From: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net (diesel-benz-digest) To: diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Subject: diesel-benz-digest V1 #932 Reply-To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Sender: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Errors-To: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Precedence: bulk diesel-benz-digest Tuesday, March 18 2003 Volume 01 : Number 932 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: 240D Serpentine Heater problem update Re: fsj: Alfa/Jeep/Volvo/Mercedes meanderings Re: 240D Re: 240D Re: fsj: Alfa/Jeep/Volvo/Mercedes meanderings washing to prevent rust Re: washing to prevent rust Re: washing to prevent rust Domestic vs. Import filters Re: Domestic vs. Import filters ebay vehicles... Re: Domestic vs. Import filters Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 15:27:31 US/Central From: acordova-at-texas.net Subject: Re: 240D If it's currently in decent shape, prepare to fall in love, even though the engineering is about 30 years old. Let us know your geographic location, and we may be able to suggest parts and repair sources. I personally really like Rusty Cullens out of Atlanta, www.buymbparts.com. Also let us know generally how much work you intend to perform yourself. We can provide BTDT advice as to when you should just pay someone else to do a particular job, but you may be surprised at just how many things can be repaired inexpensively rather than replacing a whole subsystem (specifically thinking about alternator and blower motor brushes). You will find that virtually all parts are readily available at good prices. The recommended repair manual is the factory one, even though it's now only available on CD with a less than perfect user interface. It runs about a hundred bucks either through 1-800-FOR-MERC or through our common parts sources like Rusty. You may also find old printed manuals or questionable-legality copies of the factory CD on eBay. Let your conscience be your guide on that. Change fluids and filters religiously. Synthetic oils are great. Chevron Delo 400 and Shell Rotella T are good conventional oils. Just be sure the oil is rated for diesel use. Adjust the valves every 15,000 miles. It's not too tough, and it gives you a chance to check timing chain stretch. Timing chain probably doesn't need to be replaced until it approaches 5 degrees of stretch. Replace all the fuses you can find, even if they look good. Might even use a little emery cloth on the connections and/or some dielectric grease when you put the new ones in. Maintain it according to factory recommendations, but drive it like you stole it. These cars are happiest when driven. That car doesn't have much power, but you should definitely use all the power you can get from her. It's trite but true. They just don't build them like that any more. Welcome aboard, Alec Cordova Taylor, Texas 89 300CE, 154K previous 80 240D auto ("Cream Puff") and 85 300D turbodiesel > Welcome Paul! > > Sounds like you got a beauty. The achilles' heal of my 240D has > been the fusebox! Damn fuses corrode over time and I just take > off the cover (under the hood) and spin all the fuses a few turns > and then all is well for a few months. So if something "stops > working" don't panic. Check the fuses first... THEN panic ;) > > Jim/ > > '83 240D > > > very cool... normal service and original parts... the > > very best waxes and lubricants you can think of. I'd recommend > > going to synthetics, but then again I'm biased on that topic. ;) > > > > john > > > > At 11:44 AM 3/17/2003 -0800, Paul Schwartz wrote: > > >OK, I just returned home with a 1980 240D. As this is my first MBZ > diesel, > > >is there anything I should do to make sure it stays running like it > does > > >now? (I bought this car from the original owner who picked it up new > in > > >Germany and he gave me all the service records for the life of the > car) > > >It's a standard tranny. > > >I really like this car!! > > >Paul > > >240D ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 18:30:39 -0500 From: Michael Frank Subject: Serpentine Has anyone replaced a serp belt on a 190D? I'm not sure how to loosen the tensioner. Mike Frank ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 15:46:58 -0800 From: Jack Tavares Subject: Heater problem update You might remember me mentioning that my girlfriend's 300D heater would blow hot air all the time, regardless of temp setting. Additionally her horn would work sometimes. AFter consulting with this list, I went out to look at it and it worked fine. Both the horn and the heater Well, one of the suggestions I got was to check out www.mercedessource.com On there I saw the "fuse update" kit, which replaces all the old style fuses, with nice new copper fuses. Decided to order one, along with a few other items. The day the stuff arrived, both the horn and the heater were broken again. (They always seem to either both work or both not work). Opened up the fuse box, blew out a LOT of "rust dust". Replaced all the fuses. Now both the horn and the heater are working fine. We will see if this keeps up or if they break again. Thanks for the pointers. - -- jack ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 19:01:29 -0500 From: Robert Chase Subject: Re: fsj: Alfa/Jeep/Volvo/Mercedes meanderings Hmmm, Saw a 300E sitting at the side of the road today for sale. $3000 and she had 433000 on the odometer. Looked rather good to for its age. 200k is nothing R. On Monday, March 17, 2003, at 01:51 PM, john wrote: > At 11:42 AM 3/17/2003 -0700, Tesar Landon-r16884 wrote: >> My GTV6 is not running, why is it that the cars we want to drive the >> most are those we drive the least?? >> - Landon > > yeah... I know what you mean... been waiting for over 2 years for > my J10 to be reengined... > > I bought this '85 190D to save on fuel... but so far I've dropped > about $700 in parts into it... ignition lock failed, then the > injector... :) > need to fix the seat and it'll be all ready... everything else appears > to be fine... of course it could use a front end alignment... and that > clunking could be a bad strut... more $. :( But that's what happens > when you buy a car that's been sitting for a year and has 200K on the > clock... but it'll be worth it at 33/44 mpg. :) > > john > ------------------------------------------------------------------ > http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ > Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... > jesus, don't leave life without him, please! > ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 19:05:02 -0500 From: Robert Chase Subject: Re: 240D Hmmm, A suggestion. Go to www.mercedessource.com and take a look at some of this guys books. His diesel performance tuning book is quite informative. If you have the original book and service records take a read through the maint booklet and familiarize yourself with the service schedule. Think of this as a new religion. Also scout out a "good" mechanic that specializes in the diesel benzes in your area. You probably wont need him anytime soon but its always good to have made contact and have had a few services performed before any major work commences. Good luck with the new car and welcome to the club :) Robert. On Monday, March 17, 2003, at 02:44 PM, Paul Schwartz wrote: > OK, I just returned home with a 1980 240D. As this is my first MBZ > diesel, > is there anything I should do to make sure it stays running like it does > now? (I bought this car from the original owner who picked it up new in > Germany and he gave me all the service records for the life of the car) > > It's a standard tranny. > > I really like this car!! > > Paul > 240D ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 19:05:56 -0500 From: Robert Chase Subject: Re: 240D I replaced all my OEM MB fuses with sealed glass ones. My electrical woes went away except for a short somewhere in my fog lamp circuit that I cant seem to track down.... R. On Monday, March 17, 2003, at 03:17 PM, Jim Hoffman wrote: > Welcome Paul! > > Sounds like you got a beauty. The achilles' heal of my 240D has > been the fusebox! Damn fuses corrode over time and I just take > off the cover (under the hood) and spin all the fuses a few turns > and then all is well for a few months. So if something "stops > working" don't panic. Check the fuses first... THEN panic ;) > > Jim/ > > '83 240D > >> very cool... normal service and original parts... the >> very best waxes and lubricants you can think of. I'd recommend >> going to synthetics, but then again I'm biased on that topic. ;) >> >> john >> >> At 11:44 AM 3/17/2003 -0800, Paul Schwartz wrote: >>> OK, I just returned home with a 1980 240D. As this is my first MBZ > diesel, >>> is there anything I should do to make sure it stays running like it > does >>> now? (I bought this car from the original owner who picked it up new > in >>> Germany and he gave me all the service records for the life of the > car) >>> It's a standard tranny. >>> I really like this car!! >>> Paul >>> 240D >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------ >> http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ >> Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... >> jesus, don't leave life without him, please! >> ------------------------------------------------------------------- >> > > -- > Jim Hoffman > Oconomowoc WI > '39 Allis Model B > '53 Ford Golden Jubilee > '?? Bolens Huskie Gardener ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 19:08:37 -0500 From: Robert Chase Subject: Re: fsj: Alfa/Jeep/Volvo/Mercedes meanderings Heh, I HATE my Accord. With its PATHETIC fuel economy of 25mpg i save lots of money hauling out the big iron (the Diesel S class). It will be officially for sale tomorrow. Going to take an ad out in the paper. Asking price of $19,700 R. On Monday, March 17, 2003, at 03:38 PM, Kevin Pekarek wrote: > On Mon, Mar 17, 2003 at 10:51:07AM -0800, john wrote: >> I bought this '85 190D to save on fuel... but so far I've dropped >> about $700 in parts into it... ignition lock failed, then the >> injector... :) >> need to fix the seat and it'll be all ready... everything else appears >> to be fine... of course it could use a front end alignment... and that >> clunking could be a bad strut... more $. :( But that's what happens >> when you buy a car that's been sitting for a year and has 200K on the >> clock... but it'll be worth it at 33/44 mpg. :) > > And this is a very valid point to not lose sight of. It takes a LOT of > miles > to pay for a car you bought to get better mileage. > > People tell me to sell the crown vic and buy a honda so I can get 35 > mpg in > some civic. Some quick math: > > Buy honda: 12000 > Sell CV: -1500 > > Honda would end up costing just over ten grand. Add in the fuel savings: > For easy math, say I get 40 mpg in the civic. I get 21.5 in the crown > vic. > So every two tanks in the crown vic equals one crown vic tank full of > gas > burned in the civic. I use roughly two 18 gallon tans in the crown vic > a week > driving to work, so that would be one eighteen gallon tank in the civic > per > week. 18 gallons at $2.25 a gallon (yup, I live in the bay area) means > I save > $40 per week. $40 per week for 52 weeks is just under $2100. > > So I've just spent $10000 to save $2000. Sounds like a bargain to me. > THEN > I'm also stuck driving a honda. > > Sure, diesel benzes cost less (well the 123s do) than a twelve grand > honda > (or however much a honda costs), but like John points out, he's had to > plunk > down extra cash up front to make it a useable car. Sure, diesel is a > little > cheaper than gas (1.95 a gallon here) but even still, you're lucky if > you come > out even. Please don't give me the biodiesel argument either :) > > Buy a car because you like the car. If you try to buy another car as a > way > of saving money in the short term, you're gonna be quite disappointed > when > you add up the "savings". > > K > > -- > Kevin Pekarek > Redwood City, CA (near San Francisco) and > Los Osos, CA (near San Luis Obispo) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 16:29:58 -0800 (PST) From: Anaeis N Subject: washing to prevent rust Wondering about the best way to wash my new (to me) '82 300CD to keep it rust-free. Snow season seems finally to be over, and I need to know how to get all the salty residue off without damaging anything. Are those Amoco car washes with the undercoatings any good, or do they just cause more problems? (I'm a little suspicious.) Please include any techniques and tools (shammies, etc.) you use for washing and protecting your Benz. Thanks! Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 16:47:18 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: washing to prevent rust After growing up in the Chicago area and doing everything humanly possible to preserve my '68 Mustang... I tried hosing it off right away, car washes, undercoating, rustproofing... the only solution I've found that works is this... mind you, it's a bit radical... but it's been working so far for me for the last 20 years... move to the Pacific NorthWest... ;) john At 04:29 PM 3/17/2003 -0800, Anaeis N wrote: >Wondering about the best way to wash my new (to me) '82 300CD to keep it >rust-free. Snow season seems finally to be over, and I need to know how to >get all the salty residue off without damaging anything. Are those Amoco >car washes with the undercoatings any good, or do they just cause more >problems? (I'm a little suspicious.) Please include any techniques and >tools (shammies, etc.) you use for washing and protecting your Benz. > >Thanks! >Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop! - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 19:52:15 -0500 From: Michael Frank Subject: Re: washing to prevent rust At the end of every season, I use a garden hose at high pressure, and blast all the mud and salt from inside the fenderwells. I'll use a nylon brush anyplace that doesn't clean up with just water. Specifically with the benz, I'll try to blast as much dirt as possible from around the spare tire well. It's much more important to get these underbody areas, the places you can see can be cleaned by driving through any carwash. Same routine for all my cars, Benz or otherwise. Mike Frank I At 07:29 PM 3/17/03, Anaeis N wrote: >Wondering about the best way to wash my new (to me) '82 300CD to keep it >rust-free. Snow season seems finally to be over, and I need to know how to >get all the salty residue off without damaging anything. Are those Amoco >car washes with the undercoatings any good, or do they just cause more >problems? (I'm a little suspicious.) Please include any techniques and >tools (shammies, etc.) you use for washing and protecting your Benz. > >Thanks! >Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 19:58:11 -0800 From: "Paul Schwartz" Subject: Domestic vs. Import filters Are there preferences in oil, fuel and air filters concerning domestic products vs. German made items? Or, are they pretty much all the same as long as you choose a reasonable brand (Fram, Purolator et.al) Paul ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 20:05:53 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: Domestic vs. Import filters filters can be an almost religious topic... ;) there was a site posted on one of the lists that analyzed a variety of filters... fram came out very poorly... I know that Hastings, AMSOIL and Wix seem to have a pretty good reputation... of course if you go to the Mercedes dealer you'll be fine too. NAPA is a reasonable bet for quality stuff too, but as parts stores "evolve" the quality decreases... john At 07:58 PM 3/17/2003 -0800, Paul Schwartz wrote: >Are there preferences in oil, fuel and air filters concerning domestic >products vs. German made items? Or, are they pretty much all the same as >long as you choose a reasonable brand (Fram, Purolator et.al) > >Paul - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 23:05:23 -0800 From: john Subject: ebay vehicles... I just listed some of my neighbors stuff on ebay: a 1964 Cadillac, a one owner 1988 Chevy conversion van with 19k miles, and a one owner 24.5' Ron Rawson commercial fiberglass hull boat with less then 100 hours on a Volvo-Penta Diesel. My neighbor has some really cool stuff next door on the farm. :) If his stuff doesn't sell the first time around I'll head over with the pressure washer and clean things up a bit... The Cadillac is really nice... guess my motto that "Jeeps don't rust they mold in Snohomish" extends to other vehicles as well... http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=dieseljohn&rd=1 FSJ/wagoneers.com stickers: http://members.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aboutme/dieseljohn/ john - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 23:57:45 -0800 From: "Derickam AA" Subject: Re: Domestic vs. Import filters If it is not OEM I do not put it in my cars. Just my opinion, my parts guy hooks me up. Can only remember one of the brands right now, "Mann". I can remember the box colors of the other one (orange, white and black), do I get any points for that. ;) Derick Amburgey Automated Control Specialist Port Of Seattle/SeaTac Airport/Satellite Train System Amateur Radio Callsign: K7DXX List "Mom" of Diesel-Benz reflector 1985 Mercedes 190D "Tuti" 280,000 Mi 1985 Mercedes 190D "Red" 175,000 Mi 1984 Mercedes 190D "Charity" 160,000 Mi - ----Original Message Follows---- From: john To: "Paul Schwartz" , Subject: Re: Domestic vs. Import filters Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 20:05:53 -0800 filters can be an almost religious topic... ;) there was a site posted on one of the lists that analyzed a variety of filters... fram came out very poorly... I know that Hastings, AMSOIL and Wix seem to have a pretty good reputation... of course if you go to the Mercedes dealer you'll be fine too. NAPA is a reasonable bet for quality stuff too, but as parts stores "evolve" the quality decreases... john At 07:58 PM 3/17/2003 -0800, Paul Schwartz wrote: >Are there preferences in oil, fuel and air filters concerning domestic >products vs. German made items? Or, are they pretty much all the same as >long as you choose a reasonable brand (Fram, Purolator et.al) > >Paul - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #932 *********************************