From: Jim & Barb Hoffman Subject: Re: More charging problems with the 240D Alright Jon! Thanks for all that "ground" info! ;) Unfortunately I had such a backlog in my inbox I didn't notice your e-mail before I sent out my update a few minutes ago. But I will add that I already had the under dash panels out so I poked my head up under there and there it was... A nice pretty round barrel with a million wires screwed on ;) All were tight and shiny ;) What those Germans were on when they designed this stuff had to be some pretty good stuff! But that is why I decided to try checking the voltages at the starter because those contacts just looked too good to be a problem. Now the entire switch could be bad but no wires loose or corroded. I'm still thinking it's the alternator. But that requires entire removal again! :( I'm looking at a '93 Passat TDI or late model Jetta TDI's! Screw this! Jim/ Almost headed for the heap '83 240D Jon Filina wrote: > Jim polished his suit of armor in preparation for battling the beast and wrote: > > > I haven't gotten the shotgun out yet ;) > > If ya shoot too soon, you'll find out you wasted ur ammo.. > > > Where in the heck are "6" grounds?!?! I found TWO. > > One from the battery to the fender well, and another from > > the frame to the bell housing on the driver's side. Can you > > give good directions for finding the other four?? > > I doubt this is really your problem, but just in case... If you look at the time this message is being sent, it's when I just got home from work. The last day of the month, for us air freight types, is usually a late one. Tonite was a bit later than normal. If your going to tackle this over the weekend, I thought I'd better answer your before I caught some z's... > > OK, number 3 is on the driver's side wheel well just behind the passenger's side headlight. Number 4 is behind the instrument cluster under the dash. I didn't mess with this one. I figured if that was bad I had more problems than the car was worth.... Numbers 5 & 6 are in the truck. They are both pretty flimsy and most likely not a cause of your problem. If you pull the plastic liner from the driver's side of the trunk, you'll see a few wires attached to a sheet metal screw near the antenna. The other one is just behind the tail light assembly on the passenger's side. The worst corrosion I could find on Mathilde looked like a milky white film. That was hardly enough to cause various electrical circuits to shut down but I cleaned them up with emory cloth to be safe. > > > I actually got the dash out a few months ago and never > > pushed it all the way back in. So I'm imagining that I > > will get to the headlight switch that way right? Or did > > you get at it from underneath? > > My mechanic is the one that pulled the headlight switch. My Haynes manual sheds no light on the subject, which is one of the reasons I don't like them, but it appears that you'll have to remove the underdash panel to get to it. I think there is a large nut holding it in place, like 17 mm or so. That piece of information may be completely bogus, but I think that's what Dennis mentioned to me. At any rate, checking the connections on the headlight switch appear to be a good idea due to the way MB designed the current flow. I think Dennis had pulled the instrument cluster when he removed the headlight switch, which may be the path you'd have to take. > > > As I mentioned before, quite frequently I will turn the > > key to the glow position... wait for the glow light to > > go out and try to start the car. I just hear a "click" and > > nothing. Then re-glow and try to start and it will start > > right up. Maybe a problem in the key switch and not > > the solenoid? Could a bad key switch be causing my > > battery to not charge? > > That is not the problem I had, but the solution may be the same. Does your key click crisply between the different positions? Mine didn't, but that wasn't the major problem. The way Bosch designed their alternators, a bad ignition switch can give indications of a bad charging system. > > That's it, I've hit rock bottom. I've got to get to bed. > > Good luck! > > Jon ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 11:42:17 -0500 (EST) From: Richard Welty Subject: administrivia: if you miss email, bellsouth.net outage, etc. an incident has occurred this morning which exemplifies a classic mistake at an ISP -- bellsouth has made a small change in their mail config, one which probably seemed like a good idea at the time, but which has effectively prevented bellsouth subscribers from receiving any digest.net mailing lists. once this happens, it's hard for me to notify the affected users. therefore, i'd like to let all of you (except the bell south users who probably won't see this) know that when you don't see digests for a while, please check the top level page at http://www.digest.net/ to see if you are a victim of a larger outage. i'm posting a note for bellsouth.net subscribers there, but have no way to get them to go look at it. sigh, richard - -- Richard Welty Averill Park Networking rwelty-at-averillpark.net Unix, Linux, IP Network Engineering, Security rwelty-at-krusty-motorsports.com 518-573-7592 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 21:37:57 -0500 From: Andreas Kreft Subject: 270 and 320 CDI hi! as i am new to this list this is my first question: in the next time i am going to buy a used e-class (w210) diesel, but i am not sure about the engine to choose. the two alternatives i am thinking about are the 270 CDI and 320 CDI motors. both of them have got their advantages but i am not sure because i didn't drive a 320 until now. and, do you have any experiences about reliability and economy of these two machines? thanks andreas ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 21:39:57 From: "Mike Mehringer" Subject: Re: 270 and 320 CDI Guten Tag Andreas!! I'm not sure if anyone on this list will be able to help you (I could be wrong though!). Most of us are from the USA and as we do get the W210 series in high numbers, the only diesel version I have seen of the W210 E-class is the E300 Turbo Diesel. If the "300" is correct it would mean it has a 3.0 Litre 6-cyl engine in it, and the engines you describe below do not appear to be 3.0 Litre engines. I could be wrong about all this, but I shouldn't be as long as Mercedes didn't create any nomenclature with the W210's like they did on very few other models. Bis spater.. Mike M. 1983 300SD W126 >From: Andreas Kreft >To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net >Subject: 270 and 320 CDI >Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 21:37:57 -0500 > >hi! > >as i am new to this list this is my first question: in the next >time i am going to buy a used e-class (w210) diesel, but i am >not sure about the engine to choose. the two alternatives i am >thinking about are the 270 CDI and 320 CDI motors. both of them >have got their advantages but i am not sure because i didn't >drive a 320 until now. and, do you have any experiences about >reliability and economy of these two machines? > >thanks >andreas > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #677 *********************************