From: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net (diesel-benz-digest) To: diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Subject: diesel-benz-digest V1 #933 Reply-To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Sender: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Errors-To: owner-diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Precedence: bulk diesel-benz-digest Tuesday, March 18 2003 Volume 01 : Number 933 Forum for Discussion of Diesel Mercedes Benz Automobiles Derick Amburgey Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: 240D RE: Alternator woes - End of Story Re: 240D Re: 240D Re: Domestic vs. Import filters Re: 240D Re: 240D RE: washing to prevent rust Re: 240D Re: 240D $300.00 300 D and the $200 VW diesel Re: 240D Diesel Benz Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/diesel-benz/ Send submissions to diesel-benz-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to diesel-benz-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to stag-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 04:04:02 -0600 From: Jon Filina Subject: Re: 240D Paul wrote: >OK, I just returned home with a 1980 240D. As this is my first MBZ diesel, >is there anything I should do to make sure it stays running like it does >now? (I bought this car from the original owner who picked it up new in >Germany and he gave me all the service records for the life of the car) > >It's a standard tranny. > >I really like this car! > Forget what everybody is telling you. You'll hate it! Give it to me and you'll be happy.... ;-) Actually, if you've owned underpowered diesels, such as VW has been known to offer, you'll be happy with the available power, if I can use that word in the same sentence as "240D". It's a great car-simple, basic and classy. Find yourself an independent mechanic you can trust, do most of the work yourself and you'll be very happy. I'd still be driving my '81 240D, manual transmission, if some ditz in an SUV hadn't plowed into it doing over 100 mph. My 300SD is much quieter and has way more power than I deserve, but I'd still be happier with that 240D. Congrats and welcome to the slow lane. Isn't that transmission the smoothest operating manual you've ever driven? My '81 made all the manuals I've owned seem positively clunky in comparison. Jon '84 300SD "Bruno" Have you named your 240D yet?? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 09:19:03 -0500 From: "Aimino, Michael" Subject: RE: Alternator woes - End of Story Got all the parts I ordered and re-reinstalled the alternator last night. Also replaced a leaking transmission cooler line (steel line from tranny side). At some point, a PO had a new cooler line put in, but the installer neglected to put the bushings in too, so the line rubbed against the clamps and wore a hole thru at the bracket attached to the oil pan. Installed the new battery and fired her up - ran fine, no leaks, battery charging. This Saturday, I'm putting on the right tie rod assembly - both tie rod ends are shot. Wife's car is getting an inside front wheel bearing seal, R&R the blower motor, find a vacuum leak that's keeping the motor from shutting down, and then the Benzes will be done (for now). Alas, my work is never-ending. Over the weekend, the tranny went out on the '89 Ford diesel van. Had to be towed home at 4 in the morning. Will drop that out (for the 5th time) and see what happened there. - -----Original Message----- From: Michael Aimino [mailto:maimino-at-alltel.net] Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2003 9:39 PM To: diesel-benz-at-digest.net Subject: RE: Alternator woes continued - I Got an answer Hi. Thanks for the tip. I just went down and checked those wires out, and thankfully they were fine. I saw that box there while wrestling with the alternator and never made the connection (da dum da). :) A friend of mine suggested I check the "fusible links." I never heard of 'em. Do the older Benzes use fusible links? On 12 Mar 03, at 17:36, Black, Waylon wrote: > All, > > I had a similar problem. Long story short: > > If we are talking about a 126 chassis 300 SD - here is what happened > to me. > > The alternator wires run from the alternator(duh!) to a little black > box on the passenger frame rail. These little wires run through a > plastic sheath. This sheath tends to get very stiff in cool weather. > With less than perfect motor mounts the engine rocks back and forth - > this tends to open the connectors. You'll get a charge light under > acceleration but charging when coasting or charging when making right > turns only. It drove me crazy(short trip) until I carefully took the 3 > terminals out of the connector, squeezed them back together, > re-installed in the connector. Lasts about 2-3 months. Problem does > not occur in warm weather when the sheath is a little more flexible. > It also explains the wire retainer I have seen on some MB alternators > but not on the rebuilds(to help hold the connector?) > > The other thing I had is a wire came off the brushes for the > regulator(rebuilt - came with the autozone alternator). I had a spare > and just replaced it. > > > Waylon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Aimino, Michael [mailto:maimino-at-freemarkets.com] > Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2003 9:28 AM > To: Jon Filina > Cc: diesel-benz-at-digest.net > Subject: RE: Alternator woes continued > > Hi Jon. Thanks for the tips. I had the alternator rechecked last night > - it's fine. I pulled the battery today and will have it checked. If > that's not it, I'll start with the grounds, light switch, et al. > Thanks!!! > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jon Filina [mailto:jfilina-at-surfbest.net] > Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 4:14 PM > To: Aimino, Michael > Subject: Re: Alternator woes continued > > > Mike, looking for his shotgun, wrote: > > >I had the alternator rebuilt for my 300SD. I put it in and I'm > >showing 12 volts at the battery - should be 14.6v. Everything is > >hooked up, but no juice. > > > >The rebuild man assures me it was working when it left his shop. > >Assuming > that > >the alternator is OK, what could the problem be? The rebuild man says > >to > check > >at the plug for voltage when it's off, and at a different spot on the > >plug > for > >voltage when the key is turned on. Any idea what to do if one of > >those conditions aren't met, i.e., no voltage at the plug? Is there a > >fuse > somewhere > >in the circuit. > > > > This is starting to sound awfully familiar... > > I went through the electrical gremlin maze with my '81 240D a few > years ago. The problem started with the battery light coming on > while driving. Replacing the alternator fixed that for about a month. > Then, periodically, all the idiot lights would illuminate and various > circuits would go dead-marker lights sometimes, other times windshield > wipers, other times no heater/blower fan. > > Here's what we did: > > 1. Clean all grounds. The ones I did were the battery, main strap > from the transmission to the frame, one located by the passenger side > headlight and two in the trunk. > > 2. Replaced the battery. There was a dead cell. It held a charge, > but not for long. > > 3. Replaced the ignition lock. The lock portion was on it's last > legs. > The electrical looked to be ok, but was replaced anyway. > > All of the above would return the car to working order for about 200 > miles. Then the problem returned. > > What fixed it? My mechanic pulled the headlight switch. The power > for the W123's, and probably most of the older MB's, goes through the > light switch. I never had problems with the headlights, so we never > suspected it. He removed the red hot lines, cleaned them, applied > some dielectric grease and tightened them down. The were slightly > loose when he first pulled the switch. The problem went away. > > Do you have any of the symptoms I describe? All of the above are > cheap to do yourself. The battery was around $100. The one in my > 240D was the wrong size, which didn't help. The ignition lock was > expensive, and probably wasn't part of the problem. > > Check your battery and main grounds. Pull 'em, clean 'em and cinch > 'em down. Take the battery in an do a load test. It should be a type > 49, I think (It fills up the battery tray). If it's marginal, replace > it. > For grins, you could check the light switch. > > I don't remember seeing any fuses that would contribute to the > problem, but I did replace all of them during that period, also. > > On the plus side, you are driving a diesel. You don't need no > stinking charging system. I work nights. During my 3 month ordeal, > the battery was on the charger almost nightly. > > That's my 2 cents... > > Jon > '84 300SD ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 09:39:25 -0500 From: "Jim Hoffman" Subject: Re: 240D OK... about these glass Buss fuses to replace the old ceramics... I stopped by my local NAPA store and they have *plastic* replacements but no glass ones. Where did you find these?? Jim/ '83 240D ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 09:32:37 US/Central From: acordova-at-texas.net Subject: Re: 240D > Forget what everybody is telling you. You'll hate it! Give it to me > and you'll be happy.... ;-) > > Jon > '84 300SD "Bruno" Have you named your 240D yet?? Jon is a wise and cunning man, and he makes me laugh. Alec ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 09:46:34 US/Central From: acordova-at-texas.net Subject: Re: Domestic vs. Import filters > Are there preferences in oil, fuel and air filters concerning domestic > products vs. German made items? Or, are they pretty much all the same as > long as you choose a reasonable brand (Fram, Purolator et.al) > > Paul > I go along with the others. I NEVER use McParts filters. Mann, Hecht, of one other German brand, especially in oil filters, always have the correct internal configuration as far as backflow valves, etc. Buy em from Rusty for a good price (although his normally slow web site is not responding for me at all this morning, so I can't say exactly what price). I usually buy a few at a time and keep them in the trunk. Even if you use a fast lube shop, they will use your filter and give you a buck or two credit. On another note, even the local oil change shop I've been patronizing for many years has joined the crowd and is afraid/refusing to work on MB. But I think I finally got my oil leak fixed with a front timing cover reseal, and the marine shop just left me a message last night that my TopSider is now in stock. My baby's going to synthetic, fed personally by me. Maybe she'll feel loved enough that the transmission leak will go away. Just checked the Benz Bin, which uses the same parts interface as Rusty, although Rusty is cheaper. They show for an 84 300SD (I'm guessing that's similar to yours since you're on the diesel list) Mann, Hengst, and Bosch oil filter kits (include new O-ring and new washer for the drain plug) for 7.63, 9.68, and 7.25, respectively. Air filters, same 3 brands, Federal (non- Kalifornia) versions, run 11 to 19 bucks. Take 10 per cent or so off to get Rusty's prices. Filters are like coolant on MB cars. It costs very little extra to get the "right" one. Save money by choosing suppliers wisely, not by skimping on quality. Regards, Alec Cordova Taylor, Texas 89 300CE, 154K, only things not OEM are the Sony sound and the Kumho tires ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 08:32:46 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: 240D At 04:04 AM 3/18/2003 -0600, Jon Filina wrote: >Congrats and welcome to the slow lane. Isn't that transmission the >smoothest operating manual you've ever driven? My '81 made all the >manuals I've owned seem positively clunky in comparison. >Jon >'84 300SD "Bruno" Have you named your 240D yet?? the best transmission I've ever had was my '71 BMW 2500... smooth as glass.... floor mounted 4 speed... had it over in Germany... I've yet to shift another one that was as smooth... even a few MBs... john - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 08:34:41 -0800 From: john Subject: Re: 240D I saw some at the local schmucks... At 09:39 AM 3/18/2003 -0500, Jim Hoffman wrote: >OK... about these glass Buss fuses to replace the old ceramics... >I stopped by my local NAPA store and they have *plastic* replacements >but no glass ones. Where did you find these?? > >Jim/ > >'83 240D - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 10:41:26 -0600 From: "Black, Waylon" Subject: RE: washing to prevent rust I was told that the water, from the car washes, does not drain into the sewage system. Due to the chemicals, it is kept(and re-used) in storage tanks until it is too dirty, then is hauled off for disposal. So that means you are using high pressure salt water to wash the salt of your car. Hmmmm. My cars are filthy - we very rarely salt, in Texas. We got a freak snow storm and salt was laid down so I have not been to the car wash. I will probable just hand wash it for a while(it's raining today). Waylon -----Original Message----- From: Michael Frank [mailto:mfrank-at-westnet.com] Sent: Monday, March 17, 2003 6:52 PM To: Anaeis N; diesel-benz-at-digest.net Subject: Re: washing to prevent rust At the end of every season, I use a garden hose at high pressure, and blast all the mud and salt from inside the fenderwells. I'll use a nylon brush anyplace that doesn't clean up with just water. Specifically with the benz, I'll try to blast as much dirt as possible from around the spare tire well. It's much more important to get these underbody areas, the places you can see can be cleaned by driving through any carwash. Same routine for all my cars, Benz or otherwise. Mike Frank I At 07:29 PM 3/17/03, Anaeis N wrote: >Wondering about the best way to wash my new (to me) '82 300CD to keep it >rust-free. Snow season seems finally to be over, and I need to know how to >get all the salty residue off without damaging anything. Are those Amoco >car washes with the undercoatings any good, or do they just cause more >problems? (I'm a little suspicious.) Please include any techniques and >tools (shammies, etc.) you use for washing and protecting your Benz. > >Thanks! >Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 11:27:52 -0500 From: "Jim Hoffman" Subject: Re: 240D Hmmmm.... We don't have a "Schmucks" store near here... Any others??? ;) Jim/ '83 240D > I saw some at the local schmucks... > > At 09:39 AM 3/18/2003 -0500, Jim Hoffman wrote: > >OK... about these glass Buss fuses to replace the old ceramics... > >I stopped by my local NAPA store and they have *plastic* replacements > >but no glass ones. Where did you find these?? > > > >Jim/ > > > >'83 240D > > ------------------------------------------------------------------ > http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ > Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... > jesus, don't leave life without him, please! > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > - -- Jim Hoffman Oconomowoc WI '39 Allis Model B '53 Ford Golden Jubilee '?? Bolens Huskie Gardener ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 11:39:15 -0500 From: "Jim Hoffman" Subject: Re: 240D OK Robert... Can *you* remember where you got yours? John got his at some local "Schmuck" store but I can't find any of them around here. ;) Speaking of fog lamps.... I couldn't get mine to work so I took one of them out and found that the PO had trashed the connector and just snipped the wires! More work. Fortunately the weather is getting nicer ;) Jim/ '83 240D > I replaced all my OEM MB fuses with sealed glass ones. My electrical > woes went away except for a short somewhere in my fog lamp circuit that > I cant seem to track down.... > > R. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 12:45:51 -0600 From: "Black, Waylon" Subject: $300.00 300 D and the $200 VW diesel Went and got a better look at the $300.00 300 D(everything is green - except the tires). Started poking around, went to look at the year/model. I opened the door - no ID tags. Looked for the VIN - gone. It was that way when they got it. Looked under the hood - I saw a '78' on the front of the block. Could that be the year? It looks like a 78 model. The only tag I found had the 123/300 D on it. The car had over 300K miles and some rust and some parts had disappeared (A/C, turn signals). I checked with the tag office - the missing VIN is not a problem if there is a title(there is). The wiring harness looks a little cut up. I passed on it and for $200.00, took the 81 VW diesel truck(with topper) LX model, instead(230K miles). Drug it home, opened the hood. Had to do a little poking around(I did not have any VW diesel experience), I cleaned out the interior, worked my way to the back - hey, a service manual, some glow plugs, and brake parts. Looked at the book a little, realized that the fuel/water/filter thingy is gone, there is no water in the reservoir(the jugs of water inside was the first clue), and wiring looks a little toasted/hacked - not looking good. I installed a fuel filter and some fuel lines, put in a battery, gave it a crank. It turns easily - like no compression then a sputter, couple of coughs, and........IT'S ALIVE! I turn it off - remember, no water in the overflow. I get my jugs full(didn't want to hydraulic the motor by filling it up if it had a bad headgasket), start it again and pour in the water. I look underneath - water coming out, fast. I shut the thing off - look underneath, the lower hose has been taken off???? I put the hose back on, start it, start pouring the water in. Get it full of water(the oil was full). It seems normal. I ended up driving the thing about 20 miles, in all. You know, you go around the block, first(staying close, in case you have to walk LOL). Then a little farther, and farther. Satisfied that it might live awhile I shut it off. Tried to restart - nope, just a few sputters. Keep trying - it finally comes to life. This happened again later, seems that the fuel drains back to the tank without the correct filter/water separator(I just used a plain filter and lines) causing excessive cranking(anybody have one of these for a VW diesel?) I took it and filled it up - 9.50$ -at- 1.69 a gallon. It needs a muffler and some other odds and ends but think I found a great driver, for work. Waylon Dallas, Texas ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 13:52:46 -0500 From: Robert Chase Subject: Re: 240D Yes, Walmart and Napa auto parts carry them. They are Buss fuses. Glass and sealed and work great... No corrosion.... If your a stickler for oem stuff check out www.mercedesource.com he has a kit of new ceramic ones with different metal..... R. On Tuesday, March 18, 2003, at 11:39 AM, Jim Hoffman wrote: > OK Robert... Can *you* remember where you got yours? John got his > at some local "Schmuck" store but I can't find any of them around > here. ;) > > Speaking of fog lamps.... I couldn't get mine to work so I took one > of them out and found that the PO had trashed the connector and just > snipped the wires! More work. Fortunately the weather is getting > nicer ;) > > Jim/ > > '83 240D > >> I replaced all my OEM MB fuses with sealed glass ones. My electrical >> woes went away except for a short somewhere in my fog lamp circuit > that >> I cant seem to track down.... >> >> R. ------------------------------ End of diesel-benz-digest V1 #933 *********************************